Glassy ; 

Book J 11 



HER MAJESTY QUEEN VICTORIA, 



THIS VOLUME 

IS 

BY SPECIAL PERMISSION GRATEFULLY DEDICATED 

BT 

THE AUTHOR. 



A BLENDING OF ALL BEAUTIES ; STREAMS AND DELLS, 
EBL71T. FOLIAGE, OSAG.WOOD, CORNFIELD, MOUNTAIN, "VINE 
AND CHIEFLESS CASTLES BREATBING STERN FAREWELLS 
FROM GRAY BUT LEAFY "WALLS, WHERE RUIN GREENLY DWELLS. 

CHILDE HAROLD 



X 



CONTENTS, 



Page 

Introduction. — Outline of the Rhine Tour - - - 1 

Interchapter — London to Antwerp - - - - 5 

The Good Genius of Antwerp - - - - - 7 

The Legend of the Blacksmith - - - - - -15 

Interchapter — Antwerp - - - - - -21 

The Railroad Trip — Brussels - - - - - -27 

Waterloo - - - - - - - -36 

Interchapter — Brussels - - - - - - 43 

Brussels to the Rhine, by Liege and Aix-la-Chapelle - - - - 51 

Liege - - - - - - - -54 

Interchapter — Liege - - - - - -G5 

The City of Charlemagne — The Legends of Aix-la-Chapelle - - - 69 

Interchapter — Aix-la-Chapelle - - - - - - 77 

The Trip to Cologne — The Banks of the Rhine - - - - 83 

The Wines of the Rhine - - - - - - 89 

The Legends of Cologne — The Carnival - - - - - 97 

Interchapter — Cologne - - - - - - 113 

The Robbers of the Rhine - - - - - -117 

Map of the Rhine - - - - - - - 123 

Bonn and its Neighbourhood - - - - - - 132 

Interchapter — Bonn - - - - - - -137 

Bonn to Coblentz - 141 

Interchapter — Coblentz - - - - - -151 

Coblentz to Mayence - - - - - - -153 

The Brothers - - - - - - - -154 

Heidelburg - - - - - - - 170 

Interchapters — Mayence - - - - - -171 

Mannheim - - - - - - 173 

Wiesbaden - - - - - -174 



Appendix : — 

1. Descriptive Catalogue of the Works of Art in the Museum at Antwerp - 177 

2. Descriptive Catalogue of the Pictures in the Museum at Brussels - 197 



INTRODUCTION. OUTLINE OF THE RHINE TOUR. THE INTERCHA PTEP. . 



N the first announcement of a New Book upon an Old Theme, 
custom and convenience alike require that a word should 
be said in shape of introduction and explanation. Its object, 
its usefulness, its points of novelty, and intended appearance, 
become the proper text for the Preface. 

First, then, of the intention of this Book, which is to 
make more pleasantly familiar in England the most beau- 
tiful and most romantic of the rivers of Europe ; to show 
how easily its scenery may be enjoyed, and how small an outlay of time and 
money is requisite to make acquaintance with the charms of The Rhine — 
the stream of the Conqueror, the Poet, and the Painter — the river of rivers — its 
majestic banks made historical by Caesar, by Charlemagne, by Napoleon ; its 
crumbling ruins in picturesque decay, each in itself a lingering romance of the 
Middle Ages ; its vine-clad slopes, the parent of the Rheinivein, and theme of a 
thousand songs ; its rapid waters, the fabled dwelling-place of sprites and mer- 
maidens ; — the River of " The Fatherland." 

The charm of The Rhine Tour is increased by the facility with which it is 
made. Steam is our willing slave, ready to bear us, afloat by vessel and ashore 




2 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



by railway, on our pilgrimage in search of health, of change, of amusement; 
of instruction, or the picturesque. Gallantly, in spite of wind and tide, it breasts 
its way, and places Cologne but a day's journey from London ; — as near as 
the English Lakes, and nearer than the Highlands of Scotland ! 

That the pleasure of the trip has the further merit of utility needs but little 
proof. Travel teaches what books never teach so well. It roots out prejudices, 
expands the feelings, cultivates the taste, sharpens the intellect, and, beyond all 
other means, polishes the manners. The advantage of the lessons thus taught is 
beyond all calculation. The old moralist was right in estimating men according 
to their knowledge of strange lands and languages. " He who knows one country 
and one tongue, is as one man ; he who knows two, is as two ; he who knows 
three, has treble power ; and so on in like proportion." 

The " Grand Tour" is no longer the privilege of the few ; for steam has thrown 
down the barrier of cost, and offers to all the teachings of travel — lessons in the 
great School of the world — easily and agreeably learned, and long remembered. 
Steam is, indeed, our Great Schoolmaster. Not satisfied with pouring forth, for 
our use and delectation, books by thousands and newspapers by millions, the 
Vapoury Giant opens all Europe for the inspection, the amusement, and instruc- 
tion of the Summer Tourist ; in a few hours bearing him over those boundaries 
which man and nature have set up between race and race, between country 
and country, as though to prevent that free and kindly intercourse which, when 
indulged, is found to be so delightfully congenial to our really social nature. 

Each stage of the Rhine Tour has its own peculiar attractions. First, the 
trip across the Channel, and up " the lazy Scheldt ; " then Antwerp, one of the 
finest old cities of the Continent, with its citadel and story of battles and sieges ; 
its tall Spanish-built houses, their aspect telling their history ; its magnificent 
Gothic Cathedral, and above all, its memory of Rubens, and its treasury of his 
works. Then the railroad trip, with its trumpet signals, through the fruitful 
fields of Belgium, to Brussels. The life, vivacity, and cleanliness, of the modern 
portions of that " little Paris," its park, boulevards, and petite palaces, contrasting 
with the gloomy grandeur of the old town. Then the plain of Waterloo, with 
its monuments and recollections ever interesting to the Englishman. Then Liege, 
the busy centre of manufacturing industry, — the Birmingham of Belgium. Then 
the delightful valley of the Meuse, and Aix-la-Chapelle, its baths, and gaiety ; 
and again, the railroad to Cologne, its old cathedral, its three skeleton kings, 
unnumbered virgins, and other legendary histories. There the Rhine gives first 
foretaste of future beauties, as above Cologne the Seven Mountains, with the 
Drachenfels as their King, first break upon the sight. Ehrenbreitstein, the 
Broad Stone of Honor, next frowns upon the gazer, and, following too thickly 
for cursory description, the features of the Rhine now crowd on his delighted 



INTRODUCTION. 



3 



notice. Mountains built up, as it were, of successive seams of hard bare rock, 
and rich strips and patches of earth covered by the vine — graceful bends of 
river scenery — villages cowering for shelter under huge rocks on the banks, 
the stream laving their very door-stone, and the hills rising, like earthy giants, 
above the rustic roof, and slender church spires, — each mountain pinnacled by 
some ruined fortalice invested with wild legendary associations, and enriched 
by all the poetical garniture of chivalric tale, and " ballad historic" From 
Ehrenbreitstein to Bingen is one continuous succession of delightful scenery ; 
now bold and startling, the rocks jutting bare and barren in rude sublimity, 
anon the mountain tops mingle into soft outlines, their bases shutting in the 
windings of the river, until the gazer finds himself passing through a seeming 
succession of lakes. It is, indeed, a land of beauty and poetry. From the days 
of the Romans to the time of Charlemagne, through the romance of the Crusades, 
and the stirring periods of the Middle Ages, until Napoleon rose to startle 
Europe, and form an era in modern history, — the Rhine has been an historic 
river. To its geographical importance is added the potent charm of natural 
beauty ; and the accumulated associations of ages have invested it with a degree 
of interest which others may claim or envy, but may never expect to enjoy. 

By this route the Rhine bears its pilgrim on his way — each few miles offering, 
on either bank, towns and villages as halting-places, should he wish to linger — 
until he reaches Mayence, the birth-place of the printing press. From this point 
he may make excursions to Wiesbaden, to Franckfort, to Heidelburg, to Carlsruhe, 
to Baden-Baden, to Strasbourg, or, retracing his steps when the more beautiful 
portions of the river have been exhausted, may hasten down the rapid current 
to Holland ; — that most curious of countries — a land filched from the sea. 

" A country that draws fifty feet of water, 
In which men live as in the hold of nature, 
And when the sea does in upon them break, 

And drowns a province, does but spring a leak." Hudibras. 

The Rhine Book, by an arrangement entirely novel, seeks to separate the 
Romance of Travel from its Common-place. The numerous illustrations from 
original sketches, and the attractions of the finest printing, will, it is hoped, 
render the volume worthy of the library, the drawing-room, or the boudoir, whilst 
it unites with its claims to elegance those points of practical usefulness necessary 
in a Guide Book. Dates, distances, times, and prices, will be found fully and 
exactly stated, to enable the Tourist to know and regulate his expenses at plea- 
sure, and to avoid those extortions to which, when destitute of such information, 
he would most certainly be subjected. 

The Interchapters contain various points of detail gathered in the countries 
to which they refer. The Tourist who only seeks amusement or relaxation need 



4 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



not trouble himself with more of them than may be requisite or serviceable for 
the regulation of his movements ; but will scarcely complain that facts and 
figures valuable and interesting to the student of history and to the political 
economist find place in company with things more personally important, such as 
lists of exhibitions, catalogues of pictures, and collections of hotel cards. 

In preparing the details of the Interchapter for Belgium free use has been 
made of the Volume of Monsieur J. Duplessy upon the Railroads of that country, 
— a work compiled from official documents, and, notwithstanding the modesty of 
its title, sanctioned by His Majesty King Leopold, and largely patronised by his 
people. And here it may not be out of place to state that 

The expense of travelling by railway in Belgium is much inferior to the charge made in England. 
Let us take for example the railroad from Birmingham to Liverpool, 97^ miles (rather less than 
157 kilom.). The price of the best places is 11. 5s. (31 francs 25 centimes) or 20 centimes per 
kilom. In Belgium, from Brussels to Antwerp, a distance of 44 kilom., the diligences cost 3 
francs 50 centimes, that is 8 centimes per kilom. ; the price in the waggons does not amount to 
more than 3 or 4 centimes per kilom., and in England the cheapest places come to 11| centimes 
per kilom. 

In France, upon the railway from Paris to Saint Germain (18,500 metres), the lowest places 
are 1 franc, and on the road from Paris to Versailles, right bank (18,000 metres), they are 1 franc 
25 centimes. 

The advantage with respect to economy is still in favour of Belgium. 

The German "Legends" in the latter part of the book have been chiefly 
rendered from the versions of Reismann ; care having been taken to select those 
most likely to interest the English Traveller, and to afford a correct notion of 
the traditionary stores of The Rhine ; — its brave knights and fair ladies ; its 
ancient warriors, mischievous demons, cunning gnomes, and graceful mer- 
maidens 

" bright forms that lure but to betray." 



4- 




INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER, 



FACTS, FIGURES, DISTANCES, PASSPORTS, MONEYS, EXPENSES, INNS, CUSTOM HOUSES, CONVEYANCES, 
LANGUAGE, EXHIBITIONS, AMUSEMENTS, PICTURES, ETC. 



LONDON TO 

Passports. — The traveller who decides upon 
visiting the Rhine will do well to take steam to 
Antwerp. To do this it is first requisite to 
procure a passport ; a Belgian one vise by the 
Prussian Minister is the best. To procure this 
a visit must be paid to the office of the Belgian 
ambassador, No. 50. Portland Place, between the 
hours of eleven and two. The traveller's name 
and appearance will be taken the first day. 
Upon calling next morning the passport will 
be delivered to him free of charge. It should 
be taken between eleven and two o'clock to the 
Prussian Ambassador, No. 4. Carlton House 
Terrace, St. James's Park, who will affix the 
necessary signature, also without charge. Having 
done this the traveller possesses the passport he 
requires, and he may start upon his tour with- 
out fear of detention, either in Belgium, on the 
Rhine, or in Holland. Should he require a 
passport in haste, the best plan is to go to the 
Prussian Consul, B. Hebeler, Esq., No. 106. 
Fenchurch Street, City, who will supply it on 
payment of seven shillings. 

Conveyance. — Steam-boats for the Rhine, by 
way of Antwerp and Ostend, leave London 
three or four times a-week. Vessels of the 
General Steam Navigation Company leave 
Blackwall every Thursday and Saturday. For 
the tourist who studies economy, it is well to 
take a return ticket from the office of this 
company in Lombard Street, which tickets 
convey the purchaser up the Rhine, allowing 
him to land and remain at intermediate places 
as long as he may think fit, and bring him back 
to England at a considerable reduction upon 
the fixed fares from place to place. The only 
objection to this plan is that the traveller must 
always journey by the same company's boats. 



ANTWERP. 

The direct fares from London are at the follow- 
ing rates : 

Fares to Antwerp from London. — Chief 
Cabin, 2l 2s.; Fore Cabin, 17. 12s. 6d. ; Chil- 
dren under ten years of age, half-price ; Coach, 
61. ; Chariot, 5l. ; Light Caleche, 41. ; Two-wheel 
Carriages, 31. ; Horses, 5l. ; Dogs, 10s. 

But it should be remarked here, that the 
steam-boat lands the passenger at Antwerp, 
from which city he must travel across Belgium 
to Cologne by railroad. From Cologne he 
ascends the river by the steam-boats, and, if he 
chooses to take a return ticket, comes down the 
Rhine, through Holland, and so on back to 
London by the vessels of the Steam Navigation 
Company. The cheapest route of all is to take 
a return ticket, via Rotterdam, returning the 
same way. By this mode the cost of the Bel- 
gian railroads is saved, but Belgium is not 
seen. 

Luggage. — Though the fares of the Belgian 
railways are low, the traveller will be charged 
heavily for luggage. If he travels alone, and 
proposes to make only the tour of the Rhine, 
he should avoid the Englishman's error of 
moving about with a horse-load of baggage. 
Let him leave his imaginary wants and his 
half-dozen portmanteaux at home, and be con- 
tent with what he can stow away in a carpet- 
bag. If, however, the Rhine is only followed 
as a route to some distant point, and he must 
have baggage, let him book it at the General 
Steam Navigation Company's Office in London 
direct by steam-boat to Cologne, where he can 
meet it. In this way he will avoid the annoy- 
ance, anxiety, and expense of "lugging" his 
burthen over land to the Rhine. 

Money. — For a trip upon the Rhine so little 



6 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



money is required, that the best plan is to carry 
English sovereigns, upon changing which a con- 
siderable premium is obtained — that is, if the 
innkeeper is not allowed to forget this advantage 
due to his customer. Should the traveller, 
however, contemplate a journey beyond the 
Rhine, into Switzerland and Italy, he should 
provide himself with circular notes, procurable 
from the bankers, Messrs. Coutts & Co., Strand ; 
the Union Bank of London, 2. Princes Street, 
Bank, Pall Mall East, and Argyle Place ; Sir 
Claude Scott & Co., Cavendish Square ; Messrs. 
Twining and Co., near Temple Bar. 
Value at which the following coins are current. 





Pruss. 


Frankft. 


Holland. 


Belgium 

and 
France. 




th. 

6 




gl- 
11 


kr. 

50 


S M. 


cts- 
90 


fr. 

25 


cts. 


English Shilling 




% 


9 


35 
55 


10 


58 


1 

21 


20 






4 


5 


30 


5 


50 


11 


60 






17 




58 






2 


11 






20 


*9 


50 


9 


90 


21 








1 


45 




70 


3 


70 


French Crown Thaler 




16 
16 
10 
6 
12 




44 










Brabant ditto 




i 


42 














'9 


24 
24 
30 










Piece of 20 kreutzers 








20 








10 

8 


2 


20 






5 




21 frank ditto 






28 




48 


1 





DISTANCES ON THE RHINE TOUR, 







Miles. 


London to Antwerp - - 


(Steam-boat) 


229 


Antwerp to Brussels - - 


(Railway) 


261 


Brussels to Liege - - - 


Do. 


67 


Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle - 


Do. 


28 


Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne 


Do. 


431 


Cologne to Bonn - 


(Steam-boat) 


20| 


Bonn to Coblenz 


Do. 


45| 


Coblenz to Boppart - - 


Do. 


141 


Boppart to Caub - , - 


Do. 


161 


Caub to Bingen - - « 


Do. 


1U 


Bingen to Bieberich - 


Do. 


14> 


Bieberich to Mayence - 


Do. 


3 


Mayence to Dusseldorf 


Do. 


156| 


Dusseldorf to Rotterdam - 


Do. 


1841 


Rotterdam to London - - 


Do. 


200 






1060i 



Distances. — A table showing, in English 
miles (omitting fractions), the distances of the 



principal towns in Belgium from the capital, 

and from each other. 

Note. The square, containing the angle common to 
any two towns, exhibits the distance between them. 
Thus, the distance from Ghent to Brussels is 30 miles, 
and from Antwerp to Liege 62. 



Antw 
Bruges 
Ghent. 
Ha!.! 32 



Liege. 



Lou vain. 
Malines.l 14 
Monsl 48 I 45 



Namur. 41 j 41 29 
Ostend. 1~98~ 70 I 68 I 80 



120 109 



The following will be useful to the traveller. 

MEASURE OF LENGTH IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES. 

Eng. Miles. Eng. Miles. 

- % 



] French league is 
1 Italian mile is - ll 

1 Spanish ditto (nearly) 3. 

2 

3' 



1 German ditto - 

1 Dutch ditto 

1 Russian verst - 



- 4 



or 2 leagues make 
or 7 Italian miles 
or 7 Spanish ditto 
or 7 German ditto 
3^,-, or 11 Dutch ditto 
or 3 Russian versts 



- 20 

- 33 

- 40 

- 2 



of which 
make 
one 
equatorial 



CONTINENTAL DISTANCES FOR A SINGLE POST. 

France - - 1 myriametre - - 11" 

Germany - 2 miles - - • 15 

Italy - - 8 miles - - - 60 

Holland - 2 leagues - - ]9 

Switzerland - 2 leagues - - 23 j degree. 

The French metre is 1-llth of a yard, or 11 metres 

make 12 yards. 
1 French pound is equal to lib. loz. I0dr. or 12 French 

make 13 English. 

HOTELS IN ANTWERP. 
Hotel St. Antoine, Place Verte, kept by Schmitt 
Spaenhoven. The English, French, and German 
Languages spoken. 

Hotel Du Pare, kept by Louis De la Pre', Place 
Verte, opposite the Cathedral. — Baths. 

Hotel Grand Xiaboureur, kept by v. J. Loos, 
Place de Meir, opposite the King's Palace. Table- 
d'hote at 2 and 4. 

Hotel D'ikngleterre, kept by C. Boisacq- 
Vanderhulst. This Hotel is in the centre of Ant- 
werp, near the Museum, and on the road from the 
Port to the Railway. 



ANTWERP. 



7 




Antwerp, from the Scheldt 



THE GOOD GENIUS OF ANTWERP. 

In the Year of Grace One thousand five hundred and eighty-eight, the gossips 
of the Place de Meir were amused by a group of persons, who slowly made their 
way along its uneven surface. They were strangers, and from the baggage 
carried by two boatmen, and the point from whence they came, it was clear that 
the canal had been their route from Marines. Their dress was a compound of 
German and Flemish, with but slight trace of the gayer and more elegant cos- 
tume of Spain, which at that time was patronised in Antwerp with much real 
satisfaction by the younger and richer portion of the citizens, but was regarded 
by the bulk of the people as a caged tiger might look on the spangled habili- 
ments of its keeper. It was evident that the inquisitive looks directed towards 
the new comers gleaned from the outward aspect of the party but slight inform- 
ation calculated to arouse more than a passing interest. It was a widow and her 
family: she a portly dame, but much dejected in her manner, and they, five 
sturdy -looking youths and two daughters — the latter more remarkable for neat- 
ness than for beauty. All but the mother looked round about them enquiringly, 
as though to see how the aspect of their new home chimed with the idea they 
had foreshadoAved of it, and one of them, — a boy about ten years old, — showed 
more than Flemish feeling, by shouting with glee as he pointed out to his sisters 
the beautiful spire of the Cathedral, the decorated gables of some new Spanish- 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



built houses, and the rich trappings of a passing cavalier. — Suddenly the caril- 
lons broke forth with their music, and the shouts were doubled. 

" Peter, Peter!" cried his mother, as the boy ran across the broad handsome 
street to gaze into a court-yard, where a large basket of flowers had been placed : 
" you must be more staid, or you will never be a lawyer." 

In a moment he was at his mother's side, and taking one of her hands in both 
of his, he walked obediently with her, as she led the way down a small street on 

the left hand, and entered 
a house. The boy looked 
round about him, and turn- 
ing to the youngest girl, 
said, " I am sure you will 
like this place, sister. Do 
not be sorry we have left 
Cologne — we shall soon 
learn to love Antiverp as 
dearly as you loved your 
old home on the Rhine" 

In a week the Widow 
and her children were 
leading the quiet life of a 
quiet Flemish family. Peter 
was busily engaged in 
learning languages, which 
he did with great facility, 
and in talking about his in- 
tended study of the law, — 
the profession of his father. 
But its dry details and 
subtle niceties were not 
adapted to his warm ima- 
gination. His spirit 
yearned for things more 
bright and glowing. When 
the attire of his brethren 
and his sisters was dis- 
cussed, he always gave his 
voice and vote in favour 
of gay silks and rich vel- 
The Cathedral. vets beyond the mother's 




ANTWERP. 



9 



means. When a fete day called forth the holiday attire, it was Peter who arranged 
the disposition of the family wardrobe, and criticised the garments of the multitude 
of citizens who thronged the Cathedral at High Mass ; and when the mass was 
done, and the host of worshippers had departed, Peter would still linger before 
the picture of some saint, or stand by the hour watching the forms of the solitary 
penitents who knelt in prayer on the floor of the Cathedral, or in some one of its 
many chapels. The flood of rich light that then streamed through the lofty 
painted windows of the nave was another source of joy to him, — an object 
almost of his adoration, and he would gaze upon the gold and jewels and rich 
carvings of the grand altar, until its gorgeousness became almost a part of his 
mental self. With a thirsty mind, he drank in all that his eye could discover of 
the majestic and the gorgeous ; and when his thoughts were forced by duty from 
their favourite theme, to the petty quirks, the mean evasions, the unworthy sub- 
terfuges, and the cold, hard, worldly realities of the law, the inner rebellion was 
cruel. The memory of his father's wishes, the desires of his mother, and the 
persuasion of his friends, weighed heavily in the scale ; but a strong nature was 
too much for them, and Peter at length abandoned with exultation his legal studies 
to become a page in the house of a noble Spanish family. 

******* 

Two and fifty years passed away, and the gossips of the Place de Meir were 
again listening to the same carillons that had sounded a welcome to the widow's 
family more than half a century before. The beautiful spire was there, and the 
music was the same, and there was a group wending their way towards the 
widow's house. But where is the boy ? 

Youth long ago had given place to manhood, and even more disgusted with the 
servile duties of his post than with the formalities of the law, the Page became a 
Painter. With the devotion of a spirit engaged in its proper sphere, he wrought 
late and early at his easel, and soon there came forth from it bold vigorous forms 
grouped in luxuriant profusion, and gloAving with a richness of colour, such as 
never before was produced by the painters of Flanders. Soon on all hands he was 
greeted as a Master, and fame, and honours, and riches poured in rapidly upon 
him. Journeying to Italy to study the pictures of that country, his polished 
manners, and the news of his ability, procured him a warm reception at the Court 
of Mantua — whose Duke he consented to serve as Envoy to the Court of Spain. 
The stately hidalgos and lofty beauties of that sunny land were charmed with 
the handsome person, the finished address, and ready pencil of the young Flem- 
ing, and Philip the Third and the proudest of his grandees were anxious sitters 
before his easel. But the Ambassador was not forgotten in the Artist, nor was 
the object of his mission left unfulfilled. Returning to Mantua he reaped an 
abundant harvest of thanks and gold, and rich in the world's goods he went to 



c 



10 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Rome, to Bologna, to Venice, to Milan, to Genoa ; — noting in each their treasures 
of Art, and painting late and early with a noble desire to emulate the greatness 
of the Italian Masters. Whilst thus engaged he got news of the mortal sickness 
of his mother — and the son hurried with all the impatience of filial love to 
Antwerp, but arrived too late to receive her latest breath. 

Honours at home awaited him, but could not for a long time heal his grief. He 
was named a Counsellor of State, and the Archduke Albert loaded him with 
favours, and gave him a pension that he might have leisure if he chose it. They 
tempted him to live at Brussels ; but Antwerp was his home, he said, and there 
he still with unabated ardour worked on, painting altar-pieces, and other such 
pictures, for most of the chief churches of Belgium. Going to Paris to take a 
commission for twenty-one large paintings, the King, who ordered them, would 
have them completed in that city; but no I — Antwerp was his home, and there 
he finished them. Some time before this he had married a native of the city, 
and this bound him in affection still closer to the place ; but at length his wife died, 
and to amuse his grief he . travelled through Holland, and afterwards accepted 
missions for Madrid, and subsequently for England. In Spain he again made 
friends, and painted some magnificent pictures; — in England he succeeded in 
procuring for Flanders a treaty of commerce ; and surprised King Charles the 
First by the variety of his accomplishments, the soundness of his judgment, the 
richness of his fancy, and the power and never-ceasing industry of his pencil. 
From London he went again to Spain, and thence once more returned with soft- 
ened feelings to his much-loved Antwerp. There in the house near the Place de 
Meir the painter received visits from scions of royal houses ; there Ferdinand, 
the brother of Philip the Fourth of Spain, and there Maria de Medici, on her 
way into exile, visited him ; and thus the painter diplomatist and courtier 
brought honour to the city whilst he was enriching it by the immortal products 
of his pencil. 

But hark ! the carillons are playing merrily, and the group we saw have 
entered the house, and three of them ascend its stair. There is a notary, a 
physician, and a noble-looking youth, and they come to see the Painter die. 
There he lies surrounded by his family ; — noble -looking sons and comely 
daughters, and his young second wife. The physician says there is no hope, 
and the news affects the least the man it concerns most nearly. He is calmly 
resigned, and with a heart overflowing with love for those around him, amid the 
prayers and tears of his family, and the sorrow of his townsmen, he closes his 
earthly career. 

Yet though long since dead in body, his name lives after him, and the works 
of Peter Paul Rubens attest their author's claim to the title of The Good 
Genius of Antwerp. His house still stands near the Place de Meir for the 



ANTWERP. 



11 



traveller's inspection ; in the Cathedral may still be seen his masterpiece, the 
" Descent from the Cross ; " in the Museum are many of his most masterly pic- 
tures, and there too is his arm-chair, and a painting by a modern disciple display- 
ing the touching details of his death. In the chapel behind the high altar of the 
Church of St. Jacques we find the tomb where his ashes rest, and above it, from 
his own pencil, another of his masterpieces — "St. George with other saints 
before'the Virgin and Child," in which are portraits of himself, of his two wives, 
(Elizabeth Brant and Helena Forman,) of his children, and his father ; whilst in 
the centre of the greenest spot in the whole city, almost under the shadow of the 
beautiful spire that attracted his boyish admiration, and in sound of his dearly- 
loved carillons, stands the Statue raised to his memory. Having gazed on these 
the Stranger has no difficulty in forming his judgment on the city. The religion of 
the land has reared lofty and most beautiful monuments to decorate it ; its old 
supremacy of trade has left behind long piles of noble houses, broad squares, and 
handsome avenues ; the spirit of war shows its presence and power in the place 
by bastions, foss, and ditches innumerable ; but not one of these forms the dis- 
tinguishing mark of the town. The name and fame of a Painter are its real 
glory — Antwerp is the City of Rubens.* 

Whilst rambling round the town in search of the memorials of Rubens, the 
Tourist meets most of the other objects it has to offer for his notice. In the 
Place de Meir, close to the artist's house, stands the King's Palace, a plain unin- 
teresting building ; and when he leaves the Rue Rubens to walk to the Museum, 
he may pass through the old Bourse, and note its Alhambra-like columns. In 
the narrow streets he will encounter many specimens of the genuine Fleming, 
both male and female ; and the coarse skins, long-eared caps, and wooden shoes of 
the women, if he be new to continental ways, will amuse him by their novelty, 
and suggest comparisons with the apparel of the labouring people of England. 
Arrived at the Museum he will find, besides the works of Rubens j, many pic- 

* "Having become acquainted with the Duke of Buckingham in Paris, he was commanded to 
negotiate with the Duke some affairs between Spain and England. That nobleman purchased 
his collection of works of art for 100,000 florins, and it was sent to England in 1625. Most of 
these paintings were again, upon the Duke's death, exported for sale, and the best pictures are now 
in the Belvidere Palace at Vienna. 

" Rubens had gone to Spain with Prince Charles and Buckingham, according to some accounts, 
in 1623; but this circumstance is very much doubted, as several things appeared to make his 
journey thither at that time very improbable. 

" While in England this great artist painted the present roof of Whitehall Chapel, or, more 
properly, the banqueting- room of Whitehall Palace, for which he was paid 3000/." — Life of 
Rubens. 

f The opinion of Sir Joshua Reynolds, our chief English critic upon the works of Rubens, 
must find place here. Sir Joshua left England chiefly to see the pictures of Rubens, influenced 



12 



THE RHINE BOOK. 




tures of high character by Vandyke, 
Jordaens, and Quentyn Matsys. with 
numerous other characteristic produc- 
tions of the Flemish school. 

perhaps by the suggestions of Oliver Goldsmith, 
who had previously passed on foot and 
in great poverty through Flande 
this part of his career the poet 
refers in the opening lines of 
the Traveller : — 

" Alone, unfriended, melancholy, slow, 
Or by the lazy Scheldt, or wand'ring Po." 

" The works of men of genius 
alone, where great faults are 
united with great beau- 
ties, afford proper matter 
for criticism. Genius is 
always eccentric, bold, 
and daring ; which, at 
the same time that it 
commands attention, is 
sure to provoke criticism. 
It is the regular, cold, 
and timid composer who 
escapes unseen, and de- 
serves no praise. 

" The elevated situa- 
tion on which Rubens 
stands in the esteem of 
the world is alone a suf- 
ficient reason for some 
examination of his pre- 
tensions. His fame is ex- 
tended over a great part 
of the Continent without 
a rival ; and it may be 
justly said that he has 
enriched his country, not 
in a figurative sense 
alone, by the great ex- 
amples of art which he 
left, but by what some 
would think a more solid 
advantage, — the wealth 
arising from the con- 




RUBENS. 



13 



course of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. ****** Having now 
seen his greatest compositions, where he has more means of displaying those parts of his art in 
which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in 
large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase 
in proportion to the size of the canvass on which they are to be displayed. His superiority is not 
seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works ; which are seldom eminently 
beautiful. It does not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect, 

— in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. 

"The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius, — to attract 
attention, and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating 
power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have, 
perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and insipid; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer, 
Schut, Segers, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose hands, 
and, indeed, all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that 
every thing they did was the effect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on 
the contrary, seem to flow with a freedom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing ; and to 
the general animation of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of 
the work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the 
flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which every object is touched, 

— all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some 
measure, correspondent sensations, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the 
painter was carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of the work, 
so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind : every thing is of a piece, and 
fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of form appears to correspond better with his 
colouring and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply 
considered, might have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently 
found a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often more captivating 
than mere regular beauty. 

" Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary for every artist to 
assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of 
authority; to consider the rules as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules; to 
risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensations* 
and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by 
which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Rubens had made up 
his manner, he never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his 
works that appears to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed any thing, he has had the 
address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable. 

" Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of 
imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye ; he saw at once the predominant 
feature by which every object is known and distinguished : and as soon as seen, it was executed 
with a facility that is astonishing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely 
examines a picture, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt 
by those who are not painters, I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that objects be 
truly represented ; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means, here, that the 
work is done with facility and without effort. Rubens was perhaps the greatest master in the 
mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. 

" This power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to represent whatever 



14 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, are so 
admirable, that it may be said they were never properly represented but by him. His portraits 
rank with the best works of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business 
of their lives ; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be said of 
his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, as becomes a professor in 
any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Rubens, 
that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist 
whatever. 

" The pictures of Rubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels himself in no wise 
disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms which are made on him are, indeed, 
often unreasonable. His style ought no more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of 
Michael Angelo, than Ovid should be censured because he is not like Virgil. 

" However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which would have 
perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters : 
sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they are healthy and comely women, but seldom, 
if ever, possess any degree of elegance : the same may be said of his young men and children. 
His old men have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never possessed a 
poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian 
or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is 
conceived of such beings, the spectator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with 
every day. 

" The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds from haste and 
carelessness than from inability : there are in his great works, to which he seems to have paid more 
particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He 
appears to have entertained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the 
old German and Flemish painters ; to avoid which he kept his outline large and flowing : this, 
carried to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in his figures. 
Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that 
of his women : it is scarcely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens are, 
in this respect, in opposite extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, 
and the other too little. Rubens's drapery, besides, is not properly historical ; the quality of 
the stuff of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul 
Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Rubens than it would be in many other painters 
as it partly contributes to that richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do 
not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. 

" The difference of the manner of Rubens from that of any other painter before him is in 
nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different from that of Titian, 
Correggio, or any of the great colourists. The effect of his pictures may be not improperly 
compared to clusters of flowers : all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time 
he has avoided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this 
respect resembling Barocci more than any other painter. What was said of an ancient painter 
may be applied to those two artists, — that their figures look as if they fed upon roses. 

" It would be a curious and profitable study for a painter to examine the difference, and the 
cause of that difference, of effect in the works of Correggio and Rubens, both excellent in 
different ways. The difference, probably, would be given according to the different habits of the 
connoisseur : those who had received their first impressions from the works of Rubens would 
censure Correggio as heavy ; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted solidity of 



QTJENTYN MATSYS' WELL. 



15 



Wbz Hegenfc of tftt ^lartonttlj, 

Clang, clang, sounds the heavy hammer 

Clang, clang, with a constant roar ; 
Thicker fall the blows and faster 

By that dingy smithy door. 
Sturdy is the blacksmith's figure, 
Firmly knit with strength enow 
To lift the hammer like a plaything, 

Yet there's pain upon his brow. 
Trouble sore and sad vexation 

Clouds his handsome face the while, 
Still he plies his old vocation : 
Where is gone his olden smile ? 

Clang, clang, goes the heavy hammer, 
Clang, clang, with a constant roar, 
Thicker fall the blows and faster 
On that dingy smithy floor. 

Supple now the stubborn iron 

Twines within the craftsman's hand, 
Into shapes and curves fantastic 

Twists it still at his command, 



effect. There is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advocates will urge, and compara- 
tively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers will complain of Rubens's manner 
being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of 
delicacy ; and what may be advanced in favour of Correggio's breadth of light will, by his 
censurers, be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed, that we are speaking solely of 
the manner, the effect of the picture ; and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral 
poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority 
to either. 

"To conclude, — I will venture to repeat in favour of Rubens, what I have before said in 
regard to the Dutch school, — that those who cannot see the extraordinary merit of this great 
painter, either have a narrow conception of the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation 
of approving nothing but what comes from the Italian school." — Tour in Holland and Flanders, by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds. 



16 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Till on upright standards stately 

A roof is fashion'd, light and tall, 
With an iron carved figure 
Pois'd like pinnacle o'er all. 

Mid the clang of heavy hammer, 

Screech of file, and bellows' roar, 
Faster works the smith and faster 
On the hot and dusty floor. 



He has wrought with fierce devotion, 

And at last his task is done, 
Down he casts his heavy hammer, 

Forth he walks into the sun. 
Antwerp's spire, so graceful tapering, 

Rich in tracery towards the sky, 
Ne'er attracts his sad attention, 
Fix'd upon a casement nigh. 

" Cursed be the clang of hammer, 

Screech of files and bellows' voice, 
Since it keeps me from my lover, 
From the maiden of my choice ! " 



Suddenly his face upbrighten'd, 

Gone the sadness — brow unknit, 
As a thought of hope came o'er him, 

He might win his mistress yet. 
***** 
* * * * * 

Silent soon the heavy hammer, 
Cold the fire, untrod the floor, 

Rusty grows the Blacksmith's anvil, 
Cobwebs tie the smithy door. 



A month has fled, and who comes now 
With a lightsome tread and a joyous brow? 
He enters the home of the maiden fair, 
He lifts the latch, and he mounts the stair, 
Seeking her father's studio there : — 



QUENTYN MATSYS' WELL. 



17 



" The Blacksmith ! What ? — you know my vow ?" 
" No blacksmith — but a Painter now ; — 
Behold my work — behold your son, 
Learn what the force of love has done ! " 



Before the father's startled gaze 

See now a picture stand, 
Rich in the limner's every grace, 

Wrought by a Master's hand. 

" Love a miracle has wrought, 

Love a miracle has done, 
Blacksmith he my daughter sought, 
Painter he has won : 

Call the maiden to my side, 
Quentyn Matsys take your bride." 

And this story of true love 

When the Antwerp gossips tell, 
Still, in token of its truth, 

They point to Matsys' well. 
Though the Painter and his spouse 

Ages since to dust have gone, 
Still the iron that he wrought 

Canopies the stone. 
If the Legend runs aright, 

A Phantom comes at dead of night, 
Plies the Blacksmith's dingy trade, 

And fills the seams that Time has made. 
There until our day it stands, 

Still preserv'd by elfin hands, 
Still its curves fantastic tell 

How Love wrought a Miracle.* 




QUEJJTTN MATSYS - WELL. 



* " The monument of Matsys himself, exhibiting his portrait in bas-relief, together with his 
arms and epitaph, may be seen attached to the wall of the western front of the cathedral of 
Antwerp, at the foot of the great tower, and immediately opposite to the iron frame of the fountain. 
Under the portrait is this inscription : " Quintino Metsiis, incomparabilis artis pictori, admiratrix 
grataque posteritas anno post obitum saeculari cio. id. c.xxxix posuit." On another stone is the 
following line : — 

" Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem." 



18 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



When Rubens, Quentyn Matsys, and the other painters whose names and 
works are associated with the Cathedral, have received their meed of admiration, 

the Traveller will 




scarcely 
another 
edifice, 
well as 



fail to remark 
feature of the 
The Carver, as 
the Painter and 



the Architect, has helped 
to complete the effect of 
the Gothic churches of 
Belgium; and in Ant- 
werp still remain many 
of the most elaborate 
works of the chisel. For 
the eye that loves a Go- 
thic interior this adds 
greatly to the interest of 
the Flemish places of 
worship. The Wood- 
Carver is the only proper 
Sculptor for a Gothic 
edifice : marble is too cold 
and classic, and harmo- 
nises but indifferently 
with the grotesque and 
elaborate decorations of 
an ancient chapel. The 
pulpit and the confession- 
als of Antwerp Cathedral 
afford proof of the skill and 
industry expended upon 

oak carvings in this country in old times ; and the stalls in the choir show that 
the Belgians of our day are not willing to be outdone by their forefathers in 
zealous attention to the decoration of their religious edifices. 

When the buildings, the pictures, and the carvings have been admired, the 
Traveller should close his eyes, if he desires to retain a favourable impression of 
the religion and of the people. He should not see the frippery of the churches ; the 
dolls, the tinsel, the flounced petticoats, and " Bartlemy " finery. If, however, he is 
a student of human nature, as well as an admirer of the arts, he can then note the 
number of kneeling penitents before a greasy collection of half-burned candles, as 



a::i .verp cathedral. 



RELIGION IN ANTWERP. 



they " gutter" away in sickly-looking waste during the broad daylight before some 
decked-out wooden Virgin or wax saint. He may visit also " the Calvary," with 
its theatrical array of flames, saints, and evangelists ; and, peeping through the 
iron grating of the sham sepulchre, may behold " the Tomb of the Crucifixion," 
with its collection of gold and silver offerings made by the devout. 




THE CALVARY, ANTWERP. 



In a gloomy cave, dimly visible in the half light, lies a figure intended to repre- 
sent Christ. The face and hands only are seen, the body being covered by a 
cere-cloth. Small silver crosses, embossed hearts, crucifixes, and trinkets of 
various shapes lie upon the figure, and hang suspended beside it, whilst an empty 
lamp, similarly complimented by devotees, hangs above. The stone upon which 
the worshippers kneel, when they come to pray before this waxen Saviour, is 
worn hollow by human knees ! More than a century ago a poet said : — 

" When Superstition (bane of manly virtues) 
Strikes root within the soul ; it over-runs 
And kills the power of reason." 



D 2 



20 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Let the Traveller draw his own conclusions ; but, if they be unfavourable to the 
religion which makes such displays, let him remember that Belgium is at present 
" the most Catholic country in Europe ; " and that to give utterance to sentiments 
inimical to the faith of the land he has come to see, is— to say the best of it — 
bad taste. His opinions are his own ; let his tongue be his own also, and let him 
hold it fast. 




OARYED OAK PULPIT — ANTWERP CATHEDRAL. 



INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




1 Cathedral. 

2 St. Jacques. 

3 St. Paul. 

4 St. Andre". 

5 St. Augustin. 

6 St. Charles. 

7 St. Antoine. 



8 St. Joseph. 

9 French Chapel. 

10 Exchange. 

1 1 Great Theatre. 

12 Varietes' Theatre. 

13 Town House. 



14 Museum. 

15 Civil Hospital. 

16 Bank. 

17 Post Office. 

18 Horse Post. 

19 Rubens' House. 



20 Government House. 

21 Military Hospital. 

22 King's Palace. 

23 Beguinage. 

2+ Botanical Garden. 
25 Anseatic House. 



ANTWERP. 



CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN ANTWERP. 

1. The Cathedra], (one of the most splendid 
Gothic works in existence,) with pictures by 
Rubens, Vandyke, and others. 

2. The Church of St. Jacques — Pictures by 
Rubens and Vandyke, and tomb of Rubens. 

3. Rubens' House. 

4. The Church of St. Paul — Paintings _ 
the Calvary. 

5. The Church of the Augustines — Pictures 
by Rubens, Vandyke, and Jordaens. 

6. The Museum — Collection of Paintings. 

7. The Statue of Rubens. 

8. The Citadel. 

Post Office. — Chief post office, Place 



Verte ; branch offices ; 1. at the corner of the 
Place des Facons ; 2. Fosses aux Crapauds, 
opposite the Rue de l'Empereur ; 3. Place de 
Meir, at the corner of the Rue du Chene ; 4. at 
the Petit-Marche. 

Theatres. — Royal Theatre, open Sunday, 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Comedies, 
dramas, grand operas, comic ditto, burlesques. 
Price of admittance : 1 st boxes and stalls, 3 
francs 50 cents ; 2nd boxes and parquet, 2 francs 
50 cents ; Pit boxes, 2 francs ; Pit, 1 franc 50 
cents. 

Theatre des Varietes, Place St. George. 
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Secondary 
style comedies and vaudevilles. Price of ad- 
mittance : 1st boxes, 2 francs ; 1st gallery and 



22 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



parquet, 1 franc 50 cents ; 2nd boxes, 1 franc ; 
Pit, 75 cents. 

Private Clubs. — The Philotaxe, Rue des 
Tanneurs; the Union, Place Verte; Chess 
Club, Place de Meir; the William Tell, Rue 
Leopold ; Military Club, Place Verte. Stran- 
gers are admitted on being presented by a 
member. 

Hackney Coaches. — Vigilantes, Place 
Verte ; Place de Meir ; Fare within the Avails 
50 cents (5c?. Eng. ) ; by the hour, 1 franc 25 
cents the 1st hour, and 1 franc each ensuing 
hour. 

Antwerp, in Flemish Antwerpen, the chief 
town of the province of that name, is situated in 
a plain 51° 13' 16" N. latitude, and 2° 3' 55" 
East longitude, 20 leagues from the sea, on the 
right bank of the Scheldt. 

The Scheldt, in Flemish Schelde, the largest 
of the two rivers of Belgium, rises in France, 
near the Castelet (department of the Aisne), 
receives the canal of St. Quentin at Cambrai, 
passes under the walls of Bouchain, Valen- 
ciennes and Conde, and enters Belgium after 
its junction with the Scarp e : it waters the 
western part of the province of Hainault, runs 
to Tournay, Esquelmes, and Herinnes, where it 
forms the limit between Hainault and West 
Flanders ; it then divides the latter from East 
Flanders, runs towards the N. E. by Oudenarde 
and Ghent : suddenly changing its direction 
from west to east, it waters Wetteren and 
Dendermond ; it then bounds West Flanders 
and the province of Antwerp : at the fort of 
Bath it divides itself into two considerable 
branches ; the southern, under the name of West 
Scheldt (Hond or Wester Schelde), takes a 
westerly direction across the southern part of 
Zealand, and falls into the north sea below 
Flushing, where it is 3 leagues and a half in 
breadth. 

The other branch, called the Eastern Scheldt 
(Ooster Schelde), flows first to the N. E., on 
the limits of North Brabant and Zealand, turns 
towards the W. N. W., in the north of the first 
of these provinces, and falls into the North Sea 



by an opening 2 leagues and a half wide, 5 
leagues N.N.E. from the West Scheldt. The 
course of the Scheldt is 86 leagues, of which 
about 13 compose the course just described; 
its course in the province of Antwerp is 11 
leagues. The water is salt as far as the forts 
of Lillo (15 leagues from its mouth); the 
water is fresh at Antwerp, but too thick to be 
drunk. The tide is perceivable in the Scheldt, 
as far up as Ghent ; thus it influences the river 
even as far as 40 leagues above its mouth. 

History. — Antwerp is in the form of a 
drawn bow, the string of which would be the 
Scheldt. Its origin is obscure and fabulous, 
like that of most ancient cities. According to 
an old tradition, there existed, about the time 
that Cassar entered Belgium, a giant named 
Antigon, who demanded from all the merchants 
who went up the river a certain part of their 
merchandise ; and when any one deceived him as 
to the value, he not only confiscated the whole 
of the goods, but he also cut off the merchant's 
hand and threw it into the Scheldt. A certain 
Salvius Brabon, or Brabant, killed the giant, 
after having made him undergo the same 
punishment ; thence the castle in which the 
giant resided received the name of Antwerpen, 
from the Flemish words Hand, a hand, and 
Werpen, to cast. Notwithstanding the fabu- 
lous derivation of this origin, the remembrance 
of the giant has been preserved ; his statue 
figures in all solemn processions ; and in the 
arms of the town may be seen two hands, and a 
triangular castle. — St. Amand built the church 
of St. Peter and St. Paul at Antwerp in the 
7th century, and St. Eloy came to preach 
there about the year 646. The Normans burnt 
the town in 837, and in 885 they rebuilt a 
castle near the Werf, a door and three towers 
of which still exist, though concealed by some 
houses, built since 1480. 

Trade. — Antwerp was under the yoke of 
the kings of France until 977. In 1124 the 
town was already very populous and extensive, 
but it was only about the beginning of the 16th 
century that it took a regular form ; from that 
period it rapidly increased, and soon became 



ANTWERP. 



23 



the general mart of the North, the South, and 
the East : its population exceeded 200,000 
souls; it contained 300 painters and 140 gold- 
smiths ; 5000 merchants daily assembled on 
the exchange ; 500 vessels came up the Scheldt 
to it every day ; a single tide frequently used 
to bring up 400, and 2500 were usually at 
anchor before the town, whilst 500 carriages 
daily conveyed thither the merchandise of 
France and Germany. The merchants of 
Antwerp were so rich, that Charles V"., having 
one day vouchsafed to accept of an invitation to 
dinner, at the house of one of them named 
Daens, who had lent him 2,000,000 of florins, 
the merchant put the emperor's note into the 
fire, at the end of the feast, saying to him, " 1 
am overpaid by the honour your Majesty has 
conferred upon me to-day." This state of 
prosperity ceased at the period of the wars of 
religion ; the Iconoclasts pillaged the churches, 
and destroyed the images ; that of the Virgin 
was insulted at the procession of August 15, 
1566, and there was much blood shed in the 
streets ; ten years afterwards Antwerp was 
pillaged by the Spaniards, who burnt 500 
houses, destroyed the town -hall, a master-piece 
of architecture, and killed 10,000 citizens. 

Sieges. — The siege which Antwerp withstood 
in 1485 against the Prince of Parma is one of the 
most celehrated in history. The hridge thrown 
by the prince over the Scheldt, and the machines 
he made use of, were astonishing. Antwerp 
yielded to the French in 1792; they left it the 
next year, but re-took it in 1 794 ; it then be- 
came the chief town of the department of the 
Deux-Nethes. In 1809 the English attempted 
to burn the dockyards and vessels, but were 
repulsed; in 1814 they endeavoured to take 
possession of the town, but General Carnot, 
who was the commandant, only gave it up to 
the allies after the treaty of Paris. It belonged 
to the kingdom of the Netherlands until the 
revolution of 1830, as the chief town of the 
department of the same name. It is known 
that in 1832 the French and Belgians attacked 
the citadel occupied by the Dutch, and that 
this memorable siege ended December 23, by 



the capitulation of the besieged, after a siege of 
24 days. 

Preskxt State. — Antwerp has now a popu- 
lation of 78,000 inhabitants; the width of the 
greater part of its streets, the number of its 
public squares, the vastness of the basins of its 
port, the splendour of its churches, the beauty 
of its buildings, the elegance of its numerous 
mansions and private residences, render it one 
of the most remarkable towns in Europe. 
Among the principal squares worth notice are 
the Town Hall, the Place Verte, the Place 
Ste. Walburge, between the quays of Vandyke 
and of Jordaens, and the Place de Meir ; the 
latter is formed by the sudden widening of a 
fine large street of the same name ; it contains 
the king's palace, the interior of which is orna- 
mented with fine paintings ; Napoleon had it 
sumptuously furnished. The king lodges there 
when he comes to Antwerp. 

The Cathedral may certainly claim to rank 
third in Europe in scale of magnificence. The 
spire is variously estimated at 370 to 450 feet 
in height ; and its true altitude is certainly 
400 feet. In lightness and elegance it surpasses 
all its compeers ; and as it decreases from story 
to story as it ascends, its beauty becomes more 
striking, whilst the graceful richness of its ap- 
pearance calls to mind the graphic comparison 
of Buonaparte, that it looked like Mechlin lace. 
The construction of the spire was commenced 
in 1422, and it took nearly a century to com- 
plete it. It has a peal of the bells (Carillons) 
for which Belgium is remarkable. The prin- 
cipal one weighs 16,000 lbs. ; and the report is, 
that the strength of sixteen men is required to 
ring it. The interior is as remarkable for its 
decoration, as the exterior for its magnificence : 
statues, pictures, carvings in wood, lamps, can- 
delabra, and the other adjuncts of Romish wor- 
ship, are there in profusion. The vast dimen- 
sions of the building are seen to best advantage 
from the organ-loft, from whence to the high 
altar the distance is 500 feet ; the breadth is 
240 feet, and the height of the roof is 360 feet. 
The chief aisle is one of the largest known, 
the side aisles are double, and two smaller aisles 



24 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



terminate at the cross-aisle. Before the French 
revolution these smaller aisles were ornamented 
with 32 marble altars, pictures and ornaments 
of great value : there were 100 chandeliers of 
massive silver, four altar fronts of the same 
metal, and a remonstrance of massive gold, 
which several sovereigns had been pleased to 
enrich with diamonds. The church of Notre 
Dame was raised to the rank of a cathedral by 
Pope Paul IV. in 1569 ; Pius VII. suppressed 
the bishopric of Antwerp in 1802 ; Notre 
Dame, which then became a mere cure of the 
first class, dependent on the archbishopric of 
Mechlin, has nevertheless retained the title of a 
cathedral. The pictures of Rubens are the 
most admirable ornament of the edifice; the 
reputation of the Descent from the Cross is 
universal ; it has often been engraved. Two 
anecdotes with respect to this picture are 
current. Rubens wished to alter the arrange- 
ment of his house, which was contiguous to 
that of the company of gunsmiths ; the latter, 
perceiving that Rubens encroached upon their 
ground, made a demand upon him ; Rubens 
maintained his right ; a long lawsuit was about 
to take place, when the burgomaster Rockox, 
his friend, proposed an arrangement which was 
agreed to. The ground in question was ceded 
to Rubens on condition that he would paint 
an altar-piece for the company, with shutters, 
intended for the gunsmiths' chapel in the ca- 
thedral : the picture was to represent St. Chris- 
tophe, their patron saint. As the name of 
Christophe signifies, according to the Greek 
etymology, "to bear Christ," Rubens singularly 
enough imagined a picture in which all the 
figures should concur in bearing Christ, and he 
painted his Descent from the Cross : upon the 
shutters, by a similar allegory, he represented 
the Visitation, in which the Holy Virgin, in her 
pregnancy, also bears Christ ; and the Presen- 
tation at the Temple, with the high priest 
Simeon bearing the child Jesus in his arms. 
But the gunsmiths wanted a Saint Christophe, 
and not an allegorical picture ; and a new law- 
suit would have taken place, if Rubens had 
not consented to paint a colossal figure of 



St. Christophe on the exterior of one of the 
shutters. It is also said, with respect to the 
same master-piece, that during the great 
master's usual walk, his pupils having obtained 
his servant's permission to enter his paint- 
ing room, one of them, being pushed by 
another, fell on the picture, and effaced the arm 
of Mary Magdalene, and the cheek and chin 
of the Virgin that Rubens had just finished. 
It is easy to imagine their consternation ; how- 
ever, it was necessary to repair the misfortune ; 
they prevailed upon the one whom they all 
considered as the most able ; and the accident 
was so well repaired, that next day Rubens said, 
in the presence of his pupils, " Here are a head 
and arm which are not the worst part of my 
yesterday's work." That pupil was Vandyke. 

After having admired the Descent from the 
Cross, on crossing the church, we find another 
picture by Rubens, every way worthy of the 
great artist ; it represents the Elevation on the 
Cross ; it was painted for the church of Ste. 
Walburge ; the boldness of the composition is 
only to be equalled by the beauty of the draw- 
ing and the brilliancy of the colouring. These 
two pictures, which were taken away by the 
French during their dominion, were returned 
after the treaty of 1815. The Assumption of 
the Holy Virgin, by the same artist, next 
attracts our attention ; it is over the grand 
altar ; it is one of his most magnificent compo- 
sitions ; this great painting was executed in 16 
days, and paid for at the rate of 100 florins per 
day, the usual rate at which Rubens valued his 
works. The ceiling of the elegant cupola over 
the arch at the entrance of the choir also repre- 
sents a picture of the Assumption, by C. Schut, 
a pupil of Rubens. The cathedral is orna- 
mented by other pictures ; there are remarkable 
works by Herreins, Martyn-Pepyn, Diepen- 
beck, and Otto Venius, who was Rubens' 
master ; by Martin Vos, &c, and magnificent 
sculptures from the chisel of du Quesnoy, 
Verbruggen, &c. Over the portico there is a 
tower to which nothing can be compared for 
lightness and elegance. 

The Church of St. Jacques is a grand and 



ANTWERP. 



25 



imposing edifice, and contains a great number 
of monuments and valuable objects, which have 
by rare good fortune escaped the ravages of the 
civil wars. Few churches present the curiosity 
of the enlightened traveller with so great a 
number of pictures and sculptures ; the former 
by the most celebrated Flemish masters, among 
whom are Vandyke, Martin de Vos, Hemling, 
Frans- Flore, Otto-Venius, Seghers, and the 
latter from the chisels of Verbruggen, Wervoort, 
Willemsens, A- Quellyn, &c. But what parti- 
cularly excites interest is the chapel behind the 
grand altar, consecrated to the family of Rubens, 
and in which is seen his tomb. It is only 
marked by a large marble slab, upon which 
are engraved his arms and a long inscription ; 
but the finest ornament of this chapel is a 
picture by the great artist, in which he has 
painted his father and his two wives under the 
name of St. Jerome, Martha, and Magdalene, 
his grandfather under the figure of Time, and 
his son under that of an angel. He has repre- 
sented himself under the name of St. George ; 
and in order that every thing about the chapel 
may remind us of the great man, the altar is sur- 
mounted by a Virgin in marble, a splendid wo: k 
by du Quesnoy, brought from Italy by Rubens. 

Saint Paul, formerly the church of the 
Dominicans, the name of whom it bore, was 
founded by Henry III., duke of Brabant, in 
1246, destroyed by the lightning in 1679, and 
then rebuilt as it is at this day. A series of 15 
pictures placed along the nave on the left is 
worthy of attention ; these pictures, by cele- 
brated masters, represent the different periods 
of the life of Christ and of the Holy Virgin, from 
the Annunciation up to the Resurrection and 
to the Crowning of Mary in Heaven. The 
Flagellation, the Adoration of the Shepherds, 
by Rubens, and the Bearing of the Cross, by 
Vandyke, are remarkable masterpieces. A 
monument shown in a sort of cloister annexed 
to the church, and which is called the Calvary, 
is a singular representation of the Passion of 
Christ, the bad taste of which is, perhaps, 
owing to the distant period at which it was 
executed. It has several precious carvings. 



Saint- Charles Borromee is the old church 
of the Jesuits. It contains some fine wood- 
work, and a few pictures by Seghers, Schut, de 
Crayer, and Janssens. 

i Saint- Andre. — This church contains, be- 
sides a few fine paintings, a mausoleum of 

| marble, erected by two English ladies to the 
memory of the unfortunate Mary Queen of 
Scots ; it is ornamented with a portrait of that 
princess, the colour and expression of which 
are good. 

Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). — This edi- 
fice, built in 1560 and burnt in 1576, was 
rebuilt in its present state in 1581 : the front 
consists of several orders of architecture, raised 
above a rustic basement ; a statue of the 
Virgin has replaced, on the top of the building, 
the giant to whom was attributed the origin 
of Antwerp. In the square, surrounded by 
houses built in the Spanish style, is that which 
Charles V. used to occupy when he came to 
Antwerp. — The Town Hall contains a public 
library. 

Private Collections. — Few towns possess 
so many private collections : the inhabitants of 
Antwerp have always shown much taste for 
painting ; and it is not rare to find at the 
houses of private persons Flemish and Dutch 
paintings of the first order ; but some rich 
amateurs possess complete galleries, almost all 
of them open, with great politeness, to the 
curiosity of strangers. 

Port The port and docks of Antwerp 

were formed by Napoleon; in 1806 two mag- 
nificent docks of freestone, able to contain the 
one 12, and the other 40 vessels of the line, 
were terminated ; a military arsenal and dock- 
yards, for the construction of ships of the line, 
were opened, and warehouses and barracks 
constructed. 

Citadel. — Built by the Spaniards in 1568 ; 
the fortifications of this town have undergone 
several alterations : but the different bastions 
still bear names which prove their origin ; the 
citadel is divided from the Scheldt by a small 
dam, in which there is a sluice, which allows of 
the ditches being filled with water, at a mo- 



26 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



ment's notice. On the left bank of the Scheldt, 
and almost opposite to the citadel, is the fort 
called the Tete de Flandre, which is in the 
commune of Zvvyndrecht. A steam-boat crosses 
several times a-day from Antwerp. 

Celebrated Men. — A number of illustrious 
persons, almost all painters, were born at Ant- 
werp : Calvaert (Denis), born 1565, died 1619. 
— Crayer (Gaspard de), died in 1669. — Rubens 
(Peter Paul), whose parents were both from 
Antwerp, but who was born at Cologne, 
June 29. 1577, and died May 30. 1640, at 
Antwerp, where he had always resided. — Jor- 
diens (James), born 1593, died 1678. — Teniers 
(David), born 1610, died 1694. — Vandyke 



(Antony), the most celebrated of Rubens's 
pupils, and often equal to his master ; born 

1599, died 1641 Gramaye (John Baptist), 

the historiographer of the Low- Countries, died 
1635. — Engelgrave (Henry), a learned jesuit, 
born 1610. — Edelinck (Gerard), a celebrated 
engraver, born 1649, died 1707. — Matsys 
(Quentin), called the Farrier of Antwerp, on 
account of his first profession of a farrier or 
blacksmith, died at Antwerp in 1529, aged 79. 
— Sadeler (Giles), an engraver, born 1570, died 
1629 Snyders (Francis), a painter and en- 
graver, celebrated for his pictures of fruits, 
and particularly of animals, born 1587, died 
1657. 



BELGIAN RAILROADS. 



27 




THE RAILROAD TRIP. BRUSSELS. A MORNING AT WATERLOO. 

When the Traveller turns his back upon the fortifications of Antwerp on his 
way to the train, he quickly discovers the peculiarities of the Belgian railroads. 
The low fares, the signals by trumpet instead of bell, the military look of the 
servants, the smallness and slightness of the carriages, remind him that he is not 
in England. He soon finds, too, how admirably adapted Belgium is for railroads, 
its level surface superseding all necessity for cuttings, tunnels or viaducts; whilst 
the works having been taken up by the government with a view to the general 
improvement of the country, instead of by a private company for the purposes of 
individual profit, the lines have all been laid down on a wise and uniform system, 
and the host of expenses which clog the first movements of a projected railroad in 
England have been saved.* No scheming attorneys, no voracious counsel, no 

* The Acts of Parliament for the London and Birmingham Railway cost 72,000/. ; the value 
of the land and compensations amounted to 706,1 52/. ; and the law charges, engineering, and other 
preliminary expenses, were 67,893/. ; so that the total charges, before commencing the works, were 
httle short of one million sterling. On the Great Western line, the expenses, before obtaining the 
Act, were 89,000/., and the parliamentary charges figure in the accounts at 29,104/. 



28 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



land-jobbers seeking to be bribed, in fact none of the enormous charges incurred 
in England before a single rail can be laid. The engineers had a carte blanche 
to do what was wisest ; and accordingly Belgium is intersected with lines having 
no incubus of debt upon them, and consequently ready to carry the traveller on 
his way at less than half the price charged in England. The fares by the third- 
class carriages are indeed so low, that the labouring population of the country are 
able to pay for a journey to market without inconvenience, even from their small 
wages. The cost per mile of the Belgian lines, including the compensation for 
land and all other charges, was 16,206/. per mile ; the cost of the London and 
Birmingham line was 48,000/. per mile ! All the lines pass a common centre out- 
side the town of Malines, to which every train runs ; and consequently every 
passenger must pass this point. 

The country from Antwerp to Brussels affords a good idea of Belgium in 
general. Its level surface presents, in rapid succession, rich meadows, luxuriant 
corn-fields, green hedge-rows, with occasional patches of woodland. The smallness 
of the fields tells amongst how many hands the land is divided, and prepares us 
for the fact, that East Flanders is the most thickly-peopled corner of Europe. 

The exception to this general character of the 
scenery is found in the valley of the Meuse, 
where the fruitful serenity of fertile meadows 
and pastoral hamlets is varied by bolder, more 
irregular, and more striking natural features. 

Hills and rocks, bluff head- 
lands and winding valleys, 
with beautiful stretches of 
river scenery, give a charm to 
the landscape which Belgium 
in general does not display. 

But let us turn from facts 
and figures to the moving 
panorama before us. In rapid 
succession we pass various 
points worthy of notice. First 
comes Berchem — the head- 
quarters of the French when 
they besieged Antwerp in 
1832, and the spot where the 
Count de Merode, whose mo- 
nument we shall see in Brus- 
sels Cathedral, fell mortally 




MALINES. 



29 



wounded when pursuing the retreating Dutch in the revolution of 1830. On 
our right is Vieux-Dieu, so named from its having been the resting-place of a 
pagan idol, which, before Christianity shed its light upon the land, was here 
worshipped by thousands of the ancient Belgse. Cantich station announces 
that we are half way to Malines ; and the next point of importance is Duffel, 
on the river Nethe, which boasts the fine old Gothic castle of Ter-elst. 

Malines, where we soon find ourselves, has many associations for the English- 
man. It reminds him of Sterne and his Maria ; of the Duke of Marlborough, 
who was the first to take military possession of this town, which he did in 1704, 
and so deprived it of the name it bore before that time of La Pucelle ; whilst 
to the lady-traveller it speaks of Mechlin lace. 

The tower of the Cathedral of Malines is a fine object ; and the lover of painting, 
if he makes time to visit the building, will find within it the finest of Vandyke's 
pictures — Christ crucified between Tivo Thieves. The Church of St. John, not far 
from the Cathedral, boasts the favourite, if not the most perfect, composition of 
Rubens. That Master set great value on the paintings in this church, which com- 
prise the Worship of the Magi, with two painted shutters or wings, and three 
other small pictures. " To see my best works," Rubens used to say, " you must 
go to St. John of Mechlin." His autograph receipt is still in the vestry, with the 
date of March 12th, 1624 : it is for 1800 florins for eight paintings, completed, 
it is said, in eighteen days, and valued at his usual rate. 

The trumpet soon gives the signal, and Mechlin is behind us as we leave the 
province of Antwerp to enter that of Brabant. Vilvorde is the largest place we 
pass ; but the most interesting points are indicated by the steeples of Elewyt 
and Perck — small rural places, made illustrious by the abode of Rubens and 
Teniers. Rubens lived in the old castle of Steen, near Elewyt, and painted 

in its rural retreat many of his best 
landscapes. Teniers had a country 
house at Perck, called the " Three 
Towers" — Dry Toren. The train 
stops at Vilvorde, where, just three 
centuries ago, William Tyndale, a na- 
tive of Gloucestershire, the translator 
of the first English version of the 
New Testament, was strangled at the 
stake as a heretic for rendering the 
Scriptures into " a vulgar tongue." 
A pious and learned divine, with 
great gentleness of heart, but greater 
firmness of purpose, he was driven 




30 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



from his quiet home in the West 
of England by the impending 
storm of persecution, and finding 
that his personal liberty was in 
danger, he took ship, and visited 
Luther. His translation was com- 
pleted and printed at Wittem- 
berg, and, in spite of the dangers 
incurred, it circulated widely 
through England. This success 
aggravated the former anger of 
Henry the Eighth and Sir Thomas 
More, and the Chancellor de- 
nounced the absent divine in the 
most virulent terms. The ex- 



isting epistles of the after- 
wards beheaded minister 
display a rancour of feeling 
but little creditable to his 
memory. Great pains were 
taken to lure Tyndale back 
to his native country, but 
he was too wary to trust 
specious promises, or hollow 
professions for his welfare. 
Not so his fellow exile 
John Frith, who, in sim- 
plicity of spirit, thought the 
word of a king when backed 
by that of a Chancellor 




HOTEL DE VILLE, BRTJSSS LS 



might be relied on. He accepted More's invitation to England — and was burnt. 
Tyndale, however, with all his talent, his piety, his learning, and pure heartedness, 
was no match for his bigoted enemies. An agent from Henry entrapped him 



BRUSSELS. 



31 



at Antwerp : an accusation of heresy was easily believed when a king and 
his minister were witnesses, and the translator of the earliest English version 
of the New Testament, — a version largely used in the preparation of our 
authorized edition of the Bible, — died by the hands of the executioner at Vil- 
vorde. His last words were, " The Lord open the eyes of the King of England." 
His body was afterwards burnt at a stake on the spot where the huge prison 
now stands — a building which the traveller can scarcely fail to notice, and 
which is conducted according to the latest theories of the art of ingeniously tor- 
menting by solitary confinement and eternal silence. As we approach Brussels, 
we see on the right the palace Laeken, the out-of-town residence of the King, 
and memorable as the house in which Napoleon wrought his own ruin by plan- 
ning his disastrous campaign of Russia. It was there he signed the declaration 
of war against the Czar, and there enjoyed the society of Maria Theresa, the 
successor of the amiable, the talented, but deserted Josephine. 

Are not these scenes and these facts, and the reflections they call up, enough to 
amuse pleasantly the seventy-five minutes occupied by the railroad journey from 
Antwerp to Brussels? — where we now are. 

Brussels is a double city. The upper town, with its Park, its Palaces, its 
Grande Place, its trees, statues, fountains, broad, handsome promenades, gay, 
careless population, is, indeed, a " little Paris." Walk down the steep Montague 
de la Cour, and, as you descend, you will find yourself step by step approaching 
another and a different city. A short way down the hill, three minutes' walk 
to the right, stands the Cathedral of Saint Gudule — a fine monument of the 
middle ages ; still lower down, on the left, is the Hotel de Ville, in its square of 
tall, gable-fronted, highly-decorated Spanish houses. 

On the hill top, five minutes since, you fancied yourself in Paris — for language, 
costume, shops, manner, all were French ; at the hill foot, it is quite certain we 
are in Flanders. The markets are all here ; and the peasant women bring, with 
their fruit, the faces, forms, and costume of the country. In the high town, if you 
spoke Flemish, you would be answered in French ; here, if you speak French, you 
are answered in Flemish. Standing on one of the bridges which cross the river of 
Brussels — the narrow, dirty, and unnavigable Senne — you may fancy yourself in 
a by-street in Ghent or Bruges. The same broad, coarse-featured women ; the 
same full-bodied, slow-moving men ; the same wooden shoes, and occasional 
long-eared caps ; the same tall, quaint houses, lumbering carts, and almost the same 
air of antiquity and decay which now reigns in those once rich and all-powerful 
cities. With the permanent resident, French Brussels soon becomes the favourite ; 
to the passing visitor, Flemish Brussels must ever be the most interesting. The 
square in which the Hotel de Ville stands is certainly the most perfect instance 
of a large mass of Gothic buildings existing in our time, in the precise aspect they 



32 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



displayed when Charles the Fifth of Spain ruled the destinies of the people of this 
part of Europe. It was in the centre of this square that the blood of the Counts 
Eginont and Horn was shed by command of the cruel Duke Alva, who stood, it is 
said, at one of the neighbouring windows, to see the blood of his victims stain the 
scaffold. It was in this square also that the Ball was held at which the Duke of 
Wellington and his officers were dancing when the news came that Napoleon 
was ready for the affray at Waterloo. Byron has pinned the incident upon the 
skirt of Fame. 

" There was a sound of revelry by night, 

And Belgium's capital had gather'd then 

Her beauty and her Chivalry, and bright 

The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ; 

A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when 

Music arose with its*voluptuous swell, 

Soft eyes look'd love to eyes which spake again, 

And all went merry as a marriage bell : 
But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell 1 

" Did ye not hear it? — No ; 'twas but the wind, 

Or the car rattling o'er the stony street : 

On with the dance ! let joy be unconfin'd ; 

No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet 

To chase the glowing hours with flying feet — 

But, hark ! — that heavy sound breaks in once more, 

As if the clouds its echo would repeat ! 

And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before ! 
Arm I arm ! it is — it is — the cannon's op'ning roar ! 

" Within a window'd niche of that high hall 

Sate Brunswick's fated chieftain; he did hear 

That sound the first amidst the festival, 

And caught its tone, with Death's prophetic ear, 

And when they smil'd, because he deem'd it near ; 

His heart more truly knew that peal too well, 

Which stretch'd his father on a bloody bier ; 

And rous'd the vengeance blood alone could quell ; 
He rush'd into the field, and, foremost fighting, fell. 

" Ah ! then and there was hurrying to and fro ; 
And gathering tears, and tremblings of distress, 
And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago 
Blush'd at the praise of their own loveliness: 



THE CATHEDRAL OF BRUSSELS. 



33 



And there were sudden partings, such as press 
The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs 
"Which ne'er might be repeated ; who could guess 
If ever more should meet those mutual eyes, 
Since upon nights so sweet such awful morn could rise ? 

" And there was mounting in hot haste : the steed, 

The must'ring squadron, and the clatt'ring car, 

Went pouring forward with impetuous speed, 

And swiftly forming in the ranks of war, 

And the deep thunder peal on peal afar, 

And near, the beat of the alarming drum, 

Rous'd up the soldier ere the morning star ; 

While throng'd the citizens with terror dumb, 
Or whispering with white lips — " The foe ! They come ! they come !" 

More interesting still, in one of the chief"* chambers of the Hotel de Ville, a 
tapestried room is still open to the traveller, in which Charles the Fifth abdicated 
his throne ; willingly resigning, by one great mental effort, an amount of power 
often sought, but seldom gained by one man. 

The inscription on the old building opposite the Town Hall, in large golden 
letters — " A peste, fame, et hello libera nos, Maria pacis /" — is said to refer to a 
plague and famine which depopulated the city at the end of the fifteenth century. 

The Cathedral does not greatly interest the traveller who has just left Antwerp, 
its painted glass being the only feature it may boast of as superior to the attrac- 
tions of the churches of that city. It is, however, a very fine building ; and those 
who have the strength and the will to wind up the tortuous stairs leading to the top 
of the tower are rewarded for their pains by an extensive view of the country — 
a view, however, not equal to that presented to the eye from the summit of the 
Hotel de Ville. Like all cathedrals, this one has a patron saint in St. Gudule ; as 
the legend runs, a holy virgin daughter of a Flemish noble, born some twelve 
hundred years ago, at Vilvorde. Like all Saint Patronesses, the story of her life is 
filled with marvels too strong for the slender faith of this our later generation. 
Her holy life began as early as the age of twelve, when she subjected her 
youthful body, by nature delicate, to the penances and mortifications which form 
so prominent a part of the duty of all candidates for canonisation. Long nights 
were spent in prayer ; and when, on her way to the chapel, her lamp was extin- 
guished, it was re-lighted in answer to her supplications. Various were the 
miracles she wrought. A wild youth sought to ravish a kiss from her saintly 
lips, when a column of the church opened at her command, and received her 
within its stony protection until the abashed suitor departed. Her charity was 
unparalleled, and her Ave Marias unnumbered ; and, at her death, prayers at her 
tomb worked miracles. When the Norman invaders sacked the place, her body 



34 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



was stolen as the richest prize which the convent of Moselle could yield, and 
taken to" Liege; but half a century afterwards it was restored to Brussels. A 

brother of King Lothair of 
France, some years after- 
wards, had the temerity to 
seek sight of the saint's face ; 
but when his willing vassals 
sought to open St. Gudule's 
coffin, a thick black smoke 
came forth so rapidly that 
nothing could be seen ; and 
the affrighted prince closed 
the sepulchre, shouting 
" another miracle." Such are 
the stories of the lives of the 
Romish saints, and such the 
tales which, in the nine- 
teenth century, the Romish 
priesthood call on their flocks 
to believe — and in many 
cases they do believe them. 

High mass is a fine sight 
at all times, but it has an 
unusual magnificence in this 
cathedral. Round about the 
choir, high up, are ranged 
the heraldic shields of the 
Knights of the Golden 
Fleece, in memory of chap- 
ters of the Order held here 
by Philip the Good and by 
Charles the Fiftli ; whilst the 
nave is distinguished by 
twelve colossal statues of the 
Apostles, ranged far above 
the heads of the kneeling votaries below. The pulpit is a remarkable work, from 
the chisel of the great Flemish artist Verbruggen, the Canova of wood-carvers. 
Its subject is the Expulsion of Adam and Eve from the garden of Paradise. 




BROSciiiLS 



HEDEAL. 



8 And they heard the voice of the Lord God walking in the garden in the cool of the day : and 



WATERLOO. 35 



Adam and his wife hid themselves from the presence of the Lord God amongst the trees of the 
garden. 

9 And the Lord God called unto Adam, and said unto him, Where art thou ? 

10 And he said, I heard thy voice in the garden, and I was afraid, because I was naked; and I 
hid myself. 

11 And he said, Who told thee that thou wast naked? Hast thou eaten of the tree, whereof T 
commanded thee that thou shouldest not eat ? 

12 And the man said, The woman whom thou gavest to be with me, she gave me of the tree, 
and I did eat. 

13 And the Lord God said unto the woman, What is this that thou hast done? And the 
woman said, The serpent beguiled me, and I did eat. 

14 And the Lord God said unto the serpent, Because thou hast done this, thou art cursed 
above all cattle, and above every beast of the field ; upon thy belly shalt thou go, and dust shalt 
thou eat all the days of thy life. 

******* 

17 And unto Adam he said, Because thou hast hearkened unto the voice of thy wife, and hast 
eaten of the tree, of which I commanded thee, saying, Thou shalt not eat of it : cursed is the 
ground for thy sake ; in sorrow shalt thou eat of it all the days of thy life ; 

18 Thorns also and thistles shall it bring forth to thee; and thou shalt eat the herb of the 
field. 

19 In the sweat of thy face shalt thou eat bread, till thou return unto the ground ; for out of it 
wast thou taken : for dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return. 

******* 

23 Therefore the Lord God sent him forth from the garden of Eden, to till the ground from 
whence he was taken. 

Genesis, Chap. III. 

From Brussels itself, the attention of the Englishman is soon turned towards 
Waterloo. The field on which the destinies of Napoleon and of Europe were 
decided will always have an historical interest of its own ; but by the native of 
our " sea-girt isle," that interest must ever be felt with " thrice threefold " force. 
It flatters our national pride, to reflect that the troops of England gave the final 
and the fatal blow to the mightiest of modern conquerors, — to the self- created 
Emperor, whose power was grounded upon the ruins of the thrones of Europe : 
hence the tens of thousands of Englishmen who have visited the field, and hence 
the constant enquiry of the English at Brussels, " Have you been to Waterloo 
yet ? " Not that there is anything to see beyond a few monuments and some fine 
corn fields : but is there more at Marathon, at Thermopylae ? On a fine day the 
drive through the forest of Soignies is agreeable, and the pleasure of the trip is 
enhanced by the recollection that the ground has been well trodden by all our 
best modern poets, novelists, statesmen, and soldiers. Byron, with allowable 
licence, converts Sojgnies into Ardennes, and the beauty of the stanza would com- 
pensate a thousand such liberties taken with the dry facts of the geographer. 
After recounting the hasty departure of troops from Brussels, Childe Harold says : 



F 2 



GENE RAX VIEW OF WATEKLlO. 



•" Ardennes waves above them her green leaves, 

Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass, 

Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, 

Over the unreturning brave, — alas ! 

Ere evening to be trodden like the grass 

Which now beneath them, but above shall grow 

In its next verdure, when this fiery mass 

Of living valour, rolling on the foe 
And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low." 

Walter Scott is said to have gone through the forest breathing great guns 
against Bonaparte, whilst Southey, who was at Waterloo before either Byron or 
Sir Walter, has left us in rhyme a good guide to the field. With the Laureate's 
poetry, and Serjeant Cotton's prose, the tourist will have all he requires. The 
Serjeant, it may be well to say, is an old English soldier now living upon the field 
where he once fought, and earning an honest penny by " fighting the battle o'er 
again " for the information and amusement of all who seek his services as Guide. 
Under his guidance the Traveller should see the place occupied by the Duke as 
his Head- quarters, and should note well the points where the fight was thickest. 
The poet gives his description in a very business-like manner, and his rhymes 
with a few illustrative sketches will give a faithful and lasting impression of 
Waterloo. 



WATERLOO. 



37 




WllUSifl lOM'S HEALi-QUARlERS AT WA1KRLOO. 



" Southward from Brussels lies the field of blood, 
Some three hours' journey for a well-girt man ; 
A horseman who in haste pursued his road 
Would reach it as the second hour began. 
The way is through a forest deep and wide. 
Extending many a mile on either side. 

" No cheerful woodland this of antique trees, 

With thickets varied and with sunny glade ; 
Look where he will, the weary traveller sees 

One gloomy, thick, impenetrable shade 
Of tall straight trunks, which move before his sight, 
With interchange of lines of long green light. 

" Here, where the woods receding from the road 
Have left on either hand an open space 
For fields and gardens, and for man's abode, 

Stands Waterloo ; a little lowly place, 
Obscure till now, when it hath risen to fame, 
And given the victory its English name. 



38 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



" Behold the scene where Slaughter had full sway ! 

A mile before us lieth Mount St. John, 
The hamlet which the Highlanders that day 

Preserv'd from spoil ; yet as much farther on 
The single farm is plac'd, now known to fame, 
Which from the sacred hedge derives its name. 




HOOGOOMONT. 



" Straight onward yet for one like distance more, 
And there the house of Belle Alliance stands, 
So nam'd, I guess, by some in days of yore, 

In friendship or in wedlock joining hands : 
Little did they who call'd it thus foresee 
The place that name should hold in history ! 

" Beyond these points the fight extended not,— 
Small theatre for such a tragedy ! 
Its breadth scarce more, from eastern Papelot 

To where the groves of Hougoumont on high 
Rear in the west their venerable head, 
And cover with their shade the countless dead. 



"WATERLOO. 



39 




" But wouldsl, thou tread this celehrated ground, 
And trace with understanding eyes a scene 
Ahove all other fields of war renown'd, 

From western Hougoumont thy way hegin ; 
There was our strength on that side, and there first, 
In all its force, the storm of battle burst. 

" Strike eastward then across towards La Haye, 
The single farm : with dead the fields between 
Are lin'd, and thou wilt see upon the way 

Long wave-like dips and swells which intervene, 
Such as would breathe the war-horse, and impede, 
When that deep soil was wet, his martial speed. 

* * # * 

" "When thou hast reach'd La Haye, survey it well, 
Here was the heat and centre of the strife ; 

This point must Britain hold whate'er befell, 
And here both armies were profuse of life : 

Once it was lost, — and then a stander by 

Belike had trembled for the victory. 

# * # * 



40 



THE RHINE BOOK. 




" La Haye, bear witness ! sacred is it hight, 

And sacred is it truly from that day ; 
For never braver blood was spent in fight 

Than Britain here hath mingled with the clay. 
Set where thou wilt thy foot, thou scarce canst tread 
Here on a spot unhallow'd by the dead. 

" Here was it that the Highlanders withstood 
The tide of hostile power, receiv'd its weight 

With resolute strength, and stemm'd and turn'd the flood ; 
And fitly here, as in that Grecian strait, 

The funeral stone might say, Go, traveller, tell 

Scotland, that in our duty here we fell. 

" Still eastward from this point thy way pursue. 

There grows a single hedge along the lane, — 
No other is there far or near in view : 

The raging enemy essay'd in vain 
To pass that line, — a braver foe withstood, 
And this whole ground was moisten'd with their blood. 



WATERLOO. 



41 




VIEW OF DA H AYE SMOTE 



" Leading his gallant men as he was wont, 

The hot assailant's onset to repel, 
Advancing hat in hand, here in the front 

Of battle and of danger, Picton fell; 
Lamented Chief! than whom no braver name 
His country's annals shall consign to fame. 

# * * * 

" Hence to the high-wall'd house of Papelot, 
The battle's boundary on the left, incline ; 
Here thou seest Frischermont not far remote, 

From whence, like ministers of wrath divine, 
The Prussians issuing on the yielding foe, 
Consummated their great and total overthrow." 

The number of men engaged in the Battle of Waterloo is often a subject of dis- 
cussion, and the accounts given on the spot are generally incorrect. The zealous 
patriot sees with a magnifying glass the force opposed to his countrymen, — feeling, 
if he does not confess, that to exaggerate the power of the enemy is to heighten 
the glory of a victory, or palliate the disgrace of a defeat. Both sides have 
played with figures until the question of the comparative forces on the 18th of 
June seems to many a riddle beyond solution. The truth stands thus : — total 
strength of the English and their allies in the field during the campaign — In- 
fantry, 82,062 ; Cavalry, 14,482; Artillery, 8,166 ; Engineers and waggon train, 



42 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



1,240 : total, 105,950. This number being engaged in the operations of the war is 

the number stated by the French 
to have been present when Na- 
poleon was defeated. Not so. 
The total strength of the English 
and their allies on the 18th of 
J une, was, — Infantry, 49,608 ; 
Cavalry, 12,402 ; Artillery, 
5,645: Total, 67,655, with 156 
pieces of artillery. The French 
troops opposed to this force were 
only a part of the army which 
Napoleon then had in the cam- 
paign, and amounted to 71,947 
men, with 246 pieces of ord- 
nance. The Infantry numbered 
48,950; the cavalry 15,765; the 
artillery 7,232. Thus Napoleon 
had the best array of cavalry 
and guns; Wellington the best 

CHURCH AT WA1E1LOO 

body of infantry. About ten 
thousands of these were left to fatten the field of Waterloo. Our great mother 
received 

" into her silent womb 

Her slaughter'd creatures : horse and man they lay, 
And friend and foe, within the general tomb. 
Equal had been their lot ; one fatal day 
For all, — one labour, — and one place of rest 
They found within their common parent's breast." 




INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




DOWFR CUV 



1 Botanical Garden. 

2 Porte d'Anvers. 

3 Porte d'Allee Verte. 

4 Porte du Rivage. 

.5 Hospice des Vieillards. 

6 Church of Notre Dame Finisterre. 

7 Hospice du Pacheco. 

8 Porte de Schaerbeck. 

9 Porte de Louvain. 
10 Salle des Concerts. 
H Palais de la Nation. 

12 Cathedral. 

13 Foundling Hospital. 



Hospital. 

Chamber of Commerce. 

Theatre Royal. 

Post Office. 

Protestant Church. 

Church of St. Jean du Beguinage. 

Church of St. Catherine. 

Porte de Flandre. 

Porte de Ninove. 

Church of St. Clair. 

Church N. D. de Bon Secours. 

Church of St. Nicholas. 

H6tel de Ville. 



27 Hospifil of St. Jean. 

88 Theatre Koval du Pare. 

29 Palace of the Prince of Orange. 

50 King's Palace. 

31 Athenaeum. 

32 Church of St. Jaques. 

33 Palais des Arts et de I' Industrie. 

34 Musee des Sciences et Belles Lettres. 

35 Church N.D. des Victoires. 

36 Palais de Justice. 

57 Church Saints Jean et Etienne Minimes. 
38 Porte de Namur. 
59 Porte de Hal. 



Travellers arriving by the railroad will, on 
quitting the station, find omnibus and other 
coaches to convey them and their luggage to 
their destination. Fare \ franc. 

Hotels. 

Hotel de Bellevue, Place Royale. 

Hotel de l'Europe, Place Royale. 

Hotel de Flandre, Place Royale. 

Hotel de la Regence, near the Park, the 
Palace, the Museum, and other Public Build- 
ings. 



Hotel des Etrangers et Imperial reunis, rue 
des Fripiers. 

Hotel de Suede, rue de l'Eveque. 

Hotel Royal, Rue des Fripiers, 17., situated 
in centre of town, near the Theatre, Exchange, 
and Post Office. 

Hotel de PUnivers, by Pieron de Mayer, 
Longue Rue Neuve. The servants here speak 
English, French, German, and Dutch. 

Barnard's English Hotel, (the only one in 
Brussels,) 17. Rue de la Putterie. 



G 2 



44 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN AT BRUSSELS. 

The Town Hall daily, from 10 till 5, (gratis). 

The Cathedral and other Catholic Churches 
daily (gratis), from 5 a. m. till noon. The 
Foundling is near the Cathedral. 

The Museum (gratis), every Sunday, Monday, 
and Thursday, from 10 till 3. 

Public Library, for admission apply to the 
librarian. 

The Due d'Aremberg's Palace daily, by 
applying to the porter, and producing a pass- 
port. 

Place des Martyrs. 

The Botanical Gardens (gratis), every Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday, from 10 till 3. 

The two Houses of Parliament daily, from 
10 till 3. 

The King's Palace may be viewed during his 
Majesty's absence. 
Waterloo. 

Principal Coffee-Houses. — Mille Colonnes; 
Suisse, Place de la Monnaie; Trois Suisses, 
Rue des Princes. 

Public Baths. — Bains Leopold, Rue des 
Trois Tetes ; bains Sainte Elizabeth, petite 
Rue de VEcuyer; bains Saint Sauveur, Mon- 
tagne aux Herbes Potageres ; bains Saint 
Georges, Rue des Alexiens. 

Post Office. — General direction and prin- 
cipal letter box, Rue de l'Eveque. The latest 
delivery at a quarter past five in the evening. 

Branch Offices. — At the King's palace ; 
Montagne de la Cour, 44. ; Rue de l'Etuve, 
20. ; Rue Haute, 155. ; Rue Trenrenberg, 13. ; 
Rue de Schaerbeck, 117.; Rue de Flandres, 24. ; 
Rue des Sables, 19. The letters are taken up 
at those offices at 5 a.m. and 2 p.m. 

Hackney Coaches. — Principal stands. Place 
Royale ; Grande Place ; Place de la Monnaie ; 
Place du Sablon ; Place de la Chancellerie ; 
Place de St. Gery ; Place de Baviere ; Place 
d' Anvers ; Porte de Laeken ; Place du Samedi ; 
Place du Marche aux Grains : outside the gates 
of Schaerbeck, Namur, and Louvain. 

Price of coach fares. — Hackney coaches, per 
course, 1 franc 50 cents ; by the hour, first, 



2 francs 50 cents, each ensuing hour, 1 franc 
60 cents : vigilantes, per course, 1 franc ; by 
the hour, first, 2 francs, each ensuing hour, 1 
franc 50 cents. A subscription of 15 francs 
for 20 tickets may be taken to the Vigilantes, 
which tickets are each considered as equivalent 
to 1 franc, and taken as such in payment either 
of the hour or the ride. 

Theatres. — Royal Theatre, Place de la 
Monnaie ; it is open during the whole thea- 
trical year, every day except Saturday, for the 
performance of comedies, dramas, comic operas, 
grand operas, and ballets. Price of admittance, 
1st boxes, balcon and orchestra stalls, 5 francs ; 
galleries, 2d boxes, parquet and boxes on the 
ground floor, 3 francs 50 cents ; 3d boxes, 2 
francs 15 cents ; 4th boxes and pit, 1 franc 
60 cents. Park Theatre (Theatre du Pare), 
is open on Saturdays and Sundays for the per- 
formance of vaudevilles and varied pieces. 
Price of admittance: 1st boxes and parquet, 

3 francs 50 cents ; 2d boxes, 3 francs ; 3d 
boxes, 2 francs 15 cents ; pit, 1 franc 10 cents. 

Principal Journals of Brussels. Morn- 
ing papers, Emancipation, Moniteur Beige ; 
Independent (Morning and Evening), Beige, 
Courrier Beige, Journal dela Belgique, Journal 
du Commerce Beige. Evening papers, Obser- 
vateur, Eclair. English Paper, Brussels Ga- 
zette. Periodical Magazines: National Review, 
monthly ; Universal Review, every fortnight. 

Church of England service is performed in 
the Chapel Royal, Rue de Musee, every Sunday 
at 9 a. m. and half- past 2 afternoon, and in the 
chapel on the Boulevard de TObservatoire on 
Sunday at a quarter to 1 and half-past 3. 

The Park is open daily from 7 in the morning 
till 9 at night ; on Sundays a military band 
performs from 1 till 2 o'clock. 

The Royal Observatory is situated near the 
Schaerbeck Gate. 

The English Reading Room and Circulating 
Library, 73. Montagne de la Cour, is open 
from 8 in the morning till 8 in the evening. 

Other public Establishments, &c. — St. 
John's Hospital, Boulevard Botanique ; St. 
Peter's, rue Haute; Prison of the Petits Carmes; 



BRUSSELS. 45 



the Beguinage, near the Rue de Laeken; King's 
Palace at Laeken, the old church and church- 
yard ; the Abattoir, near the Port de Ninove ; 
the Allee Verte; and the three Theatres. 

Private Clubs. — Great Harmonic Society, 
outside the gate of Laeken ; Loyal Club, Grande 
Place ; Club, Rue Leopold ; Reading Club, 
Hotel de la Paix ; Commercial Club, Rue de 
PEveque ; Philharmonic Society, at the Cafe 
Suisse, Place de la Monnaie ; Club de PAncien 
Cercle, at the Domino, Place de la Monnaie. 
Strangers are admitted on being presented by 
a member. 

Reading Rooms. — For French books, Rue 
d'Assaut, 14. ; for English books and journals, 
Brown's Library, Montagne de la Cour ; Place 
Royale, 14: for journals only, Rue des Car- 
rieres, on the first floor. 

Passports. — Travellers are to go to the 
Minister of the Interior, Rue de la Loi, 4., for 
everything concerning their passports. The 
office is opened every day from 10 to 3 o'clock, 
and on Sundays and holidays from 10 to 12 
o'clock. The English Legation will be found 
31. Rue Ducale. 

Fairs. — There are three fairs at Brussels. 
May 1, coach and horse fair; prizes are given ; 
May 22, a small fair, which terminates June 2 ; 
October 1 8, a great fair, ends November 2. 

Exchange (Bourse). Rue de PEveque and 
Place de la Monnaie. Open every day at 12 
o'clock. 

Paper Money. — Brussels has two banks, 
the Banque de Belgique, and the General So- 
ciety for the Assistance of the National Trade. 
Both these issue notes, payable at sight, which 
are everywhere taken in payment. The value 
of each of these is 1000 francs, 500 francs, 100 
francs, and 50 francs. 

Exchange Office. — Rue des Fripieres, 31. 
and 45. ; Rue de la Madeleine, 70. ; Montagne 
de la Cour, 34. 71. and 94. 

Horse- Races. — There are two races every 
year, which attract a great number of strangers. 
They take place in the plain of Monplaisir 
during the Kermesse, and during the Sep- 
tember festivals. 



Public Festivals (Fetes). — The Fetes of 
Brussels, which are attended by a great number 
of persons, are those of the Kermesse, which 
are celebrated in July, and the anniversary of 
the revolution of 1830, September 25, 26, and 
27. 

History. — Brussels stands in the province 
of S. Brabant, in 50° 50' N. Lat. and 4° 22' E. 
Long, stands on the Senne, a trifling stream. 
Brussels is but a small city, measuring about 
one mile and a quarter in length by one mile 
in breadth ; stands on one side of a hill, which 
gives it a fine appearance when seen from the 
west. Its origin is dated as far back as the 
seventh century. It has been subject at various 
times to the destructive consequences of war, 
fire, and the plague. In 1213 taken by the 
English; in 1326 and in 1405 it was nearly 
destroyed by fire; in 1314 it was visited by 
plague, when the inhabitants died so fast that 
sixty people were sometimes buried in one 
grave; in 1488 it was surprised and taken by 
Philip of Cleves, and in the next year was 
visited by a contagious disease, which mowed 
down the inhabitants, hundreds of whom are 
said to have died in the streets ; in 1578 the 
plague again came, and 27,000 people perished. 
This last visitation was hastened by the misery 
induced in the city through the tyranny of the 
Duke of Alva, who had previously by his 
cruelty driven out of Belgium her most skilful 
artizans to carry their valuable manufactures to 
other countries. In 1695 Marshal Villeroi 
bombarded Brussels, destroying more than 
4000 buildings. The Elector of Bavaria be- 
sieged it in 1708 ; but this time it escaped by 
the help of our Duke of Marlborough. In 1746 
Marshal Saxe laid the city under heavy con- 
tributions. The last great fight in its neigh- 
bourhood was that of Waterloo, June, 1815, 
unless we take into account the contest during 
the Revolution in 1830, when Belgium was 
severed from Holland, and became a separate 
kingdom. 

Town-Hall (Hotel de Ville). — This is a 
large and majestic edifice, situated in one of 
the finest squares cf Brussels. This building 



46 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



was finished in 1441 ; in the front rises a tower 
364 feet high ; it is tapering and fluted along 
its whole length ; it is surmounted by a colossal 
brass-gilt statue of St. Michael, the patron of 
the town, turning with the least wind, and 17 
feet high. It was in the great room of the 
Town Hall, called the Gothic room, that 
Charles V. signed, September 7, 1 556, a deed 
of abdication in favour of his son Philip. The 
other rooms are remarkable for the tapestry 
with which they are hung, for their numerous 
pictures, and the richness of the ceilings. 

Cathedral of St. Gudule. This is a 
Gothic edifice, built on the slope of a hill 
formerly called Molenberg. The foundation 
of this church was laid in 1010. It was first 
consecrated to St. Michael, and afterwards to 
St. Gudule, when the body of the latter saint 
was transferred to it from the chapel of St. 
Gery, in 1047. Since that period it has always 
been named the Church of Sts. Michael and 
Gudule. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, 
held the first chapter of the Golden Fleece in 
this church, in the year 1226, when it was re- 
built. St. Gudule has no remarkable pictures. 
Its lions are the fine painted glass of its chapels; 
the tombs which ornament the two sides of the 
sanctuary ; the mausoleum of Count Frederick 
de Merode, killed in 1830 among the Belgian 
combatants ; the colossal statues, supported 
against the pillars which sustain the vault, and 
the pulpit, representing Adam and Eve driven 
from Paradise, by Verbruggen. 

Church of the Sablon, or Notre Dame 
des Victoires, built by Duke John L, in 1288, 
in commemoration of the Battle of Woeringen. 
The monument of the Princes de la Tour and 
Taxis, in the Chapel of St. Ursula, is remark- 
able. There are three pictures worth seeing if 
time permits : the Martyrdom of St. Barbe, by 
Quellyn ; Christ on the Cross, by De Declerek, 
and the Last Judgment, by Frans Flore. The 
French poet, Jean Baptiste Rousseau, is interred 
in this church. He died at Genette, near 
Brussels, March 17. 1741. 

The traveller who stays long enough in 
Brussels may visit its other churches. The 



Church of N. D. de la Chapelle contains, be- 
sides several statues by the celebrated chisel of 
Du Quesnoy and of Fayd'Herbe, a picture 
which is a masterpiece by G. de Crayer, Jesus 
appearing to Mary Magdalene. The church 
of St. Nicholas, Rue au Beurre ; Ste. Catherine, 
in the street of that name ; N. D. du Finistere, 
Longue Rue Neuve, (this latter church is 
named from the inscription over the portico, 
" Laus tua in fines terrae,") ; Saint John the 
Baptist, have each some good pictures. At 
Saint Catherine, besides a fine painting by 
G. de Crayer, placed on the grand altar, there 
is a Christ at the Tomb, by Otto Venius, 
Rubens's master. The church of St. Jacques 
du Caudenberg, Place Royale, is a modern 
monument, which, during the revolutionary 
period, had become the Temple of Reason. 
This church has replaced the abbey of the 
same name, where the jesuit Bollandus, and 
his successors under the name of Bollandists, 
had devoted their vigils to the immense work 
known under the name of Acta Sanctorum. 

Palace of the Fine Arts. — The oldest 
part of this building was formerly the residence 
of the governors-general. It was commenced 
in 1346, and only finished in 1502 ; Prince 
Charles of Lorraine beautified it in 1744. Near 
the old building rises the Palace of Industry 
(Palais de lTndustrie), constructed on the site 
of the old botanical garden. This is used 
every four years for the exhibition of the pro- 
ducts of industry. Several rooms are occupied 
by the conservatory of arts and trades. The 
old palace contains the Public Library, the 
Gallery of Paintings, the Gallery of Natural 
History, and a Cabinet of Natural Philoso- 
phy- 

The Library (Bibliotheque) is open every 
day to the public, from 10 to 2 o'clock, except 
on Wednesdays and holidays. It contains 
150,000 printed volumes, and 16,000 manu- 
scripts, some of which are adorned with valu- 
able miniatures. This library belongs to the 
town. Since some years a Royal Library has 
been founded in one of the wings of the Palace 
of Industry, which is open to readers every day 



BRUSSELS. 



47 



except Sundays and holidays, from 10 to 3 
o'clock. 

The Gallery of Paintings (Musee) contains 
about 350 paintings, many of which are very 
inferior ; but the collection of Gothic paintings 
contains several very valuable ones. The aca- 
demy of Brussels holds its sittings at the Musee. 

The Cabinet of Natural History, a new esta- 
blishment, which has had but a few years' ex- 
istence, is already one of the richest in Europe. 

The Cabinet of Natural Philosophy, consist- 
ing of the instruments belonging to the old 
University of Louvain, and since enriched with 
new and numerous acquisitions, is now sufficient 
for any experiments. 

The Gallery of Paintings, the Galleries, and 
the Cabinet are open (as before stated) to the 
public every Sunday, Monday, and Thursday, 
from 10 to 4 o'clock, and to foreigners every 
day, by applying to the porter. 

Brussels is embellished by numerous Squares : 
the principal are, — the Place Royale, in the high- 
est part of the town ; it is one of the finest in 
Europe : the Grande Place, on which stands 
the Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). When 
Count d'Egmont and Count Horn were exe- 
cuted here, June 5. 1568, the whole of this 
square was hung with black. The Place de la 
Monnaie, which is adorned by the Royal The- 
atre, and that of the Martyrs, formerly called 
Place St. Michael. 

The Place des Martyrs must be visited, and 
its novel mode of paying a compliment to those 
slain during the revolution will strike the 
Englishman as being something peculiarly 
French. The statue of Liberty rises up from 
the centre of a huge vault into which the visitor 
descends, to find inscribed upon the marble walls, 
in letters of gold, the names and places of birth 
of those who fell in the struggle of September, 
1830. 

The Boulevards which surround Brussels, 
and are adorned with rich mansions and hotels, 
are not among the least embellishments of the 
town, which has besides that two other pro- 
menades truly worthy of a capital, the Park, 
and the Allee Verte. 



The Park* is a large and beautiful garden 
ornamented with clumps of trees and statues, 
and is situated opposite to the King's palace, 
in the midst of fine streets : it is to Brussels 
what the garden of the Tuileries is to Paris. 
In the Park, on Sundays, during the fine sea- 
son, a military band plays, with superior exe- 
cution, pieces of music which attract a great 
concourse of promenaders. 

The Allee Verte, planted with several rows 
of trees, runs along the canal of Willebrock to 
the length of more than a quarter of a league 
in a straight line. Though a little out of 
fashion, it is still, in fine weather, numerously 
attended by persons in carriages, on horseback, 
and on foot. It is the Champs Elysees of 
Brussels. 

The Botanical Garden, the entrance to 
which is in the Rue Royale exterieure, outside 
the Porte de Schaerbeck, is on the Boulevard 
Botanique. This recent establishment already 
rivals every other of the sort by the beauty of 
the buildings and hot-houses, and the richness 
of its plantations. In summer the public is 
admitted into the Gardens on Tuesdays, Thurs- 
days, and Saturdays, from 10 to 3 o'clock, and 
into the hot-houses every day on payment of 
30 centimes for each person. 

" The origin of this establishment was owing 
to a sarcasm. At a sale of flowers in 1826, a 
shrub of so great price was produced, that no 
single amateur was willing or able to become the 
purchaser ; and a person in the crowd suggested 
the propriety of obtaining it for the Botanic 
Gardens of Brussels. The hit told ; a subscrip- 
tion was opened on the spot, and the garden 
was laid out. An annual sum of 6000 florins 
is granted by government to its support ; and 
a like sum by the city. The Royal Society of 
Horticulture, who are the proprietors, have 
themselves a capital of 200,000 florins, in 400 
shares of 500 florins each. In the care and dis- 
position of the garden a scrupulous attention is 

* In the Rue Royale, opposite'one of the side entrances 
to the park, is the statue of General Belliard, the French 
ambassador to Belgium, who died at Brussels, Jan. 28. 
1832. 



48 THE RHINE BOOK. 



paid to scientific arrangement ; and students 
have ready access at all times to the examination 
of its contents. Both the scientific and vulgar 
names are attached to every plant, and gene- 
rally that of the country of which it is a native. 
A circular piece of ground is divided into 
small parterres, in which the Linnasan classifi- 
cation is fully exemplified ; and several small 
ponds are appropriated to the nurture of aqua- 
tic productions. The conservatory, which is 
heated by steam, is 400 feet long, with a rotunda 
in the centre, for the exposition of flowers ; 
and at each end is an elegant portico, from 
which there is a good view of the town." — 
[ Trollope's Belgium since the Revolution. ] 

Brussels has no remarkable fountains ; but 
that of the Maneken Pis cannot be passed 
without notice on account of its singularity. 
It is placed at the corner of the Rue de l'Etuve 
and Rue du Chene, and consists of a small 
bronze figure. 

The Mannekin is one of the lions of Brus- 
sels. It is a small statue adapted to the pur- 
poses of a fountain. Legacies have been left to 
Mannekin, and on festival days the little figure 
is dressed up as a beau of the first water. 
Charles the Fifth made him presents, Louis 
the Fourteenth knighted him, and Peter the 
Great paid him a visit, and gave him a pen- 
sion. 

Private Collections. — The inhabitants 
having in general a taste for painting and for 
the arts, few towns can offer to amateurs such 
rich private collections, which the possessors 
are extremely kind in showing to strangers. 
We mention the principal : 

1. The Gallery of the Duke of Aremberg, 
consisting nearly all of Flemish pictures, and 
which is now increased by the addition of the 
fine collection belonging to the late Prince 
Augustus of Aremberg. 

2. The Gallery of His Highness the Prince de 
Ligne, consisting of modern paintings. There 
is an admirable collection of ancient pictures at 
his mansion of Beloeil. 

3. The collection of M. Malek de Werten- 
feld, Rue de la Reine, 40. Faubourg dTxelles, 



formed of choice pieces, and to which is joined 
a fine collection of curiosities. 

4. The Collection belonging to Colonel Bire, 
Rue Ducale, which consists of Dutch paintings. 

5. The Gallery of M. Van Becelaere, the 
proprietor of the Cafe des Milles Colonnes, 
Place de la Monnaie. 

6. M. Robyns, Rue Neuve, has a collec- 
tion of insects, and especially some of the rarest 
butterflies in the world. 

The King's Palace is a large building, the 
exterior of which is only remarkable for its 
simplicity. The interior is richly decorated. 
Under the French dominion, this palace, the 
extent of which was less than it is now, was the 
Hotel of the Prefecture. Napoleon and the 
Empress Josephine lodged there in 1807, and 
Maria Louisa in 181 1. 

Palace of the Prince of Orange. This 
is the prince's private property, and one of the 
buildings which strangers usually visit. The 
valuable pictures, and other rare and precious 
articles which ornamented it, have been re- 
moved. 

National Palace (Palais de la Nation), 
Rue de la Loi. — Maria Theresa had it con- 
structed for the sittings of the old council of 
Brabant. It is now occupied by the senate, 
and by the Chamber of Representatives. Its 
front, which is surmounted by a basso-relievo 
from the chisel of Godecharles, is not deficient 
in elegance. Spectators are admitted without 
a ticket into the public galleries of both cham- 
bers. 

Charitable Institutions are numerous at 
Brussels. We shall mention, among the most 
important, the Great Asylum for Old People, 
on the square of the old Beguinage ; the Ge- 
neral Civil Hospital, near the gate of Hal, for- 
merly founded for the Crusaders who returned 
wounded from the Holy Land, and for lepers ; 
it is now used for the treatment of dangerous 
diseases ; and the Hospital of St. John, Rue 
de PHopital, which will be transferred to a 
magnificent building which is in progress of 
erection upon the Boulevard Botanique. 

Celebrated Men. — Brussels is the country 



THE EXCURSION TO WATERLOO. 



49 



of several distinguished characters, among whom 
we find: — Champagne (Philippe), a painter, born 
in 1602, died in 1674. — Ligne ( Charles Joseph 
Prince de), as illustrious for his birth as for 
his chivalric grace, his intrepid courage, the 
sharpness of his wit, and the gaiety of his tem- 
per ; born, 1735, died, 1814. — Vesalius, one 
of the greatest anatomists, born in 1514, died 
of hunger after a tempest which threw him on 
the coast of Zante, in 1 564. — Vandermeulen 
(Antoine Francis), the celebrated painter of 
battle pieces, born in 1634. — Quesnoy (Fran- 
cois du) an illustrious sculptor, born at Brus- 
sels in 1592, died at Leghorn in 1644; his 
works adorn the greater part of the churches 
of Belgium. — Camargo (Marie Anne Cupis 



de), a celebrated dancer, born in 1710, died in 
1770. 



The Manufactures of Brussels are not very 
extensive : carpets and tapestries are no longer 
staple commodities. Lace is, however, manu- 
factured in considerable quantities, and there 
are several large printing establishments, some of 
which, before the passing of the English Copy- 
right Act, were kept very busy by the publi- 
cation of pirated editions of new English books. 

The Population of Brussels is calculated to 
be upwards of 1 80,000 ; but is liable to fluctua- 
tion according to the season ; the English resi- 
dents are very numerous, and occupy most ol 
the best houses. 




THE EXCURSION TO WATERLOO. 

A diligence starts for La Haye Sainte every 
morning at 7 o'clock and every afternoon at 5 
o'clock, from the Couronne d'Espagne, in the 
Vieille Halle au Ble; at 3 o'clock in the after- 
noon from the Hotel de la Cloche, in the 
March^-aux-Herbes; and at 4 o'clock from the 
Cour de France, in the Rue des Pierres, at the 
back of the Town Hall. In starting by the first 
you may return in time for the Theatre ; price 
of each person going one franc and a half, and 



returning the same; a party of four persons 
pay something less in proportion. 

A horse and gig for 10 francs, or a saddle 
horse for 8 francs, may be hired of Mr. Copper, 
an Englishman; adjoining the Prince of 
Orange's Palace. 

A carriage may be had from the stand for 20 
francs, including every expense of turnpikes, 
coachman, &c, holding six persons; but you 
must agree to be taken to La Belle Alliance, the 
farthest point, or the driver will stop at Mont 



50 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



St. Jean, and give you a very long walk to arrive 
at the field. 

The original features of the ground, where 
the centre of the English line had its position, 
at the last desperate effort by the enemy, are 
entirely obliterated ; and the ridge which formed 
a part of Mont St. Jean is now levelled down 
with the rest of the plain. This was done for 
the purpose of obtaining a sufficient quantity of 
earth to form the great mound, on which the 
colossal bronze lion, which may serve either as 
the British or Belgic Lion, is supported, the 
pedestal of which bears the simple inscription, 
"June 18. 1815." The mound and the lion 
have equally been the subjects of ill-natured 
censure ; but the one containing the bones of 
friends and foes, who fell in that dreadful day, 
and the other composed of cannon taken from 
the enemy, would appear to be strictly appro- 
priate, " as being at once a memorial, a trophy, 
and a tomb." The mound is placed on the 
spot where the Prince of Orange received his 
wound. As a guide employ Serjeant Major 
Cotton, who lives on the field. He (as we have 
before said) was at the battle. 



The village of Waterloo is in the rear of the 
field, and close to the forest of Soignies. The 
trees are principally of beech, and some of thein 
very fine ; but the wood is fit for nothing but 
fuel, and is used solely for that purpose. 

If you intend to return to dinner, take some 
refreshments with you, as at La Belle Alliance 
it is difficult to procure them good, notwith- 
standing the immense number of English who 
have visited this place, and inserted their names 
in a book that they present. 

At Mont St. Jean the people are begin- 
ning to understand the English character ; a 
table-d'hote is prepared, and wine provided for 
sale. 

On returning, stop at the village of Waterloo, 
and see the monuments in the Church, and the 
tomb of the Marquis of Anglesea's leg ; return- 
ing through the sombre forest of Soignies, part 
of which is the property of His Grace the Duke 
of Wellington, conferred on him by the King of 
Holland, in remuneration of his services on the 
occasion which has this day particularly en- 
grossed our attention — [A Week at Brussels.'] 



VALLEY OP THE fciEOSB 

" What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ? 
Is this the stream, whose cities, heights, and plains, 
War's favourite playground, are with crimson stains 
Familiar, as the morn with pearly dews ? 
The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse, 
Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains 
To tend their silent boats and ringing wains, 
Or strip the bough whose mellow fruit bestrews 
The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes 
Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, 
How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade, 
With its grey locks clustering in pensive shade, 
That, shap'd like old monastic turrets, rise 

From the smooth meadow-ground, serene and still." —Wordsworth. 



BRUSSELS TO THE RHINE, BY LIEGE AND AIX LA CHAPELLE. 




hen the Traveller leaves Brussels to make his way on- 
wards to the Rhine, he finds himself retracing as far as 
Marines his previous Railway Route, and not until he has 
passed the Station at Mechlin does he find himself in an 
entirely new scene. On quitting that station, the railway describes 
a curve, and crosses the paved road leading to Louvaine. The first 
village on the left hand is that of Meusen, on the Dyle, with a church 
founded by St. Lambert. Soon afterwards on the same side the vil- 
lage of Hever is seen, and in the distance the steeple of Rymenam, a 



H 2 



52 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



commune of the province of Antwerp. A small stream is crossed, which falls 
into the Dyle, and waters the commune of Doort-Meerbeck on the right, the 
church of which, close to the railway, contains the tombs of the lords of Launoy 
and Santa Cruz. After a short stoppage at Haegt, an uninteresting place, the 
train speedily arrives at Wespelaer, a famous place of summer recreation for 
the Belgians, who throng its fine park, and laud as inimitable its jumble of 
statues, Chinese bridges, Grecian temples and monastic grottoes, where busts 
of Voltaire and Rousseau hob-nob with Homer and the Prince of Orange. 
Next, on the right, is the pointed spire of the rural village of Thildonck, and 
in the distance, on the left, the baronial tower of Eotzelaer, once the strong- 
hold of the rulers of this part of Brabant. As we near Louvaine the rail runs 
along the side of the Canal, with its triple row of poplars, whilst rising above 
the trees on the right is seen the steeple of St. Gertrude, notched like a double- 
edged saw. The train stops at Louvaine, outside the gate of Diest, — a word 
that calls to mind the beer the Belgian thinks so good and the Englishman 
declares to be execrable. 

Louvaine possesses two admirable old buildings in its TVjwn Hall and Col- 
legiate Church, both of which secure the admiration of all who look upon 
them. The lightness of the turrets, and the rich and graceful ornaments of the 
Hotel de Ville, give it a claim to be the most beautiful Gothic edifice in the 
north of Europe ; placing it in the scale of beauty far above many buildings of 
much larger dimensions. The collegiate Church of St. Peter* is also a noble 

* This is the oldest parish church in Louvaine ; it would even seem that it had been built on 
the ruins of a temple of Mars, if we are to believe the Latin verse inscribed over its portico : — 

Mars Petro cessit, pro clavibus hasta recessit. 
In 1130, the fire which destroyed the town did not spare this church, which was afterwards 
rebuilt more magnificently. According to the plan kept at the Town-Hall, there were three 
gigantic towers over the portico ; the middle was 536 feet high without counting height of the 
cross, and each of the side towers was 430 feet high. Jan. 31, 1606, a terrible whirlwind threw 
down the great tower, which, drawing along with it the two others, crushed all the houses in the 
neighbourhood; the force of the wind was so great, that the cross was found in the Dyle at some 
distance. 

The great aisle is as astonishing by the boldness as by the elegance of its architecture ; a lobby 
which is wonderfully carved, enriched with gilding, and surmounted by an immense crucifix 
which rises up to the roof, closes in the choir. In the second chapel on the right, on entering by 
the great one, is a Christ, as black as ebony, and clothed in a long red robe. According to a 
pious legend, three thieves had entered the church and were preparing to strip the altar, when 
this figure of Christ, loosening its arm from the cross, seized the brigands by the hair, and kept 
them in that position until day. 

There are at Louvaine a few establishments worthy of a large town : a botanical garden, and 
cabinet of natural history and philosophy. 



LOUVAINE. 



53 



structure, and has of course good store of carvings, tombs, pictures, and legends. 
The most noticeable of the latter is always told when the visitor looks upon the 
chapel of Magrietge — the holy spot dedicated to Margaret of Louvaine, the 
patron saint of servant-girls : — 

" Being servant at an inn where pilgrims were received, her master and 
his wife having resolved to leave their business and embrace the monastic 
state, she had also formed the same project ; the three were to enter the 
monastery next day ; some pilgrims came to beg for hospitality for that night 
only : they were received, and Margaret went to fetch some wine. She had 
scarcely stepped out, when the pilgrims (who were thieves) murdered the inn- 
keeper and his wife. Margaret at her return underwent the same fate after a 
long struggle, and her body was thrown into the Dyle. This Avas September 2. 
1225. The young woman's body, instead of following the current, ascended the 
river up to the middle of the town, surrounded by a golden glory, and, it is said, 
uttering harmonious sounds. Henry the First, Duke of Lorraine, who was at his 
castle, was a witness of this miracle. The report of it was immediately spread : 
the chapter of St. Peter, the duke and duchess, followed by their court and the 
magistrates, went in procession to fetch the remains of the saint and carried 
them to the church, where, after having embalmed and placed them in a coffin 
closed by a grating, they were placed behind the choir, a chapel which then 
opened into the street." 

After passing Louvaine the railroad begins to lose the " even tenour of its 
way," and as we near the Meuse the surface of the country becomes more and 
more irregular : tunnels, cuttings, and viaducts are now for the first time met 
with ; but what the country loses in level, it gains in beauty. 

Steam is bearing us towards the valley that called forth "Wordsworth's 
sonnet. The train whirls along by the old Abbey of Pare, standing on the right, 
where a few monks still vegetate ; by Corbeck-Loo, Luvenjoul, the square tower 
of which is visible from the carriages, and Bautersem. At Vertryck the engine 
stops for a moment ; then off again by Roosbeck, a small commune on the left, 
and then through the tunnel of Comtich (which, say the Belgians, " the train 
enters as a sword into a scabbard,") to Tirlemont*, where the steam steeds are 
watered and get their black feed of coke. 

In one of the rooms of the Town- Hall there are about a hundred pictures, the greater part by 
the first masters of the Flemish school, as Quentyn Matsys, Coxie, de Crayer, E. Quellyn, Otto 
Venius, Vandyke, and Jordaens. 

There are at Louvaine woollen, lace and oil factories ; but its principal article of trade is the 
beer made there, of which it annually sends out more than 200,000 barrels. 

* Tirlemont possesses a building which is of importance to the history of the first period of 
Christian architecture, in the church of Saint Germain, built upon the summit of an eminence 



54 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Going still towards Liege, the country becomes more and more uneven, and 
contains traces of the passage of the Romans, in shape of remnants of massive 
tombs built by them. After the small villages of Haekendover on the left, and 
Wulverson on the right, the line enters the province of Liege, and crosses the 
battle-plain of Neervinden, where the Marshal of Luxembourg beat the English 
allies in 1693, and General Dumouriez was defeated by the Austrians in 1793. 
The last victory released Belgium for the time from the French yoke. The halt 

is at Landen, the town of 
_ the founder of the family 

_^^r Bm^.,,,.:- °f Charlemagne. The 

journey from this place 
to Liege occupies nearly 
another hour, and bears 
the Traveller through a 
portion of the province of 
Limburg, and by Rosoux 
Corswaren, Berloz, Wa- 
rename, — where there is 
a church founded by the 
Templar Gauthier, — 
Longchamp, marked by 
a handsome mansion, and 
Fexhe - le - haute-clocher. 
These places are passed 
in the order in which they 
are here named. 

Liege is a small Bir- 
mingham placed in a 
beautiful valley. Tall 
chimneys, smoke, noise, 
dirt, and money, are 
mingled in the centre of 
one of the loveliest cor- 
ners of Northern Europe. 
The Meuse winds its way 

which overlooks the town. The tower is Roman, and must be mentioned as a model of that 
style. Its date is probably the ninth century. 

There are stocking, flannel, and woollen stuff" manufactories in the town ; soap boilers, and 
sugar refiners: there are also breweries which do extensive business. Its trade in corn and wool 
is likewise considerable. 




LIEGE. 



55 



between green banks and fruitful hills, as freshly and placidly as if no such 
serviceable abominations as factories were known ; whilst the busy hum of com- 
merce, and the laborious and skilful occupations of the artizan, are not less active 
or less useful for having such a scene all round about to solace and refresh the 
toil-worn. The Liegois of our day, if less turbulent, are not less spirited or 
industrious than their forefathers, who figure so strikingly in Walter Scott's 
" Quentyn Durward ; " but the Traveller who looks about the town for the 
localities described by the novelist will be disappointed in his search. He will 
find the people of the romance, but not the places. 

The streets, chimneys, and, indeed, the faces of the population, tell the secret 
whence Liege derives her riches. Time was when the place boasted but a single 
forge ; and though bucklers were heaped beside the anvil, and swords and spears 
lay waiting for repair, the blacksmith leant idly against his door-post, gazing 
idly up the hill-side. Gradually he was aware of a figure, which seemed to have 
grown into shape from a furze bush, or to have risen from behind a stone ; and as 
it descended the slope he eyed curiously the grimy face, long beard, and squat 
form of what he was half unwilling to recognise as a human being. Hobbling 
awkwardly, and shrugging his shoulders as though cold, the man came in time 
to the smithy door. 

"What! Jacques Perron — idle when work is to be done? Idle smith ! idle 
smith ! The horse lacks the bit, and the rider the spur. 

' 111 fares the hide when the buckler waits mending, 
111 fares the plough whilst the coulter lacks tending.' 

Idle smith, idle smith ! " 

" Idle enough," quoth Jacques : " I'm as idle as you are ugly ; but I can't get 
charcoal any more than you can get beauty, so I must stand still, and you be 
content with your face, though I'd fain earn a loaf and a cup full enough for 
both of us this winter morning." 

Though the strange man must have known he was horribly ugly, — that is if 
he ever went to drink of the clear bright waters of the lovely Meuse, which 
reflected in those days every lily-bell and every grass-blade which grew upon its 
banks, and gave a faithful portraiture in its cool waters of every creature that 
leant over them, — though he was certainly the most frightful creature that had 
ever met the blacksmith's sight, — it was evident enough he did not like being 
called Ugly -face. But when the honest good-natured smith spoke of earning a 
full draught for his new acquaintance as well as himself, he smacked his ugly 
lips, and twisted out a sort of smile which made him still more hideous. 

"Ah, ah!" said he, "wine's good in winter weather, wine's good in winter 
weather. Listen, listen, Jacques Perron ! listen ! listen ! Go you up the hill- 



56 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



side, — yonder, yonder!" and he pointed with a yellow finger, which seemed to 
stretch out longer and longer as the smith strained his eyes up the slope, until the 
digit looked quite as long as the tallest chimney that now smokes over Liege. 
" Listen, listen !" and he sang in a voice like the breath of a huge bellows — 

" Wine's good in winter weather : 
Up the hill-side near the heather 
Go and gather the black earth, 
It shall give your fire birth ; 

Til fares the hide when the buckler wants mending, 
111 fares the plough when the coulter wants tending. 
Go! Go!" 

" Mind my cup of wine — mind my cup of wine!" As he ended this rude 
chaunt Jacques saw the long finger run back into the shrivelled hand, as a 
telescope slips back into its case, and then the hand was wrapped up in the dingy 
garment, and with a dreadful shiver, and a chattering of teeth as loud as the 
noise of the anvils now heard on the same spot, the ugly man seemed to waft 
away round the corner of the building like a thick gust of smoke from a newly 
fed furnace. 

" Mind my cup of wine — mind my cup of wine!" rang again in the ears of the 
startled Jacques, and after running several times round his house in vain pursuit 
of the voice, he sat down on the cold anvil to scratch his head and think. 
It was quite certain he had work to do, and it was as certain as half a score 
searches could make it, that he had not a single coin in his pouch to buy char- 
coal to do it with. It was clear to him that the old man was a very strange 
creature— -he was more than half afraid to think who he might be — when in the 
midst of his cogitation he heard his three children calling out for their morning 
meal. Not a loaf had Jacques in store, and twisting his hide apron round his 
loins, he muttered, " Demon or no demon, I'll go," and strode out of the smithy 
and up the hill-side, as fast as though he feared that if he went slowly his courage 
would not carry him as far up as the heather bush which the long yellow finger 
had pointed out. 

When the young wife of Jacques came to look for her husband, she saw him 
returning with an apron full of black morsels of shining stone ; she smiled at him ; 
but when he threw them on the furnace and went to get a brand to set them 
a-light, she looked solemn enough, for she thought he had left his wits on the 
hill-top. Great was her marvel when she saw the stone burn ! But her joy was 
greater than her surprise when she heard her husband's hammer ring merrily, 
and found the wage of the smith all spared for home use, instead of being set 
aside for the charcoal-burner. That night Jacques had two full wine-cups, and 
setting them on the anvil, had scarcely said to himself — " I wonder whether He'll 



A LEGEND OF LIEGE. 



57 



come ! " when in walked the Old Man, and nodding familiarly seated himself on 
the head of the big hammer. Jacques was a bold and grateful, as well as a good- 
natured fellow, and in a few minutes he and his visitor were on excellent terms. 
No more shivering or chattering of teeth was seen or heard in the smithy that 
night. The black stones burned away merrily on the hearth, and the bright 
flames shone on the honest face of the smith, as he hob-nobbed with his com- 
panion, and looked as though he really thought the stranger as handsome as he 
certainly had been useful. He sang his best songs, and told his best stories, and 
when the wine had melted his soul, he told his new friend how dearly he loved 
his wife, and what charming dear creatures his children were. " Demon, or no 
demon," he swore the stranger was a good fellow, and though the visitor spoke 
but little, he seemed to enjoy his company very much. He laughed at the jokes, 
smiled at the songs, and once rather startled Jacques by letting out again his long 
telescope arm to pat him on his shoulder, when, with a mouth full of praises of his 
wife, a tear sparkled in his eye as he told over again how dearly he loved his 
little ones. 

Day broke before the wine was exhausted or their hearts flagged, and when 
the voice of the early cock woke the swan that tended her callow brood amongst 
the sedges of the Meuse, the Old Man departed. Jacques never saw him again 
although he often looked in all directions when he went to the hill for a supply of 
fuel ; but from that day Liege grew up in industry, riches, and power. Jacques 
had found coal, and thus became the benefactor of his native country, and the 
hero of the favourite Legend of the Liegois. 

For ages after the time of the first man who used coal in Liege, the history of 
the city was one long chronicle of exertion, struggle, oppression, cruelty, and 
strife. The people grew wealthy by their skill and industry, and as wealth gives 
leisure and independent feelings, the people groaned and grumbled under the 
yoke of their old feudal masters. AVhen the town grew into importance it was 
assigned to a priestly proprietor — a bishop in name, a noble by birth, and an abso- 
lute ruler in reality, whose only care was, to make the people as valuable to himself 
as possible. These Prince-Bishops were often boys of eighteen or twenty, who only 
assumed the titles of the church for what those titles gave them. Every worldly 
desire was gratified, and in many cases every manner of profligacy was openly 
indulged by these dignitaries. The artizans during successive generations bought 
various privileges of their bishops, as the burgesses of other cities had obtained 
them of their feudal lords, until at length the wealth and intelligence of the 
people forced upon the oligarchy a recognition of their power, if it failed to 
obtain any willing concession for their benefit. Then came the struggles which 
all European countries can parallel, but which showed themselves more distinctly 
in Flanders than any where else. The rising many fought against the elevated 



59, 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



and privileged few, and fire, bloodshed, and cruelties of all kinds, and on both 
sides, were the result. Then too came forth the burgher heroes of Liege, who, 
like their confreres of Ghent and Bruges, displayed in many noble instances 
the true martyr-spirit of the patriot. But enough of this — " 'Tis an old tale, 
and often told." 

The present Cathedral of St. Paul of Liege is but the substitute for a much 

more magnificent structure 
dedicated to St. Lambert, 
and destroyed during the 
revolutionary disorders of 
1793. St. Paul is remark- 
able for its size, but the 
church of St. James is the 
architectural glory of the 
place, and a gem it is. 
Dating its origin as far 
back as 1014, it has enjoyed 
various fortunes, and wit- 
nessed many changes. Ori- 
ginally a convent, it sub- 
sequently became an abbey, 
and narrowly escaped the 
blind destructive fury of 
the revolutionary mob that 
destroyed the Cathedral. 
The palaces of the Prince- 
Bishops can only rival it 
in interest. These two 
buildings will amuse the 
Traveller by their ap- 
pearance and associations, 
and give him food for 
thought in the changes 
which have come over them. 
The summer palace of Se- 
raing has been converted 
into a huge factory by the 
enterprise of an English 
engineer, Mr. Cockerell : 




SPA. 



59 < 



abode of the old rulers of Liege has been invaded by the chafferings of the huckster, 
the quibbles of the law, and the groans and forced labour of the criminal. 

The Englishman who has leisure may make a pilgrimage beyond the walls of 
the town to the Convent of Saint William, where he will discover the tomb of Sir 
John Mandeville, the earliest of our travellers, and the first English prose 
writer. Born at St. Alban's, in 1300, and educated in medicine, he started upon 
his travels about the time when Chaucer was in leading strings, and returned to 
England to issue his first book in prose, when the father of English poetry was 
busily tagging his earliest rhymes. Sir John travelled altogether for thirty-four 
years, chiefly in the East ; and his credulity has given rise to many a laugh at 
his expense. Side by side with truthful descriptions of what he himself saw, we 
find him recounting with equal gravity stories of what he heard, and asking for 
belief in fiery dragons, flying horses, and other such absurdities. Sir John, 
however, was learned, brave, enterprising, with a thirst of travel which no 
dangers or difficulties could overcome ; and, in all these respects, the worthy 
father of the long list of adventurers whom England has since sent forth — 
travelling and to travel. 

The ena t irons of Liege are eminently picturesque and interesting. The forest 
of the Ardennes, with its people speaking their peculiar language neither French 
nor Flemish ; the windings of the Meuse ; the many feudal remains, and the 
numerous romantic legends of the place, would afford amusement for a fortnight's 
ramble. Spa and Chaudfontaixe are two popular points of attraction, and afford, 
in addition to the charms of fine scenery, the ordinary excitement of continental 
watering-places. The chalybeate waters, and the gaming tables of Spa, have an 
European celebrity. Peter the Great spent six weeks there, as an inscription at 
the Pouhon spring bears testimony. In 1654, Charles the Second of England 
drank its waters and patronised its gaming tables, whilst waiting for the death of 
Cromwell. Kings and princes without number have since then visited its 
pleasant promenades, and hunted in the neighbouring forest, the last and most 
celebrated of them being Louis Philippe, King of the French, who, when Duke of 
Orleans, with his children, Mademoiselle Adelaide and her younger brother, 
formed a walk in the wood, near the Sauvenierc. which is still pointed out with 
pride to all visitors. It will be remembered that Madame de Genlis celebrated the 
abode of these princes in the forest of the Ardennes, in her drama entitled The 
Blind Man of Spa. 

The Springs are of course the avowed reasons for a resort to Spa ; but the 
beauty of its situation, and the charms of the surrounding scenery, are, in reality, 
more powerful attractions than its waters. These, however, are valuable. 

" The Pouhon, which was also formerly written the Pouxlion, is the most 
celebrated and most frequented of all the springs, and its waters are the most 



60 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



active. It is this water which is sent all over Europe, in bottles, under the name 
of Spa water. It keeps many years without losing its qualities. This fountain 
is in the middle of the town, and 340 metres above the level of the sea. The 
quadrangular well containing the spring is under a portico of the Tuscan order, 
built in 1820, and bearing the inscription : To the Memory of Peter the Great. 
Its general temperature is 8 degrees ; its flavour, acidulated, sharp, and chalybeate. 

" The Geronstere scarcely yields to the Pouhon in celebrity. It is situated on 
the South, and 160 metres above the level of the Pouhon, three quarters of a 
league from Spa. An excellent road, bordered with shady trees, leads to it. 
The fountain is in the middle of a wood, surrounded by pleasant walks, and 
almost in the centre of a sort of English pleasure ground. It is a charming spot ; 
the water gushes forth from a circular well cut in the rock and covered by a small 
marble dome. The water of the Geronstere is chalybeate and less acidulated 
and sharp than that of the other springs. Its temperature is 7° 55". 

" The Sauveniere and the Groosbeck are about the same height as the Geron- 
stere, and are only at the distance of three quarters of a league. A double row 
of trees overshadows the road leading from Spa to the Sauveniere, which com- 
municates with the Geronstere by a road from which there are several pretty 
views. The Sauveniere was formerly so much frequented by churchmen, that 
even now it is called the ecclesiastical fountain. A mass used to be said close 
by in a chapel called Salamanque. 

" The Sauveniere and the Groosbeck are in the midst of a wood containing the 
most delightful walks. The walk made by the hands of Louis Philippe, in 
memory of his wife's restoration to health, is here. 

" Near the spring of the Sauveniere there is a hole in the shape of a foot : it is 
called the foot of St. Remacle. Some wonderful virtues are attributed to this 
sacred vestige, if one takes care to place one's right foot into it on drinking the 
water of the spring. The water is acidulated and sharp : its flavour is more 
agreeable, and it contains less iron than that of the Pouhon. Their temperature 
is 7° 77". 

" The Tonneletis situated half a league from Spa to the N.E. of the Sauveniere 
and 70 metres above the Pouhon. The water of the Tonnelet is remarkable for 
the quantity of carbonic acid it contains. This spring takes its name from a cask 
which was originally driven into the earth, and from the bottom of which the 
water rose. 

" The Place Roy ale, surrounded with trees and situated near the hill of Annette 
and Lubin*, is the place of meeting of the most fashionable company. This place 

* Those who have read Marmontel's Moral Tales will perhaps remember that of Annette and 
Lubin. They were two poor lovers of Spa ; an Englishman built them a hut to shelter them until 
better times ; its remains were still to be seen in 1779. A Frenchman took the couple to Paris ; 



THE ARDENNES. 



61 



is near the walk called that of the Seven Hours (des sept Heures), the ancient 
trees of which entwine their leafy branches and form delightful arbours." 

A ramble in the Ardennes calls up in the mind of the Englishman the scenes 
in Shakspeare's play, where the soliloquizing Jacques talks poetry in the same 
forest, and as the traveller looks around him he finds how truly the poet's descrip- 
tion still applies to the place, 

Under the oak whose antique root peeps out 
Upon the brook that brawls along this wood. 

Has not the very spot been painted again and again by Snyder s ? The 
deerstealer of Stratford knew what a forest was, and though he never set foot out 
of England, he caught with- a poet's eye the features of a woodland solitude, and 
with a poet's power told so truly what they were, that his lines apply to all such 
scenes in all countries, and will do so through all time. 

But this neighbourhood has other attractions beyond the forest glades, the 
ruins, the legends, and the springs. There is a cascade at Coo, a grotto at 
Remouchamps, and a large and curious cave at Tilf. * 

they Avere introduced into society, taken to the theatres and public walks, and saw the history of 
their simple love played upon the stage of the Comic Opera. 

* The Cascade of Coo is situated three leagues to the south of Spa. The road which leads to 
it passes by the Geronstere, the villages of Ru and Roanne, and it rises at a height of more than 
700 metres above the level of the sea. The way to the fall is by a narrow path winding round the 
foot of steep rocks which remind us of those of Switzerland. The traveller soon reaches one of the 
finest spots which the eye can imagine. The Ambleve pours its foaming waters from a considerable 
height ; their whiteness forming a dazzling contrast with the dark green rocks upon which they 
fall. A wooden bridge of great boldness of execution is thrown across the torrent, and those who 
dare to place themselves upon it enjoy one of the most extensive and varied prospects. 

The Grotto of Remouchamps is situated three leagues S. W. of Spa, in a wild spot, and in a 
narrow valley watered by the Ambleve. The entrance to the grotto is closed by a grating. The 
keeper furnishes the visitor with clothes and lights, and enters with him into its depths. A 
splendid sight now strikes the eye ; the size of the caves, the height of the vaults, the singular 
shape of the petrifactions, the greater part of which have been named from the animals or objects 
which they resemble ; the shining substance which covers them on every side, and the astonishing 
whiteness of the stalactites, surprise and delight the spectator. 

The cave called that of the Rtiitis, which is the largest of all, is formed by immense rocks laid 
over each other ; one of the vaults is 350 feet long. 

A new grotto was discovered under the first, in 1834, by an English traveller. It is said to be 
extremely curious, but it is difficult of access, for it can only be entered by means of a rope to 
which the traveller must be fastened. 

The grotto of Remouchamps is not the only one in the country of Liege which deserves to be 
seen ; that of Tilf is not less worthy the curiosity of the lovers of natural history. 

Tilf, a small commune of 1000 inhabitants, two leagues from Liege, on the right bank of the 
Ourte, was known and frequented since a long time on account of its picturesque situation and the 



62 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Walter Scott's name is identified with the Ardennes, not only by his Wild Boar, 
painted so fearfully in Quentyn Durward, but through a ballad telling one of the 
many legends of the neighbourhood. 

£TJ)c Cottiers of Jprancfttmont. 

The Towers of Franchimont, 
Which, like an eagle's nest in air, 
Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair. 
Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, 
A mighty treasure buried lay, 
Amass'd through rapine and through wrong 
By the last lord of Franchimont. 
The iron chest is bolted hard, 
A huntsman sits, its constant guard ; 
Around his neck his horn is hung, 
His anger in his belt is slung ; 
Before his feet his bloodhounds lie, 
An' 'twere not for his gloomy eye, 
Whose withering glance no heart can brook, 
As true a huntsman doth he look, 
As bugle e'er in brake did sound, 
Or ever hallooed to a hound. 

To chase the fiend and win the prize, 
In that same dungeon ever tries 
An aged necromantic priest ; 
It is an hundred years at least 
Since 'twixt them first the strife begun, 
And neither yet has lost or won. 
And oft the conjurer's words will make 
The stubborn demon groan and quake; 
And oft the bands of iron break, 

delightful views by which it is surrounded, when, in 1837, the discovery of a large grotto, by some 
workmen who had sprung a mine, increased the attraction of this charming village. 

There are boats for those travellers who wish to make excursions above the village up the river. 

The Grotto is half the way up the bank, and its access is rather difficult. Before entering it 
the traveller must put on an especial costume which is to be had on the spot. Some tourists think 
this cave larger and more curious than that of Remouchamps ; it will be sufficient to mention that 
it is more than 600 metres in extent, that it takes three or four hours to go over it, by passages 
which must be crawled through, and among frightful precipices. 

On the rock, over the grotto, rises the castle of Brialmont, and, farther on, a hill celebrated in 
the country by a battle between the Austrians and the French, and in which the latter overthrew 
their opponents at the point of the bayonet. 



FRANCHMONT. 



63 



Or bursts one lock, that still amain 
Fast as 'tis open'd shuts again. 
Thus magic strife within the tomb 
May last until the day of doom, 
Unless th' adept shall learn to tell 
The very word that clench'd the spell, 
When Franch'mont lock'd the treasure cell. 
An hundred years are past and gone. 
And scarce three letters has he won. 

Francliimont is not very far from Spa*, and is enshrined in history as the place 
from whence issued six hundred men, who, animated by the same pure patriotism 

* Spa is a small town of the province of Liege, and of the district of Verviers, four leagues from 
the latter town and nine leagues from Liege, situated in a fine valley surrounded by green hills, 
and watered by the "Wayai, which crosses it. Population 3500 inhabitants. Post Office and 
post-horses. The origin of Spa is unknown, but it is thought that the present town was founded 
in 1327, by a farrier, who had bought some lands of Adolphe de la Mark, bishop of Liege. 

Augustino of Venice, physician to Henry VII., was the first foreigner who came here to take 
the waters. But it was only about the end of the 16th century that they considerably increased 
in renown. However, they still attracted but few persons ; and Montaigne says in his quaint 
manner, " Those of Liege wonder at the waters of Lucca, and the Tuscans do the same of those of 
Spa." However, a few illustrious foreigners came here at last; the Duke de Nevers in 1575, 
Margaret, the first wife of Henry IV., king of France, in 1577, and the celebrated Alexander 
Farnese in 1590. At the commencement of the 17th century the waters of Spa were already sent 
into France, England, and Italy. But the brilliant period of the history of Spa commenced in 
the 18th century. Peter the Great came here in 1717 ; he drank some of the water of Geronstere 
and of the Pouhon, and found such benefit from it that, on returning into his dominions, he 
expressed his gratitude in the Latin inscription engraved on a tablet of marble, which may still be 
seen at the entrance of the Pouhon. However, the fame of Spa was beginning to spread, and its 
inhabitants did nothing towards rendering its abode agreeable to strangers; it was only in 1750 
that hotels and assembly-rooms were built, and strangers soon arrived in great numbers. Such is 
the history of the town. 

Nothing can be more graceful and picturesque than the road from Liege to Chaudfontaine, 
(conveyances to Chaudfontaine start at every hour from Liege, particularly from M. Henrard's, 
who keeps the Hotel de TEurope, Place de la Comedie,) and thence to Verviers by Pepinster, 
where it turns off to Spa. It is situated in the cool valley in which the Vesdre rolls its limpid 
waters in such multiplied sinuosities that at each moment the river flows from right to left and 
from left to right. The road to Chaudfontaine, which is among green hills, interspersed with 
hamlets and country-houses, presents at every turn the most varied and interesting views. The 
railroad now being constructed from Liege to the Prussian frontiers by Verviers is in the same 
valley of the Vesdre through which the road to Chaudfontaine passes. 

Chaudfontaine is a commune of the province and district of Liege, two leagues from that town ; 
population 1000 inhabitants. It is a pretty village, surrounded by charming landscapes. 

The picturesque charms of the place, the delightful walks with which it is surrounded, and the 
efficaciousness of its waters, bring many strangers every year to Chaudfontaine ; and many come 



64 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



that led the three hundred to Thermopylae, surrendered their lives for their 
country. Liege was invested by an army forty thousand strong, led on by the 
most daring captain of the time, Charles the Bold of Burgundy. The destruction 
of the city seemed inevitable, when the men of Franchimont enlisted together to 
slay the invader or perish in the attempt. In the dead of night on the 29th of 
October, 1467 (the day, aye the hour, deserves to be remembered) the devoted 
band set out, and falling unexpectedly upon the enemy had well nigh succeeded in 
their attempt to reach the tent of Charles. But numbers won the fight : might 
triumphed over patriotism ; and the six hundred men of Franchimont died sword 
in hand doing manful battle for liberty. 

also from Liege for the mere purpose of an agreeable excursion. There are some good hotels at 
Chaudfontaine, amongst which we may mention the Hotel de Liege, which is in the midst of the 
narrow valley in which Chaudfontaine is situated. 




INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAYELLER. 




A St. Paul's Cathedral. 

B St. Jean. 

C St. Denis. 

D St. Christophe. 

E St. Jacques. 

P St. Croix. 

G St. Martin. 



O Town-house. 
P Royal College. 
Q St. Remade. 
R Phi ip's Bath. 
S Bishop's Palace. 
T Seminary. 
U St. Nicholas. 



V St. Pholien. 
X Sourds-Muets. 

Y Musical School. 
Z Draper's Hall. 

a a Hospital of Bavaria, 
b b Slaughter House, 
c c Market. 



LIEGE. 



Hotels. — Hotel du Pavilion Anglais, Place 
St. Lambert; Hotel de 1' Europe, Place de la 
Comedie ; Hotel de Londres, Place de la Co- 
medie ; Hotel de l'Aigle Noir, Rue Feronstree; 
Hotel de France, Rue du Dragon d'Or ; Hotel 
de Suede, Place de la Comedie. 

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN LIEGE. 

1. The Cathedral. 

2. The Bishop's Palace. 

3. Church of St. Jacques. 

4. The Citadel, for the view from its summit. 



Post Office. — Principal office, Place St. 
Jean ; open from 7 o'clock in the morning, to 
9 at night. 

Exchange Office. — Passage Lemonnier. 

Theatres. — Theatre Royal, Place de la 
Comedie : comedies, dramas, great operas, and 
comic operas are performed here on Sunday, 
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. 
Price of admittance: parquet and 1st boxes, 
3 fr. ; 2d boxes, 1 fr. 50 c. ; pit, 1 fr. 25 c. 
Gymnase, near St. Jacques : light pieces and 



66 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



dramas ; performs on the same days as the 
Theatre Royal. Price of admittance, 1st boxes, 
2 fr. 50 c. ; parquet and 2d boxes, 1 fr. 50 c. ; 
pit, 75 c. 

Hackney Coaches. — Vigilantes, Renais- 
santes, Leopoldines, Dames Blanches ; stations 
at every public square. Price, per course : 
1 horse, 50 c. ; 2 horses, 1 fr. : by the hour, 
the 1st, 1 fr. 50 c; the ensuing hours, each, 
1 fr. 

LIEGE, in Flemish Luyck, and in Latin 
Legia, a large and ancient town, formerly the 
capital of the principality of that name, now the 
chief town of the province, having a population 
of 65,967 inhabitants according to a recent cen- 
sus, is situated 50° 39' 22" N. lat., and 3° 1 1' 27" 
E. longitude, in a fertile and pleasant valley on 
the Maese, which crosses it, and at the conflu- 
ence of the Ourte with that river. Two hills at 
the distance of 1332 metres from each other, 
St. Walburge and the Cornillon, overhang the 
town, part of which rises as an amphitheatre on 
the side of a hill commanded by the citadel, 
which is 158 metres above the level of the sea. 
The Maese, which flows between Huy and 
Liege, widens as it approaches the latter town, 
where it divides into two arms, one of which, 
crossing part of the quarter called Outre- Meuse, 
receives the Ourte at the bridge of St. Nicolas. 
Liege appears to take its name from a small 
stream called Legia, which flows down the vil- 
lage of Ans, crosses the town by a subterranean 
passage, and falls into the Maese above the 
Pont des Arches : the common name of that 
stream is now that of Ri de Coq Fontaine. 

History. — The origin of Liege is ancient. 
In 565, St. Monulph, bishop of Tongres, going 
to the castle of Chievremont, being struck with 
the beauty of the situation, where, the legend 
says, a flaming cross had been perceived, re- 
solved to build a church there under the invo- 
cation of St. Comus and St. Damian. In the 
seventh century, St. Servais had transferred the 
see of Tongres to Maestricht; in 712 St. Hu- 
bert transferred it to Liege, and commenced the 
construction of a church in honour of St. Peter. 



Liege, which was already an important town, 
was ravaged by the Normans in 882 ; its disas- 
ters were to be repaired by Bishop Notger in 
the tenth century. His government was signal- 
ised by immense works : thinking the cathedral 
unworthy of so important a bishopric as that of 
Liege, he had it demolished; and that rebuilt 
under his orders, upon the same site, showed all 
the grandeur of his conceptions. The memory 
of this great bishop is still justly revered, and 
he is considered as the real founder of the town. 
From the thirteenth to the eighteenth centu- 
ries, the history of Liege was a tissue of dis- 
putes, disturbances, and wars between the 
inhabitants of Liege and their bishops, who 
were at the same time spiritual and temporal 
sovereigns. The reigns of Albert de Cuick, of 
John, Ferdinand, and Maximilian of Bavaria, 
were marked by long and terrible dissensions. 
The Emperor Otho IV., the Dukes of Bur- 
gundy, Philip the Good, and Charles the Rash, 
also had to punish the rebellious and turbulent 
inhabitants of Liege : we have not room to 
enter into the details of this period of civil war. 
The temporal dominion of the bishops ended at 
that of the French ; it had lasted about fourteen 
centuries, and seen ninety bishops. The Prince 
of Mean, who died archbishop of Mechlin, was 
the last bishop-prince of Liege, which is at pre- 
sent only the seat of a suffragan bishopric to 
Mechlin. 

The Town is divided into upper and lower: 
the houses of the upper part, adorned with gar- 
dens, placed as it were one above the other, have 
a delightful appearance when seen from below. 
There are eleven public squares, among which 
the Place St. Lambert, Place Verte, Place de la 
Comedie and its neighbourhood, are the most 
remarkable. The streets of Liege are in general 
so narrow, that the authorities have fixed the 
end at which several of them are to be entered 
and quitted by carriages : the high houses, by 
which they are formed, allow but little air and 
light to penetrate ; but in the new part there 
are a few spacious streets and well-built houses. 
The Ourte and the Maese, which flow through 
the town, have rendered it necessary to have 



LIEGE, 



67 



several bridges : there are thirteen, the most 
important of which is the Pont des Arches, 
which crosses the Maese at its greatest width. 

The Palace. — It was the former residence 
of the bishop-princes. Its first foundations 
were laid in 973 by Bishop Notger : it was 
burnt in 1 1 85 with part of the town, rebuilt a 
short time after, burnt anew in 1505, and re- 
built in 1508 by Evrard de la Marck, such as 
it is now. The principal front, which looks 
upon the Place St. Lambert, has an imposing 
appearance ; but the interior court and the 
back elevation are more curious. It is now 
used as a palace of justice ; it also contains the 
archives : the galleries which surround the 
court are occupied by numerous shops. 

Town Hall (Hotel de Ville). — The first 
stone was laid in 1714; the former town hall, 
built at the end of the fifteenth century, had 
been destroyed in the bombardment of 1601 by 
Marshal de Boufflers : the present building is 
regular, and has a handsome front, adorned 
with a flight of steps. 

Cathedral Church of St. Paul. — For- 
merly the cathedral, under the invocation of 
St. Lambert, rose upon the fine square of that 
name : gold and silver statues decorated its nu- 
merous chapels ; round the choir, closed by a 
fine gilt balustrade, were ranged the tombs of 
the ecclesiastical princes of Liege. St. Paul, 
made into a cathedral in 1793, was built in 968. 
The church was rebuilt in the thirteenth cen- 
tury ; the only part left of that period is the 
back of the choir ; each following century has 
added something to its architecture. A fine 
figure of Christ, in bronze, by Delcourt, an 
artist of Liege, attracts the eyes of the visitor 
as he enters the church. Several pictures are 
worthy of attention. A bust of St. Lambert, 
of silver gilt, is preserved in the treasury of this 
church ; the bones of the holy patron of Liege 
are said to be contained in it : it is a remark- 
able work of jewellery for the period, for it was 
in 1513 that Bishop Evrard de la Marck or- 
dered it to be executed. It cost seven years' 
labour, and 100,000 crowns. 

St. Jacques. — This is the wonder of Liege ; 



in fact nothing can be imagined so majestic, 
elegant, and light as this immense church. This 
master- piece was built in the year 1014. 

St. Martin. — This church was founded in 
962 by the Bishop Eracle, upon an eminence 
which overlooks the town ; it was destroyed in 
1302 in a bloody struggle between the nobility 
and the citizens, and was only rebuilt in 1542. 
The festival of the Holy Sacrament, or the Fete 
Dieu, which all the Catholic world now cele- 
brates, was celebrated for the first time in the 
I church of St. Martin. 

The Universitv, established by a royal de- 
I cree of Sept. 25. 1816, is a building on the 
banks of the Maese, on the ruins of the church 
! of the Jesuits. It contains a library consisting 
of 75,000 volumes, a collection of medals, a ca- 
| binet of natural philosophy and astronomy, a 
chemical laboratory, a mineralogical collection, 
and a cabinet of zoology, &c. &c. 

The Botanical Garden, in which the clas- 
I sification is made according to the method of 
, Jussieu, contains more than 3500 sorts, and the 
i hothouses and orangery more than 2000. Liege 
! possesses a school of arts and manufactures, an 
artillery school, a veterinary establishment, a 
royal institution for deaf and dumb persons, a 
royal conservatory of music, an academy of 
drawing, painting, sculpture, architecture, en- 
graving, and carving. 

Citadel. — The foundation was laid in 1255 
by Bishop Henri de Guildre, upon the heights 
of St. "Walburge : it was afterwards demolished 
and then rebuilt ; taken and retaken by the 
French ; and its fortifications were only rebuilt 
in 1820. The traveller should ascend to its 
summit, if it were only to enjoy the magnifi- 
cent panorama presented by Liege, the Maese, 
and its tributaries. On the right bank of the 
river is the Chartreuse, another fortress, a quar- 
ter of a league from the town. 

Commerce. — Trade is very flourishing at 
Liege : the railway which, on its way from Os- 
tend and Antwerp, goes by Liege to the fron- 
tiers of Prussia, cannot but increase the pros- 
perity of this town. It has several manufactories 
and founderies for working metals and for the 



68 



THE RHINE BOOK 



building of steam-engines ; it has also a cannon 
and zinc foundery. The manufacture of wea- 
pons is very considerable, and they are exported 
to the amount of several millions of francs 
yearly. The numerous coal mines of the pro- 
vince also form one of the most considerable 
branches of trade of the country. 



Celebrated Men. — Demarteau (Gilles), 
the inventor of engraving after the manner of 
crayons, born in 1729, died in 1776; Gretry 
(Andre Ernest Modeste), a celebrated composer, 
whose reputation has become European, born 
in 1741, died in 1812; Laicelle (Gerard de), a 
painter, born in 1640, died in 1711. 




LIEGE AND THE MEOSS 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



69 




THE CITY OP CHARLEMAGNE. — THE LEGENDS OF AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 

ROM Liege to Aix-la- Chapelle the distance, which 
is not great, is soon traversed by railway, and 
as the Rhine awaits him, the traveller will scarcely 
feel interested in the names of the unimportant places 
which the train hurries by. Verviers is the principal 
station, but all that need be said of it is, that its twenty 
thousand inhabitants are chiefly employed in the manufacture 
of cloth, much of which is used for the army. Verviers finds 
uniforms as Liege finds muskets for the Belgian troops, and, 
indeed, for the soldiers of a considerable portion of Northern Germany. 

Aix-l a- Chapelle is the city of Charlemagne — the man of his age 
— whose spirit regenerated Western Europe after the Roman empire had 
been destroyed. With almost boundless ambition, he was not a mere 
conqueror, but a statesman and legislator also, and hence his ambition was 
elevated and enlarged, and wrought out great and noble results. His was the 
task to curb within the bounds of discipline the turbulent Franks ; his the power 
to subdue for the general welfare the insubordinate vassals of an extensive 
kingdom. The founder of the German Empire, he changed tribes of lawless 
barbarians into a federation of civilised people, driving the Saracens beyond the 
Ebro, overthrowing the Longobards in Italy, and including under his rule 
Germany, the Netherlands, the Gauls, the greater part of Italy and Spain, with 
the Balearic Islands, Corsica and Sardinia. From the Ebro to the mouth of the 
Elbe, from the Atlantic to the mountains of Bohemia and the Raab, and from 
the British Channel to the Volturno, all were ruled by the head and hand that 
made its home in Aix. There did Charlemagne rest himself between his cam- 
paigns ; there he deliberated in council, and amidst its green shades thought out 
the plans for extending and cementing his empire. At Aix-la -Chapelle he 
received embassies from the Caliph of Bagdad ; there he entertained envoys from 
the Saxon kings of England, with whom he was on terms of friendship ; and there 
he endeavoured to advance literature and general enlightenment by the only means 
then known, — by the foundation of monasteries and the encouragement of the only 
learned men of those days, the priests. In fine, Aix was the scene of the most 
interesting personal and domestic episodes in the brilliant career of Charlemagne. 
At the close of a winter's evening an old and venerable-looking man was seen 



70 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



busily engaged digging a grave in a small churchyard on the banks of the Maine 
outside Frankfurt. His grizzled locks told the number of years that had passed 
over his brow ; but his frame was yet hale and vigorous, and as he cast up the earth 
from the deepening pit, two or three curious idlers stood watching his toils and 
listening to the ditty, half sung half chaunted, with which he lightened his labours. 

TO* Song of t!)e ffirafo-lMfifier. 

I delve — I delve — in the earth full deep, 

A bed for the troubled mourner's sleep ; 

And dark and lonesome, dank and dread, 

The clayey couch I smooth for the dead ; 

Yet though noisome, dark, and drear, 

No voice of complaint from The Dead I hear ; 
Each is content with his narrow room, 
The Grave gives calm till the Day of Doom. 

I've lived — long years — three score and ten, 

And I've dug the graves of a hundred men : 

A grave for the maiden, young and fair, 

A grave for the child with its flowing hair ; 

The widow'd mother in accents wild, 

Calls on me for her only child, 

But no silken sleeper so still as they 

Who seek their rest in the churchyard clay. 

I delve — I delve — and the selfsame spade 

With which the miser's grave was made 

Ere two summers their course had run, 

Shap'd a place for his spendthrift son ; 

The High and the Lowly — my spade so old 

For each has fashion'd the grave-yard mould ; 
No couch of down is from care so free 
As the bed that is made by my spade and me. 

The lookers-on still lingered about the newly-made grave, although night 
drew on apace and a chilling wind came gustily across the Maine. The city was 
full of anxiety; flying rumours of all sorts were current, and such was the 
temper of the times, that those most improbable were the most greedily 
listened to, and the most implicitly believed. Their almost worshipped Emperor 
Charlemagne was amongst them, but not of them. He mourned for the loss of 
his beautiful consort Frastrade, and no man could comfort him. For three long 
weeks had she been dead, but still the monarch would not hear death spoken of. 
She did but sleep, he said, and although her body had long given forth sufficient 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



7] 



proof that even an Empress must obey the universal destiny, " unto dust thou 
shalt return ; " although the once lovely form, full of life and blooming like an 
early rose, had been stricken with the cold, heavy, waxen hue of death ; although 
the face long famed for beauty showed the unmistakeable traces of the Destroyer, 
and was blackening to the hue of the earth, the final destiny of all flesh ; although 
the freshest flowers of the garden, and the strongest frankincense of the Eastern 
merchant were too weak to drown the most disgusting of the proofs that death 
had been there ; — still the Emperor clung to the chamber of his beloved, and would 
not abate his watchfulness " till Frastrade woke." 

Meantime the affairs of the empire were falling into confusion for want of the 
iron hand of Charlemagne. Provinces were on the eve of revolt, and foreign 
foes were mustering their forces to take advantage of the sudden madness of the 
Emperor, and the confusion of his ministers. Things were in this state when, 
worn by anxiety and thought, the chief councillor, the Archbishop of Kheinis, 
walked forth for refreshment on the banks of the Maine. It was a moonlight 
night, but gusty withal, dark clouds driving across the heavens as though one 
grotesque form chased another to see which should most quickly obscure the 
face of the luminary, and then drive onward towards the horizon. The Arch- 
bishop gazed on all this, and was within himself comparing the shadows to the 
Evil Spirit that was clouding the destiny of the Emperor, when, as he neared 
the grave-yard, the largest cloud in the heavens shut out the moon. For a 
moment all was darkness, when the huge vapour seemed to open in the midst for 
a short space, and then through the rift shot down one bright gleam of light, the 
more brilliant for the surrounding gloom. " A good omen," murmured the old man ; 
and as he gazed upon the spot where the light fell, he was gradually aware of a form 
of surpassing majesty built up of the glittering moonbeam; transparent, yet real. 
" I am the good genius of Charlemagne," said the vision, in tones like the dying 
echoes of music over a frozen lake, cold, clear, yet beautiful : " I come to teach you 
how to remove the shadow from his spirit. He sleeps ; dig where I stand a grave, 
and let the festering body of Frastrade lie in it. But mark ! ere you touch her 
corpse, search beneath her tongue, and take what you will find there." As IT 
spoke, the cloud passed from the moon, and the outlines of the Apparition expanded 
on every side until it seemed to wrap all things in a robe of glorious moonlight. 

The Archbishop of Rheims was the boldest as well as most trusty of the 
councillors, and, after a moment's thought, he hurried towards the grotesquely 
carved door which marked the abode of the gravedigger. 

" No silken sleeper so calm as they 

Who seek a couch in the churchyard clay," 

sang a voice from the low-roofed hovel, as though finishing a song. " Ay, ay," 



72 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



said the churchman, " the sexton is still a-foot, and this night will I fulfil the 
injunction so marvellously laid upon me." 

In half an hour the grave was begun, and the song of the old sexton seemed 
to help him on with his work, and in half an hour the Archbishop stood in the 
chamber of Frastrade. The corpse lay on a couch as though asleep, and the 
Emperor, exhausted by watching, slept, kneeling at the bedside, his head resting 
on one of the festering hands of his once lovely spouse. With careful foot and 
cautious hand the churchman approached the dead ; the canopy was drawn aside, 
and, half trembling, he looked curiously at the form before him. The eyes were 
open, staring with a fixed glassy look, as though to scare the living from the 
spot ; the cheeks were sunken, and the nose pinched up ; the jaw had fallen, and, 
as he peered into the open mouth, he saw that the tongue was shrunk and 
shrivelled up, exposing just one corner of a glittering gem buried beneath it. 
With hasty though nervous fingers he seized the brilliant token, and, as he moved 
it from its long -hidden socket, a loud wail, as of mortal agony, startled the silence 
of the chamber of death, and aroused the king. Hastily concealing the treasure 
within his robe, he approached the monarch, who, rising from his knees, threw 
himself, as in an ecstasy, into the Archbishop's arms. 

The spell was broken. 

Throwing a glance of horror at the remains of his wife, Charlemagne joyfully 
left the chamber, and even as he went agreed to the Councillor's arrangements 
for her burial. The stealthy grave so hastily prepared was unnecessary, for the 
king now wished the interment, and the body was borne in stately procession from 
Frankfurt to Mayence, where a tomb, still to be seen, was raised to the memory of 
Frastrade. At the Archbishop's desire, also, he took his seat in the Hall of 
Audience, and resumed the duties of his state. Once more the Empire was put 
in order, and all things went well, for the churchman had really at heart the 
welfare of his sovereign and the extension of his power, and all that he suggested 
Charlemagne obediently agreed to. All the courtiers saw with surprise that a 
new idol had taken the place of the dead Empress. Dignities and riches were 
heaped on the new possessor of the mysterious charm ; but the favours gave rise to 
less than usual envy, since he who received them dispensed them again with a 
bountiful hand, as though he sought to retain not one of the gifts so lavishly 
bestowed. Frastrade's power over Charlemagne had often led to war and 
punishment, — the Archbishop of Rheims used his influence for the honour of the 
state and the comfort of the courtiers. But the secret was irksome to its pos- 
sessor, and long he pondered how he should destroy the spell. At length, when 
the court was at Aix-la-Chapelle, he determined to rid himself of the mystic 
jewel, and choosing a dark night he left the palace, and by a well-known path 
sought a deep pool near the centre of a morass, which he had marked before as 



"relics" at aix-la-chapelle. 



suitable to his purpose from its being a spot seldom visited and not easy of access, 
and hence most suitable for concealing the gem which he determined that no man 
should find. Coming to the spot, he held the shining bauble for a moment over 
the dark still waters — loosed his hold — and down, down, down, he saw it sink, 
as though the pit was bottomless, and the gem's ray of light was unwilling to be 
quenched for ever. 

Next morning the court were surprised to find that the archbishop's influence 
was gone, and that the Emperor found no pleasure but in wandering round about 
the city alone. At length his walks were confined to one spot, a pool in the 
midst of a morass. There he would sit by the hour gazing upon the still waters, 
and after a while he built himself a home — the Castle of Frankexburg — the ruins 
of which the Traveller may yet see near Aix-la-Chapelle, and as he approaches 
the legend-haunted spot by a bridge which crosses the sedgy pool, he may peer in 
its waters, and seek what has never since been found — Frastrada's Spell. 

few years after the death of his best-loved wife, Charlemagne built 
La Chapelle, which has ever since given the city its French name ; 
and which to our time contains his tomb, or rather so much of it as 
sacrilege has left, and his epitaph of two words, " Carolo Magno." 
He died in 814, and was buried with great pomp.* His body was 
placed in a sitting posture, upon a stone chair, surrounded by the parapher- 
nalia of royalty, and for three centuries it remained sacred. In the twelfth 
century, however, Frederic Barbarossa opened the tomb that he might sit in the 
stone chair, and after that time the German Emperors used it as the seat of state 

* Victor Hugo makes Aix-la-Chapelle the birth-place of Charlemagne, which is an error. He 
was born at Salzburg in Bavaria. The same clever Frenchman descrihes some royal visits to 
Aix-la-Chapelle. " In 1804, just when Bonaparte had progressed into Napoleon, he visited Aix- 
la-Chapelle. Josephine, who accompanied him, indulged in the caprice of sitting upon this marble 
throne. But the Emperor, though he did not control this indecorous whim of his Creole wife, 
had attired himself for the occasion, from a deep sense of deference to that mighty name, in full 
regimentals, and "stood silent, motionless, and bareheaded, before the chair of Charlemagne. 
Charlemagne died in 814. In 1814, one thousand years afterwards, almost to an hour, occurred 
the fall or moral death of Napoleon. In the course of the same fatal year the allied sovereigns 
visited the grave of Charles the Great ; when Alexander of Russia mounted his gala-uniform in 
imitation of Napoleon, while Frederick William of Prussia appeared in an undress, and the 
Emperor of Austria in a great coat and round hat. The King of Prussia entered into all the 
details of the coronations of the German emperors, with the provost of the Chapter : but the two 
emperors observed a profound silence. All these are now as silent as Charlemagne ! Napoleon, 
Josephine, Alexander, Frederick William, and Francis II., are cold in their graves !" — [Excursions 
along the Banks of the Rhine. By Victor Hugo. London: H. Colburn, 1843.] 




L 



74 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



at their coronations. The sword and sceptre of the Conqueror are gone, but his 
chair remains an enduring memento of his sepulchre in the cathedral. Various 
bones and other relics are in the church, some of which are shown (for a con-sid- 
er-a-ti-on) and others hidden from the ordinary visitor. He may believe or doubt 
their genuineness, as he pleases, but he will scarcely be able to control the thoughts 
that will suggest themselves when he sees the skull and arm of Charlemagne made 
a show of to coax a few francs from the pockets of the sight-seer. The present 
King of Prussia is a man of good taste : why does he not say a word to stop this 
sacrilegious insult to the memory of the regenerator of Western Europe ? 

The Cathedral is full of interest to the architect as well as the antiquary, for 
both find amongst its incongruities various choice specimens of different ages, 
styles, and tastes. At one of the entrances is seen a bronze wolf, placed there to 
keep in memory a monkish legend, told to all travellers, and thus rendered from 
the tradition of the place into English by a Mr. White, in a volume published by 
M. Kolmen at Aix-la-Chapelle. 

" In former times the zealous and devout inhabitants of Aix-la-Chapelle determined to build 
a cathedral. For six months the clang of the hammer and axe resounded with wonderful activity, 
but alas ! the money which had been supplied by pious Christians for this holy work became 
exhausted, the wages of the masons were suspended, and with them their desire to hew and 
hammer, for, after all, men were not so very religious in those days as to build a temple on 
credit. 

" Thus it stood, half finished, resembling a falling ruin. Moss, grass, and wild parsley flourished 
in the cracks of the walls, screech-owls already discovered convenient places for their nests, and 
amorous sparrows hopped lovingly about where holy priests should have been teaching lessons of 
chastity. 

" The builders were confounded, they endeavoured to borrow here and there, but no rich man 
could be induced to advance so large a sum. The collections from house to house fell short, so 
that instead of the much-wished-for golden foxes nothing was found but copper in the bushes. 
When the magistracy received this report they were out of humour, and looked with desponding 
countenances towards the cathedral walls, as fathers look upon the remains of favourite children. 

" At this moment a stranger of commanding figure and something of pride in his voice and bearing 
entered, and exclaimed 4 Bon Dies ! they say that you are out of spirits. Hem ! if nothing but 
money is wanting, you may console yourselves, gentlemen. I possess mines of gold and silver, 
and both can and will most willingly supply you with a ton of it.' 

" The astounded senators sat like a row of pillars, measuring the stranger from head to foot. 
The Burgomaster first found his tongue. ' Who are you, noble lord,' said he, ' that thus, entirely 
unknown, speak of tons of gold as though they were sacks of beans ? Tell us your name, your 
rank in this world, and whether you are sent from the regions above to assist us.' 'I have not 
the honour to reside there,' replied the stranger, ' and, between ourselves, I beg most particularly 
to be no longer troubled with questions concerning who and what I am. Suffice it to say I have 
gold plentiful as summer hay!' Then, drawing forth a leathern pouch, he proceeded: 'this 
little purse contains the tenth of what I'll give. The rest shall soon be forthcoming. Now listen, 
my masters,' continued he, clinking the coin, ' all this trumpery is and shall remain yours if you 



THE CATHEDRAL AT AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



75 



promise to give me the first little soul that enters the door of the new temple when it is con- 
secrated.' 

" The astonished senators now sprung from their seats as if they had been shot up by an earth- 
quake, and then rushed pele-mele, and fell all of a lump into the farthest corner of the room, where 
they rolled and clung to each other like lambs frightened at flashes of lightning. Only one of the 
party, who had not entirely lost his wits, collected his remaining senses, and, drawing his head out 
of the heap, uttered boldly, ' Avaunt, thou wicked spirit ! ' 

" But the stranger, who was no less a person than Master Urian, laughed at them. ' What's all 
this outcry about ? ' said he at length: ' is my offence so heinous that you are all become like 
children ? It is I that may suffer from this business, not you. With my hundreds and thousands 
I have not far to run to buy a score of souls. From you I ask but one in exchange for all my 
money. What are you picking at straws for? One may plainly see you are a mere set of 
humbugs ! For the good of the commonwealth (which high-sounding name is often borrowed 
for all sorts of purposes) many a prince would instantly conduct a whole army to be butchered, 
and you refuse one single man for that purpose ! Fie ! I am ashamed, O overwise counsellors, 
to hear you reason thus absurdly and citizen-like. What, do you think to deprive yourselves of 
the kernel of your people by granting my wish ? O no, there your wisdom is quite at fault, for, 
depend on it, hypocrites are always the earliest churchbirds.' 

" By degrees, as the cunning fiend thus spoke, the senators took courage and whispered in each 
other's ear, ' What is the use of our resisting ? The grim lion will only show his teeth once — 
if we don't assent, we shall infallibly be packed off ourselves. It is better, therefore, to quiet him 
directly.' Scarcely was this sanguinary contract concluded when a swarm of purses flew into the 
room through the doors and windows, and Urian, more civil than before, took leave without 
leaving any smell behind. He stopped, however, at the door, and called out with a grim leer, 
' Count it over again for fear that I may have cheated you.' 

" The hellish gold was piously expended in finishing the cathedral, but nevertheless, when the 
building shone forth in all its splendour, the whole town was filled with fear and alarm at the 
sight of it. The fact was that, although the senators had promised by bond and oath not to trust 
the secret to any body, one of them had prated to his wife, and she had made it a market-place 
tale, so that all declared they would never set foot within the temple. The terrified council now 
consulted the clergy, but the good priests all hung down their heads. At last a monk cried out, 
' A thought strikes me. The wolf which has so long ravaged the neighbourhood of our town 
was this morning caught alive. This will be a well-merited punishment for the destroyer of our 
flocks ; let him be cast to the devil in the fiery gulf. 'Tis possible the arch hell-hound may not 
relish this breakfast, yet nolens volens he must swallow it. You promised him certainly a soul, 
but whose was not decidedly specified.' 

" The monk's plan was plausible, and the senate determined to put the cunning trick into 
execution. At length the day of consecration arrived, and orders were given to bring the wolf to 
the principal entrance of the cathedral ; so just as the bells began to ring the trap-door of the cage 
was pulled open, and the savage beast darted out into the nave of the empty church. Master 
Urian from his lurking-place beheld this consecration-offering with the utmost fury. Burning 
with choler at being thus deceived he raged like a tempest, and then rushed forth, slamming the 
brass gate so violently after him that the rings split in two. 

" This crack, which serves to commemorate the priest's victory over the tricks of the devil, 
is still exhibited to the gaping travellers who visit the cathedral." 



Thus much for the Legend. But although the devil was thus disappointed at 



76 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



the Cathedral, he has since been revenged most amply upon Aix ; for he came 
afterwards in the disguise of a rich German baron, and established gaming-tables in 
the town. From that day he has secured an ample supply of victims ; for Aix- 
la-Chapelle is the only place in the Prussian dominions where gambling is per- 
mitted ; and hence all those infatuated by the Daemon of Chance fly to its waters 
for health, and to its tables for destruction. Could the history of the Comphaus- 
bad-Strasse be told, it would make a frightful tale of blighted hopes, lost fortunes, 
and early despair — of sin, disgrace, and suicide — the seldom-failing fate of the 
Gambler. 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



77 



INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




AIX-L A- C H APELLE. 



HOTELS. 

Hotel du Grand Monarque. 
Hotel of the Four Seasons, by M. Kostek zky 
— a good house, and near the Railway. 
Hotel du Dragon d'Or. 

Hotel du Rhin, by Madame Haamann. Rue 
St. Jacques, near the Royal Post Office. 
Hotel de la Couronne Imperiale. 
Hotel de la Tourelle. 
Hotel d'Angleterre. 



Hotel de l'Europe. 

Hotel de l'Empereur. 

The Grand Hotel. 

Hotel de Charlemagne. 

Hotel de Belle Vue. 

Hotel de St. Martin. 

Hotel of the Great Elephant. 

Hotel de Mayence. 

Hotel of the King of Spain. 



78 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 

The Cathedral. 
The Town Hall. 
The Eliza Fountain. 
The Baths. 

Those travellers who stay more than a few 
hours in Aix will find the environs of the city 
very interesting, and may visit : — 

Schonthal. 

Schonforst. 

Cornelymunster. 

Heidchen. 

Helenens Werth. 

Emmaburg. 

Laurensberg. 

Kaisersruh. 

Kalkofen. 

Le Viaduct. 

Wilhelmstein. 

Stollberg. 

Vaels. 

Louisberg. 

Forest of Pauline. 

Forest of Trimborn. 

Le monument des Monarques. 

The tower of the Ramparts affords an ex- 
cellent view of the city. 

THE WATERS OF AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, 

As the waters of Aix are its great sources of 
attraction, the following information from the 
work of Dr. Wetzlar, a talented physician of the 
place, will be read with interest. 

A peculiar taste of common salt, some alka- 
line substances, and sulphur, is common to all 
warm springs. The sulphureous taste and 
smell are stronger in those which are called the 
Higher than in the Lower springs. Their 
temperature is between 135° and 115° of Fahr. ; 
the specific weight is about the same in all, of 
1 "004, the specific weight of common distilled 
water, of the same temperature, taken at 1 *000. 
These waters, when taken directly from the 
spring, are clear and without any colour, but 
having been exposed for a little time to the air, 
they become dim, and a white sediment is 



formed. If the water is exposed to the air for 
a longer time, it loses all its smell and taste of 
sulphur. 

The difference between the single sulphu- 
reous springs is considerable, though they agree 
in many essential points. The springs which 
originate in the upper part of the town (in the 
Buchelstrasse and on the Buttermarkt.) and 
supply the bath-houses situated there, and also 
the Elisenbrunnen, with water, are called the 
Higher springs. Those which supply the 
bath-houses in the Compesbadstrasse and on the 
Damengraben are called the Lower springs. 
The former have a higher temperature, and 
contain more solid and volatile substances than 
the latter. Great choice is therefore left to the 
physician, in prescribing the use of the bath he 
may think most proper for his patient. The 
higher springs are, the Emperor's, the Quirinus 
spring, and a little spring in front of the Em- 
peror's bath. The lower are, the Rosenbad 
(Rosebath) spring, the Cornelius spring, and 
the spring of the old drinking-well. All these 
springs contain a great many solid substances, 
chiefly salts and gases. Sixteen ounces of 
water taken from the Emperor's spring con- 
tain : — 

Grains. 

Sulphuret of sodium - - - 0-61978 
Muriate of soda .... 20-71572 
Carbonate of soda ... 6-60956 

Sulphate of soda - 2-12083 
Phosphate of soda - - - 0-14246 

Animal organic substance - - 0-29384 

Silicate oxide - 0- 53600 

Fluorate of lime - 0-47923 
Carbonate of lime - 0-23224 

Phosphate of soda and lithia) 

Carbonate of magnesia Y - - 0-19545 
Carbonate of strontia - 1 

Total grains 31-94511 

The quantity of gases issuing constantly out 
of the springs is very considerable ; 100 cubic 
inches of those gases taken from the Emperor's 
spring have been found to consist of : — 

Nitrogen gas ... 69A cubic inches. 
Carbonic gas - - - 30 
Super-sulphuretted hydrogen gas ± 

The chemist I have already quoted was, ac- 
cording to my opinion, fully entitled to call 
the hydro-sulphuric gas of our springs 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



79 



super-sulphuretted hydrogen gas, because 
this gas is proved to contain more sulphur than 
is necessary for forming the common hydro- 
sulphuric gas ; for though a part of the 
sulphur contained in the gas leaves it, and com- 
bines itself with surrounding colder objects, as 
soon as the water loses a little of its high tem- 
perature, yet the hydro-sulphuric gas left in it 
continues to act chemically in the very same 
way as the gas we prepare in our laboratories. 
There can be hardly any doubt, that by sub- 
terraneous heat and compression, hydrogen gas 
combines with a larger proportion of sulphur 
than it can in the open air, which accounts for 
the circumstance, that a large quantity of pure 
sulphur is deposited in a sediment in the water 
reservoirs, and the tubes which conduct the 
waters from different springs to baths or foun- 
tains lying at some distance from them. 

The temperatures of the several springs arc 
as follows : — 

The Kmperor's spring is 135± degrees. 
Quirinus spring 117£ ditto. 
Lower springs 1 1 5| 

There are eight bath-houses, four of which 
derive their water from the higher sources and 
four from the lower: — 

1. The Emperor's bath (Bain de l'Empe- 
reur, Rue Biichel,) is supplied with water by a 
hot sulphureous spring issuing from the large 
rock, upon the summit of which the market 
square and the town hall stand, forming- what is 
called the Emperor's well ; and by another 
spring of the same temperature, issuing in front 
of this bath-house. The Emperor's Well fur- 
nishes so large a quantity of water that it gives 
an ample supply to two other bath-houses, and 
to the Fontaine Elise. 

2. The New Bath Hotel is a large and 
splendid building, newly erected in the same 
street. It obtains an abundant supply of water 
from the Emperor's spring. 

3. The Bain de la Reine de Hongrie, situ- 
ated on the Buttermarkt, deriving its water 
from the same spring. 

4. The Bain St. Quirin is provided with 
water from the Quirinus spring. 



3. The Rosebath Hotel, situated in the Rue 
Compesbad, is supplied with water from the 
Rosebath spring, issuing in the yard of the 
hotel. 

6. & 7. The Cornelius and Charles baths 
obtain the water necessary for their use from 
the Cornelius spring, issuing in the yard of the 
former. The three last-mentioned splendid 
buildings stand close together in the Rue Com- 
pesbad. 

The before-mentioned bath-houses contain 
bathing-rooms for common baths, as well as for 
douches and pumping-baths. The apparatus 
for douches is excellent. Large reservoirs are 
in each bath-house, for cooling the warm 
mineral water. Most of the bath-houses con- 
tain vapour-baths of hot sulphureous water. 
One great convenience in all the hath-houses is, 
that furnished apartments, at various prices, 
according to the elegance or comfort of the 
rooms, can be obtained by persons taking a 
course of waters. Patients who prefer residing 
in a bath-house should be guided in their 
choice, as much by the springs their physician 
prescribes for their complaints, as by the com- 
forts they are desirous of meeting with. 

Poor patients are not forgotten at Aix-Ia- 
Chapelle, and a bath-house in the Damengraben 
is appropriated to their use, where they may 
bathe for a very trifling sum. 

Persons who drink the waters may do so in 
their bath-houses, but the water of the Fon- 
taine Elise is generally preferred. It is situ- 
ated in Frederic William Square, one of the 
finest parts of the town. Its facade, 266 feet 
long, is ornamented in the Doric style. In the 
centre is a Rotunda, 56^ feet in diameter, and 
46 feet in height. Colonnades, forming a 
covered promenade 180 feet long, issue from 
the rotunda. There is a pavilion on both sides 
containing rooms for refreshments. The foun- 
tain is in the rotunda. Two staircases lead 
down to it ; and for patients who are not equal 
to the task of walking down, tumblers of water 
are wound up from the depth of the rotunda, 
by a mechanical contrivance. The rotunda is 
decorated with a marble bust of Eliza, Queen 



80 



of Prussia, who was pleased to give her name 
to the fountain. The square in which the 
fountain is situated is adorned with trees, 
which afford ample shade from the sun to those 
who use exercise to digest the water. 

THE HIGHER, OR MURIATIC ALKALINE SPRINGS. 

1. The Kochhrunnen, or Boiling Well. — 
This is situated in the town of Borcette, in a 
small valley formed by the two mountains upon 
the declivities of which the town is built. Its 
temperature is 140°, its specific weight 1 "004. 
It is surrounded by a wall, and forms a well, in 
the centre of which the spring issues from some 
small clefts between the rocks. 

2. A spring issuing in the Krebsbad (Cray- 
fish) Bath-house, almost of the same qualities as 
the preceding, having a temperature of 153°. 

3. The hottest spring of Borcette, being 
171°, by which four bath-houses are supplied 
with water. 

4. A Muriatic Alkaline spring, rising in the 
garden of the Crayfish bath-house, 153° of tem- 
perature, which furnishes a large quantity of 
hot sulphureous water to the Rosebath hotel, 
used there for baths. 

According to Monheim's analysis, 16 ounces 
of the mineral water from each of the several 
springs contain — 



Sulphuret of sodium 
Muriate of soda - 
Carbonate of soda 
Sulphate of soda- 
Phosphate of soda 
Animal organic substance 
Silicate acid - 
Fluate of lime 
Carbonate of lime 
Carbonate of magnesia 
Carbonate of strontian 



The Drink- Boiling Well, 
ing Spring. 

Grains. Grains. 
0-29698 

20-62402 20-71096 

6-59950 6-65103 



2-56704 
0-14154 
20835 
0-55280 
0-48545 
0-24069 



2-94950 
0-14991 
0-22371 
0-55595 
0-50234 
30835 



0-15596 0-20421 



Phosphate of soda-lithi 

Total grains 31-87233 



The gases contained in the waters of Borcette 
are in the following proportions: — 100 cubic 
inches of the gases emanating from the springs 
consist of — 



The Drinking Spring. 



Nitrogen gas 
Carbonic gas 
Hydrosulphuric gas 



Cubic in. 
7075 
29 05 
•20 



The Boiling Well. 



Nitrogen gas 
Carbonic gas 
Oxygen gas - 



The Hottest Spring. 



Nitrogen gas 
Carbonic gas 
Oxygen gas - 



Cubic in. 

- 71-5 

- 28-4 

•1 



Cubic in. 

- 71-35 

- 28 50 

- -15 



The Traveller's passport is examined at Aix by 
the Prussian authorities. The commissionaire 
of any of the hotels will see this attended to for 
half a franc. 

The Cathedral, (in German Munster), — 
is situated in the centre of the town, and was 
originally built by Charlemagne, by whose 
order the work was commenced in 796, and 
finished in 804. This building is recorded to 
have been one of the most magnificent of Char- 
lemagne's time, but it was very much injured by 
an earthquake in 813, by the Normans who 
plundered it, and by the conflagrations in 1 146, 
1234, 1236, and 1656, and has in consequence 
undergone several material changes. It is of an 
octagonal form, forty- eight feet in diameter, 
with a gallery running round it, communicating 
with the choir. The granite and porphyry 
columns, which originally supported the arches 
of this gallery, were removed by the French to 
Paris, but the greater part of them have been 
brought back. The choir was commenced in 
1353, and finished in 1413, and is a fine speci- 
men of Gothic architecture. The tomb of Charle- 
magne is in the centre of the floor, covered 
by an unusually large flagstone, inscribed 
with the simple words, — " Carolo Magno." 
The marble chair upon which the deceased 
Emperor was found sitting, and which all 
German Emperors afterwards occupied during 
the coronation is still to be seen in the Cathe- 
dral, The large and splendid chandelier sus- 
pended over the tomb was presented to the 
church by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa. 
Eight chapels surround the Cathedral, and are 
connected with it by entrances through the 
walls. In one of them (the Chapel of the Holy 
Cross) there is a magnificent altar-piece, which 
consists of a crucifix carved in wood. There 
are many rare and precious objects in the 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE . 



S! 



Cathedral, the greater part of which were ob- 
tained as presents from the kings and queens 
who were crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in former 
times. Persons visiting the Cathedral should 
not omit seeing the magnificent sarcophagus of 
Parian Marble, sculptured in alto-relievo, 
which represents the Rape of Proserpine. 
This Cathedral possesses a vast number of relics, 
which are divided into two classes. Those of 
the first class are the most sacred ; those of less 
importance constitute a second class. The 
latter are visible at all times, but the former are 
only shown once in seven years, when they are 
exposed to the view of the faithful during a 
fortnight. An exception to this rule is some- 
times made in favour of sovereign princes, who 
are indulged with a sight of the grand relics, as 
a special favour, at other periods. 

Town Hall, built in 1353, a remarkable 
edifice in the old German style. On the east 
and west it is flanked by lofty towers ; that to 
the east is called Granus Tower. A large 
staircase of flagstone, built in 1730, leads to the 
chief entrance. On the third story is the saloon 
in which the congress of 1748 was held, when 
the treaty of peace, called the Peace of Aix- 
la-Chapelle, was concluded. It contains the 
separate portraits of the ambassadors who 
signed the treaty. Of these, the portraits of 
Prince Kaunitz and Lord Sandwich are con- 
sidered to be the best. In this saloon, the 
King of Prussia entertained the illustrious per- 
sons staying here during the Congress in 1818. I 
The Town Hall also contains the portraits of 
Napoleon and Josephine, painted by Bouchet 
and Lefebre. 

The Church of St. Nicholas contains three 
noticeable pictures — one, the Descent from the 
Cross, by Vandyke ; the two others by Diepen- 
beck, one of the most skilful pupils of Rubens. 

General Elliott, the defender of Gibraltar, 
died at Kalkofen, near Aix. 

History. — The great troubles directly 
following Charlemagne's death had a very un- j 
favourable influence on the town. It gradually 
lost the grandeur it had acquired under his sway. 
In 898, it was taken and plundered by the 



Normans, and was during thirty-eight years 
exposed to the greatest disasters, until Otho I. 
was there elected and crowned as King of 
Germany. His coronation was celebrated with 
the utmost pomp in the Cathedral. By Otho's 
liberality the town became very flourishing. 
His predilection for the place caused him to 
reside there for a considerable period, when 
leisure was left him to rest from the fatigues of 
government. After his death a great many 
misfortunes befel Aix. It was plundered in 
978 by the troops of the French King Lothaire. 
But notwithstanding this and other disasters, 
the number of inhabitants increased with the 
growing industry and the extension of the 
woollen cloth manufactories, so that in 1171, 
the town having become too small for the ac- 
commodation of the people, the suburbs were 
considerably enlarged. Aix-la-Chapelle was 
visited with a great conflagration in August, 
1224, by which the Cathedral was very much 
damaged. Many magnificent palaces belonging 
to ecclesiastical and other princes of the German 
empire were destroyed, and the greater part of 
the town was reduced to ashes. Aix-la-Chapelle 
had scarcely recovered from this misfortune, 
when another great fire caused an extensive de- 
vastation. The town sustained in 1248 a long 
and vigorous siege, commenced against it by 
"William, Count of Holland, at the head of a 
large army, to support his claims to the empire 
in opposition to those of Frederic II., who had 
been excommunicated by Pope Innocent IV. 
When the citizens had been reduced to the last 
extremity of famine, a capitulation was agreed 
upon, in consequence of which Count "William 
was crowned in the Cathedral. It would take 
too much space to enumerate the thirty-six 
German Emperors and Kings that have been 
crowned at Aix. 

In 1656 the town was a third time almost 
destroyed by fire ; about 5000 houses, with the 
principal public edifices, were either wholly 
consumed or greatly damaged. Most certainly 
the place would never have recovered from that 
disaster, if its springs and manufactories had not 
provided ample means for its restoration. 



M 



82 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



In 1668 the ambassadors of France, Spain, 
England and Holland, met at Aix-la-Chapelle, 
and agreed on the treaty which bears its name. 

Amongst the visitors of the season in 1717 
was the Russian Czar, Peter I. who paid great 
attention to the cloth and needle manufactures, 
and, upon visiting the Cathedral, is reported to 
have stood for a long time in silence, contem- 
plating the tomb of Charlemagne. 

In 1748 this city was again the theatre of 
diplomatic negotiations, representatives of all 
the principal States of Europe having assembled 
here to discuss the terms of pacification. This 
peace, known as the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
did not last long, as in 1756 the great Seven 
Years' War broke out. By the peace of Lune- 
ville, Aix-la-Chapelle ceased to be a free and 
imperial town belonging to the German empire, 
and was united to France. Under the French 
empire, the town formed a part of the Departe- 
ment de la Roere. It cannot be denied, that 
Napoleon did much for the benefit of the town ; 
and his benefits would not be less, even if that 
which is maintained by many were true, that 
his motive for protecting Aix-la-Chapelle arose 
from a degree of vanity (very pardonable in the 
eyes of the inhabitants) of looking upon himself 
as a modern Charlemagne, for which reason he 
was supposed to have imitated that hero even in 
the most trifling points. After Napoleon's 
defeat, Aix-la-Chapelle was attached to the 
kingdom of Prussia, at the congress of Vienna 
in 1815. The most important event for the 
city under the present government was the con- 
gress held in it in 1818. Aix-la-Chapelle was 
crowded with sovereigns, princes, ministers, am- 
bassadors and their suites, including Frederic 
William III. of Prussia, the Emperor of Russia 
Alexander L, the Emperor of Austria Francis 
I., the Royal Prussian Princes, the Duke of 
Wellington and Richelieu, the Prussian Prime 
Minister Count Bernstorff, Lord Castlereagh, 
and the Due d'Angouleme. One of the first 
results of this congress was, the resolution 



agreed upon to remove the allied troops from 
France, which they had occupied since the 
battle of Waterloo. 

Aix-la-Chapelle is now the seat of a regency, 
of a provincial court of justice, a collegiate abbey, 
and a board for the decision of commercial suits. 
It contains a cathedral, sixteen Roman Catholic 
churches, one evangelical combined Protestant 
church, in which every Sunday at 12 o'clock 
divine service is performed by an English Pro- 
testant clergyman, and a synagogue, to which 
Sir Moses Montefiore has contributed large 
donations. Many schools have been established 
by the government and city authorities. There 
are also other institutions, which will be alluded 
to in the course of this treatise. — [Dr. Wetzlar.'] 

The Town of Aix contains, according to 
the last official accounts, 43,000 inhabitants. 
It may be considered a very healthy place. 
The surrounding hills sheltering it from rough 
winds, inflammations are very rare ; and when 
they occur, are in most cases far from violent. 
Agues were frequent in Aix-la-Chapelle about 
seven years ago, but now seldom occur, since 
certain swamps lying in the vicinity of the town 
have been drained, by order of the government. 

The small town of Borcette (in German, 
Bnrtschied) derives its name from the Latin 
Porcetum, which word was applied, in the 
beginning of the tenth century to a large wood, 
(the haunt of vast numbers of wild boars,) which 
was then standing on the very spot now covered 
by the town of Borcette. It is situated about 
400 yards to the south of Aix-la-Chapelle. Its 
origin is due to the Greek Prince Gregory, son 
of the oriental Emperor Nicephoras Phocas, and 
brother-in-law to the German Emperor Otho 
II., who married his sister Tbeophania, A 
Benedictine abbey was there founded by him, 
which induced many people to settle in its 
vicinity. Thus a village took its rise, which, 
partly by its springs, and partly by the industry 
of its inhabitants, has increased so as to form at 
this time a small town, with 5367 inhabitants. 



A1X-LA-CHAPELLE TO THE RHINE. 



83 




he " Road of Iron " is ready, when the Traveller has 
exhausted Aachen, to bear him to Cologne and the banks 
of the Rhine, where he will exchange steam ashore for 
steam afloat, and continue his tour by boat instead of rail. 
From Aix to Cologne is but forty English miles; and 
what is that now-a-days ? Little more than two hours' 
journey ; but then those two hours carry the Traveller 
into a different country. Belgium is French in its con- 
versation and modes ; aye, even in Aix-la-Chapelle you 
may feel yourself in France, though the frontier was passed to reach it, and 
though the Prussian holds sway there. But when the baths are left behind, 
the Tourist finds himself in another land. With more speed than the 
Belgian lines display, he finds that steam is tugging him into Germany. 
The language, the manners, and the costumes are changing. 

A fine, though momentary, view of Borcette is had from the steam-carriage ; and 
in a few minutes is seen on the left the Castle of Frankenburg, with its modern 
additions to the ivy-clad ruin of Charlemagne's edifice. Just before entering the 
Tunnel of Nirm, the village of that name is seen on the right. Cambach Mill 




84 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



affords a station : and, on starting again, we quickly pass the busy town of Stol- 
berg (on the right), surrounded by its coal-field ; the village of Pumpe, with its 
iron-works (on the left) ; and then, through a curved tunnel, to Eschweiler station, 
where the old castle is being restored. The four round towers of Nothberg next 
attract attention, and then a deep cutting leads us to the station of Langewehr. 
The castle and village of Merode (on the right) soon succeed ; and then Diiren, 
where Charles the Fifth was nearly killed whilst besieging the place ; next, a three- 
miles'-long cutting through the high lands that separate the basins of the Meuse 
and of the Rhine. The stations of Biiir and Horm next succeed, with the castle 
of Frenz, and the mile-long tunnel of Konigsdorf — the longest in Germany ; then 
the stations of Konigsdorf and Mungersdorf, and then the first view of Cologne. 
Steaming by the walls, and passing some detached forts, the Tourist soon finds 
himself at the terminus below the city, on the left bank of the Rhine. 

Let the Traveller not be disappointed with the first glance at the river as he 
sees it at Koln. He is yet some miles below the banks which have gained for the 
stream the fame of surpassing beauty. Those natural charms await his admiration 
higher up, between the towns of Coblenz and Bingen. There he will find all that 
the poet promises : — 

" A blending of all beauties ; streams and dells, 
Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine, 
And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells 
From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. 

" And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, 

Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 

All tenantless, save to the crannying wind, 

Or holding dark communion with the cloud. 

There was a day when they were young and proud, 

Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; 

But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, 

And those which wav'd are shredless dust ere now, 
And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. 

" Beneath these battlements, within those walls, 

Power dwelt amidst her passions; in proud state, 

Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, 

Doing his evil will, nor less elate 

Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 

What want these outlaws conquerors should have ? 

But History's purchas'd page to call them great? 

A wider space, an ornamented grave ? 
Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. 



THE BANKS OF THE RHINE. 



8-5 



*t In their baronial feuds and single fields, 
What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! 
And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields, 
With emblems well devis'd by amorous pride, 
Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; 
But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on 
Keen contest and destruction near allied, 
And many a tower for some fair mischief won, 

Saw the discolour'd Rhine beneath its ruin run. 

" But Thou, exulting and abounding river ! 
Making thy waves a blessing as they flow 
Through banks whose beauty would endure for ever, 
Could man but leave thy bright creation so, 
Nor its fair promise from the surface mow 
With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see 
Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know 
Earth pav'd like Heav'n; and to seem such to me, 

Even now what wants thy stream? — that it should Lethe be. 

" A thousand battles have assail'd thy banks, 
But these and half their fame have pass'd away, 
And Slaughter heap'd on high his weltering ranks : 
Their very graves are gone, and what are they ? 
Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yesterday, 
And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream 
Glass'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; 
But o'er the blacken'd memory's blighting dream 

Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem." 




86 



THE RHINE BOOK. 




n the history of the Rhine, we have a history of Europe. 
^ A boundary of the empire of Caesar, it afterwards 
gave passage to the barbarian hordes who over- 
threw Imperial Rome : Charlemagne made it the 
outpost of his power ; anon the Church gained 
strength in the cities on its banks, and then mo- 
nasteries and feudal strongholds rose up quickly 
after each other. Then was it visited by the 
forms of the Middle Ages ; orders of chivalry 
were established at Mayence ; and knights of the 
Teutonic order, of Rhodes, and of the Temple, appeared upon 
the scene. The minnesinger and the troubadour praise its 
wines, tell of its contests, and celebrate its victories. The 
hills, the caves, the forests, the stream, and the solid rocks 
themselves are tenanted by superstition, by Oreads, Mer- 
maids, Gnomes, Black Huntsmen, and demons in all imaginable fantastic shapes. 
Meantime the towns were growing under the influence of Trade — the grimy 
power that destroyed the feudal system. Cannon were invented at Nuremburg ; 
the reformed religion found an advocate at Constance in John Huss even before 
Luther fulminated his wrath against the Scarlet Mistress of the Seven Hills : 
printing was accomplished by Gutemburg at Mayence ; and now Steam tenants 
its waters. Caesar, Attila, Clovis, Charlemagne, Frederick Barbarossa, Rodolph 
of Hapsbourg, the Palatine Frederick the First, Gustavus Adolphus, and Napo- 
leon have been victorious upon its banks. What more could fate do to give 
the stream an almost immortality of fame ? 

Rising in Switzerland, in the canton of the Grisons, by three small sources, it 
gains its name of Rhine*, and a breadth of 230 feet, at Richenau, the point of 
confluence. It passes through the Bodensee ; but, before giving its tributary 
waters to the beautiful Lake of Constance, forms the Falls of SchaufFhausen. 



* The Steam Navigation Companies on the Rhine appear determined, if possihle, to equal the 
fastest Thames steamers in point of speed. A new iron steamer, named the Elberfeldt, previous 
to being placed in active service, made an experimental voyage from Dusseldorf and Cologne to 
Mayence and back, and, to the surprise of every German, performed the journey from Cologne to 
Mayence, against the strong stream, in 13 hours and 20 minutes, and from Mayence to Cologne 
with the stream, rather under seven hours, inclusive of stoppages. To form a comparison of what 
the Dusseldorf Company have accomplished, whose vessels are all propelled by English engines, 
it is necessary to add, that in 1837, previous to their formation, it was held as an extraordinary feat 
to proceed by water in two days from Cologne to Mayence ; namely, the first day from Cologne to 
Coblence in 14 hours, and the second day from Coblence to Mayence in 13 hours, making together 
27 hours, now performed in half the time, and in one day. 



THE COURSE OF THE RHINE. 



87 





HE FALLS OF 8CE AD Ff H iC B E> 



fter traversing several of the cantons, it leaves Swit- 
zerland at Basle, on its course through Germany and 
Holland to the sea. Its chief tributaries are the 
Neckar, Murg, Kinzig, Aar, Maine, Nalie, Lahn, Mo- 
selle, Erft, Ruhr, Lippe. Its basin has a length of 
180 leagues. The canal of the Rhine and the Rhone 
unites these two rivers with the Saone ; whilst the Great Northern Canal unites 
the Rhine with the Meuse and the Nethe, and thus with the Scheldt. Its waters 
furnish capital salmon, which, when taken on their passage up the stream, are 
called Lachse ; when caught in autumn, on their way down the river to the sea, 
are known as salmon. It affords also sturgeon, pike, carp, and- lampreys. Its 
enormous rafts of timber have often been described, and should be seen to be 
appreciated. They often carry half a village of people, and are sold for many 



88 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



thousands of pounds. In summer, when the Tourist visits the river, its course 
is comparatively calm and orderly : it is only in spring, when the snows melt 
rapidly in Switzerland, that "Father Rhine" is to be beheld in his might; for 
then the waters often rise a dozen feet above their common level. The current is 
thus greatly increased beyond its ordinary rate of three and a half miles an hour. 
Its depth from Basle to Strasbourg averages ten to twelve feet; at Mayence, 
twenty-four feet ; at Dusseldorf, fifty feet. 



THE WES OF THE RHINE. 



89 





THE WINES OE THE RHINE. 

t would be difficult to say whether the wines or the 
scenery of the Rhine has received most praise. 
Songs are sung, and books written, and legends 
told in honour of both ; and certainly both deserve 
all that can be expressed in their favour. The 
true German is not only eloquent when speaking 
of the quality of the Rhine wines ; he claims for 
them also the honours of antiquity. One is content 
to date their history as late as the days of Probus ; 
but others declare that Bacchus only could be the 
parent of such admirable liquor, and point to 
Bacharach as the resting-place of the deity when he came to taste the Rhine 
grapes, and set an example to all future tipplers. Cyrus Redding, the historian 
of the Grape, in the chapters of his book in which he dilates upon the Wines 
of Germany, becomes almost as enthusiastic as a Burschen ; and as he must 
be regarded as the best authority upon the subject, it will be well here to quote 
what he says. 




90 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



" Had the etymology been treated metaphorically, to describe the vine country 
on the Rhine, and some of its tributary rivers, it would not have been out of 
place to call it the country of Bacchus. The Germans boast of four other places 
sacred to Bacchus : Steegbach, situated on a hillock, they call the ladder of Bac- 
chus ; Diebach, the finger (digitus) ; Handbach, or Manersbach, the hand ; and 
Lorch, or Laurea, the bay or laurel. Formerly it was impossible to enter a 
German house without being offered 'large jacks of wine,' so attached were they 
to the rites of their purple deity. The banks of these rivers are covered with 
vineyards. The Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, and Mayn are gardens of the vine. Nor 
have the Germans been content with cultivating the banks of rivers alone, but 
the higher lands are planted with the greatest success. It matters very little 
whether the territory of Treves poured out its abundance in the time of the 
Romans or of Charlemagne ; the Germans have enjoyed it since the year 400 ; 
and the Frenchman who said that the Germans had found out the perpetual 
motion in their cups, or tall old wine glasses, was not far from the truth. The 
German loves his glass ; and while he cultivates his vines, let the good burgher 
of Treves swallow his Augenscheimer, his Thiergartner, Schamet, and Pitcher, 
provided he will allow the foreigner to share a little of the superfluity of his 
golden vintage. From Bonn to Coblentz, and from the latter city to Mayence, 
the country is covered with vineyards. The Johannisberger of ' father ' Rhine, 
the Gruenhaeuser or the Brauneberger of the Moselle, and the Hockheimer of 
the Mayn, each distinguish and hallow their respective rivers in the eyes of the 
connoisseur in wine. 

" Whoever has visited the noble Rhine must have felt sensible of the beauty of 
its vineyards, covering steep and shore, interlaced with the most romantic ruins, 
towns ancient and venerable, smiling villages, and the rapid broad German river, 
reflecting the rich scenery on its banks. From Mentz even to Bonn the vineyards 
of the Rhine are observed to greater advantage than any similar cultivation in 
other countries : Erbach, enthroned on its vines ; the Rheingau, its Johannisberg 
on a crescent hill of red soil, adorned with cheering vegetation; Mittelheim, 
Geisenheim, and Riidsheim with its strong, fine-bodied wine, the grapes from 
which bask on their promontory of rock, in the summer sun, and imbibe its gene- 
rous heat from dawn to setting ; then again, on the other side, Bingen, delightful, 
sober, majestic, with its terraces of vines, topped by the chateau of Klopp. The 
river and its riches, the corn and fruit which the vicinity produces, all remind the 
stranger of a second Canaan. The Bingerloch, the ruins, and the never-failing 
vines scattered among them, like verdant youth revelling amid age and decay, 
give a picture nowhere else exhibited, uniting to the joyousness of wine the 
sober tinge of meditative feeling. The hills back the picture, covered with feudal 
relics or monastic remains, below Asmannhausen to Lorch, mingled with the 



THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 



91 



purple grape. Bacharach is near, the wine of which — probably the fancy of the 
drinkers having changed, is now pronounced second-rate in quality, though, not 
long ago, even the French celebrated it in their Bacchanalian songs — is still very 
good, fashion may say what it chooses. Landscapes of greater beauty, joined to 
the luxuriance of fruitful vine culture, can nowhere be seen ; perhaps there is 
something to be added, for the alliance of wine, and its agreeable qualities, with 
the noble scenery of the river. The mind will have its associations upon all sub- 
jects. 

" To the north of Coblentz the wines are of little comparative note, though 
Bodendorf, near Bonn, has been said to produce a Rhenish wine of the second 
growth, thus far to the north. Coblentz is about the latitude of Plymouth, while 
Mayence itself is nearly on the same parallel with the Lizard in Cornwall. Either 
on the Rhine, or on its tributary rivers between these two places, all the most cele- 
brated wines of Germany are grown. None of the better wines of France are 
grown so far to the north. It is at Coblentz that the soil first becomes particu- 
larly well adapted for the cultivation of the vine. The right bank descending is 
most noted for its wines ; but the vineyards, in many parts, cover both banks." 

The soil has, of course, much influence upon the quality of the wine; and 
the banks of the Rhine are remarkable for the great variety of rocks upon its 
banks, and consequently for the variety of soils, made up partly by the decom- 
position of those rocks, and partly by the deposits from streams, and by artificial 
manures provided by the cultivator. " Granite decomposed," says Cyrus Redding, 
" and quartz in favourable sites, offer good vine land, and so does sienite. Clay- 
slate, mingled with quartz, is observed to be highly favourable with basalt. 
Where marl, mingled with pebbles, occurs, the vines succeed best ; nearly the 
same character, but, if any thing, still a better, may be given to dolenite. Varie- 
gated sandstone in decomposition does not do well for the vines in dry seasons, 
though light in its nature ; when mingled with clay, or other earths, its produce 
is tolerable, but it gives no remarkable wine. Shell marl, where the calcareous 
properties are most prevalent, when mixed with the clay soil, will grow tolerable 
good vines, and the same when they are reared upon a coarse limestone well 
worked. KifFer produces only weak wine. Schistous marl, where it occurs 
decomposed, yields a fertile soil for the vine. When mingled with round stones 
or sand it is very favourable, but no remarkable wine is produced from it. It is 
strange that the Germans dress their vines with strong manures, which the French 
and Portuguese pronounce to be injurious." 

The botanical part of the question comes next ; and we learn that " The grapes 
which are preferred for general cultivation are the riessling, a small white species, 
harsh in taste, but in hot seasons furnishing a remarkably excellent wine, having 
a fine bouquet. The kleinberger, a productive species, which ripens easily, and 



92 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



a small Orleans variety. The produce of all the vineyards it is impossible to 
ascertain. The circle of Coblentz contains nearly seventeen thousand Prussian 
acres, each of which is calculated to yield wine of about fifteen pounds sterling 
annually in value. The circle of Treves, containing twenty-three hundred acres, 
gives an annual product of thirty-nine pounds sterling each acre. In Wirtemberg, 
the product of the kingdom, or of 61,514 acres, has been valued at 3,990,831 
florins. The true Hockheimer is grown in a little spot of about eight acres to the 
eastward of Mentz, between that place and Frankfort. Each acre contains four 
thousand plants. The produce, in a tolerable year, is twelve large casks, which 
sell for about one hundred and fifty pounds each. Worms was formerly reported 
to grow a hundred and fifty fudders within the territories of the city, ' sweeter 
than virgin's milk (liebfrauen milch).' " 

The glorious season of fruition — the Vintage — is the time for the visit of 
a wine-lover to the Rhine. " The vintage," continues our Bacchanalian authority, 
" does not take place until the grapes are perfectly mature ; they are then carefully 
gathered, the bad fruit picked out, and, with the stalks, put aside. The wine of 
the pressings is separated, most vom ersten druck, vom nackdruck. The more 
celebrated of these wines are all fermented in casks ; and then, after being repeat- 
edly racked, suffered to remain for years in large fudders * to acquire perfection 
by time. These huge casks contain each about three hundred and fifty tuns. The 
wines mellow best in large vessels ; hence the celebrated Heidelberg tun, thirty- 
one feet long by twenty-one high, and holding one hundred and fifty fudders, or 
six hundred hogsheads ; the second of these was built at Heidelberg in 1663. 
That which preceded it held but one hundred and thirty-two fudders. This tun 
is decorated with all kinds of fantastical ornaments. Tubingen, Griiningen, and 
Konigstein (the last 3709 hogsheads), could all boast of their enormous tuns, in 
which the white wines of the country were thought to mellow better than in casks 
of less dimensions. These tuns were once kept carefully filled. The Germans 
always had the reputation of being good drinkers, and of taking care of the ' liquor 
they loved.' Misson says, in his Travels, that he formerly saw at Nuremberg the 
public cellar, two hundred and fifty paces long, and containing twenty thousand 
ahms of wine." 

And now for the peculiarities of the Rhine wines. " The German are a 
distinct class in character from all other wines. They are generous, dry, finely 
flavoured, and endure age beyond example. They average about 12*08 per cent, 
of alcohol. They have been supposed to turn acid sooner than other wines, though 
the reverse is a remarkable fact. On this subject a recent writer observes, with 
respect to Moselle— and the same will hold good with other wines of Rhenish 

* A common fuder, or fudder, contains only two hundred and fifty gallons. 



THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 



93 



character — that ' the country which borders on the Moselle produces abundance 
of grapes, and some of the wines have an agreeable flavour, especially the vintage 
of Brauneberg. This highly-flavoured wine has, within the last seven years, 
become a fashionable beverage at the first tables in London, and when iced in 
summer, nothing can be more grateful. Some of it has the flavour of the Fron- 
tignan grape, without its sweetness. This wine has a singular quality ; it is diffi- 
cult to make it into vinegar. The author accidentally discovered this property 
by putting a few bottles into a greenhouse, and afterwards into his cellar, for the 
purpose of using it as vinegar ; but, the following spring, he was surprised to find 
that no acetous fermentation had taken place. It has been generally supposed in 
England, that the wines of the Rhine and Moselle are more acid than the white 
wines of France ; but, if the above experiment may be any criterion of the quali- 
ties of the former, it would prove that they are less acid than Sauterne, Barsac, 
and the Graves ; for it is well known that it is necessary to sulphur the casks of 
these wines to prevent the acetous fermentation taking place. Acids are supposed 
to generate gout, and, in England, Rhine wines are on this account forbidden to 
gouty subjects; yet the gout is a disease rarely known on the banks of the Rhine, 
where hardly any other wine is drank.' " And be it never forgotten, that the 
German wines are free from that saturation of brandy which is the high and 
mighty fault, as it must ever be a grand dietetic objection, to the wines of 
France. 

The names and birth-places of the different German wines is interesting. 
" The ordinary wines are not worthy of note. The Liebfrauenmilch, already men- 
tioned, is a well-bodied wine, grown at Worms, and generally fetches a good price. 
The same may be said of the wines of Kcesterick, near Mayence ; and those from 
Mount Scharlachberg are equally full-bodied and well-flavoured. Nierstein, 
Oppenheim, Laubenheim, and Gaubischeim are considered to yield first growths, 
but that of Deidesheim is held to be the best; the last of 1825 sells for twelve 
pounds sterling the ahm, of thirty gallons, in the present year. The prices vary 
much, and depend in a great degree upon the age of the wine. New wine may 
be had from fifteen-pence the maas * to four and seven-pence. Very aged wine 
from eight to ten up to eighteen shillings the bottle. 

" The river Mayn runs up to Frankfort close to Mayence ; and on its banks the 
little town of Hockheim, once the property of General Kellerman, stands upon an 
elevated spot of ground, in the full blaze of the sun. From Hockheim is derived 
the name of Hock, too generally applied in England to all German wines. No 
trees are seen to obstruct the genial fire from the sky, which the Germans deem 
so needful to render their vintages propitious. The town stands in the midst of 



* A little more than two quarts. 



94 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



vineyards. That which produces the Hockheimer of the first growth is about 
eight acres in extent, and situated on a spot well sheltered from the north winds, 
on a little hill behind the deanery. The wine of 1766 and 1775 now fetches 
forty -two and fifty pounds the ahm. The other growths of this wine come from 
the surrounding vineyards. The whole eastern bank of the Rhine to Lorich, 
called the Rheingau, has been remarkable centuries past for its wines. It was 
once the property of the Church. The entire district is one delicious vine-garden. 
In this favoured spot grows the castle, or Schloss-Johannisberger, once the 
property of the Church, and also of the Prince of Orange. Johannisberg is a 
town, with its castle (schloss), on the right bank of the Rhine below Mentz. 
The Johannisberger takes the lead in the wines of the Rhine. The vines are 
grown over the vaults of the castle, and were very near being destroyed by 
General Hoche. The quantity is not large. The price of the vintage of 1811 is 
about thirty-six pounds the ahm, of thirty gallons. That of 1779 sells for 
seventy-five in the present year. The vineyard is now the property of Prince 
Metternich. The other growths near the same vineyard are excellent. The 
Johannisberger of Messieurs Mumm and Giesler of Cologne and J ohannisberg, 
their own growth of 1822, brings, in 1833, from twenty-five to sixty pounds the 
ahm. 

"Rudesheim produces wines of the first Rhine growths ; the ahm of 1811 is 
fifty-five pounds ; but the Steinberger, belonging to the Duke of Nassau, takes 
rank after the Schloss-Johannisberger among these wines. It has the greatest 
strength, and yet is one of the most delicate, and even sweetly flavoured. That 
called the ' Cabinet,' from the vintage of 1811, brings seventy pounds sterling 
the ahm at present, or nearly eleven shillings the bottle. The quantity made 
is small, of the first growth. Graefenberg, which was once the property of 
the Church, produces very choice wine, which carries a price equal to the 
Rudesheim. 

"Marcobrunner is an excellent wine, of a fine flavour, especially when the 
vintage has taken place in a warm year. The vineyards of Roth and Konigsbach 
grow excellent wines. The wine of Bacharach was formerly celebrated, as before 
mentioned, but time produces revolutions in the history of wines, as well as in 
that of empires. Notwithstanding the quality of endurance many of the second- 
rate growths possess, and a freedom from acidity equal to those which hold the 
first place, they are by no means so well known as they ought to be. The oldest 
wine, which is commonly offered to the purchaser, is that of 1748, a year when 
the season was exceedingly propitious to the vintage. Older wines may be met 
with, but less frequently. The excellence of the wine in any particular year 
always depends more upon the warmth of the season than upon any other cause, 
and the high price of the wine in corresponding years rates accordingly. The 



THE WINES OF THE RHINE. 



95 



Germans say, the wines of the best body are made on the higher lands, and the 
worst on the lower ; the last requiring the longest keeping, to render them mellow 
for drinking. The wines of 1783 bear a very high character. There is something 
unaccountable in the extraordinary durability of wines grown so far to the North, 
when the slightest increase of warmth in a season causes such a difference in the 
quality of the wine. While strong southern wines suffer from age after a certain 
period of years in bottle, and begin to deteriorate sensibly, the Rhine wines 
seem possessed of inextinguishable vitality, and set the greater part of rivalry in 
keeping at defiance. It is generally found that wines with the lesser proportion 
of alcohol change sooner than those which are strong. The Rhenish wines 
averaging so little in spirit will endure longer, and continue to improve by age 
as much as the more potent wines of the South, with double their alcoholic 
strength. The best vintages were 1748, 1766, 1779, 1783, 1800, 1802, and 1811. 
The Steinwein of 1748, brought in 1832 seventy pounds the ahm. This may 
serve to show how much these wines gain by age. 

" On the whole the wines of Bischeim, Asmannhaiisen, and Laubenheim, are 
very pleasant wines ; those of the most strength are Marcobrunner, Riidesheimer, 
and Niersteiner, while those of Johannisberg, Geissenheim, and Hockheim, give 
the most perfect delicacy and aroma. The Germans themselves say, * Rhein-wein, 
fein wein ; Neckerwein, lecher ivein ; Franken-ivein, tranken wein ; Mosel-wein, 
unnosel wein,'' 6 Rhine wine is good ; Neckar pleasant ; Frankfort bad ; Moselle 
innocent.' 

"The red wines of the Rhine are not of extraordinary quality. The Asmanns- 
haiiser is the best, and resembles some of the growths of France. Near Lintz, at 
Neuwied, a good wine, called Blischert, is made. Keinigsbach, on the left bank 
of the Rhine, Altenahr, Rech, and Kesseling, yield ordinary red growths. 

" The Moselle wines are secondary to those of the Rhine and Mayn. The most 
celebrated is the Brauneberger. The varieties grown near Treves are numerous. 
A Dutch merchant is said to have paid the Abbey of Maximinus for a variety 
called Gruenhaiiser, in 1793, no less than eleven hundred and forty-four florins 
for two hundred and ninety English gallons in the vat. This wine was formerly 
styled the * Nectar of the Moselle.' It made men cheerful when drank in a 
quantity, and did good the next day, leaving the bosom and head without disorder, 
— such is a German's character of it, that of the jurist Hontheim. These wines 
are light, with a good flavour, and of late have become favourites in England. 
They will not keep so long as the Rhine wines, but they are abundant and 
wholesome. Near Treves are grown the wines of Brauneberg, Wehlen, Graach, 
Zeltingen, and Piesport. The wines of Rinsport and Becherbach are considered 
of secondary rank. The wines of Cusel and Valdrach, near Treves, are thought 
to be possessed of diuretic properties, and even to cure the gravel. In about five 



96 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



years these wines reach the utmost point of perfection for drinking. They will 
not keep more than ten or twelve in prime condition. 

" The wines called ' wines of the Ahr ' resemble those of the Moselle, except 
that they will keep longer. 

"The 6 wines of the Neckar' are made from the best French, Hungarian, and 
even Cyprus vines. The most celebrated are those of Bessingheim. They are 
of a light red colour, not deep, and of tolerable flavour and bouquet. 

"Wisbaden grows some good wines at Schierstein, and Epstein, near Frankfort. 
The best wines of Baden are produced in the seigniory of Badenweiler, near 
Fribourg. At Heidelberg, the great tun used to be filled with the wine of that 
neighbourhood, boasted to be a hundred and twenty years old, but it gave the 
wine no advantage over other Neckar growths. Some good wines are produced 
near Baden. The red wines of Wangen are much esteemed in the country of 
Bavaria, but they are very ordinary. Wurtzberg grows the Stein and Liesten 
wines. The first is produced upon a mountain so called, sold very dear, and 
called * wine of the Holy Spirit ' by the Hospital of Wurtzberg, to whom it 
belongs. The Liesten wines are produced upon Mount St. Nicolas. Straw wines 
are made in Franconia. A vin de liqueur, called Calmus, like the sweet wines 
of Hungary, is made in the territory of Frankfort, at Aschaffenbourg. The best 
vineyards are those of Bischofsheim. Some wines are made in Saxony, but they 
are of little worth. Meissen, near Dresden, and Guben, produce the best. 
Naumberg makes some small wines, like the inferior Burgundies." — \_A History 
and Description of Modern Wines. By Cyrus Redding.'] 




ORNAMENTED WINE C DP AND DISH FROM AN 
ENGRAVING BY HANS BORGMAIR, A. D; 1517. 



THE ARCHITECT OF COLOGNE. 



97 




THE LEGENDS OF COLOGNE — THE CARNIVAL. 

o stranger ever enters Cologne without going to see the Cathedral, and 
nobody ever looks upon that fragment of the mightiest Gothic design 
in Christendom without doing three things — without regretting that 
it never was completed, without asking who was the architect, or 
without listening to the Legend of the Builder. 

Mighty was the Archbishop Conrad de Hochsteden, for he was lord over the 
chief city of the Rhine — the city of Cologne : but his thoughts were troubled, and 
his heart was heavy, for though his churches were rich beyond compare in relics, 
yet other towns not half so large or powerful as his had cathedrals whose fame 
extended over Europe, and whose beauty brought pilgrims to their shrine, profit to 
the ecclesiastics, and business to the townspeople. After many sleepless nights, 
therefore, he determined to add to his city the only thing wanting to complete it, 
and sending for the most famous architect of the time, he commissioned him to 
complete the plan for a Cathedral of Cologne. 

Now the architect was a clever man, but he was more vain than clever. He 
had a dreamy notion of magnificence, which he desired to achieve without a clear 



98 



TFIE RHINE BOOK. 



conception of how he was to do it, or without the will to make the necessary 
sacrifices of labour, care, and perseverance. He received the commission with 
great gladness, and gloated for some days upon the fame which would be his as 
the builder of the structure which the Archbishop desired ; but after this vision 
of glory, when he took his crayons to sketch out the design, he was thrown into 
the deepest despondency. He drew and drew, and added, and erased, and cor- 
rected, and began again, but still did not succeed. Not a plan could he complete. 
Some were too mean, others too extravagant, and others, when done and examined, 
were found to be good, but not original. Efforts of memory instead of imagina- 
tion, their points of excellence were discovered to be copies — a tower from one, a 
spire from another, an aisle from a third, and an altar from a fourth, and one 
after another they were cast aside as imperfect and useless, until the draughtsman, 
more than half crazy, felt inclined to end his troubles and perplexities by a 
plunge into the Rhine. 

In this mood of more than half despair he wandered down to the river's edge, 
and sitting himself upon a stone began to draw in the sand with a measuring-rod, 
which served as a walking-stick, the outlines of various parts of a church. 
Ground-plans, towers, finials, brackets, windows, columns, appeared one after 
another, traced by the point of his wand, but all, one after another, were erased as 
unequal and insufficient for the purpose, and unworthy to form a part of the 
design for a Cathedral of Cologne. Turning round, the architect was aware that 
another person was beside him, and with surprise the disappointed draughts- 
man saw that the stranger was also busily inventing a design. Rapidly on the 
sand he sketched the details of a most magnificent building, its towers rising 
to the clouds, its long aisles and lofty choir stretching away before the eye 
of the gazer until he mentally confessed it was indeed a temple worthy of the 
Most High. The windows were enriched by tracery, such as artist never had 
before conceived, and the lofty columns reared their tall length towards a roof 
which seemed to claim kindred with the clouds, and to equal the firmament 
in expanse and beauty. But each line of this long-sought plan vanished the 
moment it was seen, and with a complete conviction of its excellence, when it was 
gone not a portion of it could the architect remember. 

" Your sketch is excellent," said he to the unknown : " it is what I have thought 
and dreamed of — what I have sought for and wished for, and have not been able 
to find. Give it to me on paper, and I will pay you twenty gold pieces." 

" Twenty pieces ! ha! ha! twenty gold pieces ! " laughed the stranger. " Look 
here ! " and from a doublet that did not seem big enough to hold half the money, 
he drew forth a purse that certainly held a thousand. 

The night had closed in, and the architect was desperate. " If money cannot 
tempt you, fear shall force you ;" and, springing towards the stranger, he plucked 



THE ARCHITECT OF COLOGNE. 



a dagger from his girdle, and held its point close to the breast of the mysterious 
draughtsman, in the attitude to strike, In a moment his wrists were pinioned 
as with the grasp of a vice, and squeezed until he dropped his weapon, and 
shrieked in agony. Falling in the sands, he writhed like an eel upon the 
fisherman's hook ; but plunged and struggled in vain. When nearly fainting, he 
felt himself thrown helpless upon the very brink of the stream. 

" There! revive, and be reasonable. Learn that gold and steel have no power 
over me. You want my cathedral, for it would bring you honour, fame, and 
profit ; and you can have it if you choose." 

" How ?— tell me how?" 

" By signing this parchment with your blood." 

" A vaunt, fiend ! " shrieked the architect ; " in the name of the Saviour I bid 
thee begone." And so saying, he made the sign of the Cross ; and the Evil One 
(for it was he) was forced to vanish before the holy symbol. He made time, how- 
ever, to mutter, " You'll come for the plan at midnight to-morrow." 

The artist staggered home, half dead with contending passions ; and muttering, 
" Sell my soul," " to-morrow at midnight," " honour and fame," and other words 
which told the inward struggle going forward in his soul. When he reached his 
lodgings, he met the only servant he had, going out wrapped in her cloak. 

" And where are you going so late?" said her surprised master. 

a To a mass for a soul in purgatory," was the reply. 

" Oh, horror ! horror ! no mass will avail me. To everlasting torments shall I 
be doomed;" and, hurrying to his room, he cast himself down in tears of remorse, 
irresolution, and despair. In this state his old housekeeper discovered him, on 
her return from her holy errand ; and, her soul being full of charity and kindly 
religion, she begged to know what had caused such grief; and spoke of patience 
in suffering, and pardon by repentance. Her words fell upon the disordered ear 
of the architect with a heavenly comfort ; and he told her what had passed. 

"Mercy me!" was her exclamation. "Tempted by the fiend himself! — so 
strongly, too ! " and so saying, she left the chamber without another word, and 
hurried off to her confessor. 

Now the confessor of Dame Elfrida was the friend of the abbot, and the abbot 
was the constant counsellor of the archbishop, and so soon as the housekeeper 
spoke of the wonderful plan, he told her he would soon see her master, and went 
at once to his superior. This dignitary immediately pictured to himself the 
hosts of pilgrims that would seek a cathedral built with skill from such wonderful 
sketches, and (hoping himself one day to be archbishop) he hurried off to the 
bewildered architect. 

He found him still in bed, and listened with surprise to the glowing account of 
the demon's plan. 



o a 



100 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



" And would it be equal to all this ? " 

" It would." 

" Could you build it ? " 

" I could." 

" Would not pilgrims come to worship in such a cathedral ? " 
"By thousands." 

" Listen, my son ! Go at midnight to the appointed spot ; take this relic 
with you ; " and so saying the abbot gave him a holy morsel of one of the 
Eleven Thousand Virgins. " Agree to the terms for the design you have so long 
desired, and when you have got it, and the Evil One presents the parchment for 
your signature, show this sacred bone." 

After long pondering, the priest's advice was taken ; and in the gloom of night 
the architect was seen tremblingly hurrying to the place of meeting. True to his 
time, the fiend was there, and with a smile complimented the artist on his punctu- 
ality. Drawing from his doublet two parchments, he opened one on which was 
traced the outlines of the cathedral, and then another written in some mysterious 
character, and having a yellow brimstony space left for a signature. 

" Let me examine what I am to pay so dearly for." 

" Most certainly," said the demon with a smile, and a bow that would have 
done honour to the court of the Emperor. 

Pressing it with one hand to his breast, the architect with the other held up 
the holy thumb-bone,, and exclaimed, " Avaunt, fiend ! In the name of the 
Father, and the Son, and the Holy Virgins of Cologne, I bid thee, Satan, at 
defiance ; " and he described the sign of the Cross directly against the Devil's 
face. 

In an instant the smile and the graceful civility were gone. With a hideous grin 
he approached the sacred miracle as though he would have strangled the possessor ; 
and yelling with a sound that woke half the sleepers in Cologne, he skipped 
round and round the artist. Still, however, the plan was held tightly with one 
hand, and the relic held forward like a swordsman's rapier with the other. As 
the fiend turned, so turned the architect ; until, bethinking himself that another 
prayer would help him, he called loudly on St. Ursula. The demon could stand 
the fight no longer ; the chief of the Eleven Thousand Virgins was too much 
for him. 

" None but a Confessor could have told you how to cheat me," he shrieked in 
a most cynical voice : " but I will be revenged. You have a more wonderful 
and perfect design than ever entered the brain of man. You want fame — the 
priest wants a church and pilgrims. Listen ! That cathedral shall never 

BE FINISHED, AND YOUR NAME SHALL BE FORGOTTEN ! " 

As the dreadful words broke upon his ear the cloak of the Tempter stretched 



THE PFAFFEN THOR. 



101 



out into huge black wings, which were napped over the spot like two dark 
thunder-clouds, and with such violence that the winds were raised from their 
slumber, and a storm rose upon the waters of the Rhine. Hurrying homewards, 
the relic raised at arm's length over his head, he reached the abbot's house in 
safety. But the ominous sentence still rang in his ears — unfinished and 

UNKNOWN. 

Days, months, years, passed by, and the cathedral, commenced with vigour, was 
growing into form. The architect had long before determined that an inscription 
should be engraved upon a plate of brass shaped like a cross, and be fastened 
upon the front of the first tower that reached a good elevation. His vanity 
already anticipated a triumph over the Fiend whom he had defrauded. He was 
author of a building which the world could not equal, and in the pride of his 
heart defied all evil chances to deprive him of fame. Going to the top of the build- 
ing to see where his name should be placed, he looked over the edge of the 
building, to decide if it was lofty enough to deserve the honour of the inscription, 
when the workmen were aware of a black cloud which suddenly enveloped them, 
and burst in thunder and hail. Looking round when the cloud passed away, their 
master was gone ! and one of them declared, that amidst the noise of the explosion 
he heard a wail of agony which seemed to say " unfinished and forgotten." 

When they descended the tower the body of the architect lay crushed upon the 
pavement. The Traveller beholds the building as it was on the morning when he 
fell there, and thousands have since then sought in vain to learn the name of The 
Architect of Cologne. 



Qty Paffen ®f>or. 

hen the Archbishop Conrad de Hochsteden, the founder of the Cathe- 
dral, had been gathered to his fathers, Engelbrecht of Falkenbourg 
reigned over Cologne in his stead; and a fearful tyrant he became. 
As was the case with the spiritual lords who ruled over Liege, the 
mitre of the Archbishop became a rod of iron to the citizens, until at length they 
were goaded to open rebellion. In their contests for liberty they were led by 
Hermann Grynn, a townsman who had put aside the peaceful avocations of trade 
to do battle in the good cause of his native city, and of the privileges which his 
fathers had purchased, not only with their gold, but with their blood. 

After numerous contests between the burghers and their oppressors, the cause of 
the many was triumphant, and the Archbishop was glad to agree to terms which 
he before spurned. But the truce he sought was hollow and unfaithful, and he 




102 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



said openly that if Hermann Grynn were removed, he could then reclaim with 
safety the privileges he had surrendered to the townsmen. 

This treacherous speech was greedily drunk up by two priests, who deter- 
mined to work their own welfare by the downfal of the citizen patriot. Making 
acquaintance with Hermann, whose honest nature suspected no treachery, they 
wormed themselves into his confidence, and sought an opportunity of inviting him 
to the Cathedral, to see its hidden beauties and great store of riches. Leading him 
from chapel to cloister, and through chamber after chamber, they came at length 
to a door, which they said contained the richest sight of all ; and one of them, 
unlocking the door, invited the citizen to enter. No sooner had he crossed the 
threshold than the thick portal was closed suddenly upon him, and at the same 
moment he heard the roar of some wild animal, and saw fixed upon him two fierce 
eye-balls glowing with hunger and savage rage. 

Hermann Grynn was a man for emergencies. Rapidly twisting his cloak 
round his left arm, and drawing his short sword, he prepared for the attack ; 
nor had he long to wait. With a growl of triumph a huge animal sprang upon 
him with open jaws ; but with admirable coolness the hero received his assailant 
upon the clothed arm, and whilst the brute ground its teeth into the cloak, he 
thrust his sword into its heart. Searching round the chamber he was aware of a 
window concealed by a shutter, and opening this he looked forth into the streets, 
where a great crowd was collected around a priest, who went along telling some 
tale which seemed to move the people to deep grief. As the throng drew nearer 
he listened eagerly, and heard with surprise " how the good burgess Hermann 
Grynn, the friend of the people, and the well beloved ally of the Church, had 
without advice sought a chamber where a lion was in durance, and had fallen a 
sacrifice to his unhappy curiosity." Burning with rage and a determination to 
expose the treachery of the priests, he waited till the crowd came beneath the 
window from which he looked ; and then, dashing the glass into a thousand pieces, 
he attracted attention to the spot, and leaning half out of the opening, displayed 
his well-known cap in one hand, and his bloody sword in the other. He was 
almost too high to be heard, but the faint echo of his war-cry was enough to con- 
vince the people of his identity, and with one voice they shouted " To the rescue !" 
Forcing their way into the Cathedral, they quickly released their leader, and 
learning from him the story of cruel treachery, the two priests were ferreted from 
their hiding-places, and hanged by the neck in the room over the body of the dead 
lion. To this day the portal they slammed on Hermann Grynn is known as the 
Pfaffen Thor — the Priest's door — whilst over the gate of the venerable town- 
hall of Cologne, The Traveller may yet see, graven in stone, the fight of the 
citizen-patriot with the hungry lion of the Cathedral. 



ST. URSULA AND THE EUEVEN THOUSAND VIRGINS. 



103 



Such are two of the traditions of the Cathedral ; but that building has not the 
monopoly of such tales, for scarcely a church in Cologne but has its mystery, its 
marvellous saintly story, or its legend. One of these fragments of romance that 
have lived through more than a thousand years has for its heroine an English 
Royal lady. 

£t. Ursula anfc tije <&\tbtn 23jousan& Ftrmns. 

j^ ^^^k . . rsT two centuries after the birth of Christ, Yionest was king 
of Britain. Happy in his realm, his subjects were prosper- 
ous and contented, but care was in the heart of the monarch, 
for he was childless. At length his consort Daria bore 
him a daughter, who as she grew up in years increased in 
holiness, until all men regarded her as a saint, and she, de- 
voting herself to a religious life, refused all offers of marriage, 
to the great grief of her parents, who were again troubled 
by the thought that their dynasty would fail for want of an 
jj heir. Charmed with the rumour of her virtues, a German prince, Agrippus, 
J asked her as a wife for his son, but the suit was declined by the maiden until 
j t an angel appeared to her in a dream, and said that the nuptials ought to 
Bp take place. In obedience to this heavenly mentor, St. Ursula no longer urged 
her former scruples, and her father hastened to make preparations of suitable mag- 
nificence for her departure to the Rhine, on whose banks her future home was 
to be. Eleven thousand virgins were selected from the noblest families of Britain 
to accompany their princess, who, marshalling them on the sea-shore, bade them 
sing a hymn to the Most High, and dismiss all fears of the ocean, for she had been 
gifted with a divine knowledge of navigation, and would guide them safely on 
their way. Accordingly St. Ursula dismissed all the seamen, and standing on 
the deck of the principal vessel, she gave orders to her Eleven Thousand Maiden 
Followers, who, under the influence of inspiration, flitted over the ships dressed 
in virgin white, now tending the sails, now fixing the ropes, now guiding the helm, 
until they reached the mouth of the Rhine, up which they sailed in saintly procession 
to Cologne. Here they were received with great honours by the Roman Governor 
of the place ; but soon they left the city, to ascend the stream to Basle on their 
way to Rome, to which holy city St. Ursula had determined upon making a pil- 
grimage. Wherever on their journey they met the officers of state they were 
received as befitted their heavenly mission, and from Basle were accompanied by 
Pantulus, who was afterwards canonised, and whose portrait is to be seen in the 
church of St. Ursula. Once at Rome the Pope himself, Cyriacus, was so stricken 





104 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



by their devoted piety, that, after praying with them at the tombs of the apostles, 
he determined on abdicating the pontifical office, to accompany them on their return 
down the Rhine to Cologne. 

At Mayence they were joined by Prince Coman, the son of Agrippus, who for 
love of his betrothed at once forsook the errors of the pagan faith and was 
baptized. The Eleven Thousand Virgins with their sainted leader, her husband, 
and Pope Cyriacus, passed rapidly to Cologne, where, however, they were not 
long destined to live in peace. A horde of barbarians from the North invaded 
the place, and having gained possession of the city, they slew with horrible tortures 
the virgin retinue of St. Ursula, the venerable Pope, the saint herself, and her 
spouse Coman. Some were nailed living to the cross ; some were burned ; others 
stoned ; but the most refined cruelties were reserved for the most distinguished 
victims. Look on the walls of the Church of St. Ursula, and you will behold the 
sufferings of the young martyr and of her youthful husband. Her chapel yet 
contains her effigy with a dove at her feet — fit emblem of her purity and loving 
faith and kindness ; whilst the devout may, in the same church, behold the 
religiously- preserved bones of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. 

ologne has much to boast of besides its legends. 

The skulls of the Three Kings still grin from under their 
crowns in the Cathedral, as they did when Frederick Barbarossa 
stormed Milan and brought these relics of the Three Magi to 
this city. Before the time of the French Revolution, these 
ancient skulls were surrounded by more gold and precious 
stones than the head of any living king in Christendom ; but during those 
troublous days the riches faded rapidly away. At present the jewels of their 
shrine are valued at six millions of francs ! The Cathedral also holds under its 
pavement the heart of Maria de Medicis, who in her fallen fortunes sought a 
refuge in Cologne, and there died in the house (10. Sternen Gasse) where Rubens 
was born. An ancient painting is also pointed out as the picture of the building, 
the Dombild. Its age rather than its beauty forms its great claim to notice. It 
displays the patron saints of Cologne: — the Three Magi Kings adoring the 
Saviour ; St. Ursula and her Virgin Followers ; and St. Gereon. 

In the church of St. Peter is a picture presented to it by Rubens himself, 
in memory of the fact that at its altar he was baptized. The subject is the Cruci- 
fixion of the Patron Saint of the Church, and it attracted the criticism of Sir 
Joshua Reynolds, who said: — "It was painted a little time before Rubens's death. 
The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is 
finely coloured, and well drawn; but the figure bends too suddenly from the 




THE CHURCHES OF COLOGNE. 



105 




PEE BIKTB-PLACB OF RUBENS. 



thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a 
bad taste of drawing ; as is likewise his 
arm, which has a short interrupted outline. 
The action of the malefactors has not that 
energy which he usually gave to his figures. 
Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses 
his own approbation of this picture, which 
he says was the best he ever painted; he 
likewise expresses his content and happi- 
ness in the subject, as being picturesque ; 
this is likewise natural to such a mind 
as that of Rubens, who was perhaps too 
much looking about him for the picturesque, 
or something uncommon. A man with his 
head downwards is certainly a more ex- 
traordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this picture are so 
feebly drawn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting that 
Rubens died before he had completed it, and that it was finished by some of his 
scholars. " Wilkie also visited this church, and gave his modicum of praise to 
this painting. 

Santa Maria in Capitolo stands on the spot where stood the Capitol of the 
Roman masters of the town. St. Pantaleon claims to be the most ancient church 
in the city, dating as far back as A. d. 980, when it was reared from the stones of 
the Roman bridge which before that time stretched across to Deutz : the Chapel 
of the Minorites contains the tomb of Duns Scotus, and a horrible tale is told of 
his entombment alive, of his revival in his coffin, his struggle to escape, and his 
body found afterwards at the closed door of the sepulchre, with the hand eaten off 
by himself ere he died of hunger. St. Gereon's displays the bones of the legion 
of Theban martyrs ; whilst many other churches which, if existing alone, might be 
the boast of any town, are passed over from the riches of Cologne in Gothic archi- 
tecture. Indeed the city still deserves its old cognomen of the Rome of the 
North ; and should the world be favoured with thirty years more peace, there is 
little doubt that the Cathedral, now in process of repair and increase, will escape 
from the ban recounted in the Legend, and, rising to completion, be the Gothic 
architectural glory of Northern Europe. True to its old Romish cognomen, the 
city of Cologne, like Rome itself, still maintains its Carnival, which a traveller who 
witnessed it in the spring of 1845 describes in the " New Monthly Magazine" 
of Mr. Colburn, — a description here condensed, since it conveys a faithful 
picture of a festival enjoyed by the Germans with more gusto than would be 
expected from their usually phlegmatic character. 



106 



THE RHINE HOOK. 



Wfyt Carmbal at (Cologne. 

On the 3d of February was celebrated the annual Carnival of Cologne, presenting a scene 
throughout all the principal streets, singularly at variance with the habitual grave, quiet and 
business-like atmosphere which pervades that old city. The Carnival lasts three days, but the 
grand day was the one which we describe. 

The weather (which had been bad in the morning) began to clear up a little over head, the 
streets assumed a less dingy appearance, a number of maskers and fancy dresses issued forth, the 
windows were rapidly filling with ladies and children, up to the top stories, and from the roofs of 
opposite houses cords were extended across the streets, upon which were hung large banners, 
flags, devices of all colours, and jack-pudding figures of the size of life, all waving and swinging 
together over the crowds that passed below. All the shop-Avindows had the shutters up, except a 
few that sold masks. We followed the stream through several streets, all decorated over head in 
the same manner, and the windows filled with spectators, many of whom were also perched upon 
the tops of the houses, or sitting like a row of sparrows along the parapet, till we arrived at the 
Neu-Markt, a large open square, with double lines of trees encompassing it, and where the military 
usually attend parades and exercise, the caserne, or barrack, fronting it on one side. This large 
space was roped in, upon the present occasion, on the inside of the surrounding trees, and the ropes 
were defended from intruders by soldiers placed at intervals. A crowd had therefore collected on 
the outside of the ropes all round the square, and within this space the various cars, and orna- 
mental carts, and waggons, and platforms on wheels, and horsemen, and bands of music, and mimes, 
and mummers, and masqueraders were fast assembling. We soon discovered that this sacred 
enclosure was penetrable by the payment of ten silber groschen (about one shilling English), and 
We accordingly entered, and had an opportunity of making more close and undisturbed observations 
than could otherwise have been obtained. But it will give the reader a much better idea of the 
scene to describe the effect of the whole, as the cortege passed through the different streets. 
Having seen all the "rout" of men and women, and " pleasant monsters" in detail, we took up a 
station on a high ground, to see the whole pass in succession, and now invite the reader to place 
himself at our side. 

Several horsemen, in fancy dresses, advance at the head of the procession, which slowly winds 
its way, in a long train, out of the great square, and commences its passage through all the 
principal streets of the city. Among the horsemen, the most conspicuous is a very large man, 
with a smiling rosy face, attired in a flesh-coloured tight dress, with the skin of a wild beast over 
his shoulders, and bearing a club, the thicker or bossy end of which is formed by the insertion of 
a knuckle of ham, at once presenting a warlike outline and a festive idea. Behind him ride others 
who carry bottles and flasks slung at their sides, and one very good-natured, humorous old 
countryman is seated astride upon a small barrel, the barrel being fastened upon the horse's back 
in place of the saddle. 

A cottage, mounted upon a waggon or platform on wheels, next makes its appearance. In 
front of it stands a large Christmas tree, full of golden fruit, and fairy gifts, and bags of money, 
or something better. The roof of the cottage is regularly thatched, and a live crow, perched upon 
the top near the chimney, is evidently a very unwilling participator in the scene, and flaps his 
wings and opens his bill in wrath at his inability to escape. 

Soon after this we see a balloon, of red and white, come bobbing along over the heads of the 
crowds that line the street on each side, and we presently discover that this is intended to represent, 
a supply, and is affixed to the centre of a large silver boat, in which stand various figures, attired 



THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 



107 



in what they fancy to be sailors' dresses, but having rather the appearance of pastrycooks, or 
stewards on board a steamer bound for "an excursion." They present printed songs to the 
spectators. 

But what little thick figure is that which now comes hopping and skipping, on tip-toe, through 
the muddy streets in a flesh-coloured dress? His fleshings fit tight to his shape, and his shape 
is not unlike that of the " fat boy" in Boz. His face and hands, though painted, are absolutely 
blue with the cold. The cold shows through every wing. You can see that his knees are cold. 
He has a pair of golden things of the shape of pancakes, that hang in hopeless inactivity from 
his shoulders, and also a pair of wings at his feet, exactly like the fins of a dead porpoise. It is a 
German Mercury ! He has got a cigar to comfort him, which some considerate friend in the 
crowd has just placed in his eager hands. 

A truly splendid figure soon makes up for this. A band of music heralds its advance. It is 
a gigantic king, in an embroidered crimson mantle and vest, ornamented with gold devices, and 
edged with white fur. He has a very handsome face of royal happiness. Glossy, jet-black curls 
hang in profusion over his shoulders, and he is mounted upon a grand jet-black horse of colossal 
size — quite a show of itself, and not clumsy, but of dignified heroic action, and appearing conscious 
of its own noble presence upon the great occasion. 

The tolling of a bell is now heard, and, turning the corner of the street, high as the second-floor 
windows of the houses, we see a steeple appear ! It is attached to a little church, and passes on 
its way, the bell constantly announcing its approach. It distributes songs and other printed 
effusions as it proceeds. 

A troop of Tyrolese now come singing their way along. Very badly indeed they sing. It is 
not only unlike the Tyrolese, but not good singing of any kind. A troop of brigands follow, and 
there are many bandits in Italian costumes on horseback. The best and most grotesque figure of 
a group mixing with these latter is one who is mounted upon a very strangely-accoutred horse, 
and upon his head he wears a sort of heraldry dolphin as a helmet — his face looking out of the 
open jaws, while the body and tail of the fish, writhing upright and slanting back, form an excellent 
ornamental top. 

Preceded by a band of indifferent music, a large platform drawn by four horses advances. 
Various figures in fancy dresses are stationed upon it, and one of them has a very long, thin pole, 
at the top of which he continually sticks a song, a ballad, or a witticism, and hands it up to the 
spectators who occupy the windows at each side of the street, as the platform moves along. 

Numbers of figures now go huddling by — bandits, and peasants, and grotesque masquevaders, 
and characters, among whom we discover Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, but they are very bad 
representatives of those celebrated originals. The last of this group is a little knight in full 
armour, who is mounted upon a calf. The calf seems to have been partially trained for the 
performances of the day, but owing to the confusion of the scene, or his natural stupidity, he often 
forgets his lesson, and runs head-foremost into the crowd at one side, or up against a house, or 
with his nose between the wheels of the waggons and cars. Several female characters are on 
horseback ; but we are informed that nearly all of them, as well as those who are dressed like 
women or girls on the waggons and platforms, are personated by young men. 

The cortege is closed with a sort of moving framework, surrounded by a number of leafless 
trees and shrubs, and having a squalid hut at one end, at the door of which a woman, dressed like 
the wife of a " half-starved gardener," and with a face quite purple with the cold, stands smoking 
a pipe. Two soldiei's, in uniform, appear as the very unnecessary guards of this most uninviting 
garden and woman. At the back of the hut is written " Wintergarten.'" They give songs as they 
pass. 



108 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Selecting one of these songs, we offer the following translation 



Wiialiuv-ffltlaMt. 



Be brisk ! — to horse and waggon ! 

Be brisk ! — no long delays ! 
Thought's lost in flask and flagon, 

In these our mirth-mad days. 
Make way ye high-neck'd tyros, 

Who think yourselves too tall, 
With carnival-made heroes, 

To jig it at the ball. 



All pride this day is buried, 

Each man's a hero true, 
His eye will find its pleasure 

In all that's bright and new. 
Now rich and poor are equal ; 

No rank — no work — all play 
Beginning, middle, sequel, 

It is one laugh all day. 



See ye the waggons motley ! 

See ye the full mask'd ball ! 
With the crowd's pressure carried, 

You must see one and all ! 
Repent your deeds, you sinner, 

Pluck up the world's bad weeds, 
Plant fancies of the children, 

The first of all good seeds. 



Back ! back ! you Speculators ! 

No buying, selling here ; 
No cake and sugar traffic, 

No money for your beer ! 
Give, or get out ! — be merry, 

For none shall come our way, 
Who will not most sincerely, 

Be fools with us to-day ! 



These songs are of various character, some of them written in Low German, provincial dialect, 
or patois, full of puns and local allusions, and are, consequently, not translatable. These, therefore, 
we must pass over, but of the intelligible sort a brief specimen may not be uninteresting to English 
readers. We should premise that the most prevalent armament for a gentleman's head during the 
Carnival is a Fool's cap. Nor is the fashion confined to Cologne ; for at Mainz (Mayence) during 
this period there was one grand assemblage in the " Hall of Fools," where some four or five 
hundred gentlemen sat down to dinner in these caps. A procession also took place in Bonn, 
comprising horsemen and vehicles of all kinds, when the number of caps could not have been less 
than two or three thousand. One of the songs thus commences : - 



Jovial, joyous, fresh and free, 
Wearers of Fools'-caps are we ! 
On horseback in procession gay 
Through the streets we take our way, 
Gazing upward as we go 
At ladies, laughing in a row 
To hear us sing Halli-hallo. 



2. 



For dinner soon we throng the hall. 
But wearing still our Fools'-caps tall — 
Caps with several folds and points, 
Of white and red like lobster-joints : 
But lobster boil'd look'd ne'er so bright, 
Nor ever yet was half so light 
As heads will be this merry night. 



Here is the first verse of a song in honour of beer, which is said to have had its origin in the 
genius of a royal brewer, and to have been " invented " by a Dutch king named Kambrinus. 



Heil dir, Kambrinus, unserm Hort 
Im frohen Festverein, &c. 

All hail, Kumbrinus, our defender, 
Refuge, rejoicer, great Beer-sender, 
In this our holyday-time, &c. 



The song is accompanied by sundry witticisms on the brewing abilities of various cities and 
provinces, under such titles as " Bairisches Bier," " Heidelberger Faulenpelzbier," " Dresdner 
Waldschlossbier," " Braunschweiger Mumm," " Berliner kuehle Blonde," " Englischer Ale," &c. 

Now that all the motley train has moved away, and nearly all the spectators too, we hurry off 
towards our hotel. But we meet a crowd on the way, and suddenly learn that there is a second 
cortege close at hand, larger than the first. Our progress is impeded by its advance up the 
Hoch- Strasse ; to retreat is impossible, for the crowds are now pressing this way from all quarters. 
We are compelled to witness the whole train, and resolving therefore to make the best of the 



THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 



109 



necessity, we forget our cold and wet condition, and take notes in our pocket-book, from which 
the following is transcribed. 

First comes a handsome horseman, in a rich dress, carrying a very large and most beautifully 
embroidered banner. 

He is followed by a small car, containing several odd -looking figures. The car is drawn by two 
men in the dress of Prussian peasants, but with pigs' heads. These latter attract more attention 
than those in the car. Of course, it will be understood that these cars, and waggons, and wheel- 
platforms, all present figures and devices emblematic of something — " best known to themselves," 
and to the good folks in Cologne, in most instances ; but occasionally being obviously no more 
than the display, as we see occasionally in our own country, of the handicraft and vain-glory of 
certain trades and companies. 

After this, we descry two excellently grotesque figures of Cupid and Psyche, mounted upon a 
gigantic cock and hen. The classical lovers, as well as the fowls, are excessively fat, the former 
having a cherubic roundness of limbs and cheeks, and wearing wreaths of roses round their heads. 
The cock and hen are admirably contrived, and walk with a coquettish air. 

Immediately behind these advances a numerous brass band on horseback and in uniform, every 
one of whom has a grandmother's bonnet upon his head. 

Close upon the band come a group of dancers, apparently intended to represent Swiss peasantry. 
Considering the uneven stones, the snow-slush, and muddy water through which they tread the 
" giddy maze," and the undoubted coolness of the " fantastic toe," they really deserve the highest 
credit for the apparent hilarity with which they continue their pastime. 

A car now approaches, which ever and anon produces a great sensation in the crowd on each 
side. The car is laden in front with cake. Cakes of the size of large tea-boards are piled 
upon each other. They are of a sweet spongy kind, and great pieces are continually broken off 
by the figures in the car, and thrown among the spectators in the streets. If the scrambling for 
the songs and witticisms is considerable, the efforts to obtain the cake are of a kind which 
approaches the desperate ; all, however, in good-humour ; much struggling, but no fighting. 

A colossal chariot of triumph now appears, the most lofty and splendid of all the train. The 
body of the chariot is of the shell shape, and is supported upon the back of a fierce dragon, whose 
open jaws are seen in front, while his immense tail writhes out behind, and his huge, forky 
wings of green and gold are spread out at each side. The wheels of the chariot are of a bright 
silver hue, but raised upon an invisible framework, which moves upon wheels underneath. In 
the chariot are seated a splendidly attired king and queen, perhaps of ancient Greece, but more 
probably of some of the fabulous countries of romance. The whole is drawn by six white horses. 
It reminds us of some of the descriptions in the " Knight's Tale " of Chaucer. A higher compli- 
ment we could not pay it. 

Several grotesque figures on foot pass onward in the train, among which are two double drums, 
and two contre-bassos, all walking upright, and apparently of their own accord, with an occasional 
reeling motion, as if about to commence a dance. The drums are fellows of no "expression," 
their outline wants character, but the double-basses look like strange Brobdignag insects of the 
beetle genus. 

Some chorus singing is next attempted, but it is as abominable as other noises of a similar kind 
which have issued from sundry cars and waggons. Upon such an occasion as this one would have 
thought that a city like Cologne might have furnished something decent for its own sake, to say 
nothing of the musical reputation of Germany. But all the choruses were abortive, and often 
mere vulgar discords. They were worse even than the singing of the students by night in the 
streets of Bonn. 



110 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Is it the god Pluto who now advances in his dark chariot ? Yes, he is a Pluto, and surrounded 
by various characteristic attendants. He is probably the emblematic representative of some large 
company of manufacturers of iron, brass, copper, and other metals. We suspect that underneath 
a canopy in the centre of the platform he has had the good sense to secrete a stove with a fire 
in it. 

Following Pluto comes a sort of Ironmonger's shop, raised upon a square platform ; and upon 
high rails there hang at the four quarters many sorts of cooking utensils — pots, pans, ovens, 
saucepans, strainers, boilers, fish-kettles, and even tea-kettles — though to obtain water really boiling, 
to make tea, is nearly impossible in Germany, and as for the tea, it is chiefly furnished from the 
hedges, if one may judge by the taste, and also by examining the leaves when wet and opened out. 
The occupants of this moveable shop have black faces, and they distribute songs. 

The next waggon displays what looks something like the press-room of a Printing Office. But 
the printers have all got asses' heads ! Why this should be, and what satire is meant to be con- 
veyed by it, we do not understand. Does it point to the " press " in Germany, which is any 
thing but free? Does it mean to tell us that strong slaves are fools (being strong) to continue 
slaves ? We do not know. 

A Toy-shop moves onwards in the train, hung round with toys in the same style as the pots and 
pans of the ironmonger's. 

This is followed by a large platform, displaying a harvest, with wheatsheaves, and male and 
female harvesters. The harvesters are dancing, with implements of husbandry in their hands, 
to the imminent danger, as it sometimes appears, of cutting off each other's heads with reap-hooks, 
and other formidable emblems of peace. 

A still larger platform follows, of a higher poetical character, not unworthy of a few stanzas in 
the " Faery Queene." It displays a large palm-tree in the centre, round which various figures of 
" old romance " are congregated. At each corner of the front, uplifted and reclining upon open 
carved work, a girl in white robes is playing upon a golden harp ; and at the two corners behind 
similar figures are also seen. The effect was beautiful, and, alas ! too transitory. 

It is not necessary to tell the English public that German Sausages are of long-established 
celebrity ; but the aforesaid public has no notion of the great variety, as to taste, size, texture, 
colour, shape, wholesomeness and unwholesomeness, which the prolific and inventive genius of the 
country produces. Accordingly it was impossible that the opportunity of a grand display afforded 
by the Carnival could be lost by the compilers of that richly savoury but most ungraceful article, or 
by the witty amateurs of the same. The shop on wheels which now approaches is hung all round 
with innumerable sausages of all descriptions, from the small, ordinary size, to those which are as 
large as the thickest part of a boa-constrictor — red, pink, brown, puce-coloured, putty-coloured, 
yellow, mottled, and jet black. At the front of the platform hang from each corner half a pig, 
the halves being very large, flattened, and cured, but certainly not yet claiming the rank of bacon. 
In the centre of the shop, a number of manufacturers stand round a block, and chop sausage-meat, 
singing a patois chorus with the chopping accompaniment. Here is a verse. 

Bring forth the pig's meat, Butcherlings bold ; 

Hack ! hack ! &c. 
And the beef, and the veal, in sweet herbs roll'd ; 

Hack ! hack ! &c. 
Bring forth all rascals who live in Cologne, 

Hack ! hack ! &c. 
And we'll soon make them honest and clean — to the bone, 

Hack ! hack ! &c. 



THE CARNIVAL AT COLOGNE. 



Ill 



An edifice, very like a large summer-house, is the next thing that engages our attention. But 
we are prevented from further observation by seeing what follows it, which is the last platform of 
the cortege, and is so broad that it nearly fills up the street. The crowd press backwards, on 
each side — some rush forwards, others stoop down to allow certain moveable portions of the 
paraphernalia to take their course overhead. It seems to be drawn by six grey horses. The 
confusion has become so great that we are only able to see an immense barge-like car — if we 
mistake not — over the sides of which are extended long and broad gilded oars, and these go 
slowly sweeping along the streets, taking off hats and caps from the crowd in their passage onward, 
knocking against many heads, and threatening windows by thumping occasionally against the 
shutters. A crowd follows it behind, leaping up every now and then to obtain the songs or 
witticisms which it distributes. 

It is all over so far ; and the next thing to be done is to hurry to our hotel, and change the wet 
and soiled habiliments. It is now two o'clock. The usual dinner-hour of the hotels is one o'clock, 
but during Carnival days we are informed that the hour is half-past two. Our time we therefore 
portion out for the rest of the day in the following manner : - — first, dinner, which will probably 
terminate about four o'clock ; then the Kunstreiterei (horsemanship), which is excellent in 
Cologne ; then the Puppen-theater, where plays are acted by dolls, who fairly walk about upon a 
stage, "the words" being spoken for them by invisible interlocutors; then the theatre, or musical 
entertainments or farces of whatever kind may be going forward ; then supper, and a long medita- 
tion upon the vanities of the world while reclining upon a sofa; and finally to go to the famous 
masked ball at the Giirzenich. 

A word may be said about the dinner. The Germans laugh excessively at the description of 
an English public dinner when the various dishes are mentioned. When one is accustomed to 
the German cookery, the dishes do not, in general, appear strange, yet to those who have not heard 
of such " compositions" before, some of the following, which were served upon the present occasion, 
may seem peculiar. We had baked beef, with salad and preserved plums ; potatoes fried with 
vinegar and sugar, and potatoes and milk and water, covered with fried, and very greasy, bread 
crumbs ; stewed veal with carrots, and red pickled cabbage with sugar; baked ducks with pickled 
cherries, or brandy cherries rather sour ; salmon in a sauce of oil and white batter ; and turnips 
dressed with butter, and grated cinnamon, &c. Then came the puddings (black-puddings 
inclusive) and preserves of apples, pears, and prunes, and various sweet or savoury things, and 
then, according to custom, slices of hot baked mutton, with a rich sauce. After this the dessert 
begins slowly to come iu, during which the dressed characters (among whom we recognised the 
King and Queen of the splendid dragon-chariot in the second cortege) rise, and contrive to dance 
in a very narrow space, which is gained by pushing one of the tables a little aside. Other of the 
Carnival heroes walk about the room and make speeches, some of which are full of political 
allusions, carefully enveloped in jokes, but occasionally bordering upon high treason, and producing 
applause and laughter. 

The heroes and dancers resumed their seats ; there was no other attempt at supporting a 
character; throughout the day the " dresses" were the principal "actors." The band now began 
to play a well-known air, which had been some years since composed for the Carnival, and the 
whole happy company at each table took part in it in the following manner. One of the heroes 
took the post of leader of the chorus, and sung the air with the band, accompanied by the whole 
room. With the beginning of the next verse, or recommencement of the air, the leader set the 
example of clapping his hands "to the tune," and this hand-clapping accompaniment was accord- 
ingly made by all present. The leader next began to whistle with the band, and we all whistled. 
The next thing was to tap the wine glasses with the back of the dessert-knives, which produced 



112 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



a multitudinous ringing and jingling sound, and, of course, many glasses were broken by ambitious 
performers. Marking time, or beating the " melody" with the feet upon the floor, followed this, 
with a sounding, unanimous, solid, satisfactory effect. The next " variation" upon this very 
original melody, was that of rattling the plates upon the table ; and because, at the conclusion, 
enough plates had not been broken, a number of gentlemen broke their plates upon their own 
heads, the white fragments falling upon their shoulders, and down their backs in all directions. 
Then we had an imitation of the braced drum, everybody drumming upon the table with the 
handles of his knife and fork ; a harsh noise, in which the band could scarcely be heard. A 
laughing accompaniment followed, and was very well executed by us all. 

The festive days being concluded, many heroes, heroines, and all devout persons, betake them- 
selves to church on Aschenmittwoch (Ash Wednesday), and make the sign of the cross upon their 
foreheads with water in which ashes have been cast, by way of expressing penitence for having 
been more merry than wise during the Carnival. 



COLOGNE. 



113 



INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




COI.OONE. 



1 Cathedral. 

2 New Market. 

3 Old Market. 

4 Square of the Cathedral. 

5 Palace of Justice. 

6 Arsenal. 

7 Archbishop's Palace. 

8 Theatre. 

9 Wallraff 's Museum. 

10 Town Hall. 

11 Trade Hall. 

12 Exchange. 

13 Casino. 

14 General Post Office. 

15 Hospital for Citizens. 



16 Royal Bank. 

17 Qua; tor Rhine Steam-boats. 
IS On ay for Lower Rhine boats. 

19 Severin Strasse. 

20 Perlengraben. 

21 Blaubach. 

22 Nachelskaule. 

23 Muhlbach. 

24 Malzbuchel. 

25 Hochpforte. 

26 Hoch Strasse. 

27 Grosse Neugasse. 
2S Johannis Strasse. 

29 Eigelstein Strasse. 

30 Machabaer Strasse. 



31 Unter Kranenbiiumen. 

32 Alter Graben. 

33 Zeughaus Strasse. 

34 Breite Strasse. 

35 Schilderer Strasse. 

36 St. Cecilien Strasse. 

37 Gereon Strasse. 

38 Friedrich W'ilhem Strasse. 

39 Am Bollwerk. 

40 St. Cunebertsufer. 

In Deutz. 

41 Church. 

42 Barracks. 



COLOGNE. 



Royale. Cour Imperiale. 

Hollande. Cologne. 

Imperial. Grosse Rheinburg. 

Belle Vue, (across the river.) 

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN COLOGNE. 

1. The Cathedral. 

2. The Museum. 



3. The Church of the Jesuits. 

4. The Church of St. Ursula. 

5. The " Roman Tower." 

6. The Church of the Apostles. 

7. The Church of St. Peter's. 

8. The Church of St. Mary. 

9. The Gurzenich. 

10. The Town Hall, (Rathhaus). 

11. The Birth-place of Rubens. 



Q 



114 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



The Cathedral is built in the form of a 
cross, the arches supported by a quadruple row 
of 64 columns, including the semi-columns; 
and, if we include those of the portico, there 
are more than one hundred. The four columns 
in the middle are 30 feet in circumference ; and 
each of the hundred columns is surmounted by 
a capital different from the others. The two 
towers, which were intended to be 500 feet high, 
remain unfinished, the northern one being not 
more than 21 feet above the ground, and the 
other is little more than half the intended height 
The great bell weighs 25,000 lbs. At the top 
of this tower, the crane used in raising the stones 
brought from the mountain of Drachenfels is 
still seen. The choir and the chapels are the 
only finished portions of the cathedral ; but 
workmen are busy in the attempt to complete 
the building. God speed them ! 

The Shrine of the Three Kings is made 
a puppet-show of, like Westminster Abbey and 
St. Paul's, London. The fee to the showman 
is six francs ; and tourists frequently either 
leave it unseen (which is wrong), or make up a 
party (as the fee is the same for six as for one) ; 
and so gaze on the relics, and cheat the Swiss 
of the excessive fee he ought not to be allowed 
to take. Another hint for the King of Prussia ! 
In the cathedral should be seen the pictures, 
the tombs, the library, and the shrines. 

A staircase on the left side of the choir, close 
to the eighth pillar, leads to the library of the 
cathedral, and to the hall called Goldene Kammer 
(Golden Chamber). The library formerly 
contained a very fine collection of books, and a 
great number of manuscripts of the time of 
Charlemagne, all of which were taken away 
during the Revolution. The doors of the 
library are curiously carved, and the wardrobes 
contain the dresses of the priests. 

The Church of St. Mary of the Capitol. 
— The upper part of the choir, and the colon- 
nade of round arches, were built in the eighth 
century ; but the greater part of the church, 
particularly the top of the nave, appears to have 
been re-constructed in the fourteenth, the church 
having suffered much during the invasion of the 



Normans. In this church are several ancient 
pictures. It has likewise a superb organ. 

The Church of St. Gereon was built in 
1066, by Archbishop Anno, on the same spot 
on which the temple erected by St. Helena for- 
merly stood. Its cupola, with three galleries, 
is a grand and astonishing work ; and the church 
is certainly one of the finest in Cologne. In the 
crypt are two chapels, the floors of which are 
ancient mosaic work. On the side of the altars, 
at the entrance of the church, are two pictures 
by C. Schiit and Geldorf. 

The Church of St. Cunibert, near the 
Rhine, is a large building, with an altar in 
imitation of the grand altar of St. Peter's at 
Rome. 

The Church of St. Peter is built on the 
ruins of a Roman temple, the vestibule of which 
still exists. Rubens was baptized in this church 
on St. Peter's day. His picture of the Cruci- 
fixion of that Apostle is its chief attraction. The 
font in which Rubens was baptized is still 
shown here, as well as the tombstone of his 
father. 

The Convent of St. Ursula is remarkable 
for its relation to the legend of that saint and 
her eleven thousand virgins. The church is 
filled with bones. 

The Town Hall of Cologne should certainly 
be seen, as a specimen of ancient German archi- 
tecture. 

The Kafhaus of Gurzenich (commercial 
depot), has a large hall, where several Diets of 
the Empire have been held, and in which the 
Emperor Maximilian gave several fetes. 

The Church of the Jesuits is overladen 
with decorations. It contains the crosier of 
Francis Xavier and the rosary of Ignatius 
Loyola. 

The Museum of Wallraff should also be 
visited, although the pictures disappoint many 
who see them. 

Private Collections. — Haan, Baumeister, 
Merlo, Zanoli, Kaatz, Essingh, Weyer, and 
Geeling. 

The Casino, situated near the theatre, is a 
modern building, into which strangers may be 



COLOGNE. 



115 



introduced by a member : the innkeepers ge- 
nerally belong to these societies. 

Eau de Cologne is to be bought at no less 
than seventy makers. Farina's store is in Ju- 
lich's Place. 

DISTANCES FROM THE PRINCIPAL PLACES ON THE 
RHINE, EETWEEN COLOGNE AND MAYENCE, 
FOLLOWING THE TOWING-PATH. 



Cologne to Rodenkirchen 
From thence to Weiss 

Wesling 

Widdig 

Hersel 

Rheindorf 

Bonn - 

Plittersdorf - 
Mehlem 
Oberwinter 
Remagen 

Kripp, opposite Linz 

Brewig 

Brohl - 

Fornig 

Andernach 

Weissenthurm 

Urmitz 

Katten Engers 

Sebastian Engers 

Kesselheim 

Neuendorf 

Coblentz 

Capellen 

Rhens - 

Niederspey 

Oberspey 

Boppart 

Salzig - 

Hirzenach 

St. Goar 

Oberwesel 

Caub - 

Bacharach 

Lorch - 

Assmanshausen 
Bino-en 



Leagues. 
- I 



- 1 

- H 

3 
3 

- n 

- i 

- i 

- M 

- H 

- i 

5 
3 

- H 

- i 



Leagues. 

2 



Kempten 
Gaulsheim - - \ 

Freiweinheim - - 1 

Budenheim - - -2 

Mayence - - -2 

Making 41| leagues from Cologne to 
Mayence, or about 125 English miles. 
The distance from Rotterdam to Cologne is 
79f leagues, and the total length of the Rhine 
from the source to the sea 303| leagues. 

Steam-Boats. — It is at Cologne that steam- 
boats again become interesting. There are 
two companies working from Cologne up and 
down the Rhine ; the Steam Navigation Com- 
pany of the Lower and Middle Rhine, esta- 
blished in 1838, under the name of the " Dus- 
seldorf Company;" and the Rhenish Steam 
Navigation Cologne Company, established in 
1827. The boats of the two companies are dis- 
tinguishable by the chimneys of the Dusseldorf 
Company being painted white and black ; those 
of the Rhenish Steam Navigation Company 
entirely black. These boats run to Mannheim, 
From Mannheim the Baden railroad is now 
open to Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden-Baden, 
Kehl (Strasbourg), and Oftenbourg, and will 
shortly be extended to Freiburg and to Basle. 

The Dusseldorf Company's boats are — The 
Elberfeldt, Victoria, Kron-Prinz von Prussia, 
Gros Kerzogin von Hessen, Stradt Bonn, Duke 
of Nassau, Gutenberg, &c. 

FARES FROM COLOGNE BY BOTH COMPANIES. 





Pavilion. 


First 
Saloon. 


Second 
Saloon. 




fr. c. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


To Bonn - 


2 50 


1 75 


— 90 


Neuwied - 


11 40 


7 65 


3 25 


Coblentz - 


13 15 


8 75 


3 75 


Bingen 


21 90 


14 65 


6 50 


Creuznach - 


23 40 


16 15 


8 — 


Riebrich - 


24 75 


16 50 


7 40 


Wiesbaden 


25 50 


17 25 


8 15 


Mayence - 


25 — 


16 75 


7 50 


Gernsheim 


28 65 


19 15 


9 15 


Darmstadt 


30 — 


20 50 


10 50 


Mannheim 


32 75 


21 90 


11 — 



A company of five persons or under can hire 
the pavilion for their exclusive use, for which 
they have to pay seven times the pavilion fare ; 



116 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



and for every person above five, in addition, 
the fare in first cabin. 

History. — Cologne was a bishopric in the 
year 314, and, in 799, was erected into an arch- 
bishopric by Charlemagne. In the ancient 
constitution of Germany, the archbishop as- 
sumed the title of Born Legate of the Holy See, 
and arch-chancellor of the sacred empire for 
Italy. He gave his vote after the Elector of 
Treves, and sat at the right hand of the em- 
peror, at assemblies held in his own diocese, in 
Gaul, or in Italy. Cologne is situated, in the 
form of a crescent, on the banks of the Rhine, 
and is fortified ; but its walls are in so decayed 
and tottering a state, that they are incapable 
of affording much defence. The whole of its 
length, along the river, is about 2>\ miles. The 
streets are narrow, winding, and gloomy, and 
most of the houses are very lofty and old ; and 
yet this city is said to contain within its com- 
pass more churches, chapels, and monasteries, 



than there are days in the year. The vessels 
that may be always seen in the port of Cologne 
are very numerous; the quay, more than Ji 
mile long, is generally crowded with vessels. 
Under the old police, if a Jew came into the 
city, he was accompanied by a guard during 
his stay, and obliged to pay a ducat for every 
hour of his continuance there. In the year 
1618 the Protestants wei'e also expelled ; but 
some years after they obtained permission to 
return. The magistrates indeed gave them 
leave to erect a place of worship, which was 
destroyed by the infatuated mob as soon as it 
was finished. Near this city some pseudo-vol- 
canic remains have been traced, which are 
thought to be such as are mentioned by Tacitus 
at the close of the 13th book of his Annals, the 
effects of subterranean fire which ravaged the 
country of the Juhones. N. lat. 50° 55' 21". 
E. long. 6° 55'. The population at present is 
80,000. 



THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 



117 




THE DBAOHENFEW. 




THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 

O soon as the Traveller has contented himself with his visit to Cologne, 
and is ready to proceed upon his way, he has choice of reaching 
Bonn " by Rhine or by railway. " If he has a liking for his bed in 
the morning, the chemin de fer must be his choice, but if he possesses 
the happy power of rising early, he will then take his seat upon the 
deck of the steamer. 

As the banks have yet but little interest, he may amuse himself by scanning the 
story of the marauders of this neighbourhood, whose exploits surprised all Europe. 

The fullest and best account of the Robbers of the Rhine — the modern 
prototypes of the old freebooters, — was furnished, in 1833, by Mr. Leitch Ritchie, 
in his Travelling Sketches. 

" Towards the close of the French Revolution," says the author of the Romance of French 
History, " the banks of the Rhine, and the surrounding country from Holland to Mainz, were the 
theatre of exploits as strange and wild, and the haunt of men as extraordinary, as any that are 
exhibited in history. The French laws were not yet in full operation in Belgium, nor the conflict 
of opinion and parties at an end. Every thing was in confusion. The very elements of society 
seemed to have been broken up and disorganized by the moral earthquake that had occurred. A 
lawless and reckless spirit pervaded all ranks of people, and made room, in individual cases, for 
the development of talents and energies that, under ordinary circumstances, would have continued 
to slumber in embryo. 



118 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



" Energies so called up must, like spirits summoned by sorcery, be evil in tbeir nature; and 
accordingly a reign of terror commenced, scarcely less extraordinary than the events of the 
Revolution itself. From Belgium a criminal could easily pass into Holland if pursued, or into 
the countries bordering the Rhine; and there the minute subdivisions of the Germanic Confede- 
ration, in which each petty prince maintained a jealous independence of the rest, rendered pursuit 
almost hopeless. The policy, therefore, of great criminals, in their choice of localities, will be 
easily comprehended. 

" But, as the genius of individuals began to gather together the elements of lawless power, and 
unite the various little roving bands in one compact society, it was seen that the magnitude of the 
mass would force the alarmed governments into a league against them, and that thus their very 
strength would prove their destruction. How to obviate this difficulty was the question — how 
to increase rather than diminish their numbers, and to tighten rather than relax the bond of union, 
without presenting any tangible surface to the authorities ; and, out of the speculations on this 
knotty point, there arose at length one of the most remarkable associations that are mentioned 
in history. 

" The known and ostensible members of the band were diminished in number, rather than 
increased, by the new constitution. These, under the captain-ship of some individual raised to the 
post by his courage or talents, inhabited as their head-quarters an old castle or ruined mill ; or 
pitched their wandering camp in the recesses of a forest. It was, in fact, easy to find a harbour 
capable of accommodating a much larger force, in times when so many country families had fled for 
refuge, from the horrors of war, to the more populous and protected towns. The roads between 
town and town were for the same reason comparatively deserted, except by travellers and 
merchants : and the villages cut off from all peaceable inter-communication. 

" Having fixed upon a camp, or rendezvous, the next important step was to secure the safe passage 
of the bandits through the territory, by establishing every where a line of posts, affording succour 
and shelter in case of need. This was easily arranged by enlisting in the cause the more needy 
and desperate of the innkeepers and aubergistes. Some of these, in the country parts, had been 
left helpless and alone, like stranded barks, by the ebbing tide of population ; and, as their 
profession at any rate is not suspected of predisposing strongly to honesty, they were found in 
general to enter con amove into the proposals that were made to them. 

" In the slang of the robbers — a jargon compounded of Hebrew, High and Low German, and 
French — these places of refuge were called Kochemer-beyes, whether public-houses or not; and 
there a member when pursued was sure of protection and advice ; and his address, or that of the 
band, was always to be procured by those who wanted it for a friendly purpose. To such perfection 
had this system been carried, that it is understood that a robber could travel from the farther 
extremity of Holland to the Danube, with the certainty of spending every night in the company, 
or under the protection, of friends. 

" In numerous cases, also, the functionaries of police, from the magistrate down to the lowest 
officer, were in the pay of the band; and it was frequently observed that the anxiety of a robber, 
taken even in the fact, was at once dissipated, as if by a magic spell, on the name of the worthy 
being pronounced before whom he was about to be carried. 

" Names, dress, character, complexion, and features, were changed with wonderful facility by 
these intelligent and industrious persons. Our Dutch merchant and German baron are specimens. 
As for the passports, they were managed entirely by the womankind, who had a great talent for 
business. 

" The persons we have described, however, were few in number, perhaps not more than a dozen 
men and their families. Where, then, were the banditti who kept the country in terror? — who, 



THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 



119 



amidst the noise of fire-arms that was heard over half a province, carried villages, and even towns, 
by assault, and either plundered them of their moveable riches, or held them to ransom at the 
point of the sword ? In the villages, in the towns themselves, in isolated farm-houses, in obscure 
or remote inns, were domiciled these mysterious freebooters. These were the body, and the 
former the soul ; these the executive and the former the legislative power of this invisible state. 
The former were the chiefs and their immediate attendants ; the latter the great mass of the band, 
distributed over the face of the country, inhabiting their own houses, working at their own trades 
or professions, yet ready, at a signal understood only by themselves, to vanish from their homes 
and families, and follow, wherever they were led, to the death. 

"They were called Apprentices. They were bound to the society by the most tremendous oaths 
— which they were rarely tempted to break, well knowing that an invisible dagger hung over 
their heads, which was sure to descend even on a suspicion of their falsehood. A miserable 
wretch, who had been taken by the police, and securely lodged in a dungeon, once revealed, in the 
agonies of his terror, the rendezvous of his chief — the famous Picard. The next night, while 
reflecting in horror that, even by his treachery, he had probably been unable to save his life, 
he heard his name pronounced in a whisper ; and, looking up, saw an arm passed between the 
iron bars of the window. 

" ' Who art thou ? ' inquired the robber, trembling. 

Thy master — Picard ; I have ventured my life, as in duty bound, to set thee at liberty ! ' In 
a few minutes his irons were sawed off, and one of the bars wrenched from the window-frame ; 
and, following his conductor, he scaled the wall, and scented the free air of the neighbouring forest. 
The band were ready to receive them, drawn up in a semicircle, and standing under arms, in dead 
silence. Their delivered comrade was placed in the middle. 

Schleichener ! ' said the chief, addressing him with the slang epithet for traitor, * Didst thou 
imagine that the word of treason would be unheard by Picard because it was whispered in the 
depths of a dungeon ? Die, coward, in thy guilt ! ' 

" ' Mercy ; mercy ! ' cried the wretch, as the pistol touched his ear — ' Give me death, but let it 
be in battle ! Lead me on this very night, were it to the attack of an army, and let me die upon 
the bayonets of the foe ! ' 

It must not be,' said Picard, calmly, ' thou art unworthy of the death of the brave. Comrades, 
shall the laws of the band be set aside in favour of a hound like this ? " 

"' No!' growled the deep stern voice of the lieutenant ; and the word was echoed, by some in 
cruelty, by many in dismay, till it died away like a prolonged groan in the forest. The white 
lips of the coward closed at the sound ; and a bullet, passing through his brain at the same 
moment, quieted his fears for ever. 

" Another story is told at Aix-la-Chapelle, which does not satisfy quite so well one's ideas of 
retributive justice. A fine young man of that city was enrolled as an apprentice by the ferocious 
Jikjak of Mersen, and awaited impatiently the commands of his chief, being desirous, not only of 
distinguishing himself in the career to which his follies had driven him, but of obtaining money 
enough to enable him to marry his sweetheart. It is not known whether his weakness was owing 
to love or wine, or both together ; but, unhappily, he divulged, one evening, the secret of his 
destiny to the terrified girl ; and, the next morning, he was called by Jikjak, in person, to 
accompany him in an expedition. The youth followed more in shame than fear; inwardly 
resolving to make up for his harmless treason by gaining that day a character for courage which 
should command the respect of the whole band.' 

" And yet, as he followed his mute and gloomy conductor, a misgiving, at times, came over him. 
There were numerous other apprentices, he knew, in Aix-la-Chapelle, and in the villages through 



120 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



which they passed. What kind of enterprise, then, could the renowned chieftain contemplate, in 
which he desired the assistance of only a single unknown, untried individual ? The young man 
shivered as they entered the black shade of a forest ; but, when his conductor stopped suddenly 
at a newly-made pit resembling a grave, his knees knocked together, and the hair rose upon his 
head. 

" ' Perjured traitor ! ' said the chief. ' Say thy pater-noster, for thou must die !' 

" ' I deserve death,' replied the apprentice, ' yet try me once again ! To-morrow the girl will 
be my wife, and we shall remove — far from her friends and acquaintance — wherever you command. 
Only try me ! I am as brave as thou !' 

" ' Thou hast broken the laws of the band, and therefore thou must die ! Down on thy knees, 
down ; ' and with one Herculean arm he bent him, by main force, to the earth ; while with the 
other, he raised a hatchet above his head. 

" ' Only hear me ! — ' 

" ' Reprobate ! Wilt thou die without a prayer ? ' The youth submitted ; and, by the time the 
word ' Amen ' had fairly passed his lips, the iron was deep in his brain. 

" The apprentices were evenly distributed over the country, and were prohibited from assembling, 
even at fairs, or on such casual occasions, in bodies of more than three or four. If they were seen 
by a chief in greater number, a significant sign commanded them instantly to disperse, and 
disobedience was sure to be followed by punishment. The same policy dictated the choice of 
distant scenes for their enterprises ; and it was no uncommon thing for the citizens of Mainz to be 
visited by the banditti of the Lower Meuse, or for the Weser and the Elbe to be thrown into 
consternation by the roving bands of the Rhine. 

" An important expedition was rarely undertaken except by the advice and agency of one of the 
Jewish spies, called holdovers in the slang of the freebooters. These persons no sooner became 
acquainted with the existence and locality of a booty than they opened negociations with a robber- 
chief ; and, if he came into their terms, which were usually exorbitant, made the necessary 
disclosures. An enterprise so conducted was sure to end in bloodshed and cruelty ; for the Jew, 
in order to justify the extravagance of his demand, lied and cheated, as Jews have done habitually 
from the days of Jacob. The robbers, seduced by their avarice, were only too ready to believe 
the tale in its full extent ; and their miserable victims paid in blood and torture the deficiency in 
their expected hoards. When the pillage was at length effected, the holdover usually offered to act 
also as the scherfenspieler, or receiver; and in this character bought the spoils — no doubt, a 
dead bargain. He thus made a double profit, — robbed the robbers, and spoiled the Egyptians 
twice. 

" The assembling of the band for any great enterprise was conducted with the cautious policy 
which distinguished this remarkable society. The members were generally summoned by a 
confidential messenger, or perhaps the chief in person, and set out for the rendezvous, sometimes 
alone, but never in parties exceeding three or four. Each man's mode of travelling was regulated 
by his usual habits, or by his wealth or grade in society. Some were on horseback, others in 
carriages, others on foot ; and a few had the charge of bringing waggons for the transport of the 
booty. As the way was commonly long, and broken by forests and ravines, some place on the 
route, of sufficient notoriety to be known to the whole, was appointed, and there the successive 
groups of travellers began to look anxiously out for the Kochemeresink, or direction- signs left for 
their guidance by the leaders. These, placed at the cross-ways, were sometimes merely a line 
traced upon the road, which each party, passing, intersected with a shorter line ; so that the tra- 
vellers not only knew their route, but the number of friends who had preceded them. Some- 
times, when more caution was necessary, a branch of a tree was thrown down, as if accidentally, 



THE ROBBERS OF THE RHINE. 



121 



near the road, with the greater part of the foliage on the side which it was proper to take. In all 
their strategetic measures, it will be seen that they calculated securely upon the absolute 
inviolability of their secret ; and the examples we have given show on what grounds their 
confidence was built. 

" Frequently, the journey was performed in the middle of the night, and a sign of recognition, 
therefore, was necessary, which did not depend upon the organs of vision. To whistle, the 
expedient of common thieves, would not only have been vulgar, but dangerous ; inasmuch as the 
sound, when heard in the dark, is sure to call up a thousand cut-throat associations The 
Kochemloschen, therefore, was invented, a shrill and lengthened cry ; which the belated wayfarer, 
although no doubt startled by the sound rising from the brakes and thickets as he passed, would 
be more ready to set down as the voice of owls, or evil spirits, than the call of robbers. 

" When all had, at length, reached the place of rendezvous, an inspection of arms took place, and 
the schnelles, alias pistols, were loaded. The words were then given which were to signify advance 
or retreat ; torches were distributed, to be lighted instantaneously, at a particular signal ; and 
the column moved on in profound silence. 

" The captain marched at the head of his troop, armed, besides his other weapons, with a crow-bar, 
the baton of his office. After him was carried the ram, a classical engine, used for battering down 
doors and walls. It was usually a beam of timber a dozen feet long, but, when this was not to be 
come at easily, a finger-post from the road, or a cross from the church-yard, if heavy enough to 
answer the purpose, was an excellent substitute. Then came the subalterns, bearing the other 
tools of their trade, which they called clamones ; and, finally, the private gentlemen of the band, 
armed, like the rest, to the teeth. The faces of the whole were blackened, or otherwise disguised ; 
partly to prevent the possibility of recognition, but principally to impress the attacked with the 
idea that the robbers were of the same neighbourhood — although, in reality, they had probably 
never before been within a dozen miles of the place. 

" Arrived at the bourg, or village, in which, to simplify the affair, we shall suppose that a single 
house was to be the object of attack, some persons acquainted with the localities were sent to 
muffle the church-bell, and kidnap the watchmen. These ' guardians of the night ' were very 
like the King Logs we have now exchanged in London for an infinitely worse nuisance : they 
slept themselves, and, on awaking, being indignant to find every body else asleep, roused the town 
by bawling the hour. Having tied up the watchmen in a bundle, and thrown them into a corner, 
the band marched openly upon the devoted house, surrounding it instantaneously with a cordon 
militaire. 

" No summons was given to surrender, no notification made of the coming attack. A tremendous 
shout declared the presence and purpose of the enemy ; their torches, lighted at the same instant, 
flared suddenly up like meteors in the night ; and the ram was applied to the principal entrance in 
the midst of a volley of musketry. The firing was kept up without intermission, being now especially 
directed to the windows in which any light was visible ; the astonished inmates, deprived of all 
presence of mind by the sudden noise and confusion, stood staring at one another in dismay ; and 
the rest of the town, believing that nothing less than a pitched battle was in progress in the streets, 
barricaded their doors, extinguished their lights, and hid themselves in their cellars. 

" The door at length yielded to the repeated blows of the ram, and the captain led the way into 
their land of Jewish promise. If any hesitation was evinced on the part of one of his followers, he 
turned round, and blew out his brains on the instant — such power being vested in him by the 
laws of the society. This military execution, however, was rarely necessary. Within grasp of 
their expected booty, the most timid became brave, and all rushed at once into the house, 
fighting their way, if the inmates had recovered their senses, and were in sufficient force to resist, 



122 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



till they were in possession of the field. The victims — men, women, and children — were then 
bound hand and foot, and wrapped up in mats or carpets ; the building was illuminated from the 
garret to the cellar ; and the search for plunder commenced. 

" Woe to the miserable wretches, if the promises of the holdover were not made good by the 
amount of booty ! No oaths, no protestations, could convince the robbers that the deficient treasure 
existed only in the imagination of the scoundrel Jew. Deaf at once to reason and to mercy, the 
most horrible tortures, ending sometimes in death itself, were inflicted ; and so completely did the 
passion take possession of their souls, that they looked almost with indifference upon their real 
gains, in the eagerness of their longings after more. 

" When the booty was at length collected, packed, and ready to be transported, the captain 
called off his bloodhounds. If any of these were seriously wounded, they were placed on the 
shoulders of the rest: if an alarm of rescue was heard, they were slain ; — on the principle that 
' dead men tell no tales.' When the rescue actually came, the banditti retired in military order, 
and sometimes made good their retreat under the fire of regular troops. When unmolested, they 
fired a feu dejoie, and began their march with fearful shouts and yells, waving their torches in the 
air ; but, as soon as they had reached the place of rendezvous, the lights were simultaneously extin- 
guished, their cries sunk into silence, and, separating into small groups, they vanished, like evil 
spirits in the night." 



123 



MAP 

OF THE 

BEAUTIES OF THE RHINE. 

COLOGNE TO MAYENCE, 

WITH NOTES OF REFERENCE. 



On the evening before lie leaves Cologne, the Traveller will do well to scan 
well the Map of that portion of the Rhine which is best worth knowing. He can 
then arrange his plans, and decide at what points he will stop. Bonn should be the 
first, in order that he may visit the environs of that city ; Coblentz the next, from 
whence he may, if he has time and inclination, make a voyage up the Moselle : 
above Coblentz, almost every spot at which the steamer touches is worth 
exploring, and certainly those who make the Rhine the object of their tour should 
see it thoroughly. For this purpose it is perhaps the best plan to pass up the 
river from Bonn to Mayence in the steamers, thus viewing the scenery from the 
deck, and on returning to forsake the vessel between Bingen and Coblentz, and 
travel along the banks. 



124 THE RHINE BOOK. 



MAP OF THE RHINE, FROM COLOGNE TO MAYENCE. 



COLOGNE 



ied:Zimdorf 
7)b:ZunJ/)rf 



Craw R 



Endenich jg Q^f^ 
Krew bcsiy + 
Popprtsdorf o 

Kessenich ° / 
Hachkrewz (r 




Plittersdc 
R Godzslerg 
Godejberg 
Jlwufsoi 



Konigswinter 

\WoVmiburg c» 
' T-Dmohenfela \ Lovenburq 

Schewern 
Jnkel 
Jleister 
Erpel 

Krtjfp mLLlilZ 



M'ehlem 



Ob era/inter 



Apolt^arisbvrg, 



N. B. At all places marked S. B. 
are stations of the Cologne and Dus- 
seldorf steamers. 

Cologne (Colonia Agrippina), 
(S.B.) the largest town of the Prus- 
sian Rhenish provinces, is of Roman 
origin. It has 72,000 inhabitants, 
and has lately been made a fortress : 
its circumference is five English 
miles. 

Curiosities. — The Cathedral, be- 
gun in 1247, continued until 1437. 
Its restoration commenced in 1827, 
and the foundation stone of the future 
works laid in 1842. — The Jesuit's 
Church and Library. — St. Ursula 
(bones of the 11,000 virgins). — 
St. G-ereon. — The Apostles'- Church. 
— St. Peter's Church. — St. Mary in 
the Capitol. — The Giirzenich. — The 
Town Hall.— The Walraff Museum 
(pictures, antiquities). — The modern 
buildings are, the Casino, the Go- 
vernment House, the Theatre, &c. — 
Panorama by Meister. — Collections^ 
Haan, Baumeister, v. Geyr, Merlo, 
Zanoli, v. Herwegh, Kaatz, Essingh, 
Weyer, and Geerling. 

Baths and Pump-rooms. — Arti- 
ficial mineral water establishment, 
in the Botanical Garden. Cold, 
warm, and Russian baths, in No. 72. 
Schildergasse, and No 19. Marzel- 
lenstrasse. Four Rhine baths. 

Places of Amusement. — Deutz ; 
Belle Vue, on the tower ; Rhine-Aue ; 
Bayen House ; Briihl ; Bensberg ;the 
Abbey Altenberg, now rebuilding. 

Inns on the Rhine. — The Konisr- 



MAP — COLOGNE TO REMAGEN. 



125 



liche Hof, Kolner Hof, Hollaendische Hof, Rhineberg, Russische Hof, Rheinische 
Hof : in the town, the Kaiserliche Hof, Maintzer Hof, Dom Hotel, and the 
Gernianische Hof. 

Steam Boats, fyc. — Three companies send their boats several times daily up 
and down the Rhine ; a railroad to Aix ; the Post House is one of the most 
extensive in Prussia. 

Deutz, — opposite to and united with Cologne by a bridge of boats, is also 
fortified, and has 3000 inhabitants. The cavalry workshops are worth seeing. 
The Hotel de Belle Vue has a garden, is a good inn, and is much frequented as a 
place of recreation. 

Wessllngen (S.B.) — A large village, of 940 inhabitants, near which is the 
small town Bruhl, with 2000 inhabitants, and a beautiful castle. 

Bonn (S.B.) — University, of Roman origin, Bonna or Bonnensia Castra, with 
15,000 inhabitants, without the students (800). — Curiosities. — The Minster, built 
in the 13th century. — The University, and its paintings in fresco. — The Stern- 
warte. — The Alte Zoll. — Beethoven's birth-place, Bonngasse, No. 815. — Public 
Walks. — Poppelsdorf, Endenich, Roisdorf. — Inns. — The Stern (Star), Trierscher 
Hof (Hotel de Treves), the Kolnische Hof, the Maintzer Hof, the Rheinische 
Hof, the Alte Keller, and Hotel de Belle Vue. 

Plittersdorf (S.B.) — A small village, and station for travellers by steam to 
Godesberg. 

Godesberg. — A cheerful village, with its castle, a splendid ruin. Near it the 
Draitscher Brunnen, with pump-rooms and inns. Above Godesberg is the 
Hochkreuz, a Gothic monument. 

Nieder Dollendorf. — A small village, near which are the ruins of the Abbey 
of Heisterbach, of the twelfth century. 

Konigswinter (S.B.), a small toAvn at the foot of the Drachenfels. Of the 
Siebengebirge, or Seven Mountains, the Lowenberg is 1896, the Oelberg 1836, 
the Wolkenburg 1842, the Drachenfels 1056 feet high. The latter is the most 
interesting. Its summit is crowned with ruins, and commands a magnificent 
view. On the Drachenfels is a good inn. 

Rolandseck and Nonnenwerth (S. B.\ with the Seven Mountains, form one 
of the finest points on the Rhine. The ruins of Rolandseck have recently been 
restored, and the ancient convent Nonnenwerth converted into an inn. With 
these two points is linked the famous tradition of Roland's love. 

Appolinarisberg. — Formerly a provostship ; the church has lately been rebuilt 
in the pointed arch style, at the expense of Count Fiirstenberg, after the plan of 
Mr. Zwirner, the present architect of the Cologne Cathedral. 

Remagen (S.B.) — The Rigomagum of the Romans, a small but very ancient 
town of 1700 inhabitants, with a curiously carved gateway near the parsonage, 



126 



Sinzig 



. J Waller 

If 

1 h Letibsdorf 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



1 1 

Wi\Argendorf 
Nicderbreisig «fk\ \S6hlcA7gmfd. 

^^.Honningen 

ScM RTieiridtf, V^kXFheinirohl 



Brohl 




Nied. Harrunerstein, 



R KarriTiwrsUiTi 
EammerstdTi 



{ [^lltemficd 



M<dr ^ WuderUeber 

^Friedijvchstein gm Tm(e<lsha,vr 

\Trjich 

°ffeddesdorf 

Newied 



Des Gen&TdUTooke- 




KaUeiiWiTigers 1 ] ^ 



.Eng&rs 
MvJiLTwfei 
Sayn 
Bendorf 



' VaUendcur 

\HoTchheim> 



.Med Lahnsfeia 



Capdlm] 



(CfBraubach. 




\>DoTfEmS 
Bad Ems 



Nassau 



f // Kestert 

if 



and a church in the 
Byzantine style. Near 
this place is the 
mouth of the Ahr, and 
its romantic valley. 

Lintz (S.B.) — A 
small but very indus- 
trious town, of 2400 
inhabitants ; close by 
areLinzerhausen, and 
the ruins of Okken- 
fels. 

Sinzig (lat. Senti- 
acum). — Originally a 
Roman castle, after- 
wards a free Reich- 
stadt, with 1600 in- 
habitants. The church 
is remarkable, and 
contains a painting 
which commemorates 
the victory gained 
by Constantine over 
Maxentius. 

Brohl. — Near this 
are stone quarries, and 
a very singular vol- 
canic ravine. From 
here the road leads to 
the Lake and Abbey 
of Laach, and to the 
tomb of St. Genovefa. 

Castle Reineck 
has been rebuilt by 
its owner, Professor 
Bethmann-Hollweg ; 
the barbican alone is 
ancient. Splendid 
decorations, and a 
noble view, invite the 



MAP HAMMERSTE1N TO NIEDERLAHNSTEIN. 



127 



traveller to enter. The steam-boats start from the village Niedrig Breisig 
(S.B.). 

Hammerstein. — A total ruin. Here Henry IV. reposed while escaping from 
the hands of his son, in 1105. 

Andernach (Antunacum, Antoniacum, S.B.) — A Roman castle. The archi- 
tectural remains of the middle ages, the rampart and gates are remarkable : 3100 
inhabitants. 

Teufelshaus. — Properly Friedrichstein ; the ruin of a castle begun in the 
17th century, and never finished. 

Neuwied (S.B). — A cheerful modern town of 6400 inhabitants, in the prin- 
cipality of Wied. Here all persuasions live in harmony. The Moravians live in 
community. The palace contains a collection of natural curiosities and Roman 
antiquities. Opposite is 

Weissenthurm. — Of historical note, as the spot where the French crossed the 
Rhine in 1797, and the monument erected to General Hoche. 

Engers (S.B.) — A hamlet of 900 inhabitants. The palace, garden, and park 
are worth visiting. 

Sain (two miles from the Rhine). Here is an old castle with handsome 
grounds, the ironfoundery, and near it the Abbey of Romersdorf. 

Coblentz (S. B.). — Once a Roman fort (Confluentes), at the mouth of the 
Moselle, is fortified, and has 15,000 inhabitants. Curiosities. — The Church of 
St. Kastor, the Kastorbrunnen, the Church of St. Florian, and of Notre Dame, the 
Ordenshaus, the Moselle Bridge, the Palace, and Clemens Square. Collections. — 
The Town Picture Gallery, the Town Library, Van der Meulen, Diez, Bohl, 
v. Lassaulx, Lasinsky, &c. Inns. — On the Rhine, the Riese (Giant), Belle Vue, 
Trois Suisses, the Pariser Hof, the Rheinberg. In the town, the Trierische 
Hof, the Kolnische Hof, the Wild Boar. Conveyances. — The Rhine steam-boats 
run several times daily up and down ; the Moselle steam-boats daily : to Ems there 
are coaches almost every hour in summer. 

Thal Ehrenbreitstein, 2800 inhabitants, at the foot of the fortress of Ehren- 
breitstein, which is built upon a rock 400 feet high, and has long been considered 
impregnable. It was destroyed by the French at the peace of Luneville, and was 
begun to be rebuilt in 1816. The labour of ascending it is rewarded by a most 
magnificent view. 

From Cologne to Mayence the Rhine becomes narrower, and castles, ruins, 
and villages follow in rich succession as far as Bingen, where the Rheingau begins. 
There is but space for slight notice of them in this part of the Volume. 

Hammerstein is the last Prussian village on the right bank of the river. 

Niederlahnstein, with St. John's Church, is on the mouth of the Lahn ; from 
here to Mayence the right bank belongs to the duchy of Nassau. 



128 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Hirzenach 
PrinzeTistdn, 



RdUKalz 
Goarshausen 



Stolzenfels, one of the proudest ornaments of the Rhine. This castle was 
destroyed in 1685, but has been rebuilt by King Frederic William IV. It is 

appropriately called " Stolze Fels " (Proud 
Ehr&nthaZ Rock), and commands magnificent views. 

Opposite to it is 
Wdmiclv Oberlahnstein, a small village, with the 

^RihumUrgo^Maws w h ere "Wenceslaus was deposed. In 

the back-ground the ruins of Lahneck are 
visible. 

Rhense, celebrated for its Konigs-stuhl 
(King's Seat), which has lately been restored. 

Braubach (S.B.), a small town, with 
1300 inhabitants, at the foot of the 

Marksbtjrg, the only castle on the Rhine 
in its primitive state. It is used as a state 
prison, and is garrisoned by invalids ; the 
chamber of torture is curious. 



La u gen SchwalLachS 



ErvqehoUo , 1 
J R Scho nier g 





MAP BOPPART TO STAHLECK. 



129 



At Niederspey, Peterspey, and Osterspey, the Rhine makes a great bend, 

which continues as far as 

Boppart (S. B.), a small town of Roman origin, with 3500 inhabitants, and 

surrounded with walls. The Pfarrkirche, the Tempelhof, and the ancient convent 

of Marienberg, are worthy of notice. 

Bornhofen has a convent, and lies at the foot of the two ruins 

Sternenberg and Liebenstein, also called the Brothers ; they are interesting 

from their position, and the story connected with them. 

Welmich, with 450 inhabitants, arid a fine church tower, lies at the foot of the 
Ruins of Thurnberg : it was built in 1563, and the walls are still entire. It 

was also called "the Mouse," in contrast to another, "the Cat," near St. Goars- 

hausen. 

St. Goar (S. B.), a small town, with 1300 inhabitants, lying in the midst of the 
glories of the Rhine, is peculiarly adapted for a halting- place. The Catholic 
Church, St. Goar, and the Evangelican Church, are worthy of notice, and the 

Fortress of Rheinfels, the most extensive ruin on the Rhine, built in 1245. 
In 1255 and in 1692 it was in vain besieged, but in 1797 it was abandoned 
without an effort to the French, who destroyed it. 

St. Goarshausen, opposite St. Goar, forms the entrance to the beautiful 
Schweitzer-Thai. On the hill are the 

Ruins of Katz (Cat), properly Katzenellenbogen, destroyed by the French 
in 1806. 

The Lurleifelsen, celebrated for its traditions, and remarkable echo. Near 
it are the Seven Rocks in the Rhine, called also the Seven Virgins. 

Oberwesel (S. B.) has 2300 inhabitants, and is of Roman origin. The Lieb- 
frauen Church, Martin's Church, and Werner's Chapel, are worthy of notice. 
Near it arise the 

Ruins of Schonberg, or Schomburg. 

Caub (S.B.) has 1500 inhabitants, and is the point where Bliicher in 1814, on 
New Year's Eve, crossed the Rhine. Over Caub is the 

Ruin of Gutenfels, said by tradition to be so named after the fair Guda, 
beloved by Richard of Cornwall. In the Rhine lies 

The Pfalz, built in 1326, probably for a toll-house. According to tradition 
the Palatine countesses, and even the German empresses, for safety here awaited 
their accouchements. A sketch of it is given on page 1. 

Bacharach (S. B.\ an ancient town, with 1700 inhabitants, is still provided with 
walls and twelve towers. The Gothic church of St. Werner is peculiarly worthy 
of notice. Above the town, on a hill, lies the 

Ruin of Stahleck, eight times besieged and taken in the Thirty Years' War, 
and totally destroyed during the reign of Louis XIV. 



130 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Lorch (S. B.), 1800 inhabitants, at the mouth of the Wisper, in the entrance 
to the romantic Sauerthal. The church is the most ancient on the Rhine, and 
was built in the ninth century. Here are situated on one side the 

Ruins of Rollingen, and on the other the 

Ruins of Fursteneck. 

The Ruins of Heimburg, destroyed in 1282 by the Emperor Rudolph, are 
followed by the Ruins of Sonneck, Falkenberg, and Clemen's Chapel : then comes 

Rheinstein, or Vautsberg, rebuilt and furnished with a collection of military 
equipments, and objects of art, by the King of Prussia. Opposite lies 

Assmanshausen, celebrated for its excellent red wine, and is the halting-place 
for ascending the 

Niederwald, so celebrated for its noble prospect. On this hill lies the Ruins 
of Ehrenfels, also the Temple, and the Rossel. In the Rhine lies 

The Mausethurm (the Mouse Tower), to indicate a point of the Bingerloch, 
once so dangerous to navigators, but at present rendered safe. With this tower 
are connected the traditions of Bishop Hatto and the Seven Watchmen. 

Bingen (S. B.), 5000 inhabitants, at the mouth of the Nahe, one of the glories 
of the Rhine ; forms the boundary between Prussia and Hessen-Darmstadt. A 
visit to Rochusberg, Rupertsberg, Elisenhohe, and the Ruins of Klopp, is well 
repaid. An excursion to the charming Nahethal must delight the tourist. 

Rudesheim, opposite Bingen, with 2400 inhabitants, is celebrated for its 
wines. 

The Ruins of Bromserburg, a castle of the 1 1th century, and lately fitted up 
in a cheerful style by the Countess of Ingelheim. With it is connected the tradi- 
tion of Gisela. Close by is the Boosenburg, and at no great distance the ancient 
convent, Noth Gottes. 

Geisenheim (S. B.), a cheerful town of 2500 inhabitants, with handsome 
country houses, and a church of the 15th century, with a modern tower. An 
interesting collection of painted glass belonging to the Freiherr v. Zwierlein. 
Near this is the 

Johannisberg Castle, celebrated for its wine. It was erected in 1106 as a 
convent, and came, after varied destinies, into possession of Prince Metternich in 
1816. The internal arrangements are splendid, without being overcharged; the 
prospect charming. In the church is a monument to Nicholas Vogt. 

In Mittelheim is an ancient and remarkable church, built in 1140. Here at 
short distances are seen the village of Oestrich (S. B.), and of Hattenheim, with 
the splendid property called Schloss Reichartshausen, belonging to Count Schon- 
born ; and on the left bank is observed 

Nieder-Ingelheim, with 2000 inhabitants, and scanty remains of the gorgeous 
Imperial Palace of Charlemagne. The tomb, also, of Hildegardis. Opposite is 



MAP ERBACH TO MAYENCE. 



131 



Erbach, and the Markobrunn Hills, celebrated for their wine. 

Kidrich. The Church and Michael's Chapel are Gothic monuments of the 
15th and 16th centuries. 

Ellfeld (Eltwill, S. B.), 2000 inhabitants. A castle with Gothic watch tower. 
Fine villas, and a collection of pictures belonging to Count Elz. 

Nieder-Walluff (S. B.), with 800 inhabitants, and nice country houses. 
Near by the village Schierstein, 1000 inhabitants. The collection of antiquities 
and paintings belonging to the Archivist Habel is interesting. 

Bieberich (S. B.) has 3000 inhabitants, and was formerly the residence of the 
Duke of Nassau. The palace is tastefully and richly fitted up, and the gardens 
are very pleasant. A railroad to Wiesbaden. 

Mayence (S. B. Moguntia), the principal town of the Grand Duchy of Hesse - 
Darmstadt, opposite the junction of the Main with the Rhine ; has 36,000 inhabit- 
ants ; is the chief fortress of the German Confederation, and has a Prussian and 
Austrian garrison. It is of Roman origin. It is an important place of trade, and 
renowned for the discovery of the art of printing. Remarkable objects. — The 
Cathedral, six times burnt down, is restored, and contains the tombs of Fastrade 
and Henr. Frauenlob : St. Stephen's Church, with its lofty tower : St. Ignatius, 
St. Peter, and St. Emmeran. The old and new Palaces, the Arsenal, the Palace 
of Justice, the Library, and Gutemburg's Monument. Public Walks. — The 
Neue Anlage, the Eichelstein, the Wasserleitung, the Rhine Bridge. Inns. — 
The Rheinische, the Hollandische, the European, and Hessische Hof, the Queen 
Victoria, the Stadt Mannheim, and Stadt Maintz, &c. 

Castell (2000 inhabitants) is opposite to and united with Mayence by a bridge 
of boats, and is fortified. Here is the station of the Taunus railroad to Wiesbaden 
and Frankfort. 




132 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



BONN AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 




The 
was 



he city of Bonn has the honour of being the birth-place of Beethoven, 
who first saw the light on the seventeenth of December, 1770. One 
of the three great German musicians of modern time, the townsmen 
are naturally proud of his name and memory, although the maestro 
deserted his native place early in life to make his home at Vienna, 
musician will linger about the house, Bonngasse, No. 815, where Beethoven 
born and spent his youthful days, and where he conned his first lessons 
in the divine science he was destined to advance. The 
j scholar will feel an interest in the University, where up- 
wards of seven hundred students are busy, where Njebuhr 
and Schlegel have taught, and the Prince Consort of 
England, Prince Albert, received his education. The 
antiquary will visit the Cathedral, founded by the mother 
of Constantine the Great, and will inspect the Museum of 
Rhenish antiquities. Every traveller may well follow 
their example ; but whether he does or not, he must 
not fail to see the view of the Rhine from the ramparts, 
or to make excursions round Bonn, 
never omitting a ramble to the valley 
of the Ahr ; and another to the Dra- 
chenfels. The scene from the ramparts 
was partially anticipated by the tourist 
from the deck before Bonn was reached ; 
but it loses none of its interest by that 
glance, which gives only a foretaste of 
what the Traveller has be- 
M fore him. A walk through 

jjjlggjs the wood to the summit of 

the Kreutzberg is repaid 
by a charming prospect, 
including the outlines of 
the Sieben-gebergen — 
the Seven Mountains. 

These hills of lava and 
basalt have their tale of 
faithlessness, jealousy, and 
revenge. 

Stimulated by religious 




THE SEVEN MOUNTAINS. 



133 



zeal, the lord of a castle on 
the Seven Mountains enlisted 
in the ranks of the Crusaders, 
and fought gallantly in the 
^ van of those who sought 
W to place the cross upon the 
walls of the Holy City. 
After long years of absence 
he returned, to find that a 
neighbouring chieftain had in his absence 
estranged from him the faith of his lady, 
who, to escape his wrath, fled to a 
convent. The seducer escaped, and the 
innocent evidence of infidelity was secreted 
for many years from the sight of the injured 
husband. But he nursed his sense of wounded 
honour, and in his old age meeting a youth near 
b~ Godesburg in whom he recognised a likeness to 
his wife, he questioned him, and finding that it was 
the boy he so long had sought, without pity for 
his youth, he visited the sin of the mother upon her 
offspring and slew him in the high road, on the spot 
where the Hocli Kreuz now stands — a monument which 
tradition says was erected to hold the deed in memory 
as a warning to weak wives and faithless friends. 

Drachenfels is a name familiar " as a household 
word" to the ear of the Englishman. This fame has 
been created by the often quoted lines of Byron, who 
wandered up the Rhine in a fit of poetry and indigestion, 
which did not, however, prevent him from painting the scenery with 
the power and truthfulness of a master. One part of his picture, 
however, is unfaithful. Unhappily, the " peasant girls with deep blue eyes " are 
seen toiling through the heaviest labours of husbandry, instead of finding leisure 
for the more poetical employment of gathering or offering " early flowers." 




The castled crag of Drachenfels 
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
Whose breast of waters broadly swells, 
Between the banks which bear the vine, 
And hills all rich with blossom 'd trees, 
And fields which promise corn and wine, 
And scatter'd cities crowning these, 
Wtiose far white walls along them shine, 
Have strew'd a scene which I should see 
With double joy wert thou with me. 



134 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



And peasant girls with deep blue eyes, 
And hands which offer early flowers, 
Walk smiling o'er this paradise ; 
Above, the frequent feudal towers 
Through green leaves lift their walls of 
gray, 

And many a rock which steeply lours, 
And noble arch in proud decay, 
Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers ; 
But one thing want these banks of 

Rhine,— 
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine ! 

The river nobly foams and flows, 
The charm of this enchanted ground, 
And all its thousand turns disclose 
Some fresher beauty varying round : 
The haughtiest breast its wish might 
bound 

Through life to dwell delighted here ; 
Nor could on earth a spot be found 
To nature and to me so dear, 
Could thy dear eyes in following mine 
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine ! 



Rolandseck has a fine 
view and a legend, which it 
enjoys in common with the 

CONVENT ON THE ISLAND OF 
NONNENWERTH. 

The glory of the lists and 
the admiration of the fair dames and maidens who gazed 
upon the contests of chivalry, the youthful Roland had 
nought to desire but the love of some fair being whose 
beauty and whose virtues could deserve and retain the 
heart of so brave and gallant a young knight. Nor did 
he look long round about in vain, for Hilda, the daughter 
of the lord of the Drachenfels, was all that dreams had pic- 
tured to his youthful fancy as worthy of an ardent souFs 
devotion ; and soon he was made happy by a confession from 
the maiden that his passion was returned. Lost in a dream 
of first love, the knight forgot the world and its struggles, 
and in the expectation of an early day for his wedding 
with his mistress, he had no care for the morrow, but 




lived a life of perfect joy; — now gazing with Hilda upon the windings of the 
Rhine ; now watching her as she stooped gracefully to tend the flowers which 
peace allowed to flourish under the walls of her father's abode ; now wandering 
with his arm round the taper waist of his affianced bride, talking of the happiness 
in store for them. 

But Roland lived in times when love was but the bright, transient episode of a 
life of war. The laws of chivalry forbade a true knight's neglect of duty, and in 



THE LEGEND OF ROLAND. 



135 




the week he was to be wedded, the fatal summons came to call him to his post in 
the field. The struggle was bitter, but short. " You would love me less, dear 
Hilda, if you knew me recreant even for your sake ; " and with bitter regrets 
cheered by hope of a speedy 
return, he left his mistress 
in her home on the Dra- 
chenfels. 

The war was long, for the ' — v3l 
enemy was brave and the 
forces were nearly equal, and 
it was not for three years -X 
that the laws of honour 
would allow Roland to leave the camp. But 
the long-sought day came at last, and with 
a bounding heart he set out upon his way =* aes? 
back to the Rhine. Light in his stirrups rode he 
that journey, and still lighter were the songs with 
which he strove to temper his impatience and beguile 
his way. Late on the fourth day he came in sight of 
the home of his ladye-love, and swimming his war-horse 
boldly across the rapid stream he bounded 
on foot up the steep. 

Frightful was the wel- 
come he received. The 
castle was in ruins ; its lord 
was slain ; and Hilda, de- \ 
ceived by reports of Ro- 
land's death, had taken the \ 
veil in the neighbouring 
convent of Nonnenwerth ! « 

Over the bright path of 
the young knight a dark 
and lasting shadow was cast. 
His early hopes were broken 
— the joy of his existence 
had fled — his spirit bent 
beneath the weight of his evil fortune. But his faith and constancy were beyond 
the control of Fate. Retiring to his castle of Rolandseck he made himself a 
resting-place before a window from which he could look down upon the island of 
Nonnenwerth and the convent that held in the chains of the church his beloved 




136 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Hilda. Whether she heard of his return, tradition does not say, but such 
constancy did perhaps waft its rumour through the jealous watchfulness of a 
nunnery wall. Be that as it may, it is chronicled that, after Roland's watch had 
been for three years prolonged, he heard one evening the tones of the bell that 
tolled for a passing soul, and next day the white figures of the nuns were seen 
bearing a sister to her last home. 

Roland felt that it was Hilda's funeral, and when his servants, alarmed by his 
watch being prolonged deep into the night, came to urge his retirement to rest, 
they saw his eyes were fixed on Hilda's grave in death: — a smile brightening 
his features, as though his spirit's last influence upon his frame had left a happy 
anticipation of the meeting of two kindred souls in those realms of immortality 
where " all that is of earth, earthy " has no leave to enter. 

Note. — In reference to the Valley of the Ahr, (another excursion in this locality,) it may be well 
to quote a passage from a clever letter by one of the Travelling Correspondents of the Athenceum: — 

" I have already pointed out one or two by-ways in the Rhine-land worth exploring, and, at 
least, a word of notice for the benefit of future tourists, sketchers, &c. The latter, in particular, 
will have reason to thank you if you further direct them to the Ahr valley — a passage of scenery 
greatly in favour among the Dutch, but which the English seem hardly ever to reach, if one may 
judge by the names in the Fremden-buch of that best of all country inns, the Sternat Ahrweiler. 
There can be nothing of its kind more striking and original than the view from the castle, which 
is the closing point of the excursion at Altenahr — a splendid fragment of ruin, triumphing upon 
a scarcely accessible crag, at the foot of which the clear stream wanders in the most capricious 
sinuosities. The heap of stones which was Saflfenburg is perched on an eyrie little less imposing 
from its height, and peculiar from the windings of the stream. Ahrweiler, too, is beautifully 
situated ; and besides the attraction of capital sleeping quarters which it offers in the inn aforesaid, 
the architect would find no worthless subject for his meditations in the church, by the early mass 
in which he will possibly be waked at five o'clock a. m., or thereabouts, if not worn out by his 
ramble. The tower is in the Romanesque style ; eight-sided, and singularly harmonious in its 
proportions. Apropos of this same tower, I have wondered again and again, during the last 
fortnight, to see how strangely the German architects of our own day overlook their own models — 
at best, how infelicitously they copy them. It would be hard, I suspect, to find a good new 
building in this simple and most effective style of architecture. Nor has it hitherto been, appa- 
rently, much affected in this district, if we except Professor Bethman Hollweg's show-box at 
Rheineck, where the forms and arrangements which, without force of language, are, beyond all 
others, mystically ecclesiastic, have been pressed into the service of modern domestic luxury. The 
twin spires of the church at Geissenheim, an object of much admiration, are a minikin attempt 
at the spire of Strasburg Minster. The chapel recently patched on to the princely castle of the 
Rheinstein, is as frivolous and piccolo as if it had been modelled for a presse papier, or the cotton-box 
of one of the indefatigable tapestry-working fraiilein with whom the land abounds. Little less 
felicitous appears to me the eking-out and substitutions at the Stolzenfels. Nor is it captious to 
call attention to these, since the mania for building in critical situations seems spreading. We 
hear that Godesberg is to be repaired, and put in habitable order ; and that the Katz above St. 
Goarshausen has found a purchaser bent upon its beautification." 



BONN, 



137 




BONN. 



HOTELS. 

The Star Hotel, by M. Schmitz. 
Treves Hotel. 
Grand Hotel Royal. 
Hotel Belle Vue. 

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN BONN. 

The University, formerly the Palace of the 
Archbishop of Cologne. Prince Albert was 
educated here. 

The Frescoes in the Hall of the University, 



executed by the pupils of Cornelius, and repre- 
senting the four learned Faculties — Theology, 
Philosophy, Jurisprudence, and Medicine. 

The Museum of Popplesdorf. 

The Munster Church. 

The Statue of Beethoven. 

The neighbourhood of Bonn has several 
spots worthy a visit, particularly Godesburg, 
Nonnenwerth, the Drachenfels, Rolandseck, 
and the Valley of the Ahr. 



138 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



The University of Bonn, 
being the chief point of interest in the place, 
some particulars of the institution, condensed 
from a volume on the subject by a " Member 
of the Middle Temple," may find place here. 
This learned corporation (of which the King of 
Prussia is the great patron) consists of, 

1st. Professors appointed and paid by the 
government, and who are called Professors in 
ordinary. 

2dly. Of Extraordinary professors, also ap- 
pointed by the government, — some receiving 
salaries, and others not. The number of paid 
professors at present in the University is fifty- 
seven. Superadded to these are probationary 
instructors, academically called Privatim Do- 
centes, who get no salaries until qualified by 
their standing to become paid professors. Both 
classes of government instructors — professors in 
ordinary and professors extraordinary — are per- 
mitted to deliver lectures in each and all of the 
four Faculties, provided they shall have proved, 
upon examination, that they have a sufficient 
knowledge of the subject or subjects upon 
which they propose to give what are called 
"explications." As an indispensable qualifica- 
tion, before they are permitted to receive pupils 
in private, the instructors composing the class 
of Privatim Docentes must have either the degree 
of Doctor or be Licentiates, and must also 
show that they had finished their studies two 
years previously. In the two Faculties of 
Jurisprudence and Medicine, the Privatim Do- 
centes are obliged to confine themselves to 
lectures, the object of which is merely to 
ascertain whether the students have acquired 
such knowledge as will qualify them for exami- 
nation, preparatory to their appearing as can- 
didates for degrees, and if not, to assist them in 
attaining it. These lectures, according to the 
plan upon which they are delivered, are called 
" Examinatoria and Repetitoria.'' The Privatim 
Docentes, deriving no emolument from the 
State, are only probationers, as has heen already 
observed, but there are paid assistants of the 
several Faculties, who, as well as the professors, 
are included under the second head. 



The other component academical bodies 
are — ■ 

3dly. All matriculated students. 

4thly. All official persons belonging to the 
University, such as the secretary, bedel, questor, 
&c. 

Supreme Authority. — This is vested in the 
Minister of Public Worship at Berlin, but prac- 
tically delegated to the Curator, as first resident 
officer under the government, and acting co- 
ordinately with the academical senate, composed 
of professors, with the Rector at their head, and 
assisted by a judge appointed by the crown. 

On the 1 8th of October of each year, being 
the anniversary of the inauguration of the Uni- 
versity, the rector's term of office expires, and a 
new one is appointed. The Rector is the officer 
next in rank to the Curator, and his title is 
" His Magnificence," the Latin adjective being 
Magnificus, the term always applied to him. 

The Senate. — The academical senate is com- 
posed of twelve persons — viz. 

1st. The rector, who presides over all its 
deliberations, as next in rank to the curator. 

2d. The rector of the preceding year. 

3d. Five deans, one of whom belongs to the 
Faculty of Roman Catholic theology. 

4th. Four professors who are not deans. 

5th. The judge appointed by the crown. 

Faculties. — For the different sciences there 
are different faculties, which form a corporation 
distinct from that of the University, but directly 
as well as indirectly dependent upon it. Of 
this internal corporation the Dean is the chief 
officer. He is allowed, under the authority of 
the University, to confer all degrees except the 
highest, that of doctor. In the faculties of 
theology and jurisprudence he may confer the 
degree of licentiate, and in the faculty of philo- 
sophy, that of master. 

Every faculty is obliged to arrange its course 
of lectures upon every science appertaining to 
it, in such a manner as that the student may 
be enabled to go through the whole science 
within the term of three years. The Dtan 
has change of the register of his faculty, as also 
of all letters and papers official!)' addressed to 



UNIVERSITY OF BONN. 



139 



him, and is at liberty to originate discussions 
upon them, if necessary. Besides the power of 
conferring degrees under the rank of doctor, 
it rests with him either to permit or not allow 
applicants to give instruction as Privatim Do- 
centes ; but in either case he is responsible to 
the University for the exercise of this discre- 
tionary power. He is also responsible for the 
system upon which all young persons in his 
faculty pursue tbeir studies, as well as for their 
academical conduct, so far as regards attention 
or neglect, but nothing more. In all other 
respects the student may do as he pleases, with- 
out any responsibility attaching to the Dean. 

Faculty of Philosophy. — This far transcends 
all the others, in the estimation of the learned, 
not only here, but all over Germany, and is 
considered to be of the very highest importance. 
There is not a single subject connected with 
art or science into which it does not enter ; 
though, as has been before stated; some subjects 
are not brought systematically within its com- 
pass. The -lectures of this faculty are much 
more numerously attended than those of any of 
the others, and hence the necessity of there 
being so large a number of learned persons 
to deliver them as eighteen qualified professors. 
These, with only two exceptions, discourse 
indiscriminately upon every branch of science 
according to the circumstances of the occasion, 
and evince consummate ability in all. 

Of the eighteen there are two who are pro- 
fessors of Philosophy, properly so called in its 
more limited sense, and who confine themselves 
to that branch exclusively, except in one par- 
ticular instance. They are bound to give, in 
turn, special lectures on the philosophy of re- 
ligion ; and in order that opposite systems may 
be equally represented upon this most import- 
ant of all subjects, one is of the Protestant, and 
the other of the Roman Catholic faculty of 
theology. The University, as a body, does not 
give a preference to eithe>-, or countenance the 
one more than the other in the slightest respect. 
At the present moment both chairs are filled 
by two very celebrated men in their respective 
departments. These are, Dr. Brandis, on the 



Protestant side, and Dr. Clemens, who repre- 
sents the Roman Catholic faculty : the former 
so well and favourably known to the learned 
for his History of Philosophy ; and the latter 
raised to great eminence in the estimation, not 
only of profound scholars of his own persuasion, 
but also in that of persons who totally differ 
from them. He is quite a young man. 

The professors filling other chairs which 
belong to the faculty of philosophy lecture on 
the following subjects : — 

Mathematics and astronomy. 

Classics, with philology and archaeology. 

Oriental literature and languages. 

Modern oratory and literature. 

History, and all subjects connected with it. 

Physics. 

Chemistry. 

Natural history and zoology. 

Botany. 

Mineralogy. 

Politics and statesmanship. 

Technology and economy. 

The lecturer upon politics and statesmanship 
is Professor Dahlmann, whose expulsion from 
the University of Gottingen made so much 
noise at the time. His position here has con- 
siderably enhanced the reputation he had pre- 
viously acquired. 

Besides the University itself there are three 
other buildings within a very short distance of 
it, in which public lectures are delivered, prin- 
cipally upon professional and scientific subjects. 
These are, the School of Anatomy, the Obser- 
vatory, and the Chateau of Popplesdorf ; the 
latter, a splendid structure in a most beautiful 
situation, at the upper end of a noble avenue 
with double rows of trees on each side, and 
terminating one of the finest vistas which it is 
possible to behold. The three buildings, as 
well as the grounds appertaining to them, in- 
cluding the invaluable Botanical Garden of 
Popplesdorf, are the property of the University. 
In the latter there are seventeen lecture-rocms, 
of different sizes, some on the ground-floor, and 
others on the one above it ; the smallest is 
capable of accommodating fifty persons, and 



140 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



the largest three hundred. In the same build- 
ing spacious and suitable apartments are also 
appropriated to the following purposes : — 
clinical lectures, hospital for clinical patients, 
library, museum for Roman antiquities dis- 
covered on the Rhine, museum for Greek 
antiquities, obstetric room (lying-in hospital) 
for pauper patients, Lutheran church (in this 
divine service is also performed according to 
the rites of the Church of England). To the 
apartments here enumerated must be added 
those which are provided as places of residence 
for certain official functionaries of the Uni- 
versity. At the head of them is the Curator, 
the highest officer of the University, and co- 
ordinate in authority with the academical 
senate. He holds a rank somewhat analogous 
to that of chancellor at the University of 
Oxford or of Cambridge, and has a magnificent 
residence. 

Bonn is in Rhenish Prussia, on the left 
bank of the Rhine, and contains 12,000 inha- 
bitants. 

It was formerly the residence of the Electors 
of Cologne, after their removal from that city 
in 1268. 

At the end of a fine avenue of chestnut-trees 
is the chateau of Popplesdorf, which contains a 
museum of natural history ; it has a botanic 
garden attached to it, situated about three- 
quarters of a mile from the town. A short 
distance beyond this is a church, placed on the 
summit of the Kreutzberb, one of the hills 
behind Popplesdorf, which commands some 



fine views ; it is also visited for the curiosities 
it contains. The sacred stairs which lead up 
to Pilate's Judgment Hall are stained with 
spots of blood which fell from the wounds on 
the brow of the Saviour, caused by the crown 
of thorns : such is the Catholic tradition con- 
cerning them ; no person is allowed to ascend 
them except on their knees. 

The Prussian Military System. — In 
Prussia every man capable of bearing arms, 
(with certain exceptions specified by law,) is 
called out into active service at the age of 
twenty. These men compose the active, or, to 
speak in our language, the standing army. 
After serving three years, they return to their 
respective homes, and form the King's Reserve 
(wor reserve) till the age of 25. At 25 they 
are freed from active service, and incorporated 
in the Landwehr of the first levy (Aufgebot). 
In peace they receive no pay, except during 
their times of annual drill. Only the staff is 
regularly paid, and belongs to the active army, 
in which also it takes promotion. The Land- 
wehr of the first levy is called out for exercise 
about a month in every year. At 32, the men 
pass into the second levy, in which they remain 
till the age of 39. The second levy is not 
called out to drill. In case of war, the Land- 
wehr of the first levy acts with the regular 
troops. The second levy is confined to home 
service, and can only be marched against the 
enemy in case of imminent danger. This is the 
military organization of Prussia. 



BONN TO COBLENTZ. 



141 



BONN TO COBLENTZ. 




hen the Traveller leaves Bonn on his voyage up the Rhine he has an 
opportunity of seeing from the river several points which he was 
recommended to include in his previous rambles round that town. 
He steams by Nonnerwerth and the Drachenfels, and may listen, if 
he will, to the Tradition of the Dragon who gave its name to the rock. 
This "dainty eater" fed upon the choicest specimens of humanity, until a beautiful 
maiden being after a long contest assigned to it, she held before its godless sight 
the holy sign of the cross, whereat the monster was not only abashed, but conquered 
— leaping, from a cave where it lived, into the Rhine, from whose waters it has 
never since arisen. As he passes Nun Island (Nonnerwerth) he may give ear to 
the anecdote of the kindly-hearted Josephine, who prevailed upon Napoleon to 
allow the helpless nuns to continue in the home on the island when all the other 
religious houses on the Rhine were cleared of their occupants, and devoted to 
other purposes. In quick succession he passes the Gothic church of Appoli- 
narisberg amidst its woods ; the town of Remagen ; the basaltic precipices of 
the Erpeler Lei, seven hundred feet in height, in the holes of which baskets of 
earth are placed, and thus grapes grown on the steep bare rocks ; the ruins of the 
castle of Ockenfels ; the old town of Linz, with its cross in memory of the battle 



ofLeipsig; the castle of Rhei- 
neck, recently restored by a 
Professor of Bonn ; and the 
village of Brohl, interesting to 
the geologist from its volcanic 
soil, which, when ground into 
powder, is called trass, and 
fetches a good price for use as 
a cement, because it hardens 
under water. Its quarries 
afford the stone used by the 
ancients for coffins on account 
of its power to absorb the 
moisture of the corpse, and so 
preserve it. Hence the term Sarcophagus— eater of flesh. 

The Castle of Hammerstein is a very prominent object seated 
upon a bold rock. It was the asylum, a. d. 1106, of Henry IV., when he became 




142 



THE KHINE BOOK. 



the victim of the rising power of the Church of Rome and was driven from his 
kingdom by the power of Pope Gregory VII., who offered the crown to Rudolph 
of Suabia, with the inscription — 

" Petra dedit Petro — Petrus diademi Rhodolpho." 

The emperor begged bread and shelter of the Bishop of Speyer, whose see his 

ancestors had established — and 
was refused. The Pope had 
excommunicated him ; and had 
he not found refuge in Ham- 
merstein, would have perished 
by the way-side. 

Behind Nieder Hammer- 
stein is a huge rock, higher 
than that on which the castle 
stands, and these twin heights 
are the extremities of a semi- 
circle formed of hills. 

The village of Namedy. on 
the right bank, was the great 
place of muster for the huge 
rafts of timber often spoken of in connection with the Rhine. The materials for 
these floating towns came down the Murg, Neckar, Maine, Saar, and Moselle, 
and all joining at Namedy, formed a raft of enormous size and great value. " A 
capital of 26,000/. to 34,000/. was requisite to construct and equip one of these 
floating villages. The consumption of provisions by the people, amounting fre- 
quently to 900, employed on board, from the time the raft first starts until it 
reaches Dordrecht, where it is broke up, and the timber sold and transported 
abroad, is calculated at 40,000 to 50,000 lbs. of bread, 18,000 to 20,000 lbs. of 
fresh meat, 10 cwt. of smoked meat, 12,000 lbs. of cheese, 10 to 15 cwt. of butter, 
120 to 160 bushels of pulse, 500 or 600 ohms of beer, or 90,000 to 108,000 bottles, 
and six to eight butts of wine, or 8100 to 10,800 bottles. Live cattle accompany 
the raft, with butchers, &c. ; the houses erected on it are neat and convenient ; 
and it is stated that these floats afford a favourable opportunity for a contraband 
trade in Rhenish wines and mineral waters. The art of conducting a raft was 
for nearly fifty years monopolised by a modern Palinurus, an inhabitant of 
Rlidesheim, and his sons, the various sinuosities and falls of the Rhine rendering 
the navigation of so cumbrous a mass extremely difficult. In latter years, how- 
ever, experience has improved the nautical knowledge, and convinced the Rhenish 




ANDERNACH. 



143 



boatmen, that, with due precaution, large rafts might be steered with safety from 
places higher up the river, and consequently this place of rendezvous has become 
gradually less frequented." — {Tomblesorfs Rhine.) 

At Andernach the basaltic mountains approach the water's edge, and the 
town has a picturesque though time-worn appearance. The castle of Frederick- 
stein next gains attention, with its sobriquet of Devil's House, given because its 
author raised it with the proceeds of an unjust and cruel tax upon his weaker 
neighbours. With Andernach is identified the tradition of a Count Palatine, 
who, returning from the Holy Wars, was persuaded by a false friend that his lady 
had proved faithless ; and, without listening to excuse, drove her forth to the woods. 
In the forest she found shelter with her youthful son, lodging in caves and living 
on fruits and herbs for many years, when one day her husband, having lost his 
companions in the chase, came by accident upon her place of concealment. The 
wife of his bosom, carefully nurtured in her youth, now living untended in the 
wilds, and his son now grown into a fine youth, excited his pity. Listening to 
the truth he took home the innocent victims of perfidy, and retaliated upon the 
traducer by hanging him from the highest tower of his castle. After her death 
the countess became St. Genofeva. 

Nearly opposite Nieuwied stands the tomb of General Hoche, near Wiessen- 
thiirm, the White Tower. The inscription runs simply — " L'Armee de Sambre 
et Meuse a son General Hoche." Speaking of this tomb and epitaph Byron 
said — " This is all, and as it should be ; Hoche was esteemed amongst the first 
of France's earlier generals until Napoleon monopolised her triumphs. He was 
the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland." The monument is 
raised not over the body of the general, for he was buried at Coblentz, but at the 
point where, in 1797, he carried the French army across the Rhine in spite of a 
powerful Austrian force opposed to him. Cresar passed the river at the same 
spot. Hoche was one of the self-made heroes of the French revolutionary period. 
The son of a keeper of the dog-kennels of Louis XV., he educated himself by 
great perseverance and self-denial ; and, entering the ranks at the age of sixteen, 
he died at thirty, the most celebrated commander of the armies of his country. 
From this spot the banks have but little interest, until the Traveller comes in 
sight of the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, when Coblentz and Ehren- 
breitstein are before him. 

Coblentz is not a place to be passed by merely with a glance. It is quite 
worthy of a day's attention from the hastiest tourist. The view of the city is 
eminently picturesque ; its historical associations are many and interesting ; the 
fortress of Ehrenbreitstein — the Broad Stone of Honour — should be seen both 
as a fortress and for the views to be enjoyed from the summit ; whilst many 
delightful Excursions may be enjoyed in this neighbourhood. 



144 



THE RHTNE BOOK. 




EHRENB REITS TETN, 



Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall 

Black with the miner's blast upon her height, 
Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball 

Rebounding idly on her strength did light, 
A tower of victory ! from whence the flight 

Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain ; 
But Peace destroy'd what War could never blight, 

And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's rain- — 
On which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain. — Byrox. 

At Coblentz the sons of Charlemagne met to divide their father's empire into 
France, Germany, and Italy ; there also Edward III., in 1338, met the Emperor 
Louis, and was by him appointed vicar of the empire ; and at Coblentz the French 
raised a monument in 1814 to commemorate the subjugation of Russia, — as they 
reared a column at Boulogne in honour of their invasion of England. Soon after 
the inscription was finished the Russian commander entered Coblentz in pursuit 
of Buonaparte. With memorable and caustic wit he left the braggadocia as it 
stood, just adding — " Vu et approuve par nous, Commandant Russe de la Ville 



STOLZENFELS. 



145 




de Coblence, Janvier ler, 1814." Here also is the monument 
to the young and gallant General Marceau, killed at the battle 
of Altenkirchen, 1796. 

By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, 
There is a small and simple pyramid, 
Crowning the summit of the verdant mound : 
Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid, 

Our enemy's — but let not that forbid ji^^^lljjl 
Honour to Marceau ! o'er whose early tomb 
Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid, 
Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, 
Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. .^WBBb 

Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, — ^^^Hn^^ 
His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ; ijHj^'^jBBi 
And fitly may the stranger lingering here 
Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose; 
For he was Freedom's champion, one of those, 
The few in number, who had not o'erstept 
The charter to chastise which she bestows 
On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept 
The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept.' 

Byron. 

The excursions from Coblentz are numerous. 
Lahnstein, Sayn, the Botanic Garden at Engers, 
Laacb, Marksburg, all offer their temptations. 
The trip to Stolzenfels is 
the most attractive for those 
who have but little time to 
spare, but, when leisure will 
allow, a trip should be made 
up the Moselle to Treves. 

Stolzenfels was long in 
ruin, and was offered in vain 
for sale. Not a purchaser 
could be found, though it is 

said that less than 201. would have purchased it ! The people of Coblentz, to whom 
it was worthless, gave it to the Crown Prince, now King, of Prussia, who has 
restored it — unhappily not in the best or most substantial taste. But the fine 
view it offers cannot be spoiled. The hills and the river are God's work; noble 
and beautiful as when they first came from his hand : — whilst the height on which 
the castle stands deserves its title, Stolzenfels — the Proud Bock. It was origin- 



1_ 





146 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



ally a stronghold of the Archbishops of Treves, and was in good condition until 
destroyed by the French in 1688. 

The Moselle is almost as charming a river 
as the Rhine, and may be^ followed as far as 
Treves, which stands 90 miles from Coblentz. 

" The present year was made memorable in the annals of 
that city by one of those spectacles more frequent in old 
times than at the present day, — the exposition of that most sacred 
relic, the Holy Robe of Jesus Christ, said to be the veritable garment 
worn at the time of his crucifixion — the seamless garment for which 
the soldiers cast lots (John, xix. 23,24.). 

This exposition takes place every thirty years, and, as may 
well be imagined, the circumstance creates the most lively 
interest, accompanied by an intense religious feeling 
in the breasts of the numerous pilgrims who visit it. 
This most holy relic is placed upon the high altar of 
the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen, which is richly 

dressed for the occasion. It is encased in a 

liip ik .._ frame covered with plate glass of its own form, 

~nd is surrounded by innumerable candles of 
arious sizes. The altar is approached by many 
;eps on each side, and the picturesque effect of 
, this arrangement is further height- 
ened by one or two steps, at inter- 
vals, in the floor, so that the long 
line of pilgrims on their way down 
the side aisle and up to the altar is 
varied by these differences in height. 
Twenty thousand pilgrims each day 
are said to have paid their devo- 
tions to this relic. They come in 
processions of hundreds, and some- 
times thousands ; are of various 
grades, but mostly — indeed, almost 
wholly — peasants. The lame, the 
blind, and the sick are not few in 
their ranks, and it is observable 
that the majority are women. 
from bxoiZBNKBi.-£f. They are constantly arriving, pour- 

ing in at the several gates of the city in an almost continual stream, accompanied by priests, 
banners, and crosses, and alternately singing and praying. They are many of them heavily 
laden, their packs on their backs, their bright brass pans, pitchers, and tea-kettles of all shapes in 
their hands, or slung on their arms, while their fingers are busily employed with their beads. 
Wayworn and footsore, fatigued and hungry, they yet pursue their toilsome march, intent upon 
the attainment of the one object of their pilgrimage. It is curious and picturesque to see their 




CHURCH OF THE HOLY ROBE. 



147 



long lines of processions in the open country, wending their slow way over the hills, and to hear 
their hymns, mellowed by distance into a pleasant sound, across the broad Rhine. There was, 
this year, processions from Germany, Belgium, Holland, France, Hungary and even Switzerland 

and Italy, and during the whole of their jour- 
neys the pilgrims sing and pray almost con- 
tinually. The accomplishment of their pil- 
grimages entitles them, by payment of a small 
offering, to certain absolutions and indulgences. 
The pure-minded peasant girl seeks remission 
of sins, the foodless peasant a liberty to eat 
what the expenses of this pilgrimage will per- 
haps deprive 
him of the 
means of ob- 
taining. The 
city was lite- 
rally thronged 
with them, and 
the scene in 
i he market- 
place at night- 
fall was in the 
highest degree 
interesting and 
picturesque. 
They stood in 
the midst, sur- 
rounded by 
buildings of 
all ages and 

forms, ornamented with figures of saints and warriors in stone, bronze, stucco, and wood carved and 
painted. Down every alley and archway is to be seen some venerable morsel of antiquity. Near 
the centre is the market fountain, and close by it a curious Saxon cross or pillar of granite, set up 
in commemoration of the appearance of a fiery cross, said by tradition to have been seen in the 
sky about the year 958. Down the streets before you rises the venerable cathedral, once the 
palace of the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, and given up by her to 
be converted into a house of God, its Byzantine arches of coloured stone giving it the appearance 
of an eastern building. Adjoining it is the beautiful early-pointed Gothic church of our Lady. 
To the left the more ancient Roman gateway called the Porta Nigra. On all sides, mixed up with 
marketable commodities of all colours, booths, and benches, and tables for the sale of rosaries, trinkets, 
and pictures of the holy robe, lie on straw, which is strewn for the purpose, the various groups of 
pilgrims in all the different costumes of their several countries. Some are still praying, always 
aloud, some spreading the frugal meal, or boiling their kettles of brass, or quietly sleeping away 
the fatigues of many a mile. On one hand you still hear the sacred chant or the simple hymn, 
on the other the more boisterous song of mirth, for the beer-glass and the flask are not wanting 
to fill up the measure of variety. 

" Six weeks were appointed for the duration of the exposition of the holy robe, but in consequence 




[OROH OF TH 



I' I REYES. 



148 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



of the continued and increasing numbers of devotees towards the close of the term, an 
week was this year granted. 

" The object of all this interest and devotion, the coat without seam of our Saviour, so 
is a simple tunic, apparently of linen or 
cotton, of a fabric similar to the closely- 
woven mummy-cloth of the Egyptians. It 
is undoubtedly of very high antiquity. Its 
form is precisely that of the modern Arab 
frock or tunic, said by the present natives 
of Syria to be of the same shape as that 
generally worn by all classes from time im- 
memorial. Like the modern dress of the 
Arabs, its colour appears to have been ori- 
ginally blue, though now discoloured by 
time to a rust-coloured brown. When not 
girded up at the waist, it would reach to 
the ancles, the sleeve reaching to the wrist. 
Its history, according to Professor Marx, 
who has written an elaborate account of it, 
a work having the approval of the bishop, 
is authenticated as far back as 1157 by 
written testimony, it having been mentioned 



additional 
said to be, 




JION OF IB K lie I 1 



as then existing in the cathedral of Treves, by Frederick I. in a letter addressed to Hillen, 
Archbishop of Treves in that year. Its earliest history depends wholly on tradition, which says, 
that it was obtained by the Empress Helena in the year 326, while in the Holy Land, whither 
she went for the express purpose of obtaining relics of our Saviour and his followers ; that she 



GEOLOGY OF THE RHINE. 



149 



gave it to the see of Treves, and that it was deposited in the cathedral of that city ; that it was 
afterwards lost, having been hidden in disturbed times within the walls of the cathedral, and 
rediscovered under the Archbishop John I., in 1196; that it was again hidden for the same 
reason, and brought to light, and exposed to the wondering multitude in 1512, on the occasion 
of the famous diet of Treves, under the Emperor Maximilian. 1 Since this last epoch, says the 
author of the work already quoted, ' the history of the Holy Robe has been often discussed, written, 
and sung, because it has been often publicly exposed, and at short intervals, whenever political 
troubles have not prevented.'" 

The Geological Character of this district has recently engaged the atten- 
tion of the savans, not only of Germany, but of England. At the British Asso- 
ciation a paper on the important additions recently made to the fossil contents of 
the Tertiary Basin of the Middle Rhine, was presented by Mr. R. I. Murchison, the 
geologist, whose researches in Russia have made him celebrated. After a sketch 
of the geographical limits and geological relations of the tertiary deposits which 
occupy the valley of the Rhine and Maine, around the towns of Mayence, Frank- 
furt, and Darmstadt, Mr. Murchison gave an account of the recent discoveries 
made by M. H. von Meyer, M. Kaup of Darmstadt, and M. Braun, of Heidelburg. 
Of the animals of this tertiary basin, M. Von Meyer had catalogued, and was pre- 
paring for publication, 68 mammifers, 30 reptiles, 13 birds, and 8 batrachians — 
nearly all being undescribed species, and most of them of small dimensions. 
Amongst the new animals discovered by Mr. Kaup were mentioned the Chalico- 
therium, a genus allied to Anoplotherium and Lophiodon ; the Hippotherium 
differing from the recent Equus in the possession of an additional metacarpal 
bone, and a minute Saurian, named Pisodon Colei. M. Kaup had determined from 
an examination of the remains of various species of rhinoceros, tapir, &c, occurring 
in this deposit, that the Fauna of the period presented a close affinity to the types 
of the Indian and Sumatran archipelago, and were entirely distinct from all known 
European mammalia. He had also collected a large series of mastodontoid 
remains, which completely proved the views of Professor Owen, respecting the 
identity of the American Tetracaulodon with the true Mastodon. The inver- 
tebrata of the deposit have been examined by M. Alexander Braun, and have been 
found to comprise 450 species, 303 of which are mollusca, and 103 shells, — of 
which ten species only were identical with living forms. Many of the shells 
approach closely in form to those in the Calcaire Grossier of Paris, and this cir- 
cumstance, together with the occurrence of the Anthracotherium, and of an animal 
intermediate between the Anoplotherium and Palasotherium, makes it probable that 
the deposit belongs to the same age as the gypsum beds of Montmartre, and the 
Rycle and Binsted strata of the Isle of Wight. These tertiary beds are covered 
with gravel, sand, and loss, containing ninety-six species of shells, fifty-six of 



150 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



which are terrestrial, and forty fluviatile. Of these, seven belong to species now 
living, and nine others are probably varieties of existing species — the most 
abundant species are very rare in a living state, whilst those now common are of 
unfrequent occurrence in the loss. With the shells are associated the remains of 
mammoth, rhinoceros, tichorinus, &c, the bones of which have evidently received 
very little injury from diluvial action ; and from the frequent occurrence of entire 
skeletons, Mr. Murchison infers that these superficial deposits were formed by 
very tranquil operations, and that the great mammalia inhabited tracts immedi- 
ately adjacent to the spots where they are now entombed. Mr. Owen at the same 
meeting stated, that the Mastodon of the Mayence basin was identical with the 
species found in the Norwich Crag, which was likewise a fluvio-marine deposit. 
He had not seen any bones in the English tertiary or drift which could be distin- 
guished from the ordinary horse or zebra, excepting a few teeth, which were more 
curved than usual, and might possibly have belonged to the Hippotherium. 

There has just died at Coblentz, in the prison, called the Convent of the Carmelites, a man 
known by the name of the old Frenchman with the ivhite beard, confined there 32 years, of which 28 
were voluntary. In 1811, a soldier of the 20th regiment of French dragoons was discovered 
asleep, with his head on his knapsack, in the forest of Coblentz, and taken up as a deserter. He 
declared his name to be Antonio Alivera, a native of Aosta, in Piedmont, and that he had received 
his discharge, with a pension of 200 fr. a year, from being subject to fits of mental alienation. The 
authorities left him temporarily in prison. There he remained until the allied troops entered 
Coblentz, 1814, when an order was given to send him and others to a depot of French prisoners. 
This he strongly protested against, declaring that he was not a French prisoner, but an Italian 
discharged from the service. In the course of the next year his father and uncle arrived, and 
obtained his liberation, and took him with them on their way home. At a little distance from 
Coblentz, he suddenly quitted them and returned to the prison, requesting permission to be allowed 
to resume his former quarters. This was allowed, with full liberty granted him to go out when he 
pleased. Notwithstanding this permission, he never left his cell for 28 years, and during that 
period never asked for light or fire, no matter how severe might be the cold. He spent his time 
in making hair rings, ivory thimbles, box paper-cutters, and other little objects, which he sold to 
strangers who came to see him. He was 71 years old at his death; and having never cut his 
beard, which was very long, and of exceeding whiteness, and being of lofty stature, he had a most 
venerable appearance. He died worth 1 100 thalers (about 4000 fr.) which he had saved during his 
imprisonment. 



COBLENTZ. 



151 



INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




COBLENTZ, 



HOTELS. 

Belle Vue. 
Geant. 

Trois Suisses. 
Frierischer. 
Kolnischer. 
Pariser. 

Cheval Blane (at Ehrenbreltstein). 

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN AT COBLENTZ. 

Ehrenbreltstein. 

Monument to General Hoche. 

Monument erected by the French in 1812. 



The street facing the Moselle is very pic- 
turesque, and contains the Town Hall and 
ancient castle of the Electors of Treves. 

The Church of St. Castor, (a. d. 836.) ; on 
this spot the sons of Charlemagne met to divide 
his empire into Italy, France, and Germany ; 
and here also, in 1338, Edward III. of England 
was installed vicar of the empire. 

New palace of the Electors, now used as the 
Palace of Justice. 

Large cellars under the Convent of the 
Jesuits. 



152 



THE RHINE BOOK 



Coblentz is a strongly fortified town on the 
right bank of the Rhine ; it is built on a triangle 
formed by the confluence of the Rhine and 
Moselle ; its population, including that of 
Ehrenbreitstein, together with the garrison, is 
about. 21,500. A bridge of boats connects 
Coblentz with Thai Ehrenbreitstein ; the Thai, 
or valley, joins the mountain, on which stands 
the magnificent fortress of the same name. 

The city of Coblentz was much enlarged 
between the years 1779 and 1787; the more 
ancient part received the name of the " old 
town," and the modern that of the " new town ; " 
there are some good streets in the old town, but 
the houses generally are ill-built ; it, however, 
contains many fine antique edifices. The house 
now occupied by government was formerly the 
palace of Treves. 

An old Dominican convent now converted 
into barracks; the Hotel Von der Leyden, the 
Sub Governor's residence ; the palace Boos 
Waldeck, occupied by the Chief President ; (a 
curious antique head is to be seen under the 
clock in the old market of St. Florian) — and the 
Church of St. Castor, in the new town ; the 
modern palace of the Electors, converted by 
the French into barracks, but now used as a 
Palace of Justice and Court of Assizes, are the 
principal buildings. The new town faces the 
Rhine on one side above the bridge of boats ; 
the other side is towards the Great Square, 
where parade is held with a military band, 
between twelve and one o'clock daily. 

The Casino is a fine place of architecture ; 
it contains a ball-room and reading-rooms with 
prettily laid- out gardens. 

The vaults or cellars under the old Convent 
of Jesuits are often visited ; they are of vast 
extent. 

The beautiful situation of Coblentz annually 
attracts thousands of visitors ; many families, 
particularly English, have lately made it a 
winter's residence ; provisions of every descrip- 



tion are abundant, very good and reasonable. 
Very recently (1840), the Prussian Government 
have liberally appropriated a building for the 
solemnisation of divine service according to the 
rites of the Church of England. The Prussian 
Government are in all respects very liberal to 
strangers. 

Coblentz is beautifully situated ; either ap- 
proached by land or water, it presents a lovely 
picture ; there are also many interesting spots in 
the environs which afford pleasing excursions ; 
the following are amongst the most agreeable : — 
the castle Stolzenfels, on the road to Mayence, is 
one of the most picturesque and imposing feudal 
ruins on the Rhine, placed on the rock called 
the Proud Rock; it was presented to the Crown 
Prince of Prussia by the people of Coblentz, 
who devotes a certain sum annually to its 
repairs, and it is now almost restored to all its 
former magnificence. 

The village and chateau of Sayn. 

The botanic garden at Engers. 

The Lake of Laach, beautifully situated. At 
the opposite extremity of the lake is the pic- 
turesque, but deserted Abbey of Laach, origi- 
nally a Benedictine convent, but during the 
French revolution suppressed, and now converted 
into a farm. 

The castle of Elz. 

Neuwied, and the castle of Marksburg. All 
of these are pleasant excursions from Coblentz. 

From the hill of the Chartreuse most exten- 
sive views are obtained ; it derives its name 
from an old convent that formerly stood there, 
in the place of which now stand the fine Forts 
of Constantine and Alexander. 

It is almost as high as Ehrenbreitstein, which 
citadel is seen to great advantage from this 
point ; on the verge of the hill, on one side, is 
seen the Rhine with the fortified heights of 
Pfaffendorf ; on the other, at the foot of the 
heights, is the river Moselle. 



THE RHINE ABOVE COBLENTZ. 



J 53 



COBLENTZ TO MAYENCE. 



Above Coblentz the 
Rhine contracts in width, 
the mountains rise more 
precipitously from its banks, 
the ruined castles are 
more frequent, and the 
whole aspect of the river 
calls forcibly to mind the 
feudal ages. Niederlahn- 
stein presents the ruins of 
the ancient Church of St. 
John, and above it 
Castle of Lahneck; Ober- 
lahnstein may be recog- 
nised by the red castle of 
the Electors of Mayence. 

Above the small village of Rhense was the Konigstuhl 
a spot equally near to the dominions of all the Electors, and 
selected by them as their place of rendezvous for the settle- 
ment of the affairs of the empire. Many laws have ema- 
nated thence, many treaties have there been signed, and many , 
emperors been elected and dethroned. — The small town of Brau- 1 
bach is indicated by a tall pointed rock, on which is perched the i 
castle of Marksburg, a stronghold still in an admirable state of 
preservation, and affording a very perfect specimen of the feudal 
castle of the middle ages with its towers, passages, winding stairs, 
and dungeons. — The villages of Niederspey and Oberspey, and the 
castle and village of Osterspey, are passed, and then Boppart is J / ; ' 
approached, with its convent of Marienburg, its Roman remains, 
its Church with twin spires, and its highly picturesque streets, full of " bits " for 
the study of the antiquary, the artist, and the man of taste. Sulzig, the next 
village, is noted for its orchards ; and nearly opposite to it are the ruins 
of the castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, more often called the Brothers, 
from the legend connected with them. This tale is always told to the stranger as 
he passes the spot, and he is ever expected to admire the stern virtue of the one 
knight, and to lament the weakness of the other. 




154 THE RHINE BOOK. 




THE BROTHERS, 



39 te Waiter. 




iebensteiNj when in its glory, was the abode of a happy 
I family — a father, two sons, and a young female ward. 
' The father was a venerable knight, who in his youth had 
done good service in the cause of chivalry, and on the field 
of battle had taken charge of the only daughter of a dying 
comrade. As years flew on the old man regarded the child 
! thus bequeathed to him with feelings of increased affection, 
whilst she — young, rich, and beautiful — was an object of 
general admiration. What wonder, then, that almost un- 



r known to themselves, both her foster-brothers should love her, and that this 
love should grow up with their growth, and strengthen with their strength, until 
it became a passion absorbing both their souls. The experienced eye of the 
father was the first to discover the fatal secret, and when he contemplated the 
opposite characters of his children, he felt ill at ease. The eldest was thoughtful, 
cautious, firm in his resolves, and bitter in his resentment ; the youngest was rash, 
impetuous, and changeable ; but both were brave, and fond of resolving all 



LEGEND OF " THE BROTHERS." 



loo 



differences by the general umpire of the times they lived in — the sword. After 
much consideration he called his sons before him, and reminding them that they 
were brothers, told them what he knew of their feelings, and asked for their 
resolve. The young Edith he said loved both as a sister, but would love one to 
wedlock if the other was away, — they could not both win her, and one must 
sacrifice his feelings to the happiness of his mistress, and his brother. 

The scene that followed his words was touching, but short. The youngest son 
displayed an agony of grief, and tore his hair, and called in tones of supplication 
to his elder brother to think of his sufferings if driven from the sight of her who 
was his heart's only happiness. With a noble self-denial this passionate appeal 
was answered by three words, " Brother, I go," and next morning saw the young 
Henry von Beyen on his way to the Holy Wars. 

Time flew on, and the nuptials of Edith with Conrad were approaching when news 
arrived from Palestine of wonders of bravery achieved by the youthful Crusader. 
The father's heart beat high when listening to the tale of the prowess of his noble 
son ; but the brow of Conrad became gloomy as the praises were repeated, and, 
unwilling that his brother, who had been conquered in love, should be most glorious 
in war, the bridegroom forsook the side of his affianced to join the Crusaders. Thus 
left alone the young Edith languished, and her foster-father, after long waiting for 
the return of his sons, pined and died, leaving unfinished the towers of Sternberg, 
which he had raised as a home for his young ward and her husband. 

Meantime rumours reached the castle of Liebenstein of Conrad's boisterous 
gaieties and carelessness to return, and these flying stories were strengthened by 
the return of Henry at the conclusion of the war without his brother. When 
asked by Edith particulars of their career, he ever extolled the bravery of the 
absentee, and held silence of all else; whilst his conduct towards her was ever that 
which a sister should receive. 

Still they waited Henry's return, when on a summer evening there was a sound 
of music approaching Sternberg, and it was soon discovered to be the long-absent 
Crusader approaching his home. Joyfully the vassals went forth to meet him, 
and Edith was already standing on the drawbridge anxious to receive her lover, 
when the news came that Conrad was not alone; — he had brought with him a 
young and beautiful Greek wife! 

Edith was stricken dumb by the perfidy; Henry was at first astonished, and then 
enraged. That night he sent a challenge to the new comer to answer with his sword 
the injustice and insult to his love. At midnight they met, but had no time even to 
speak of the cause of quarrel when the forsaken Edith, who had gained intelligence 
of the intended meeting, threw herself between them. "As you once loved me, 
Conrad; as you ever nobly loved me, Henry, I forbid this. Let no blood be 
spilled for me. To-morrow I enter a convent, and devote myself to God. Nay ! 



156 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



no words, I have a vow : and my prayers shall be given for your happiness, 
and that you may both live in brotherhood and peace together." 

Three years more worked out the tragedy. Edith died in a neighbouring 
nunnery — but not before the gay young Greek wife had brought dishonour on the 
head of Conrad, and to avoid his anger had forsaken him for a new lover. The 
Brothers obeyed the injunction of the dead nun, and dwelt in peace ; but it was 
scarcely three years before the half-finished towers of Sternberg were left to ruin 
by the death of their owner, Conrad, and soon afterwards the closed gates of 
Liebenstein told that the vital spirit of their lord — the last of his race — had 
departed. From that day to this the ruins of Die Briider tell to all who journey 
by the Rhine the sad story of misery and death which there became the penalty 
of False Love. 




'he village of Kes- 
tert is known by 
the ruins of an 
old church with 
a huge rock op- 
posite, the base of which 
is clothed with vines and 
the summit with trees. 
Facing an island passed 
by the steamer stands 
Hirzenach with its ancient 
priory, formerly owned by 
the abbey of Sieburg, now 
surrounded by the huts 
of vine dressers. Ehren- 
thal is noted for its mines, 
some of which yield silver : Welmich is distinguished by a gothic tower, and has 
picturesque environs, with the ruins of the fortress of Thurmberg behind the village. 

The castle of Rheinfels, though now in ruins, is, after Ehrenbreitstein y the most 
imposing structure on the Rhine. In the old days, Count Katzenellenbogen. (a 
capital name for a German robber,) posted himself in this stronghold, and levied 
toll so cruelly upon all passers-by, both on land and water, that the towns on the 
Rhine joined their strength together to abate the tyranny and injustice. Under 
the name of the Confederation of the Rhine they besieged, conquered, and dis- 
mantled Rheinfels ; and then, elated by their victory, marched down upon, and 
destroyed, the fortresses of many baronial freebooters, whose exactions had long 
tormented the country. 




HIRZENACH. 



EXCURSIONS ROUND ST. GOARHAUSEN. 157 



St. Goar, Rheinfels, the 
Castle of the Cat, and St. 
Goarhausen, lying near to- 
gether, should induce the 
Traveller to tarry awhile at 
this point. Should he do so, 
he will find himself amidst 
the most glorious scenery, 
with scope for charming 
excursions on all sides. 
He may visit the ruins of 
Rheinfels ; may attend the 
church founded by St. Goar, 
who first preached Chris- 
tianity to the inhabitants of 
this spot ; may call up the 
echoes of the Lurleyburg, 
which slumber near, or, wandering along the banks of the stream by moonlight, 
may listen for the song of Undine — the nymph who dwells in the whirlpool, and 





158 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



the Rhine 
drink and 



stretch of the Rhine. Crossing the 
stream to St. Goarhausen he may traverse 
the Swiss Valley ; may climb to the very 
brow of the Lurleyburg ; may examine 
the traces of Moorish ar- 
chitecture amidst the ruins 
of the castle of Reichen- 
berg ; and enjoy at every 
turn of his way the most 
varied and striking stretches 
of scenery. If his rambles 
are in vacation time, he 
will doubtless meet some of 
the German students who 
with pack on back and 
book in hand pass their 
holiday from the classes in 
studying the natural features 
of "the Fatherland." He 
will do well to note the love 
of country which marks the 
character of the Burschen, 
and if he be of jovial habits, 
and can enjoy the language, 
LDRLEr, may break a bottle of 

wine with the first student party he meets ; may learn how they can 
smoke ; and may perchance be favoured with a few specimens of the 

23ursrf)m £>ongs. 

A student free I wander here 

Along the banks of classic Rhine, 
And legends old — now gay, now drear, 
Companions are of mine. 
A Burschen bold — I tread the strand, 
The river of my Fatherland. 

I pass'd beneath the Drachenfels, 

And Ehrenbreitstein met my sight ; 
A gush of pride my bosom swells 
When dreaming of its might. 
A Burschen true — I proudly stand 
'Mid bulwarks of my Fatherland. 




OBERWESEL. 



159 



Still as I go, the waters bright 

Reflect the ruins hoar 
Where Marxburgh and where Bacharack 
Call back the days of yore, 
When chieftain bold and trusty band 
Sway'd the fate of the Fatherland. 

The love of the Germans for the Rhine is proverbial over Europe, and this 
feeling appears to have been felt for ages past as strongly as it was on the 
memorable New Year's Night when Blucher passed the river in 1814. 

The Warrior Knight from Holy Land with fame and spoil has come, 

And he bares his brow, and he bends his knee, as he nears his river home ; 

He thinks no more of the Siroc's heat, or the dangers of Palestine, 

But is fill'd with fullest joy again, as he once more sees the Rhine. 

" The Rhine ! the Rhine ! the beautiful ! once more I tread thy strand, — 

The stream of streams, the only lov'd, stream of my Fatherland. 

" The Nile breathes of its Pyramids — of glories sad, but vast; 

And the Ganges through a thousand spots of beauty bright has pass'd ; 

The Tiber in its turbid flood still tells of olden Rome, 

And Danube rolls its hasty stream by many a happy home : 

But the Rhine is the most beautiful — more dear to me the strand 

Of the stream of streams, the only lov'd, stream of the Fatherland." 

BERWESEL with its 

picturesque round 
tower is seen on 
the left bank (on 
the right as the river is 
ascended), with its large 
church, built by Archbishop 
Baldwin of Treves, which 
has a richly decorated Gothic 
interior and many curious 
carvings and monuments. 
The chapel seen near the 
wall of the town, and not far 
from the river, is named after 
Werner, a youth, who is 
said by tradition to have 
been kidnapped by the Jews 
and crucified, — a tale told in 

OBERWESEL . 

many countries as an excuse 
for cruel persecutions and shameless spoliation of the scattered tribes of Israel. 





160 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



) Schonberg, now seen in 
ruins, there came, in its days 
of pride, many cavaliers to 
seek the love of seven beau- 
tiful maiden sisters who 
; but the ladies' hearts were 
1 in place of love, and suitor 
r retired in despair. At 
ever, many knights happened 
to be together at the castle ; and, gather- 
ing courage from good company, they had the hardihood to reproach the damsels 
for their cruelty, and urge them to give no further pain to knightly breasts, by 
choosing from the noble company then present those whom they thought most 
worthy to be their husbands. With a loud laugh at the temerity of their guests, 
they promised to do so, on condition that all the counts, barons, and noble cava- 
liers would assemble in their gayest attire in the great hall of the castle next 
day at sunrise. At that hour they agreed that all should know their fate. 

Never before had the dawn glanced through the painted windows of the hall to 
throw a rich light upon a more glittering company than met together next morning. 
Casques, and plumes, and golden-hilted swords were there in plenty ; and patiently 
did their owners rest, hour after hour, thinking the maidens late, but still hoping 
each to be able, when one of them was his own, to teach her more care for his 
wishes. Suddenly the loud laugh of over-night was heard outside the window ; 
and, looking forth, behold the seven sisters seated in a boat, leaving the castle, 
and, as they sailed down the stream, waving their hands in mockery of the jilted 
company. Loud was the wrath, and louder the oaths (for knights' oaths were often 
as heavy as their swords), when — in a moment — their anger was stayed. The boat 
staggered in her course. Intent upon their cruel jest, the helm was unheeded ; and 
the frail vessel trembled a moment in its struggle with the waters, as though some 
demon had hold upon its keel, and then sunk. For a moment their white dresses 
were seen upon the surface, and for a moment their loud screams for help were 
heard upon the shore, — then all was hushed. From that hour seven rocks mark 
the spot which the boatmen name The Seven Sisters ; and he is a bold man, 
and need be a sound Christian and good helmsman, who would dare pass them 
after sunset ; for the stony points are cunningly hidden beneath the surface, and 
woe to the bark that nears them ! It is said, too, that a delicious voice is some- 
times heard, like that of the Lurley, luring the ear and chaining the spirit, till 
the hapless listener is within reach of the fatal power which seeks his destruc- 
tion. 




BACHARACH. 



161 




falz, Caub, and Gutenfels, are all points of interest, and come quickly 
one after another upon the eye. It was in the curious castle of the 
Pfalz, in the centre of the stream, says tradition, that the wives of the 
Counts Palatine came for safety when about to bless their lords with 
an heir : it was at Caub that Blucher crossed the Rhine : and Guten- 
fels, whose ruins stand above the town, received its name from the beautiful 
Guda, whose love was sought by Richard of Cornwall, Emperor of Germany, 
and brother to Henry III. of England. Here, also, toll is still paid to the Duke of 
Nassau for free passage up or down the stream, he being the only potentate who 
is now allowed to levy such a tax. Time was when upwards of thirty such 
charges were enforced, each owner of a stronghold asserting a right to pillage the 
voyager so soon as he came within reach. 




a.charach is full of antique buildings, and is surrounded by ancient 
walls and watch-towers. It is said to gain its name from Bacchus — a 
tale which deserves to be true on account of the excellence of its wines. 
These were so good in times gone by, that it is said Pope Pius the 
Second (and Popes are all known to be excellent judges) annually sent for a tun of 
it for his own drinking ; and that the Emperor TVenzel was bribed into granting 



162 



THE RHINE BOOK. 





their freedom to the citizens 
of Nuremburg in return for 
four casks of the delicious 
liquor. At this day it is the 
greatest wine mart on the 
Rhine, with the single ex- 
ception of Cologne. The 
high ground above Bacharach 
is crowned by the ruins of 
Stahleck, passing which the 
Traveller is greeted by the 
towers of Nollingen and by 
the village of Lorchausen, 
and soon afterwards by the 
round tower and crumbling 
walls of Furstenburg, which rise above Rheindiebach. This stronghold was dis- 
mantled by the French in 1689. 

Lorch is an antique and quiet town, comfortably ensconced in the opening of 

___ the valley of the Wisperthal. 

It is near here that the pre- 
cipitous mountain of Ke- 
drich raises its head aloft, 
but whose steepness was no 
proof against the steps of the 
Evil One, who rode up its 
side on horseback one night, 
and left behind him some 
marks still pointed out as 
The Devil's Ladder. The 
same feat was afterwards 
performed by a young knight, 
Sir Hilchen von Lorch, who, 
with the help of a few kind 
fairy friends, scaled the 
height to rescue his ladye- 
love, held in duresse upon 
the summit by some spiteful 
gnomes. The Rheingau 
commences at Lorch ; and, 
as we pass it, the castles be- 




RBEISDlEBiOE. 



LEGEND OF BISHOP HATTO. 



163 



come more and more nume- 
rous. Fursteneck is rapidly 
succeeded by Heimburg, Son- 
neck, Reichenstein or Fal- 
kenburg, and Rheinstein. The 
last has been restored, and 
is filled with antique furni- 
ture, made after the fashion 
of "the days of chivalry," 
which the passing Traveller 
may see by asking admission 
at its gates — a favour rea- 
dily granted by the schloss- 
voght. The village of Ass- 
manshausen, which stands on 
the left (as the stream is 
ascended), is another birth- 
place of the Rhine wine ; and 
a little higher up the stream 
stands Ehrenfels, an old castle 
of the Archbishops of May- 
ence ; and the Mouse Tower, 
with its Legend of Bishop 
Hatto, versified by Southey : 

The summer and autumn had been so wet, 
That in winter the corn was growing yet ; 
'Twas a piteous sight to see all around, 
The grain lie rotting on the ground. 

Every day the starving poor 
Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door, 
For he had a plentiful last year's store ; 
And all the neighbourhood could tell 
His granaries were furnish 'd well. 

At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day 
To quiet the poor without delay: 
He bade them to his great barn repair, 
And they should have food for the winter 
there. 



Rejoic'd at such tidings good to hear, 
The poor folk flock'd from far and near ; 
The great barn was full as it could hold 
Of women and children, and young and old. 

Then when he saw it could hold no more, 
Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; 
And while for mercy on Christ they call, 
He set fire to the barn, and burnt them all. 




" I' faith 'tis an excellent bonfire ! " quoth he, 
" And the country is greatly oblig'd to me, 
For ridding it, in these times forlorn, 
Of rats that only consume the corn." 

So then to his palace returned he, 

And he sat down to supper merrily, 

And he slept that night like an innocent man ; 

But Bishop Hatto never slept again. 



Iii the morning as he enter'd the hall 
Where his picture hung against the wall, 
A sweat like death all o'er him came, 
For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. 

As he look'd there came a man from his 
farm, 

He had a countenance white with alarm. 
" My Lord, I open'd your granaries this 
morn, 

And the rats had eaten all your corn." 

Another came running presently, 

And he was pale as pale could be : 

" Fly ! my lord bishop, fly," quoth he. 

" Ten thousand rats are coming this way, 

The Lord forgive you for yesterday ! " 

" I'll go to my tower on the Rhine," re- 
plied he, 

" 'Tis the safest place in Germany ; 
The walls are high, and the shores are 
steep, 

And the stream is strong, and the water 
deep." 

Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten'd away, 
And he cross'd the Rhine without delay, 
And reach'd his tower, and barr'd with care 
All the windows, doors, and loop-holes 
there. 

He laid him down, and clos'd his eyes ; 
But soon a scream made him arise ; 
He started, and saw two eyes of flame 
On his pillow, from whence the screaming 
came. 



B1NGEN. 165 



He listen'd and look'd: it was only the 
cat ; 

But the bishop he grew more fearful for 
that, 

For she sat screaming, mad with fear 
At the army of rats that were drawing near. 

For they have swam over the river so deep, 
And they have climb'd the shores so steep, 
And now by thousands up they crawl 
To the holes and windows in the wall. 

Down on his knees the bishop fell, 
And faster and faster his beads did he tell, 
As louder and louder drawing near, 
The saw of their teeth without he could 
hear. 

And in at the windows, and in at the door, 
And through the walls by thousands they 
pour, 

And down through the ceiling, and up 
through the floor, 

From the right and the left, from behind 

and before, 
From within and without, from above and 

below ; 

And all at once to the bishop they go. 

They have whetted their teeth against the 
stones, 

And now^they pick the bishop's bones ; 
They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb, 
For they were sent to do judgment on 
him. Southey. 




BRIDGE OVER THE NAHE, NEAR BIN GEN . 



Near the Mouse Tower, the river Nahe falls into the Rhine ; near it also is the 



















I 




166 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



Bingenloch, where the stream has been deepened, — a fact recorded on a small 
obelisk seen upon the shore. 

Bingen is a place to stop at for a day or more. Its environs are full of beauty, 
and the town itself has many points worthy of attention. On the summit of a 
hill stands the chapel of St. Rock, a spot visited on the 16th of August, the day 
of that saint, by thousands of pilgrims. Goethe has described the scene presented 
on that day, and in memory of his visit to the town presented to the chapel the 
altar-piece that now adorns it. "It is very evident, " says Dr. Schreiber, "that 
the ridge of mountains near Bingen was formerly obstructed by rocks, which 
opposed a sort of dyke to the waters of the Rhine, and gave rise to the formation 
of an extensive lake between Ladenburg, Spire, Mannheim, Mayence, G-rossgerau, 
and Pfungstadt. This mass of water having risen over the dyke fell with im- 
petuosity to the bottom of the precipice, and it was not till after many ages that 
the river effected a free passage, the rocks being then broken by the violence of 
the current, or more probably, in consequence of one of those grand revolutions of 
nature which sometimes take place." 




RTJDESHEIM, 



EUDESHEIM. 



167 



Rudesheim is alike renowned for wines and ruins — for the comforts of the 
present and the memories of the past. The town is the centre of a vineyard, the 
grapes being grown in great profusion near it, owing to the favourable nature of 
the locality — a secret discovered, it is said, by Charlemagne, who, remarking the 
rapid disappearance of the snow in the slopes about Rudesheim, declared his belief 
that fine wine might be grown there. Sending to France for some plants, they 
were placed in the earth, and have ever since yielded a grape worthy of their 
parentage — a grape still called Orleans. From this town the Tourist may make 
a pleasant excursion to the Niederwald, having first given his attention to the 
history of Rudesheim, once the seat of an Imperial Court held in the Nieder 
Burg, and scanned its four ancient castles. Of these, one belonged for a time to 
Prince Metternich, who, however, sold it to Count Ingelheim, its present pos- 
sessor ; another is picturesquely posted at the upper part of the town, and still 
retains some curious relics of the Bromser family, its old possessors. A tradition 
still exists telling how Hans Bromser, being taken captive in Jerusalem, made a 
vow to Heaven ,that if released he would dedicate his only daughter to the service 
of the church. Gaining his liberty soon afterwards, he returned to the Rhine, to 
find the child he had left when he started for the Crusades grown to womanhood ; 
and he learned also that, secure of her father's sanction, she had betrothed herself 




NEAK M.A.TENCE. 



168 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



to a youthful knight. Love and duty struggled in the maiden's heart when she 
was told of the vow ; but in her young bosom love was strongest, and she begged 
her parent to relent ; but in the hasty bitterness of his spirit he launched at her 
young head a father's curse if she dared to marry. Driven by despair she fled to 
the highest rock on the bank, and plunged headlong into the Rhine, down which 
her dead body floated as far as the Mouse Tower ; and the old gossips of the 
neighbourhood, when they hear that the stream is troubled thereabouts, shake 
their heads, and sigh, " It is the uneasy spirit of Bromser's daughter wrestling 
with the dreadful fate her father drove her to." 

Passing Rudesheim a fine view of the Rhine presents itself. Nearly opposite 
to that town is the village of Kempten, seated at the foot of the Rochersberg. 
The steamer leaves the high banks behind, and in succession passes Geissenheim,— 
Johannisberg, with its fine vines, the property of Prince Metternich, — the villages 
of Winkel, Mittelheim, and Oestrich, — Ellfeld, and its Gothic towers,— Walluff, 
"the gate of the Rheingau,"— Budenheim with its ferry, — Scheirstein, "the 
orchard of the Rheingau," — and Bieberich. Here the Duke of Nassau has a palace 
and a garden, which the visitor is allowed to enjoy. Mayence is now rapidly 
approached, and the Traveller, as he nears that city of Gutemburg, has leisure to 
reflect upon the character of the scenery of the Rhine he has now left behind him, 
and to resolve what portions of it he will make further acquaintance with. 



HEIDELBURG. 




169 



The Trouba- 
dours made May- 
ence their head 
quarters, and 
from its walls 
they issued to 
sing the deeds of 
knighthood, and 
to spread far and 
wide the fame of 
beauty ; and at 
Mayence Gut- 
temburg first 
completed the 



printing press. 
Henry Frauen- 
lob, the most celebrated of the 
Minnesingers, has a tomb in the 
cathedral, to which his body was borne by 
the women of Mayence. Guttemburg has 
a statue in the market-place, raised to his 
memory three centuries after his death 
by the contributions of scholars in all 



parts of Europe. 
The Traveller must 
visit these two me- 
morials of poetry /fSf'« 
and learning, and in ||flO 
searching them out 
will see both the inte- ^H§ 
rior and the exterior 
of the ancient cathe- 
dral of the city, and cannot fail to 
be struck by the mingled styles of 
architecture it displays. He may 
also seek the stone of Drusus, and 




170 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



view the ramparts ; and afterwards see the Teutonic House, where Napoleon for 
a short time resided. 

At Mayence the Tourist has to decide (if he has not previously done so) whither 
he will journey next. Frankfurt, Strasbourg, Baden, and many other points offer 
their attractions. Two places, however, he should visit ere he returns down the 
stream — Heidelburg by way of Mannheim, and Wiesbaden. The former of 
these towns has a splendid ruin Overhanging the Neckar, and a tun memorable 
throughout the world for its capacity, being capable of containing two hundred and 
eighty three thousand bottles ! it is thirty -three feet long, and 24 feet in diameter : 
— the latter offers an excellent idea of the Spas of Germany. 

Heidelburg (grand duchy of Baden) is delightfully situated at the entrance of the valley of the 
Neckar, and the beginning of the Bergstrasse, so much and so deservedly extolled. It contains 
12,635 inhabitants, exclusive of the students ; it has suffered much from the horrors of war ; twice 
it was reduced to ashes, with the exception of one house, which still remains, and gives some 
idea of its former splendour, by the richly decorated facade, ornamented with statues, coats of 
arms, &c. : it is now an inn, called Zum Bitter, from the figure of a knight on the top ; the 
house stands in the Market-place. 

The principal curiosities of Heidelberg are the Castle, which is one of the finest ruins in 
Germany, and commanding extensive views of the valley below. It is also highly interesting from 
its varied fortunes, its truly picturesque situation, and the relics which still remain of ancient 
grandeur, and architectural magnificence. It has three times been set on fire, once by lightning, 
and twice during war. One part cannot fail to be interesting to the traveller, from 
its having been built for the reception of the daughter of James I., the princess Elizabeth 
Stuart, and the grand-daughter of the beautiful but unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. It 
is called the English Palace, and was, with the triumphal arch, erected by her husband, the 
Elector Frederick V., afterwards King of Bohemia, in celebration of their nuptials. 



MAYENCE. 



171 



INTERCHAPTER FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




MAYENCE. 



HOTELS. 

Rhine. 

Angleterre. 

Hollandischer. 

CHIEF THINGS TO BE SEEN IN MAYENCE. 

The Cathedral (a. d. 978.), and the tombs 
within it. 

The Museum, formerly the palace of the 
Electors. 



The Teutonic House, once the abode of 
Napoleon. 

The Public Gardens. 
The Tower of Drusus. 

Mayence is the most important town in the 
territory of the Grand Duke of Hesse- Darm- 
stadt, and the strongest fortress of the German 
Confederation. It is garrisoned by Prussian 
and Austrian troops, commanded by a governor 



172 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



elected alternately from both nations for a 
certain period of years. May e nee is situated 
on the left bank of the Rhine, in a rich and 
fertile country ; it is connected by a bridge of 
boats with the strongly fortified faubourg of 
Cassel. The population of Mayence is about 
31,200 ; the garrison consists of 8000 men. 

The venerable Cathedral, in the centre of the 
town, has suffered much from conflagrations, 
from the being bombarded by the Prussians, and 
afterwards from having been used by the French 
as a magazine and barrack ; a very small portion 
of the original structure now remains ; the 
interior contains many remarkable monuments. 

Mayence also contains a Museum of paintings, 
and many curious antiquities found in the 
neighbourhood ; a monument to Gutemburg ; 
a public library ; and a new and handsome 
theatre. The old Roman tower of Drusus, 
said to be the tomb of Drusus, deserves to be 
visited on account of the fine view it commands 
from the top. 



Outside the fortifications are some public 
gardens, from which a beautiful view of the 
town and the surrounding country is obtained. 
The military Austrian and Prussian bands play 
here. They also play every day on parade 
during the summer months. 

The gates of the town are shut at 10 o'clock, 
and are only opened to those who travel by 
eilwayen or extra-post. 

Wiesbaden is eight miles distant from May- 
ence ; a railroad is now in full operation. 

Railway to Frankfurt in one hour and a 
half: — to Wiesbaden in a quarter of an hour. 

EXCURSIONS FROM MAYENCE. 

Miles. 

Fare Is. to Wiesbaden (Railway) - 6 
Fare 3s. 6d. to Frankfurt ditto - -22 
to Mannheim - 46| 

The best route to Heidelburg is by steam-boat 
to Mannheim, and thence by railway. 



MANNHEIM. 



173 



INTERCHAPTERS FOR THE TRAVELLER. 




MANNHEIM. 



De l'Europe. 
Pfalzer. 
Rheinischer. 
Russischer. 

Mannheim is a large and handsome town in 
the territory of the grand duchy of Baden ; it is 
situated on the left bank of the Rhine. For- 
merly it was a strong fortress, and in consequence 



has been exposed to various sieges : twice it 
has been burnt to ashes by the French and 
Austrians. 

The chief point of attraction at Mannheim 
is the society formed by the amiable Grand 
Duchess and her Court. Many English have 
taken up their residence here chiefly on that 
account. The Palace is a large red structure ; 
a part of it is occupied by the Grand Duchess ; 
one wing is appropriated for the Museum, and 



174 



THE RHINE EOOK. 



another, which contained the Theatre, was 
burnt by the Austrians, and is still in ruins. 
The gardens of the Palace overlook the Rhine, 
and form a delightful promenade. 

In the environs are some private gardens 
situated on the banks of the river Neckar, 
which add much to the beauty of Mannheim. 

The Theatre is good, and its orchestra is not 
to be surpassed in this part of Germany. 

The church of the Jesuits is generally 
visited. 

The gardens Schwetzingen are about 9 miles 



from Mannheim, and can be visited on the way 

to Heidelburg. 

There are diligences daily to Carlsruhe, 

Heidelburg, Frankfurt, and Mayence. 

Mannheim is remarkable for its cleanliness, 

and contains about 20,630 inhabitants. In 

summer this city presents a bustling appearance 
| from the immense number of travellers who 
I disembark here from the steam-packets ; most 
I of them remain a day or two to view the town, 

the gardens, and the environs. 




WIESBADEN. 175 



An English surgeon, Mr. Edwin Lee, in 
his medical work, affords us the best account 
of Wiesbaden, and also an analysis of its 
waters. 

Wiesbaden, the capital of the Duchy of 
Nassau, is about an hour's drive from Mayence, 
and three from Frankfurt. It lies in a valley, 
encircled by low hills ; behind which, on the 
north and north-west, rises the range of the 
Taunus Mountains, whose dark foliage forms 
an agreeable contrast to the brighter green of 
the meadows and the white buildings of the 
town. Within the last few years several new 
streets have been erected : the Wilhelmstrasse, 
fronting the promenades, would bear a com- 
parison with some of the finest streets in 
Europe ; it consists principally of lodging- 
houses elegantly fitted up. The Kurhaus der 
Vier Jahrzeiten, or principal hotel and bathing- 
house, forms one corner of this street and one 
side of a square ; on the opposite side of which 
stands the handsome new theatre, where the 
Mayence company performs during the season. 
Across the road lies a verdant meadow, bor- 
dered by avenues of limes and chestnut trees : 
beyond which are colonnades for shops, and the 
Kursaal, which contains a handsome saloon for 
dinners on fete days and public balls, with 
smaller rooms for refreshment and games of 
hazard. The ground behind this building and 
the colonnades is laid out as a public garden, 
adorned with shrubs and parterres of roses, and 
shaded by acacias and other trees, the resort of 
numerous singing birds. From this pleasure 
ground an agreeable path is continued by the 
side of a streamlet up the valley of Sonnenberg, 
beyond the ruins of the ancient castle. 

Nothing has been neglected to render Wies- 
baden the most frequented watering-place in 
Germany ; the walks and drives are pleasing ; 
and from the rising grounds the Rhine, with 
Mayence and other towns on its banks, are seen. 
A hunting-box of the Duke's stands in a con- 



spicuous position, on an elevated ridge of the 
Taunus, and commands a fine prospect over an 
extensive tract of variegated country, including 
the richest part of the Rheingau. At Biberich 
on the river, four English miles from Wiesbaden, 
the Duke has a chateau where he usually re- 
sides ; the garden is tastily laid out a l'Anglaise, 
and admission is granted to strangers. 

The population of Wiesbaden amounts to 
about 8000 persons, mostly Protestants, consist- 
ing of the military, government employes, 
tradespeople, and others connected with the 
bathing establishments. The people through- 
out the duchy appear to be industrious and 
contented. Sunday is with them a gala day : 
the shops at Wiesbaden continue open, as also 
the theatre and ball-room, which are filled with 
visitors from Frankfurt, Mayence, and other 
parts in the neighbourhood. On these occa- 
sions some hundreds of persons dine at the 
tables-d'hote of the Kursaal, the Vier Jahrzeiten, 
and the Adler. Most of the English visitors 
remaining at Wiesbaden and other watering- 
places on the continent dine at the tables-d'hote, 
private dinners being frequently composed of 
dishes warmed up a second time. 

The springs of Wiesbaden were used in the 
time of the Romans, and have always enjoyed a 
high reputation. Within the last few years the 
place has been greatly frequented by the En- 
glish, to whom it presents many advantages in 
the superiority of its accommodations, its de- 
lightful environs, and its comparatively short 
distance from England, which may be reached 
in four days by descending the Rhine. The 
efficacy of the waters, which are among the 
most powerful of their class, is a great induce- 
ment for invalids to prefer it to other conti- 
nental watering-places ; in some cases, however, 
their action is too exciting, and others less 
powerful, as Baden-Baden, are found to agree 
better. 

The Kochbrunnen, or boiling spring, is the 



176 



THE RHINE BOOK. 



most generally used : it rises in the town, and 
is the central point where a crowd of persons of 
various nations assemble at stated hours to sip 
their glasses of water, while sauntering about 
under the acacia avenues, and listening to the 
musical band. The water is perfectly limpid 
when taken into a glass ; its taste is rather 
agreeable than otherwise, and has been com- 
pared to that of weak broth over-salted ; its 
temperature is 151° Fahrenheit. The carbonic 
acid gas is seen bubbling up to the surface of 
the water ; the quantity contained in a pint 
amounts, according to Ritter, to 6| cubic inches. 
This spring holds in solution a greater quan- 
tity of saline substances than any other of the 
same class ; those of Pyfmont and Borcette, 
perhaps, excepted. The Kochbrunnen supplies 
the public baths and the hospital, which are 
close to it, the hotel of the Vier Jahrzeiten, and 
some bathing-houses. The temperature of the 
spring at the Adler, and of the others, is some- 
what lower than that of the Kochbrunnen ; 
there is, however, no very material difference 
with respect to their chemical composition. 

Used in the form of bath, the water is gene- 
rally exciting ; it stimulates powerfully the skin 
and absorbent system, not unfrequently pro- 
ducing an eruption on the surface, whence the 
excitement is transmitted to internal parts, es- 
pecially the abdominal viscera, increasing the 
activity of their functions, though in many cases 
no perceptible change is experienced at the 
time. Internally taken it promotes digestion, 
sometimes producing an aperient effect : fre- 
quently increases the secretion of the kidneys, 
and acts consecutively upon the skin. Most 
invalids combine the internal with the external 
use of the water. 

A course of this water is specially applicable 
to cases of articular rheumatism, with swellings 
o\ the joints of long duration ; chronic gout, 



particularly when accompanied with calcareous 
deposits; disorder of the digestive powers, with 
vitiated secretion ; strumous enlargement of 
the glands, or disease of bones ; derangement of 
the general health in persons who have long 
resided in tropical climates, as well as that 
caused by intemperance, or the abuse of mer- 
cury, when not attended by exceeding debility ; 
some cases of neuralgia and tic ; amenorrhea, 
and dysmenorrhea, if unaccompanied with a 
high degree of local irritation ; paralytic affec- 
tions, especially if caused by morbid impres- 
sions upon the organic nervous system, and not 
depending upon cerebral disease ; and some 
chronic diseases of the skin. It is also said to 
be efficacious in bronchial complaints and 
asthma, with copious expectoration ; in these 
cases the inhalation of the vapour is joined to 
the employment of the water. Douches, local 
and general vapour baths, are used in many 
cases of local disease, as is also occasionally the 
muddy sediment deposited from the water. 



SOLID SUBSTANCE YIELDED BY 


A PINT OF WATER 


FROM THE KOCHBRUNNEN, 


ANALYSED BY 


KASTNER. 






Grains. 


Muriate of soda 


- 44-225 


Sulphate of soda 


- 0-700 


Muriate of lime 


- 5-480 


Sulphate of lime 


- 0-420 


Carbonate of lime 


- 1 -650 


Muriate of magnesia - 


- 0-790 


Carbonate of magnesia 


- 0-700 


Extractive matter 


- ] -750 


Iron - 


0-07S 


Muriate of potass 


- 1 -200 


Fluate of magnesia 


- 1 -600 




57-593 



APPENDIX, 



DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE WORKS OF ART IN THE 
MUSEUM AT ANTWERP. 



II. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF THE PICTURES IN THE 
MUSEUM AT BRUSSELS 



r. 

NOTICE 

DES TABLEAUX EXPOSE'S AU MUSEE D'ANVERS. 



No. 



Artist's Name. 



Inconnu 



Quinten Metsys, dit le Marechal 
d'Anvers, ne" a Anvers vers 1450, 
mort dans la meme ville en 1529. 



Descript : on. 



Tableau gothique. 

Fete du serment des Archers d'Anvers, dit Jon- 
gen Handboog. 

Elle a lieu devant un chateau ; le roi de la Fete 
est assis sous un dais, dont le fond en dossier 
porte une grande clef en or : on lui verse a 
boire et une jeune dame lui ottre une pomme, 
deux fous, tels qu'ils s'en trouvait aneienne- 
ment attaches aux corps des sennens font leurs 
Esbats de saillie. — Les armes d'Espagne et 
d'Anvers, qu'on voit dans les croisees et autres 
parties du tableau, semblent indiquer que la 
fete a lieu vers la fin du 15 e siecle ; apparem- 
ment a l'occasion du mariage de Philippe 
d'Autriche avec Jeanne d'Arragon. 

Ce tableau a passe pour etre de Hans Verbeeek, 
nomme Hans de Malines. 

Tableaux avec volets. 

L' Inhumation de Jesus Christ. 

Les amis de Jesus, apres avoir descendu son corps 
de la croix, lui rendent les derniers devoirs. 
La Vierge, dont la cuisante douleur s'allie a 
une profonde veneration, s'est prosternee de- 
vant les restes inanimes de son divin fils et leur 
fait ses adorations : St. Jean la soutient . deux 
vieil lards venerables soulevent Tun le chef, 
l'autre la partie sup£rieure du corps du Sau- 
veur, pendant que les saintes femmes en em- 



180 



APFENDIX. 



No. 



Artist's Name. 



Q.UJNTKN MkTSVS 



Inconnu 



Description. 



baument les plaies. On voit a droite sur le 
second plan, le sepulcre, qu'on prepare pour 
recevoir le corps, le calvaire sur un plan plus 
eleve et a gauche la ville de Jerusalem. 
Volet de droite. 

La tete de St. Jean Baptiste sur la table 

d'Herode. 
Volet de gauche. 

Saint Jean dans l'huile bouillante. 

Ces trois tableaux forment un des plus precieux 
monumens de cette epoque de l'art, et on pent 
les considerer comme les chefs-d'oeuvre de ce 
grand maitre, qui d'apres une tradition assez 
generalement re^ue, echangea, inspire" par 
l'amour, le marteau pour la palette, et qui 
d'habile forgeron, devint ainsi un des premiers 
peintres de son terns. 

D'apres Alexandre Van Fornenbergh, le corps des 
menuisiers de cette ville fit faire ces tableaux 
en 1508 et s'arrangea avec le maitre pour la 
somme de trois cents florins. — Un acte, sous 
la date du 26 aout 1511, qui repose dans les 
archives de cette ville, fait supposer que cette 
somme ne lui fut payee qu'en partie et que ce 
corps s'acquitta du reste par la constitution 
d'une rente perpetuelle, au profit des enfans de 
Metsys. Malgre cette penurie apparente il 
refusa, d'apres Karel Van Mander, une offre 
considerable que Philippe II. lui fit faire pour 
ces ouvrages. lis furent sauves des devasta- 
tions exercees par les Iconoclastes, et ayant ete 
vendus en 1577, le peintre Martin De Vos in- 
sista si fortement pres du magistrat, que celui- 
ci se decida a, les acheter. II en fit l'acquisi- 
tion au prix de fl. 1500, et deslors ils ornerent 
la chapelle, que le magistrat avoit dans la ca- 
thedrale, jusqu'a l'epoque de l'enlevement de 
nos objets d'art en 1794, auquel on fut assez 
heureux de les soustraire. 

Au bas du grand tableau se trouve placee l'anci- 
enne pierre sepulcrale de ce maitre, et son 
Epitaphe se voit a cote de l'entree principale 
de l'eglise de Notre- Dame en cette ville. 

La Vierge montre le petit Jesus, qu'elle tient 
assis sur une table. 

L' Adoration des Mages. 

Ce tableau passait autrefois pour etre de Josse 
Van Cleef, surnomme le fou, peintre d'Anvers, 
un des doyens de la corporation de St. Luc de 
cette ville en 1519. 

La Transfiguration. 

Le tableau porte la date de 1 550. 

Le Sauveur descendu de la croix. La Vierge, 



APPENDIX. 



181 



No. 



Artist's Nai 



Description. 



9 | Gilles Mostaert, ne a Hulst, mort 
en 1598. 

lOetll! Adrien Thomas Keii, 1575. 



Francois Pourbus, ne a Bruges en 
1540, mort a Anvers, eleve de son 
pere Pierre Pourbus et de Frans 
Floris. 



Michel Coxie, dit le Raphael, ne a 
Malines en 1497, mort a Anvers 
en 1592, eleve de Bernard Van 
Orley. 



Pierre Breughel, dit le vieux, ne a 
Breughel, pres de Breda : il fut 
recu dans la Corporation de Saint 
Luc de cette ville en 1551. 

Francois de Vriendt, dit Frans 
Floris, ne a Anvers en 1520, mort 
dans la meme ville en 1570. 



St. Jean, la Madelaine, et plusieurs autres de 
ses amis lui rendent les derniers devoirs. 

Huit portraits d'hommes en exvoto ; au milieu 
dans un cadre separe, on voit Jesus Christ en 
croix, entre la Vierge et Saint Jean. 

Exvoto de deux pieces representant l'une les 
hommes, l'autre les femmes de la famille 
Franco-y- Feo-de- Briez. 

Portrait d'homme. 

Tableau de forme ronde et qui semble appar- 

tenir au terns de Pourbus le pere. 
St. Eloy, prechant devant un nombreux audi 

toire. 

St. Eloy, d'ahord orfevre du roi Clotaire II. puis 
tresorier de Dagohert, fut nomme a l'eveehe 
de Noyon en 640. II a ete un des premiers 
apotres du christianisme dans ce pays, et y 
precha vers 650. 

Le Martyre de Saint Sehastien. 

St. Sebaslien fut martyrise a Rome en 288, sous 
la longue et cruelle persecution de Diocletien 
et Maximien : il tenait un premier rang dans 
les armees romaines, et les Chretiens avaient eu 
en lui ju^ques-la un puissant protecteur, quand 
la rage de la persecution l'enveloppa dans le 
sanglant decret de ces empereurs, lequel 
n'epargna ni rang ni condition. 

La tradition porte que le peintre fit ce tableau a 
82 ans. 

Le Martyre d'un saint. 

Le Martyre d'un saint. 

Jesus Christ ressuscite et assis sur son tombeau, 

triomphe de la mort et du peche. 
Le Portement de la Croix. 

Tableau qui fourmille de figures: il est remar- 
quable par Its idees bizarres qu'il represente. 

St. Luc devant son chevalet. 

C'est le portrait de Ryckaert Aerts dit Ryck- 
metter-stelt, peintre et ami de Floris, ne a 
"NVyck-sur-mer en 1482, et (jui mourut a Anvers 
en 1577. Derriere lui est un homme occupe a 
broyer les couleurs. et a ses pieds le boeuf, signe 
symbolique de l'Evangeliste Luc : il porte sur 
le front les armcs de la corporation sous l'invo- 
cation de ce Saint, dont les peintres, sculpteurs, 
graveurs, etc. firent partie. 

La Vierge adore le divin Enfant auquel elle 
vient de donner naissance, derriere elle on voit 
Saii.t Joseph : les bergers accourent et se pros- 
tern ent, en faisant leurs offrandes. 

I, a chute des anges rebelles. 

L'execution de ce tableau doit faire resjetter' 



182 



APPENDIX. 




Description. 



Franc de Vriendt 

Le Titien, ne a Cadore dans le 
Frioul, en 1477, mort de la peste 
a Venise en 1576. 



Inconnu 



Martin de Vos, ne a An vers en 
1524, eleve de Frans Floris et du 
Tintoret : un des doyens de la 
Corporation de St. Luc en 1572, 
mort a Anvers en 1604. 



que le sujet ait jette l'auteur dans un araas de 
tant de bizarreries et d'idees fantastiques. Les 
anges, qui precipitent leurs compagnons re- 
prouves, attestent cependant combien il meri- 
tait le surnom de Raphael de Flandre, qu'on 
lui a donne. 

Portrait d'un Chanoine, derriere lequel on voit 
Saint Luc, 

Le Pape Alexandre VI. presente a. St. Pierre 
l'eveque de Paphos (de la famille venitienne 
Pesaro) qu'il a nomme amiral de ses galeres, 
destinies a agir conjointement avec les forces de 
Venise contre les 'l ures. Pesaro est en habit 
de l'ordre de Saint Dominique, et tient d'une 
main l'jtendard de l'Eglise, qui porte a la partie 
superieure de la banderolle les armes de Borgia. 
Le Tableau porte cette inscription : Ritratto 
uno* de casa Pesaro, che su fatto generale di 
St. Chiesa. Titiano feet. 

Sa Majeste fit present de ce tableau au Musee 
d' Anvers en 1823. 

Une Fete de village. 

Ce Tableau semble etre peint vers le milieu du 

16 e siecle. 
Jesus Christ ressuscite. 

Au cote droit on voit Saint George en pleine 
armure ; a gauche Sainte Marguerite : sur le 
devant Saint Pierre et Paul qui tiennent des 
livres, offrant des passages de l'Ecriture, qui 
traitent de la Resurrection du Sauveur. 

Constantin fait batir a Constantinople l'Eglise, 
qu'il dedia a la Sagesse eternelle, sous le nom 
de Sainte Sophie. On voit cet Empereur, 
avec une suite de sa cour, au milieu des archi- 
tectes et des ouvriers. 

Le Bapteme de Constantin. 

Ces deux derniers numeros ont servis de volets 
au n° 25. 

Les Pharisiens, s'etant joints aux Herodiens, 
veuillent eprouver Jesus et lui tendre une em- 
buche, ou il devait se trouver entre le choix et 
la vindicte de l'autorite et de la haine du 
peuple : ils lui demandent s'il etait permis de 
payer le tribut a, Caesar. Le Sauveur confond 
leur astuce par la sage sentence, qui leur re- 
montre, qu'il y a des devoirs envers le Prince 
com me il y en a envers Dieu. 

La valeur de la modique ofFrande de la pauvre 
veuve. 

Les Apotres trouvent dans un poisson de quoi 

payer le tribut. 
Le Sauveur confond 1'incredulite' de Saint 

Thomas. 



APPENDIX. 



183 




32 
33 



34 



Martin De Vos 



85 

36 
37 

38 

39 
40 

41 



42 
43 



44 



Frantic, dit le Vieux 



Francois Franck, un des doyens de 
la corporation de Saint Luc de cette 
ville en 1588. 



Le Bap t erne de Jesus Christ. 
La Decollation de Saint Jean Baptiste. 
Ces deux derniers numeros ont servis de volet au 
No. 31. 

Les Tentations de Saint Antoine. 

Le sujet est en partie traite dans le style bur- 
lesque, comrae on le represente ordinairement ; 
en partie il est historique, comme montrant 
divers passages de la vie du Saint, le principal 
est celui de la visite que le Saint fit a Saint 
Paul, premier ermite. La legende dit, qu' An- 
toine, etant venu voir celui-ci, il le trouva 
pres de sa fin : a sa priere il le quitta, pour 
aller chercher le manteau de Saint Athanase, 
dans lequel il desirait de mourir ; mais a son 
retour le Saint. Anachorete etait expire. Em- 
barrasse dans les moyens pour mettre le corps 
en terre, deux lions survinrent et firent la fosse. 
Le peintre a aussi eu en vue d'indiquer, par le 
couvent qui s'eleve a droite, que Saint Antoine 
doit etre considere aussi bien comme Patriarche 
des Cenobites que des Anachoretes. 

St. Luc occupe a peindre la Ste. Vierge. 

Ce tableau est peint en 1572 pour l'autel qu'avait 
la corporation de Saint Luc dans la Cathedrale 
de cette ville : Saint Luc est le portrait 
du maitre, et la Sainte Vierge celui de sa 
femme. 

Deux petites Grisailles, representant des actes 
de charite. 

Jesus Christ se fait connaitre, au moment de la 
fraction du pain, des deux disciples, qui 1'avaient 
accompagne a Emaiis. 

La Sainte Congregation des premiers Fideles est 
assemblee, pour l'eleetion de deux Apotres : 
Saint Pierre officie et le Saint Esprit designe 
par des rayons de lumiere Paul et Barnabas. 

La Nativite de Jesus Christ. 



St. Francois et un autre saint de son ordre. 
Les onze numeros suivans representent des 

faits de la vie et des miracles de ces deux 

saints. 

Ce saint compagnon de Saint Francois, encore en 
habits du monde, est agenouille devant l'autel 
de la Vierge. 

II recoit l'habit de Tordre. 

Se trouvant avec le Saint Instituteur, dans un lieu 
sauvage et desert, ils sont miraculeusement 
pourvus de nourriture. 

St. Francois fait sortir sain et sauf d'un four 
ardent un enfant qui y etait tomhe. 



184 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Description 



Francois Fkanck 



Jerome Franck 



54 Ambroise Franck, mi des doyens de 
la corporation de Saint Luc de cette 
ville en 1582. 



Hans Van Der Elburcht, alias 
Klein Hansken, ne pres de Cam- 
pen : re9u dans la corporation de 
Saint Luc de cette ville en 1535. 



Hans Jordaens, ne a Anvers, mort 
a Delft. 

Lambert Van Oort, ne a Amersfort. 



St. Francois preche en pleine campagne, derriere 
lui deux infideles, armes d'arcs et de traits, 
semblent vouloir decharger sur le saint le depit 
et la rage qu'ils ressentent de l'effet que font 
ses paroles sur l'auditoire. 

St. Francois donne la guerison a, divers aveugles, 
perclus, et autres malades. 

Mort de Saint Francois. 

L'attouchement de son corps rend la vie a une 

jeune dame expiree. 
Une femme ofiPre son enfant a St. Francois qui se 

montre dans une gloire. 
Un enfant ressuscite par l'intercession de Saint 

Francois. 

Le tombeau de Saint Francois devenu un objet de 
veneration et de recours, tant pour les puissans 
que pour les malheureux. 

Combat des Horaces et des Curiaces. Grisaille. 

La Cene. 

Jesus benit le calice qui doit circuler entre ses 
Apotres, pour leur etre un des types du testa- 
ment qu'il leur legue. 

Le martyre des Saints Crepin et Crepinien. 

Ces deux Saints d'extraction noble, scellerent la 
foi de leur sang a Soissons, sous une des plus 
cruelles persecutions que l'Eglise eut a 
essuyer. 

Martyre de Saint Come. 

Martyre de Saint Damien. 

St. Sebastien parmi les prisonniers. 

St. Sebastien impose les mains a une dame ro- 
maine, a genoux devant lui. Ce tableau ofFre 
plusieurs portraits, apparemment ceux des 
donateurs. 

On distingue particulierement ces trois derniers 
Franck, nes a Herenthals, qui etaient freres 
et peintres d'histoire, dont Francois £tait l'aine, 
Jerome le second, et Ambroise le cadet : ce 
dernier vivait encore en 1600. 

Le Sauveur en croix entre la Vierge et Saint 
Jean ; la Madelaine, a genoux, adore son 
divin Maitre. 

Le miracle de la multiplication des pains. 

Depuis trois jours une troupe nombreuse 
suivait Jesus dans le desert ; elle etait sans 
nourriture. Le Sauveur eut pitie d'elle, 
et opera ce celebre miracle par lequel il rassasia 
cinq mille hommes de cinq pains et de deux 
poissons. 

Pharaon perit avec son armee dans la mer rouge. 

La Resurrection de Jesus Christ. 
Suite de sept Sybilles. 



APPENDIX. 



185 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Martin Pepyn, Contemporain de 
Rurens. II quitta jeune encore 
la patrie, pour aller se perfectionner 
en Italie : l'acceuil qu'on y fit a 
ses talens l'y fixa, et nous possedons 
peu de ses ouvrages. 



Octavio van Veen (Otto Venius.) 
ne a Ley den en 1556, mort a 
Bruxelles en 1636, eleve d'Isaac 
Swanenburg : un des doyens de la 
corporation de Saint Luc de cette 
ville en 1605. 



Pierre Paul Rubens, nea Cologne, 
de parens Anversois, le 28 Juin, 
1577, mort a Anvers le 30 Mai, 
1640, eleve d'Adam Van Oort et 
d'Octavio Van Veen, un des doyens 
de la corporation de Saint Luc de 
cette ville en 1631. 



Les Israelites ont passe la mer rouge, qui se 
ferme sur Pharaon et son armee. 



St. Luc preche l'Evangile a une multitude de 
tout age et de tout sexe, reunie en pleine cam- 
panile. 

Ce tableau ornait la salle aux reunions de la cor- 
poration de St. Luc. 

Acte de charite de Saint Nicolas. 

St. Nicolas instruit de l'etat de detresse, dans 
lequel se trouve une famille honnete, vient 
la nuit, pour ne pas etre reconnu, et lui 
jette, pendant qu'elle travaille autour d'une 
lampe, un sac d'argent a travers la croissee 
ouverte. 

Divers miracles de Saint Nicolas. 

Le maitre represente particulierement dans ce 
tableau la multiplication du froment. 

La vocation de PApotre Mattbieu. 

Jesus, passant devant le bureau d'impots de Cap- 
harnaum, vit Matthieu, un des commis de la 
recette, il l'invite a le suivre : Mattbieu y 
repond par une pleine docilite et un entier 
abandon. 

Zacbee sur le figuier. 

Desireux de voir le Sauveur, qui passait 
par Jericbo, Zachee, un des principaux 
publicains, empeche par la foule qui I'en- 
tourait, monte sur un figuier : Jesus l'apper- 
cevant, l'invite a. descendre et lui demande 
l'hospitalite. 

St. Luc devant le proconsul. 

II defend avec dignite devant son juge la Doc- 
trine de son divin maitre. 

Ce tableau a ete peint pour la corporation de 

Saint Luc, dont il ornait la salle aux reunions. 

Portrait de Sonnius, premier eveque d'An- 
vers. 

Le Sauveur en croix entre les deux larrons. 



Ste. Therese intercedant pour les ames du pur- 
gatoire. 

Le Sauveur mort entre les bras de son pere ; le 
Saint Esprit descend sur cette scene, qui re- 
presente la Sainte Trinite. 



186 



APPENDIX. 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 


75 


Pierre Paul Rubens. 


L'Education de la Sainte Vierge. 


76 




La Communion de Saint Francois. 
St. Francois d'Assise sentant approcher sa fin, 
s'est fait conduire au pied de l'autel pour y 






recevoir le Viatique. 
11 existe dans la famille Vande Werve, de cette 
ville, la quittance que Rubens donna de 750 
fl s qu'il re9ut pour ce tableau, dont voici la 
teneur : 

Ic onderschrevenbekenne ontfanghe te hebben it handen 
van Mynheer Jaspers Charles desomma van zeven hon- 
dert en vyftig guldens, tot volkomen betalinghe van een 
stuck Schildery door myne liandt gemaeckt, staende in 
Ste. Franciscus Kercke tot Antwerpen. Ende t'oirconde 
der waerheydt hebbe ic dese quittancie gescreven en on- 
derteekent deze 17 May 1619. 
(geteekenz.) Pietro Pauolo Rubens. 


77 




L'Adoration des Mages. 


78 




Repetition ou imitation en petit de la Descente 
de Croix de l'eglise de Notre- Dame de cette 
ville. 


79 




Jesus Christ montre ses plaies a St. Thomas. 


80 


_ 


Le portrait de Nicolas Rockox, Bourgnemaitre 
de cette ville, ami de Rubens. 


81 




Le portrait d'Adrienne Perez, son epouse. 

Ces deux derniers numeros formaient les volets 






du n°. 79, avec lequel ils formaient l'Epitaphe 
de ce Bourguemaitre dans l'eglise des Recol- 










lets de cette ville. 


82 




Le Sauveur descendu de la croix. 






Le corps du Sauveur, pose sur une pierre, est 






soutenu par la Vierge, Saint Jean et Saint 






Joseph d'Arithmatie, derriere lesquels on voit 






la Madelaine. 


83 




St. Jean Evangeliste. 


84 


- 


La Vierge avec l'Enfant Jesus. 
Ces deux derniers numeros formaient les volets 
du n°- 82. 


85 
86 


- . 


La Vierge, l'Enfant Jesus, et St. Joseph. 

On croit que Rubens fit present de ce tableau 

a. la corporation de Saint Luc, dont il ornait la 

salle aux reunions. 
Le Sauveur en croix. 


87 




Esquisse d'un Char triomphal, qui a servi pour 
l'entree solennelle de l'archiduc Ferdinand. 


88 




T^QnniQQP rl'nn <tvo rip trnm"nVip 

XJolJUlooC KX Llll alt *_IC tiUlllULlC. 


89 




Esquisse d'un arc de triomphe. 
Ces deux derniers Esquisses ont egalement servi 
a l'occasion citee au n Q . 87. 


90 


Henry Van Balen, ne a Anvers, 


Un concert d'anges. 




eleve d'Adam Van Oort : un des 




doyens de la corporation de Saint 






Luc de cette ville en 1609. 




91 




Un Idem. 



APPENDIX. 



187 



Artist's Name, 



Description. 



Abraham Janssens, ne et mort a 
Anvers : un des doyens de la cor- 
poration de Saint Luc de cette vilie 
en 1607. 



Theodore Rombouts, ne a Anvers 

en 1597, eleve d'Abraham Janssens ; 

un des doyens de la corporation de 

Saint Luc de cette ville en 1628, ou 

il mourut en 1640. 
Gaspar de Craeyer, ne a Anvers en 

1585: eleve de Coxie, mort a 

Bruxelles dans 

avance. 

CORNEILLE DE VoS, 

des doyens de h 
Saint Luc de 
1619. 



un age tres- 

ne a Hulst ; un 
l corporation de 
cette ville en 



Simon de Vos, ne a Anvers en 1603. 



Jacques Jordaens, ne a Anvers en 
1594, mort dans la meme ville en 
1678 : eleve d'Adam Van Oort et 
de Rubens. 
Jacques Jordaens 



Le fleuve l'Escaut et la ville d' Anvers ; allegorie ; 

figures de grandeur colossale. 
Ce tableau ornait autrefois la salle d'audience du 

magistrat de cette ville. 
L' Adoration des Mages. 
La Vierge, 1' Enfant Jesus, et Saint Jean. 
La Sainte Famille dans un paysage : le paysage 

est par Wildens. 



Elie dans le desert 



La Famille Snoeck offrant des ornemens d'eglise 
a l'abbe de l'abbave de St. Michel a Anvers. 



Le Concierge de la corporation de Saint Luc, 
d' Anvers. 

II est decore de medailles et place devant une 
table, couverte de riches gobelets en vermeil ; 
triomphes remportes, ou presens de souverains 
et de princes, que cette corporation possedait 
et que les bouleversemens politiques ont fait 
disparoitre. Un de ces gobelets fut donne a 
la Corporation par la noblesse d' Anvers ; il 
portait les portraits de Jean Van Eyck et 
d' Albert Durer. 

St. Norbert et un autre Saint agenouilles devant 
le Saint Sacrement. 

Exvoto ; portraits de deux epoux agenouilles de- 
vant la Sainte Vierge. 

Exvoto d'une Famille en priere ; il se compose 
de deux pieces. 

L'Adoration des Mages. 

Exvoto. — Un Donateur et Saint Guillaume. 
Exvoto. — Une Donatrice et Sainte Barbe. 
L'Adoration des Bergers. 



Les Sceurs hospitalieres de Sainte Elisabeth. 
Le Sauveur mis an tombeau. 
Le Pegase. 

Ce tableau a servi autrefois de piece de plafond 
dans la salle aux reunions de la corporation de 
Saint Luc. 

La Cene. 

La Loi Humaine basee sur la Loi Divine. 
Ce tableau ornait autrefois la salle aux reunions 
de la corporation de Saint Luc. 



188 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Antoine Van Dvck, ne a Anvers 
en 1599, eleve de H. Van Balen 
et de Rubens : un des doyens 
de la corporation de Saint Luc 
en 1634; mort a Londres en 
1641. 



Le meme, ou dans sa maniere 
Gerard Seghers, ne a Anvers en 
1589, mort dans la meme ville en 
.1651, eleve de H. Van Balen. 



Daniel Seghers et Corneille Schut. 
Seghers naquit a .Anvers en 1590: 
il fut £leve de Breughel, dit de 
Velours. II entra comme frere- 
lai dans la Societe de Jesus, et 
mourut a Anvers en 1660 



Corneille Schut, ne a Anvers en 
1590, mort dans la meme ville en 
1676 ; eleve de Rubens 



Theodore Van Thulden, ne a Bois- 
le-Duc en 1607, eleve de Rubens: 
il travailla avec lui a la galerie du 
Luxembourg, et fut un des doyens 
de la corporation de Saint Luc en 
1638. 



Jesus Christ en croix, Saint Dominique, et Saitite 
Catherine de Sienne. 



Le Sauveur mort sur les genoux de la Vierge. 
Meme sujet differemment traite. 
La tradition porte que ce tableau a ete peint en 
Italie. 

Portrait de Caasar Alexandre Scaglia, un des ne- 
gociateurs pour l'Espagne au congres de 
Minister : il est appuye sur un piedestal, por- 
tant une inscription, qui fait connaitre cette 
circonstance. 

Ce portrait ornait la ci-devant eglise des Recol- 
lets de cette ville. 

Jesus Christ en croix : tableau de petite dimen- 
sion. 

Portrait de Malderus, Eveque d' Anvers. 
Saint Stanislas, entrant dans l'ordre de Saint Jg 
nace. 

Le mariage de la Vierge. 

La Vierge tient 1' Enfant Jesus, auquel Sainte 

Claire fait ses adorations. 
Sainte Therese. Un ange lui enflamme le cceur 

de l'amour divin. 
La Vierge au scapulaire. 
Le Sauveur recoit en grace les pecheurs. 
Une grande guirlande de fleurs, au milieu de la- 

quelle on voit Saint Ignace, peint par Schut. 



Une guirlande de fleurs entoure l'image de la 

Vierge, egalement peint par Schut. 
Le Martyre de Saint George. 



Le Sauveur et la Vierge donnent a Saint Fran- 
cois l'indulgence dite Portiuncula. 

Esquisse d'un arc de triomphe, qui a servi a l'oc- 
casion de l'entree de l'archiduc Ferdinand. 



Esquisse d'un autre arc de triomphe, ayant servi 

a la meme occasion. 
Des assassins presentent une coupe empoisonnee 

a, un religieux de l'ordre de Saint Francois : on 



APPENDIX. 



189 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Theodore Van Thulden 

Francois Snyders, ne a Anvers en 
1579, mort dans la meme ville 
en 1657; eleve de Henry Van 
Balen. 



Luc. Francojs, ne a Malines en 
1574; mort dans la meme ville en 
1643. 



H. P. Franck 



Adam Willaerts, ne a Anvers en 
1577 ; mort a Utrecht. 

Guii.i.aume Nieulandt, ne a An- 

* vers en 1584, mort a Amsterdam 
en 1635; eleve de Savary. 

Pierre Van Mol, ne a Anvers en 
1580, mort a Paris en 1650; eleve 
de Rubens. 

Deodat Del;uonte 

Jean Van Bronckhorst, dit Langen 
Jan, ne a Utrecht en 1603. 

David Teniers, le Jeune, ne a An- 
vers en 1610: il fut eleve de son 
pere et doyen de la corporation de 
Saint Luc en 1644. II est un des 
premiers directeurs de l'academie 
de dessin de cette ville, pour la- 
quelle, conjointement avec ses con- 
freres, il sollicita et obtint en 1663 
de Philippe IV., roi d'Espagne, le 
titre d'Academie Royale. 



voit au haut du tableau la Vierge dans une 
gloire. 

Saint Francois dans une gloire. 

Le portrait du Bernardin Van Thulden. 

Du Gibier sur une table. 



Des Cygnes dans l'eau, qui se defendent contre 
un chien. 

Saint Joachim, Sainte Anne, et la Vierge. 



La Vierge presente le petit Jesus a un Saint 
Carmelite. 

Apparition de Saint Antoine de Padoue, entoure 

d'anges dans une gloire, aux fideles qui vene- 

rent son tombeau. 
Ce tableau ornait Tepitaphe d' Alexandre Vanden 

Broeck et de son f'rere. 
Fete donnee a Tervuren a leurs altesses royales 

Albert et Isabel le. 
Vue du Forum et du Campo-vaccino a Rome. 



L' Adoration des M£ffes. 



La Transfiguration. 

Le portrait d'un homme d';"ge. 

Valenciennes secourue. 

Valenciennes se trouvait serree de tres-pres, en 
1656, par Tarmee Francaise, sousles ordres des 
marechaux DeTurenne et De la Ferte; quand 
les Espagnols, commandes par Don Juan d' Au- 
triche, fils naturel de Philippe IV. et de Marie 
Calderonne, commedienne, qui avait avec lui 
le Grand Conde, que des mecontentemens 
avaient fait quitter la France pour s'attacher a 
PEspagne, vinrent a son secours. La Ferte 
avait une position tres-desavantageuse et se- 
paree du corps de Turenne par l'Escaut : celui- 
ci, qui en sentit tout le danger, tacha de per- 
suader La Ferte de mettre la riviere entre lui 
et 1'ennemi, et de joindre leurs forces, mais in- 
utilement : aussi La Ferte fut il attaque et de- 
fait, et Turenne n'opera sa retraite, qu'a travers 
les plus grandes difficultes. 

Le centre du tableau donne le plan de la ville, 
celui de la position des armees et de leurs 
mouvemens d'attaque et de defense. Dans la 
partie superieure, on voit la ville de Valen- 



190 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Pierre Thys, ne a Anvers, un des 
doyens de la corporation de Saint 
Luc en 1666 ; eleve de Antoine 
Van Dyck. 



Jean Erasme Quellin, nomme le 
Vieux ; ne a Anvers en 1607, 
mort dans la meme ville en 1678 ; 
eleve de Rubens. 

Jfan Erasme Quellin, nomme le 
Jeune; ne a. Anvers en 1629, 
mort dans la meme ville en 1715; 
eleve de son pere. 



Description. 



ciennes, que le peintre a placee sous la protec- 
tion du Saint Sacrement et de la Vierge. Le 
premier represented avec les accessoires du Sa- 
crement de Miracle, se trouve au milieu d'une 
gloire, formee d'une quantite d'anges, dont plu- 
sieurs tiennent baisses et comme trainants des 
drapeaux pris sur l'armee Francaise. 
Le tableau est encadre en son entier dans une 
espece d'arc de triomphe, forme d'une multi- 
tude d'armures et d'instrumens de guerre, ren- 
dus avec une grande verite et d'une execution 
admirable, au milieu desquels on voit, a la par- 
tie inferieure, en bronze, le buste de Philippe 
IV., tenu par Minerve et Hercule. Minerve 
foule aux pieds la Discorde, et a cote d'Her- 
cule le Lion Espagnol tient le Coq, symbole de 
la France, sous ses griffes. De chaque cote 
sont plusieurs portraits, en medaillon, parmi 
lesquels on distingue ceux de Don Juan et de 
Conde. 

Sa Majeste fit present de ce tableau au Musee 

d' Anvers en 1823. 
L'Assomption de la Vierge. 



Un ange presente Saint Francis a. Jesus Christ 

et a la Vierge. 
La Vierge apparait a Saint Guillaume due d'Ac- 

quitaine. 
Portrait d'homme. 
Icare et Dedale. 

Saint Brunon guerit par le signe de la croix un 
homme de la morsure d'un serpent. 



Un Enfant est ressuscite par un Saint Eveque. 

Les trois numeros qui suivent forment un trait 
de l'histoire de nos guerres civiles vers le mi- 
lieu de 16 e siecle, et representent les Martyrs de 
Gorcum 

Le premier fait voir deux Religieux, premontres, 
conduits par une forte garde, a pied et a cheval, 
vers une prison, devant laquelle se trouve deja 
un grand nombre de personnes de difFerens 
sexes et conditions. 

Dans le second on voit dans une des salles d'une 
abbaye le tribunal qui va prononcer sur leur 
sort. 

Dans le troisieme on voit le supplice des con- 
damnes, qui a lieu dans une grange. 

Le Sauveur au repas de Simon le Pharisien, la 
pecheresse est a ses pieds. 



APPENDIX. 



191 



No. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



154 



155 
156 



156* 

157 
157* 

158 

159 
160 
161 

162 

163 

164 
165 



166 
167 
168 



169 



Jean Erasme Quellin 



Gaspar Van Opstal, un des doyens 
de la corporation de Saint Luc, et 
un des directeurs de 1' Academie de 
cette ville en 1 598. 

T. Bof.yekmane, eleve de Antoine 
Van Dyck. 



Thierrv Van Dei.en et Boeyer- 
mans. Van Del en naquit a Heus- 
den : il fut eleve de Francois 
Hals, norissait en 1625, et mourut 
a Arnemuyden en Zelande. 

Keeiungs et A. Genoei.s 

G. Maes, un des doyens de la corpo- 
ration de Saint Luc, et un des di- 
recteurs de P Academie de cette 
ville en 1682. 

Pierre Van Lint 



Saint Brunon recoit du Pape l'approbation de sa 
regie. 

Le Martyre de Sainte Agathe. 
La Piscine de Bethsa'ide. 

Ce tableau, qui pour la dimension est un des 
plus extraordinaires que Pon ccnnoisse, est aussi 
une des plus fastueuses compositions que la 
peinture ait produites, et le chef-d'oeuvre 
reconnu de ce maitre. 

La partie superieur du tableau representant La 
Piscine de Bethsa'ide. 

Cette magnifique composition servait d'epitaphe, 
comme le temoigne Pinscription placee au bas 
du numero 156. 

Portrait de Gaspar Nemius, 6 e eveque d'Anvers. 

Portrait de Aub. Vanden Eede, 8 e eveque d'An- 
vers. 

Jesus Christ apparait a Saint Jean de la croix, 
Carmelite. 



Personnages de haut rang, qui se presentent 
devant un jeune monarque. 

Jesus Christ la Source du Salut et de la Gueri- 
son : tableau allegorique. 

L' Academie d'Anvers, mere nourriciere de la 
peinture, distribue des encouragemens : on y 
voit les portraits de Rubens et de Van Dyck 

Ce tableau represente une Reunion de Famille : 
on y distingue une vieille dame en habits de 
devote, deux jeunes epoux et deux ecclesias- 
tiques : la tradition dit, que cette famille se 
distingua par ses bienfaits envers le Seminaire 
de cette ville. 

Dans une magnifique architecture, qui represente 
le temple de la Paix, on voit cette bienfaisante 
Deesse, entouree de la Peinture et de la Poesie, 
dont elle est la protectrice : des genies chassent 
du temple le demon de la discorde. 

Minerve et les Muses dans un paysage. Le pay- 
sage est de Keerings. 

Le Martyre de Saint George. 

Saint George occupa un rang distingue dans les 
armies Romaines : il fut decapite sous Dio- 
cletien. 

Le portrait d'un frere Cellite. 
Sainte Catherine. 

Portrait du Cardinal Ginnazio, patron de Pau- 
teur. Une inscription sur ce tableau porte 
que par cet ouvrage il remporta le prix a 
Rome en 1639. 

Reunion de plusieurs personnes des deux sexes, 
qui se reposent au bord d'une riviere. 



192 APPENDIX. 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 


170 


Jean Cossiers, ne a. Anvers en 1603, 
eleve de Corneille de Vos; un des 
doyens de la corporation de Saint 
Luc en 1639. 


L' Adoration des Bergers. 


171 




Meme sujet que le numero precedent, de moindre 
dimension, et varie pour la composition. 


172 


- 


Un Gentilhomme allumantsa pipe: il est aecom- 

pagne d'un page, qui lui verse a boire. 
La Flagellation. 






173 


- 


174 




Portrait d'un Chirurgien. 


175 


Jean Van Hoeck, neetmort a Anvers 


Saint Francois fait ses adorations a la Vierge. 


176 


P. Thys, Dominicain a Anvers. 


Le Sauveur descendu de la croix. 


177 


Raphael Van Orley 


Marche triomphale du Pape et de I'Empereur 
Charles Quint a Rome. 


178 


Herreyns, nomme le Vieux, ne et 
raort a Anvers. 


Le Pere eternel. 


179 


Van Thielen 


Une guirlande de fleurs. 


180 


N. Eyckens, nomme le Vieux, ne et 
mort a Anvers. 


Ste Catherine disputant avec les philosophes. 


181 




Portrait d'homme. 


182 


Adrien de Backer, ne et mort a 


La Justice regagne par la paix les forces qu'elle 
avait perdues pendant les desordres de la 
guerre et Tanarchie des troubles. Allegoric 




Amsterdam. 


183 


Thomas Willebrordts Bosschaert, 


Le Sauveur en croix, la Madelaine et Saint 




ne a Bergen- op-Zoom en 1613, 


Francois. 




mort a, Anvers en 1656, eleve de 




Gerard Segers. 




184 


Jean Van Kessel, ne a, Anvers en 
1626, mort dans la meme ville. 


Concert d'oiseaux. 


185 


Jean Feydt, ne et mort a Anvers 


Des Chiens de chasse et du Gibier mort. 


186 


Jean Sibrechts, ne et mort a An- 


Deux religieux de l'ordre de St. Francois, dans 




vers : le tableau porte la date de 


un paysage agreste, dans lequel on voit rassem- 




1666. 


blee une quantite d'animaux de toute espece. 


187 


Antoine Gobau, ne et mort a An- 


Reunion d'artistes a Rome. Le tableau porte 




vers. 


1'annee 1668. 


188 




Vue de la Place Navona a. Rome. 


189 


Godefroi Kneller, ne a Lubeck, 


Le portrait du chanoine Cockx, chantre de la 




peintre de Charles II. et de 


Cathedrale d' Anvers. 




Jacques II. Rois d'Angleterre. 




190 


Marc Antoine Garibaldo 


La Fuite en Egypte. 


191 


Van Minderhout 


Vue d'un port du Levant, au soleil couchant. 


192 


Inconnu 


Un Hyver. 


193 




Deux jeunes Filles : une d'elles apprete un Bou- 
quet, l'autre carresse une Brebis. 


194 


- 


Un Berger joue de la flute devant sa bergere, 
pendant que celli-ci pare une brebis. 


195 


Jean Peeters 


L'Escaut pris devant Anvers. On voit nombre 
de personnes sur la glace ; des tentes et meme 
des voitures chargees. 


196 


Van Es 


Nature morte. Une cruche a vin, des citrons 
coupes, et un couteau. 


197 


Balth. Vanden Bossche, ne et mort a 


Reunion du serment de l'arbalete. 




Anvers : le tableau est peint enl 71 1. 


Mr. le Bourguemestre est introduit dans l'assem- 



APPENDIX. 



193 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 






blee et complimente a l'entree par les Doyens. 






Les figures de ce tableau presentent autant de 






portraits. 


198 


Govaerts 


Assemblee des confreres du meme serment de 
l'arbalete. 

Ce tableau est enrichi de l'illustration d'un pro- 
tecteur, represents allegoriquement, 


199 


Balth. Besschey, ne a, Londres 
d'un pere Anversois en i 709, mort 
a Anvers en 1776: un des direc- 
teurs de cette academie en 1756. 


Joseph vendu par ses freres. 


200 


- 


Joseph Vice-roi d'Egypte : devant lui sont ses 
freres qui viennent s'approvisioner en grain. 


201 


- 


Portrait du peintre, il a la palette en main. 


202 


Verhagen, ne et mort a Louvain 


Agar et son fils renvoyes par Abraham. 


203 


Tassaert, surnomme V Anglais 

P. Snyers, norame le Saint, ne a 


Reunion de philosophies. 


204 


Un paysage orne de fleurs, d'insectes, etc. 




Anvers, il y mourut en 1752. 


205 


Martin J. Geeraerts, ne a Anvers 


Bas-relief, representant les Beaux- Arts. 




en 1706, mort dans la meme ville 




en 1 791 : un des directeurs de cette 






academie. 




206 


Anrre Lens, ne a Anvers en 1739, 
mort a, Bruxelles en 1 822, un des di- 
recteurs de cette academie en 1763. 


L'Annonciation. 


207 


- 


Le portrait du graveur Martinasie : il travaille a 
la planche de l'Enlevement des Sabines, d'apres 
le tableau peint par Rubens. 


208 


- 


Hercule prend sous sa protection les Arts contre 
l'envie et l'ignorance, qu'il terrasse a. coups de 
sa formidable massue. 


209 


Kerckx 


L'Agneau de Dieu dans une gloire, au milieu 
des bienheureux. Au haut du tableau on voit 






le Pere eternel entoure d'anges. 
Les Israelites, prets a sortir d'Egypte, mangent, 
d'apres le prescrit de Moise, l'agneau- pascal. 


210 


Kerckx 










On voit l'ange exterminateur qui frappe les 






premiers-nes des Egyptiens. 


211 


Inconnu 


Blazons de nos anciennes societes de Rhetorique. 



COPIES. 



212 Par P. Thys, Dominicain a Anvers 



213 Inconnu d'apres Rubens 



Saint Ambroise refusant a l'Empereur Theodose 
le Grand l'entree du temple de Milan, pour 
n'avoir pas expie le crime du massacre de Sa- 
lonique. L'original se trouve a la Galerie 
Imperiale de Vienne. 

La grande chasse au lion. 



c c 



194 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Idem d'apres Van Dyck 
Copies d'apres Van Dyck 



Inconnu d'apres Le Titien 
Idem d'apres Paul Veronese 
Idem d'apres De Wit 
Idem d'apres un Inconnu 



Silene ivre : il est soutenu par des satyres et une 

bacchante. 
Saint Pierre. 
Saint Paul. 
Tete de Madelaine. 

Portrait de l'lnfante Isabelle Claire Eugenie. 

Portrait de l'eveque d'Anvers Malderus. 

Portrait d'un abbe. 

Jesus rejette pour Barrabas. 

Le centurion aux pieds du Sauveur. 

Un jeune homme dessinant. 

Portrait du Pape Pie VI. 



M ARB RES. 



Arthur Quellin 

Kerrickx, ne et mort a Anvers : un 
des Directeurs de cette Academie 
en 1692. 

Louis Willemsens 



P. Van Baurscheit, 1700 

Charles Geerts, Professeur a 1' Aca- 
demie de Louvain, Artiste vivant. 
Guill. Geefs, Artiste vivant 
Inconnu 

David Teniers, le Jeune 

Jacques Jordaens 

Ambr. Francken, dit le Vieux, 
Eleve de Martin De Vos, doyen 
de la corporation de St. Luc, en 
1581 — 1582, mort en 1619. 



Jean B. Francken, Fils et eleve de 
Sebastien Francken, ne a Anvers 
vers l'an 1596. 

Gaspard Van Opstal 

Jean Van Orley 

Pierre Van Lint, ne" a Anvers en 
1609, mort dans la meme ville en 
1668. 



Le Buste de Louis Benavides, Marquis de Cara- 
cene, etc. 

Buste de son Altesse Maximilien Emanuel de 
Baviere, gouverneur des Pays-Bas Espagnols. 

Buste de Jean Dominique de Zuniga et Fonseca, 
comte de Monterey, gouverneur des Pays-Bas 
Espagnols. 

Buste d'un jeune personnage dehaut rang; il est 

decore de l'ordre du Saint Esprit. 
Quinten Matsys ; statue de grandeur naturelle. 

Buste du Roi. 

Deux Bustes en marbre blanc et noir. 

Vue de Flandre. Sur le devant se trouvent des 

fumeurs ; le fond est un paysage. 
Le commerce et la prosperite publique font fleu- 

rir les beaux-arts. 
Les sept oeuvres de Misericorde. 



Le martyre de Ste. Catherine. Esquisse ter- 
miner. 

Des possedes et des malades prennent leur re- 
cours au tombeau d'un saint. Esquisse. 

Portrait de forme ovale. 
La Sainte Vierge et l'enfant Jesus. 
Saint Christophe portant l'Enfant divin sur ses 
epaules. Figures a, mi -corps. 



APPENDIX. 



195 



Artist's Name. 



Horemans, le Vieux, il vivait vers 
la fin du 17 e siecle. 

Jean Peeters 

Biltius 

Guillaume Jacq. Herreyns, ne a 
Anvers le 10 Juin, 1743, mort 
dans la meme ville le 10 Aout, 
1827; Directeuy de cette Aca- 
demic 

Ferdinand de Braekeleer, Artiste 
vivant. 



Mathieu Tgn. Van Bree, ne a. An- 
vers le 22 Fevrier, 1773, mort 
dans la meme ville le 15 Decem- 
bre, 1839, premier Professeur a 
l'Academie depuis 1803 jusqu'en 
8127; Directeur depuis cette epo- 
que jusqu'a son deces. 

Inconnu 

Pennemaekers, le Recollet, le Vieux 
Simon de Vos, mort en 16T6 

Inconnu 



Description. 



L'Abbe de St. Michel et M. le Bourguemestre 
rendent visite au corps du serment de l'es- 
crime. 

Mer calme ; on y voit un vaisseau a, l'ancre, un 

yacht faisant voile et un bateau pecheur. 
Un poulailler. 

Portrait de J. Ghesquiere, de l'Abbaye de Ton- 
gerlo. 



Portrait de Jacq. Buens, de la meme abbaye. 
Les Anversois se defendent contre les Espagnols 

qui veulent piller leur ville, le 4 Novembre, 

1576. 

Ce tableau, acquis par la regence, a ete par elle 

place au Musee. 
Mort de Pierre Paul Rubens, le 30 Mai, 1640. 
II etait age de 62 ans et 11 mois. 
Le Roi Guillaume a fait don de ce tableau au 

Musee. 



Un portrait de religieux. 
Un idem. 

L'Ascension de Notre Seigneur. 

Ex-voto d'une famille en priere devant l'image 
de Sainte Vierge. 

Buste d'Ortelius en m^daillon : on voit au bas 
le globe qui orne les oeuvres de ce celebre geo- 
graphic II provient de son epitaphe a l'Ab- 
baye de St. Michel. 

Monument funeraire romain de la Famille des 
Fabius. Trouve anx environs d'Anvers. 

Statue d'Isis, don de Mr. J. B. De Witte, trouve 
au Reuzen-huys a Anvers. 



197 



II. 



CATALOGUE OE PAINTINGS, MUSEE ROYAL, 
BRUSSELS. 



ECOLES FLAMANDE, HOLLANDAISE, ET ALLEMANDE. 




10 
11 

12 
13 

14 



Artois (Jacques van), ne a Brux- 
elles en 1613, mort en 1665. 



Artois(van), De Crayer et Segers. 
Asselin, ne a Anvers en 1610, mort 

a Amsterdam en 1660; eleve 

d'Isaac Van Ostade. 
Bachuyzen (Louis), ne a. Embde en 

1631, mort a Amsterdam en 1709: 

eleve d'Everdingen. 
Backereel ( Gilles), ne a Anvers en 

1572, mort en ... . 



Beggyn (Abraham), Hollandais, ne 
en 1650, mort a Berlin en 1708. 

Berghem (Nicolas Klaes, dit), ne 
a Harlem en 1624, mort dans la 
raeme ville en 1683. 

Bol (Ferdinand), ne" a, Dordrecht 
en 1611, mort a Amsterdam en 
1681 ; eleve de Rembrandt. 

Bosschaert ( Willebrord), ne a. 
Berg-op-Zoom en 1613, mort a 
Anvers en 1656; eleve de Gerard 
Segers. 

Brauwer(Adrien), ne a, Audenarde 
en 1608, mort a Anvers en 1640; 
eleve de Francois Hals. 



Paysage, scene d'hiver. 

Paysage forestier, pris au declin du jour. 
Paysage boise. 

Conversion de Saint Hubert. 
Paysage d'ltalie. 



Vue marine. 



Adoration des bergers. 
Vision de Saint Felix. 

Saint Antoine de Padoue portant 1'enfant Jesus 

et le Saint Sacrement. 
Marine des environs de Naples. 



Paysage ; site d'ltalie. 



Un vieillard qui etudie, le Coude appuye sur une 
table ou Ton remarque un grand livre, une 
sphere et une tete de mort. 

Des anges annoncent a Abraham la naissance 
d'Isaac. 



Eispute grotesque de joueurs de cartes. 



1 98 APPENDIX. 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 


15 


Breughel (Abraham), ne a Anvers 


Bouquet de fleurs. 




en 1672, mort en 1720. 


16 


Breughel (Jean, dit de Velour, et 
Van Baelen), ne a, Bruxelles en 


L'Abondance et l'Amour repandant leurs dons 




sur la terre. 




1589, mort a Anvers en 1642. Ne 






a Anvers en 1562, mort en 1638. 




17 


Breydel (le Chevalier Charles), ne - 
a Anvers en 1677, mort a Gand en 
1744. 


Choc de cavalerie. 


18 




Idem. 


19 


Champagne (J. B. van), ne a. Brux- 


Assomption de la Vierge. 




elles en 1643, mort en 1688; eleve 




de Philippe Van Champagne. 




20 


Champagne (Philippe van), ne a 
Bruxelles en 1602, mort a Paris 


Portrait de Saint Charles Borrom^e. 








en 1674; eleve de Fouquieres. 




21 




Sainte Genevieve de Brabant. 


22 




Saint Joseph. 


23 


_ 


Saint Etienne. 


24 


_ 


Saint Ambroise. 


25 




Presentation au temple. 


26 




Saint Benoit dans la grotte. 


27 


_ 


Saint Benoit visite par un pretre. 


28 


_ 


Le pain empoisonne. 


29 




Saint Benoit fait jaillir une fontaine par a force 
de sa priere. 


30 




Saint Maur retirant Placide de l'eau. 


31 


- 


La hache perdue qui se rattache a son manche. 


32 




Le demon chasse d'une pierre. 


33 




L'incendie imaginaire. 


34 




L'enfant ressuscite. 


35 


_ 


Sainte Scolastique visitee par Sainte Benoit. 


36 


Cochels (Joseph) 

Coene (C. ), ne a, Vilvorde en 1780, 
mort a Bruxelles en 1841. 


Retour de la chasse au cerf. 


37 


Soldat de la bataille de Waterloo, rentrant dans 




la maison paternelle. 


38 


Coppens, ne a. Bruxelles au 17 e 
siecle. 


Portrait de l'auteur. 


39 


Cossiers (Jean), ne a, Anvers en 


Le deluge universel. 




1603, mort en 1652 ; eleve de 




Corneille Devos. 




40 




La sainte famille. 


41 


Coxie (Michel van), n£ a Malines 
en 1499, mort en 1592; dleve de 
Van Orley. 


Le couronnement d'^pines. 


42 




La cene. Tableau avec volets. L'un des volets 
represente le Christ lavant les piedis des apotres, 
et l'autre le Christ au Jardin des Olives. 


43 


Craesbeke( Joseph van), ne a Brux- 


Tabagie flamande. 




elles en 1608, mort en 1688 ; eleve 




d'Adrien Brauwer. 




44 


Dankers van Ry (Pierre), ne - a 


Portrait du mathematicien Dow, oncle de Ge- 




Amsterdam en 1 605, mort a Stock- 


rard Dow. 




holm en 1659. 





APPENDIX. 



199 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 


45 


Dankers van Ry 


Portrait de la femme de Gerard Dow. 


46 


De Baets (Ange), ne a. Evergem, 


Interieur de l'eglise Saint Bavon, a Gand. 




pres de Gand, en 1793. 


47 


De Bonsletter (A.). 


Paysage ; vue des environs de Rome. 


48 


De Brackeleek (Ferdinand), ne a 
Anvers en 1792. 


Vue inte'rieure de la ville d'Anvers. 


49 


De Caisne (Henri), ne a, Bruxelles 
en 1799. 


Agar dans le desert. 


50 


- 


Sapho. 


51 


De Cauwer, ne a Beveren en ... . 


Plusieurs blesses de la bataille de Waterloo dans 
l'interieur d'une ferme. 


52 


De Klerck (Henri), nea Anvers en 
1570, mort en 1629; eleve de 
Martin Devos. 


Le Seigneur appelant a lui les petits enfans. 


53 


- 


Une sainte famille. 


54 


De Coninck (Jacques), ne a. Harlem 


Vue de Hollande ; paysage. 




en 1650, mort en 1709; eleve 




d'Adrien Vandevelde. 




55 


De Crayer (Gasvard), ne a Anvers 
en 1582, mort en 1669; eleve de 
Raphael Coxie. 


Peche miraculeuse de St. Pierre. 


56 


- 


Assomption de Sainte Catherine. 


57 


- 


Apparition de la Vierge a Saint Bernard. 


58 


- 


Martyre de Saint Blaise. 


59 


- 


Conversion de Saint Julien. 


60 


- 


Le Chevalier Donglebert et sa femme en adora- 
tion devant le Christ mort. 


61 


- 


Saint Paul et Saint Antoine. 


62 


- 


Saint Paul ermite, avant sa conversion. 


63 


- 


Saint Paul apres son martyre. 


64 


- 


Saint Antoine et Saint Paul, ermites. 


65 


- 


Martyre de Sainte Apolline. 


66 


- 


La sainte famille. 


67 


- 


Portrait d'un moine de l'ordre des Augustins. 
(Le fond est un paysage.) 


68 


De Jonghe (J. B.), ne a Courtrai 


Paysage; vue prise aux environs de Tournai. 




en 1785. 


69 


De Landtsheere (Jean), peue, ne 


Venus coupant les ailes a, l'Amour. 




a. Baesrode en 1750, mort a Brux- 




elles en 1828. 




70 


De Landtsheere (J. B. ), fils, ne 


Tancrede blesse et soigne par Herminie. 




a Bruxelles en 1797. 




71 


Delvaux (Ed.), ne a Bruxelles en 
1806. 


Paysage montagneux. Coup de vent. 


72 


Delvaux (Ferdinand), ne" a Brux- 
elles en 1782, mort a Bologne en 


Interieur du cloitre des Chartreux a Rome. 








1815. 




73 




Interieur d'un couvent de femmes a Rome. 


74 


Denis (Simon Joseph Alexandre 


Combat de deux taureaux. EflTet de soleil cou- 




Clement), ne a, Anvers en 1755, 


chant. 




mort a Naples en 1813. 




75 


De Noter (P. F. ), ne a Walhem en 


Vue prise a Bruges. 




1779, mort en 1842. 



200 



APPENDIX. 



No. 


Artist s Name. 


Description. 


76 


De Noter 


Hiver ; vue prise du Pont Neuf a Gand. 


77 


- 


L'£glise de Saint Nicolas, a Gand, vue du March£- 






aux- Grains. 


79 


De Roi (J. B.), n6 a Bruxelles en 


Un nombreux convoi de bestiaux destinds a 




1759, mort en 1839. 


l'armee. 


80 


- 


Paysage avcc bestiaux. EfFet de brouillard. 


81 


Devadder (Louis), ne a Bruxelles 


Pay sage boise. 




en 1560, mort en 1623. 




82 


Devigne (Felix), n£ a Gand en 


Les amours d'Abrocome et de la belle Anthia. 




1806. 




83 


Devos (Martin), ne a Anvers en 


Portrait. 




1524, mort en 1604; eleve de 






Pierre Devos, son pere, et de Franck 






Floris. 




84 


Devries (Ferdinand), ne a. Leeu- 


Chasse au cerf dans un chemin creux et boise. 




waerden en 1527, mort en 1588. 




85 


De Wit (Emmanuel), n£ a, Alcmaer, 


Interieur de l'eglise de Delft. 




en 1607, mort en 1692; eleve 






d'Evrard Van Alst. 




86 


Dietricy (Guillaume Ernest), n£ 


Portrait de ce Peintre. 




a Weimar en 1712, mort a Dresde 






en 1774. 




87 


Dow (Gerard), ne a, Leyde en 113, 


Gerard Dow dessinant a. la faible lueur d'une 




mort en 1680; eleve de Rem- 


lampe d'apres un Amour de Duquesnoy. 




brandt. 




88 


Ducq (Joseph Francois), ne a Le- 


Venus sortant des eaux. 




deghem en 1762, mort a Bruges 






en 1829. 




89 


Du Corron (J.), ne a, Ath en 1770. 


Vue prise aux environs d'Irchonwelz, pres de 




Chievres, province de Hainaut. 


89* 




Paysage ; clair de lune. 


90 


Faber (F.), ne a Bruxelles en 1782, 


Repos d'un ouvrier. 




mort en 1844. 




91 


Fabrique ( Nicolas la), ne a Namur 


Un jeune homme examine avec attention une 




vers la fin du 17 e siecle, mort en 


piece d'or qu'il tient dans le creux de sa main. 




1736. 


92 


Floris (Franck), de Vriendt 


Le Jugement dernier. 




(Francois, dit), ne a, Anvers en 






1520, mort en 1570; eleve de 






Lambert Lombard. 




93 


- 


Altercation entre deux jeunes epoux. 


94 


- 


L'enfant Jesus, couche" dans son berceau, tend les 






bras a la Sainte Vierge a genoux qui va l'em- 






brasser. Saint Joseph contemple cette scene 






d'amour avec respect. 


95 


Franck (Jean Baptiste), ne a. An- 


Decollation de Saint Jean. 




vers en 1600, mort en 1653 ; eleve 






de son pere, Sebastien Franck. 




96 


Fra n^ois (P. J. C. ) pere, ne a 


Marius assis sur les ruines de Carthage. 




Namur en 1759. 




97 


Geernaerts 


Le Seigneur et ses disciples a Emaiis ; grisaille. 


98 




Le Seigneur chez Simon le Pharisien ; grisaille. 



APPENDIX. 



201 



No. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



99 

100 
101 
102 
103 
104 

105 

106 

107 

108 

109 
110 

111 

112 
113 

114 

115 

116 
117 
118 

119 

120 
121 
122 

123 

124 

125 



Geernaerts 



Golzius (Hubert), ne a, Venloo en 
1520, mort a Bruges en 1583. 

Heem (David de), ne a Utrecht en 
1570, mort en 1632. 

Hellemans (P. J.), ne a Bruxelles 
en 1787. 



Hemskerke( Egbert, dit le Paysan), 
ne a Harlem en 1610, mort en 
1680. 

Herregouts, ne a Malines en 1666, 

mort a Anvers en 1724. 
Holbein (Jean), ne a Bale en 1498, 

mort a Londres en 1554; eleve de 

son pere, Jean Holbein. 
Huysman (Corneille, dit de Ma- 

lines), ne a Anvers en 1648, mort 

en 1727 ; eleve de Jacques Artois. 
Janssens (Abraham), ne a, Anvers 

en 1569, mort en 1631. 
Janssens (Victor Honoke), ne a 

Bruxelles en 1664, mort en 1739. 



Jolly (A. E. ), ne a Bruxelles. 

J ordaens (Jacques), ne a Anvers en 

1 594, mort en 1678; eleve d' Adam 

Van Oort et de Rubens. 



Klomp (Albert), Hollandais, vivait 
en 1636. 



Koeberger (Wenceslas), ne a An- 
vers en 1560, mort en 1630; eleve 
de Martin Devos 

Kuyp (Benjamin), ne a Dordrecht 
en 1608, mort vers la fin du 17 e 
siecle. 



Les fils d' Aaron punis par le feu du ciel ; gri- 
saille. 

La femme adultere ; grisaille. 
Abraham et Melchisedech ; grisaille. 
Le sacrifice d' Abraham; grisaille. 
Le sacrifice d'Elie ; grisaille. 
Portrait de femme. 

Bouquet de fleurs. 

Vue prise sur la lisiere du bois de Soignes, chaus- 

see de Namur. 
Paysage; vue d'un moulin a eau; figures et 

betail. 

Interieur d'un cabaret flamand. 



Saint Jerome dans le desert. 
Portrait de Thomas Morus. 

Paysage. 



La Foi et l'Esperance soutiennent la Vieillesse 
contre les fatigues du temps. 

Des anges presentent le cordon de l'ordre des 
Chartreux a Saint Bruno, pendant une appari- 
tion de la Vierge. 

Saint Charles Borromee priant pour les pesti- 
feres. 

Didon, accompagnee de sa sceur, faisant batir 

Carthage. 
Sacrifice d'Enee arrivant a Carthage. 
Zampiero et Vanina. 
Saint Martin guerissant un possede. 



Tableau allegorique des dons et des occupations 

de l'Automne. 
Le triomphe du Prince Frederic Henri de Nassau. 
Tete d'apotre priant Dieu. (Esquisse.) 
Scene rurale, entree de ferme. 

Apparition des anges aux bergers devant leurs 

tentes, pour annoncer la naissance du Messie. 
Le Christ porte au tombeau. 



L' Adoration des mages. 



202 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Kuyp (Jacob Gerritz), r.e a Dor- 
drecht en 1578, mort en 1642; 
eleve d' Abraham Bloemaert 

Lairesse (Gerard de), ne a Li£ge 
en 1640, mort a Amsterdam en 
1711; eleve de son pere, Renier 
de Lairesse. 

Lens (Andre), ne a, Anvers en 1739, 
mort a, Bruxelles en 1822; eleve 
de Pierre Eyckens le Vieux et de 
Balthazar Besschey. 

Lens (Jacques), n£ a Anvers vers 
1 746, mort en 

Lingelbach ( Jean), ne a Frankfort- 
sui'-le-Mein en 1625, mort a Am- 
sterdam en 1687. 

Looten (Jean), ne a Amsterdam en 
. . . ., mort en 1681. 

Lucas Franchoys (le Vieux), dit 
Francois, ne a Malines en 1574, 
mort en 1643. 

Mathieu (Louis), ne a Champion 
(Luxembourg) en 1805. 

Meert (Pierre), ne a Bruxelles en 
1618, mort en 1669. 

Mile (Francois), ne a Anvers en 
1643, mort a Paris en 1680; eleve 
de Laurent Francken. 

Molenaer, n£ a Anvers en 1540, 
mort en 1589. 

Idem. 

Mommers (Henri), ne a Harlem en 
1623, mort en 1697. 

Moreelse (Paul), ne a. Utrecht en 
1571, mort en 1638; eleve de 
Michel Mirevelt. 

Moucheron (Isaac Van), ne a Am- 
sterdam en 1670, mort en 1744. 



Nason (Pierre), Hollandais, vivait 
en 1639. 

Navez (F. J.), ne a Charleroi en 
1787. 

Neefs (Pierre), ne a, Anvers en 

1570, mort en 1639. 
Noel, ne a Waulsort-sur-Meuse en 

1789, mort en 1822. 
Odevaere (Joseph Denis), ne a. 

Bruges en 1778, mort en 1830; 

eleve de Suvee et de David. 



Pay sage. 

La mort de Pyrrhus. 

Dalila coupant les cheveux a Samson. 

Portrait de l'empereur Leopold 
Vue de la Place du Peuple a. Rome. 

Paysage boise. 

Portrait de Phiderpe, sculpteur flamand 



Marie de Bourgogne tombant de cheval a la 
chasse. 

Portrait des anciens magistrats de Bruxelles en 
1600. 

Repos de la Sainte Famille pendant la fuite en 
Egypte. 

Tabagie flamande. 



Un marche aux herbes. 

Portrait d'un homme tenant une pomme dans la 
main droite. 

Paysage Arcadien. 

Paysage garni de haute futaie et entrecoupe de 
montagnes. 

Portrait du Prince d'Orange, gouverneur du 
Bresil. 

Portrait d'Engelspach-Lariviere. 

Agar dans le desert. 

Interieur de la Cathedrale d' Anvers. 

Station de cavalerie. 

Victoire navale de Canaris sur les Ottomans. 



Les Atheniens s'embarquant pour Salamines. 



APPENDIX. 



203 



Artist's Name. 



Ommegang (B. Paul), ne a Anvers 

en 1755, mort en 1826. 
Paelinck (Madame), nee Horg- 

nies. 

Palamede Stevens (Antoine), n6 
a Delft en 1607, mort en 1638. 

Pourbus, n6 a Bruges en 1540, mort 
en 1580; el eve de Franck Flore. 

Quillin (Ekasme), le vieux, ne a 
Anvers en 1607, mort en 1678; 
eleve de Rubens. 



Rembrandt (Paul), dit Van Ryn, 
ne pres de Leyde en 1606, mort a 
Amsterdam en 1674; eleve de 
Zwanenburg. 

Reykaert (David), le Jeune, ne a 
Anvers en 1615, mort en 1677; 
eleve de son pere. 

Ricquier (L.), ne a Anvers en 1795 

Robbe (Louis), ne a Courtrai en 
1807. 

Roos (Jean Henri), dit Rosa de 
Tivoli, ne a Otterberg, dans le 
Palatinat, en 1631, mort en 1685, 
eleve de Julien Dujardin. 

Rubens (Pierre Paul), ne a Co- 
logne en 1577, mort a Anvers en 
1640; eUeve d'Adam Van Oort et 
d'Otto Venius. 



Description. 



Paysage des Ardennes. 
Sujet tire de Lamartine. 
Portrait d'homme 
Portrait d'homme. 

Charles Borromee, archeveque de Milan. 



Un statue en grisaille, representant le Sauveur 
sur un fond d'architecture, entoure de fleurs 
peintes par Segers pere. 

Portrait d'homme. 



Chimiste dans son laboratoire. 



Une famille de brigands. 

Animaux au paturage, vue prise aux environs de 

Courtrai. 
Pasteur assis. 



Le Seigneur voulant foudroyer le monde. 

La Vierge, a ses cotes, decouvre son sein ma- 
ternel, et veut arreter le bras de son fils ; les 
anges constern£s suivent le Seigneur. Saint 
Fran9ois se precipite, avec la paleur de l'efFroi, 
sur un globe qui figure la terre, le couvre de 
son corps et de ses mains : un enorme serpent, 
symbole des vices, entoure ce globe, derriere 
lequel il cherche a, se cacher. On apercoit 
dans le lointain l'image des crimes qui ont pro- 
voque la vengeance celeste. 

Le Martyre de Saint Lievin. 

Sans entrer dans les details d'un afireux et degou- 
tant supplice, la pensee se porte avec plaisir 
vers ces esprits celestes qui, armes de la foudre, 
s'elancent du fond de nuage sur une troupe de 
bourreaux et de feroces soldats. Saisis de ter- 
reur, ceux-ci se precipitent les uns sur les 
autres ; les chevaux se cabrent et ajoutent au 
desordre. Tout est action autour de Saint 
Lievin, qui parait oublier ses souffrances a 
l'apparition de deux anges qui descendent vers 
lui avec la palme et la couronne du mar- 
tyre. 

Le Couronnement de la Vierge. 



204 



APPENDIX. 



No. 



Artist's Name. 



163 



Rubens - 



164 



165 



166 



Description. 



La Vierge agenouillee sur un croissant, s'eleve 
au-dessus des nuages ; le Pere Eternel et son 
Fils l'attendent, et vont poser sur son front mo- 
deste la couronne immortelle. Un groupe 
d'anges parait au-dessus dunnage qui soutient 
la Vierge. 

Station du Christ, montant au Calvaire, secouru 
par Marie Madeleine. 

Jesus Christ marche vers le lieu du supplice, en- 
tonre de ses bourreaux et precede" d'un bruy- 
ant cortege; il est tombe de douleur et de 
fatigue sous le poids d'une enorme croix ; son 
divin visage, meurtri, ensanglante, regarde le 
spectateur ; il excite la pitied touche Tame du 
pecheur. Sa mere et les saintes femmes qui 
suivent sont navrees de douleur. 

Le Christ au Tombeau. 

La mere de Jesus, accompagnee des saintes 
femmes, avait eu la Constance de rester au Cal- 
vaire pendant ces terribles instants. Saint 
Jean est le seul disciple qui soit reste" aupres 
d'elle ; le corps du Sauveur est couche sur un 
peu de paille ; on a decouvert le linceul ; sa 
mere en arriere le soutient ; le sang a cesse de 
couler de ses plaies ; ses membres sont decolo- 
res ; la douceur des traits de son visage n'a pas 
£te alteree par son supplice. Les femmes, 
Saint Jean, et Saint Francois expriment leur 
tristesse ; deux anges se trouvent sur le devant : 
la Madeleine baissee vers la terre, tient les 
clous ensanglantes qu'elle arrose de ses larmes. 

L'adoration des mages. 

Trois mages sont venus de l'Orient pour adorer 
l'enfant Jesus ; la Vierge le soutient debout 
sur le haut d'une creche : l'un des trois mages, 
richement vetu, lui presente un vase rempli 
d'or ; les deux autres debout, saisis d'un saint 
respect, tiennent les mains croisees sur leur 
poitrine ; le mage noir, le coeur penetre de 
joie, regarde en souriant le divin enfant; Saint 
Joseph se tient derriere la Vierge; unnegre et 
un blanc portent chacun un candelabre; vers 
le haut d'un escalier, un guerrier couvert d'une 
cuirasse oppose son bouclier a la foule qui, du 
haut d'un galerie, cherche a penetrer dans l'in- 
terieur de I'etable. Le lieu represente une 
place souterraine. 

L'Assomption de la Vierge. 

La Sainte Vierge quitte la terre sur un nuage qui 
s'eleve glorieusement vers le ciel. Les esprits 
celestes, entour^s d'une lumiere eclatante, l'ac- 
compagnent et le conduisent vers l'£ternel se- 
jour. Les saintes femmes, ses compagnes, ne 



APPENDIX. 



205 



No. 



167 
.168 
169 



170 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Rubens - 

Ruysdael (Jacques), ne a. Harlem 
en 1640, mort a Amsterdam en 
1681. 

Sallaert (Antoine), ne a Brux- 
elles en 1570, mort en 1632. 



171 

172 



173 



174 



175 



Scaron (Alexandre), ne a Brux- 
elles. 



trouvent plus dans sa tombe que quelques fleurs. 

Les apotres, frappes d'admiration et interdits, 

suivent la Vierge des yeux. 
Portrait demi-corps de l'Archiduc Albert. 
Portrait demi-corps de l'lnfante Isabelle. 
Paysage, avec une piece d'eau entouree d'une fo- 

ret. 

Procession des corps de metiers de Bruxelles, 
sur la Grande Place, en 1620. 

Les differens corps de metiers, avec leurs en- 
seignes, y marchent en file. On y trouve in- 
dique le nombre de maitres dont se composait 
chaque metier a cette epoque. La vue repre- 
sente une partie de la Grande Place ; Ton re- 
marque des maisons baties en bois. 

Suite de cette procession. 

Solennite du tir a l'arbalete. 

Ce tableau rappelle le souvenir du jour ou, en 
1615, l'lnfante Isabelle, souveraine des Pays- 
Bas, abattit d'un coup d'arbalcte 1'oiseau eleve 
a la bauteur de la Heche de l'eglise du Sablon. 
L'lnfante, et son epoux, l'Archiduc Albert, s'y 
trouvent places sur une estrade, l'arbalete a, la 
main ; le doyen, k la tete du grand serment, 
leur presente son hommage. Toute la cour as- 
siste a cette fete ; un peuple immense horde le 
chemin par lequel les corps de serments avancent 
precedes de leur musiques. 

Procession de l"Ommegang, a Bruxelles. 

Ce tableau fait suite au precedent. L'Infant Isa- 
belle ayant' re9u du magistrat de Bruxelles, 
comme reine du grand serment, un don de 
25,000 florins, employa cette somme a une fon- 
dation au Sablon, en faveur de douze jeunes 
filles, a chacune desquelles etait destinee une 
dot, dont la collation se renouvelait tous les 
ans. La procession representee dans ce ta- 
bleau a ete institute en memoire de cet evene- 
ment ; les douze jeunes pucelles, uniforme- 
ment vetues en blanc, et tenant un cierge a la 
main, precedent le cleige de cette eglise, l'ar- 
chiduc, l'archiduchesse, les siegneurs et les 
dames de la cour. 

Allegorie de la Passion du Christ. 

Deux anges soutiennent sur une draperie l'enfant 
Jesus debout, portant sa croix et montrant de 
la main droite une gloire celeste dont les 
rayons representent, dans les interstices, les 
principaux episodes de la vie et de la passion du 
Seigneur. 

Vase de Fleurs. 



206 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



194 
195 
196 



197 



Schaepkens (Theodore), ne a Mae- 
stricht en 1810. 

ScHALKEN (GoDEFROl), ne SL Dor- 

drecht en 1645, mort en 1706; 
eleve de Samuel Van Hoogstraten 
et de G. Dow. 
Schouwaerts, de Bruxelles 

Schut (Corneille), ne a, Anvers en 
1590, mort en 1676 ; eleve de Ru- 
bens. 

Schut (Corneille) et Segers, Pere 

Schwarts (Christophe), ne a. Mu- 
nich en 1550, mort en 1594. 

Segers (Daniel), Pere, ne a An- 
vers en 1590, mort en 1661. 

Siebrechs (Jean), ne a Anvers en 
1625, mort en 1686. 

Smeyers (Gilles), ne a Malines en 
1635, mort en 1710. 

Sneyders (Francois), ne a Anvers 
en 1579, mort dans la meme ville 
en 1657 ; eleve de Henri Van 
Baelen 

Soolmaker (J. F. ), ne vers le 17 e 
siecle. 



Stomme (M. B.), ne 
siecle 



vers le 16 e 



Description. 



Stoop (Thierry), ne 
florissait en 1651. 



a Dordrecht, 



Teniers (David), le Jeune, ne a. 
Anvers en 1610, mort a Bruxelles 
en 1694 ; eleve de son pere et d'A- 
drien Brauwer. 

Thys (Pierke), ne a Anvers en 
1625, mort en 1682. 



Tilborgh (Gilles Van), ne a, Brux- 
elles en 1625, mort en 1678. 



Van'Asloot ( Dionel), ne a Brux- 
elles en 1570, mort en 1620. 



La prise de Maestricht en 1579. 

Un jeune homme, vetu de vert et coiffe d'une 
toque noire, tient un flambeau et s'amuse a. 
faire tomber de la cire fondue sur un plateau. 

Marche aux poissons. 
Le boeuf gras. 

Esquisse du tableau du martyre de Saint 
Jacques. 

Portrait de la Sainte Vierge entour£e de guir- 
landes de fleurs supportees par des anges. 

Vulcain montrant a l'assemblee des dieux Mars 
et Venus, qu'il a surpris ensemble. 

Bouquet. 

Scene matinale de travaux rustiques. 
Saint Norbert consacrant deux diacres. 
La mort de Saint Norbert. 

Sur une longue table sont etales un cygne, un 
chevreuil, un paon, un homard, quelques pieces 
de gibier, des fruits, et des legumes de diffe- 
rentes especes. 
Reconciliation de Jacob et d' Esau- 
Fontaine entoure'e de troupeaux, au milieu d'un 

pay sage dTtalie. 
Sur une table couverte d'une nappe, sont repre- 
sented un verre, une cruche renversee, un plat 
sur lequel est un poisson grille, un couteau, et 
quelques autres objets. 
Vue d'un paysage d'ltalle. 

Halte de postilion. 

Le devant d'une maison rustique. 



Le martyre de Saint Guillaume. 

Portrait d'une femme vetue de noir, la main 
gauche appuyee sur le dossie d'une chaise. 

Les Princes de Ligne, de Chimay, de Rubem- 
pre, de la Tour-Taxis, et le Due d'Arenberg, 
tousa cheval, et en grand costume de chevalier 
de la toison d'or, sortent du palais des Dues 
de Brabant. (L'ancienne cour brulee en 
1731.) 

Representation lopographique des ci-devant pare 
et chateau de Mariemont. 



APPENDIX. 



207 



Artist's Name. 



Van Assche (Henri), ne a. Brux- 
elles en 1775, mort en 1 841. 



Van Bree (Mathieu), ne a. Anvers 

en 1773, mort en 1839. 
Van Bree (Philippe), ne a Anvers 

en 1786. 

Vandenheuvel (Antoine), ne a 
Gand, au commencement du 17 e 
siecle, mort en 1677; eleve de 



Gaspard de Crayer. 



Vanderavond (Pierre), ne a An- 
vers vers 1619, mort en ... . 
Vander Helst, ne a. Harlem en 
1613, mort a Amsterdam en 1671. 

Vandermuelen, ne a Bruxelles en 

1634, mort a Paris en 1690; 

eleve de Pierre Snayers. 
Vanderplas (Pierre), ne a Harlem 

en 1570, mort a Bruxelles en 1626. 
Vander Poorten (Henri), ne a 

Anvers en 1789. 
Vandervinne (Vinc. Laur. ), dit Le 

Napolitain, nea Harlem en 1629, 

mort en 1702. 
Vandiepenbeck (Abraham), ne a 

Bois-le-Duc en 1607, mort en 

1675 ; eleve de Rubens. 
Van Dvck (Antoine), ne a. Anvers 

en 1599, mort a Londres en 1641 ; 

eleve de Henri Van Baelen et de 

Rubens. 



Van Dyck (Philippe), ne a Amster- 
dam en 1680, mort en 1752. 

Van Everdingen (Cesar), ne a. 
Alcmaer en 1606, mort en 1679. 

Van Heil (Daniel), ne a Bruxelles 
en 1604, mort en 1662. 



Description. 



Cascade formee par la Toccia, dans la vallee du 
meme nom, canton du Tessin (Suisse Ita- 
lienne). 

Paysage. 

Portrait en pied de Guillaume Premier, roi des 
Pays Bas. 

Interieur de l'eglise Saint Pierre a. Rome, le 

jour de la Fete-Dieu. 
Sixte- Quint, lorsqu'il etait encore patre. 
Le martyre de Sainte Amelie. 
La sainte, percee d'une lance qui s'est brisee dans 

la plaie, est representee etendue mort a terre ; 

le soldat, qui l'a tuee, montre d'un geste mena- 

cant sa jeune victime a une femrne tenant une 

petite fille a la main, et qui recule d'efFroi. 

Derriere, se trouvent deux pretres paiens. Un 

ange descend vers la sainte. 
Assomption de la Vierge. 

Portrait de l'Auteur. 

Portrait de la femme de Vander Heist. 
Siege de Tournai par Louis XIV. 



La Sainte Vierge et l'Enfant Jesus, entoures des 

donateurs de qui provient ce tableau. 
Paysage orne de figures et de betail. 

L'ange apparait a, Saint Pierre, et le delivre de 
la prison. 

Saint Francois adorant le saint Sacrement. 



Le Christ en croix. 



Saint Antoine de Padoue tenant l'Enfant Jesus. 
Saint Francois en extase devant le crucifix. 
Le martyre de Saint Pierre. 

Esquisse heurtee de la tete du juif presentant le 
roseau dans le tableau du couronnement d'e- 
pines de ce maitre. 

Vieux Silene, ivre, soutenu par un berger et une 
bacchante. 

Portrait d'une dame, vetue du bleu. 

Jeune femme se coiftant devant une glace. 
Incendie a Anvers. 



208 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Van Heil 



Van Herp (N.) 

Van Hugtenburgh (Jean), ne a 
Harlem en 1646, mort a Amster- 
dam en 17S3. 

Van Loon (Theodore), ne a, Brux- 
elles en 1629, mort dans la meme 
ville en 1678. 



Van Nikkele (Isaac), ne vers le 

16 e siecle. 
Van Nieuwlandt (Adkien), mort 
en 1601. 

Van Ravenstein (Jean), ne a la 
Hayeeri 1580, mort en 1649. 

Van Son (Jean), ne a, Anvers en 
1661, mort a Londres en 1723 ; 
eleve de son pere. 

Van Thulden (Theodore), ne a 
Bois-le-Duc en 1607, mort en 
1686; eleve de P. P. Rubens. 

Venius (Gertrude), fille d'Otto Ve- 
nius. 

Venius (Otto), ne a, Leyde en 1556, 
mort a Brnxelles en 1636 ; eleve 
d'Isaac Swanenburg, maitre de 
Rubens. 



Verboeckhoven (Eugene), ne a 

Warneton, en 1799. 
Verboom (Adrien), ne a Harlem, 

vivait en 1690. 
Verhaegen (Pierre-Joseph), ne" a, 

Aerschot en 1728, mort en 1811. 
Vervloet (F.), de Malines 



Hiver, scene de patineurs. 

Incendie en 1731 de l'ancienne cour du Pa- 
lais Royal, qui occupait autrefois le terrain 
ou se trouvent maintenant les deux grands 
pavilions de la Place- Royale du cote du Pare. 

Incendie d'une maison situee Grand Place, a 
cote de la rue de la Tete d'Or, ou a ete batie 
depuis la maison dite des Merciers. 

Vue des batiments de lavieille cour a Bruxelles, 
du cote de I'Orangerie. 

Vue de Bruxelles dans son ancienne enceinte, 
prise sur les hauteurs de la porte de Flandre. 

Saint Nicolas Tolentin. 

Choc de cavalerie. 



Adoration des bergers. 



Assomption de la Vierge. 
Adoration des bergers. 

Vue interieure de la grande eglise de Harlem. 

Le carnaval sous Tun des bastions de la ville 
d' Anvers. 

Portrait de Kinna Van Hasselaer, heroine qui 
defendit Harlem contre les Espagnols, en 
1572. 

Fruits. 



Orgies pendant une kermesse de village. 



Le Christ a. la colonne. 

Portrait du peintre Otto Venius. 



Le portement de la croix. 



Le Christ au Calvaire. 
Le Sainte Famille. 

Le Christ descendu de la croix entre les saintes 
femmes et Saint Jean (copie d'apres Raphael). 
Un troupeau de moutons battu par une averse. 

Le depart pour la chasse. 

L'adoration des mages. 

Le cloitre de Sainte Marie-la-Neuve, a Naples. 
(Moines Franciscains.) 



APPENDIX. 



209 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 


246 


VlEILLEVOVE ( PiEURE-JoSEPH-Ce- 

lestin), ne a Verviers en 1798. 


Tete d'etude de vieillard. 


247 


Voor decker (Henri), ne a Brux- 
elles en 1779. 


Vue du village et de la chapelle de Waterloo. 


248 


Weenincx (Jean-Baptiste), ne a 
Amsterdam en 1621, mort en 1660. 


Portrait d'une dame assise devant un miroir. 


249 


Wouvermans (Pierre), ne a Har- 
lem en 1626, mort en 1683; eleve 


Manege au pied d'un rempart. 




de son frere Philippe. 




250 


Wvnandts (Jean), ne a Harlem en 
1600, mort en 1662. 


Paysage. 


251 




Paysage. 


252 




Paysage sablonneux. 



ECOLES ITALIENNE ET ESPAGNOLE. 



Albane (Francesco Alrani), ne a 
Bologne en 1578, mort en 1660; 
eleve des Carrache. (Ecole Bolo- 
naise.) 

Barrochio d'Urbin (Feperigo Ba- 
rocci ou Fiori), ne a Urbin en 
1528, mort en 1612. (Ecole Ro- 
maine. ) 

Bassan (Leandro), ne en 1558, 
mort en 1623. (Ecole Venitienne. ) 

Bassan (Bassano-Jacopo da Ponte, 
dit le), ne en 1510, mort en 1592; 
eleve de Francesco da Ponte son 
pere. (Ecole Venitienne.) 

Calabrese (Mattia Preti, dit le), 
ne a Taverna dans le royaume de 
Naples, en 1613, mort a Malte en 
1699; eleve de Guerchin. (Ecole 
Napolitaine. ) 

Canaletto (Antonio Canal, dit), 
ne a Venise en 1597, mort en 1668 ; 
eleve de Bernardo Canal son pere. 
(Ecole Venitienne.) 

Castiglione (Giovanni- Benedetto), 
ne a Genes en 1616, mort a Man- 
toue en 1670. (Ecole Genoise. ) 

Cigoli (Lodovico Cardi da), ne en 
1559, mort en 1613; eleve de 
Sandi di Tito. (Ecole Florentine.) 



Adam, assis et s'appuyant sur la main droite, re- 
coit la pomme qu'Eve lui presente. 



Le Christ appelant a. lui Saint Pierre et Saint 
Simon. 



Ascension du Christ. 

Le Christ au tombeau. (Copie.) 



Les costumes bizarres et les physionomies des 
personnages n'ont pas permis de reconnaitre le 
sujet de ce tableau. 



Job visite par ses amis. 
Vue de la Brenta. 



Interieur de l'eglise Saint- Mare, a Venise. 
Portrait de vieillard. 



La Vierge sou tenant l'enfant Jesus derriere le- 
quel se trouve le jeune Saint Jean. 



210 



APPENDIX. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Ferrari (Gaudenzio), ne en 1484 a, 
Valdugia, vallee de la Sesia, mort 
en 1550. (Ecole Milanaise. ) 

Giorgion (Giorgio Barbarelli, dit 
le), ne a Castel- Franco en 1477, 
mort en 1511 ; eleve de Jean Bel- 
lin. (Ecole Venitienne.) 

Giotto, ne a Florence en 1276, mort 
en 1336. (Ecole Florentine.) 

Guerchin (Gio- Francesco- Barbi- 
eri, dit le), ne a Cento en 1590, 
mort en 1666 ; eleve de Cremonini 
et de Benedetto. (Ecole Bolonaise.) 

Guide ( Reni Guido, dit le), ne a 
Bologne en 1575, mort en 1642. 
11 passa de l'ecole de Denis Cal- 
vart dans celle des Carrache. (Ecole 
Bolonaise.) 

Makatte (Carlo Maratta ou Ma- 
ratti), ne a Camanero di Ancona 
en 1625, mort en 1713 ; eleve 
d' Andrea Sacchi. (Ecole Ro- 
maine. ) 

Palme le Vieux (Jacopo Palma). 
ne a Serinalta en 1540, mort en 
1588 ; eleve de Titien. (Ecole Ve- 
nitienne.) 

Pan ini (Jean- Paul), ne a. Plaisance 
en 1678, mort en 1740. (Ecole 
Romaine. ) 

Perugin (Pietro Vannucci, dit 
le), ne a, Castel della Pieve di Pe- 
rugia en 1446, mort en 1524. 
(Ecole Romaine.) 

Procaccini (Giulio-Cesare), n£ a 
Bologne vers 1548, mort vers 
1626. (Ecoles bolonaise et mila- 
naise. ) 

Sagoro (Ecole Lombarde.) 

Sasso Ferrato (Gio-Batista Sal- 

vida), ne en 1605, mort en 1685. 
(Ecole Romaine.) 
Tintoret (Jacopo Robusti, dit le), 

ne a Venise en 1512, mort en 1594. 

( Ecole Venitienne. ) 
Titien (Tiziano Vicellio), ne a 

Cadore en 1477, mort en 1576. 

(Ecole Venitienne.) 



La Sainte- Vierge. 
Portrait de jeune homme. 

Le Calvaire. 
Un ex-voto. 

La fuite en Egypte. 



Sibylle inspiree par un genie. 
Apollon et Daphne. 



Saint Francois adorant l'enfant Jesus. 
Le Christ au tombeau. 



Ruines et monuments de Rome. 
Madone. 



Saint Sebastien protege par des anges qui de- 
tournent les fleches de son martyre. 



Le Christ mort pres de la Sainte Vierge et des 

Saints Personnages. 
Tete de Madone, les yeux baisses, couverte dun 

voile. 

Le martyre de Saint Marc. (Esquisse.) 



Portrait de jeune homme vetu d'une robe de soie 
noire. 

Portrait de vieillard, costume en robe bordee 
d'une fourrure. 



APPENDIX. 



211 



No. 


Artist's Name. 


Description. 


280 


Titien (attribue a) 


Le Christ chez Simon le Pharisien. 


281 


Velasquez (Don Diego- Rodriguez 


Portraits de deux enfants. 




de Silvay), ne a Seville en 1599, 






mort en 1660. (Ecole Espagnole. ) 




282 


Veronese (Paul, Paolo Caliari), 


La Richesse repandant ses dons sur la ville de 




ne a Verone vers 1530, mort en 


Venise. 




1588. (Ecole Venitienne. ) 




283 




Adoration des Bergers. 


284 




Adoration de l'enfant Jesus par Sainte Cathe- 


285 




rine. 

Les Noces de Cana. 



ECOLE FRANCAISE. 



Clouet ( Francois), dit Janet, vivait 
en 1547. 

Courtin (Jacques- Francois) 

Courtois (Jacques, dit le Bour- 
guignon), ne a Saint-Hippoly te, 
en Franche-Comte, en 1621, mort 
a. Rome en 1 676 ; eleve de Jerome, 
peintre Lorrain. 

Gysels, ne a Paris en 1610, mort en 
1673. 

Le Poittevin (Eugene), ne a Paris 
en 1808. 

Le Sueur (Eustache), ne a Paris 
en 1617, mort en 1655; eleve de 
Simon Vouet. 

Mignard (Nicolas), ne a Troyes en 
1608, mort a Paris en 1668. 

Mignard (Pierre), surnomme le 
Romain, ne a Troyes, en Cham- 
pagne, en 1610, mort a Paris en 
1695 ; eleve de Vouet. 

Natier, ne a Paris en 1642, mort en 
1705. 

Tanneur, de Paris 

Van Loo (Carle), ne a Nice en 
Provence en 1705, mort a Paris en 
1765. 

Vautier (Alexandre) 
Vouet (Simon), ne a Paris en 1582, 
mort dans la meme ville en 1641. 



Portrait d' Elizabeth, reine d'Angleterre. 

Le Christ mort, sur les genoux de la Vierge. 
Choc de cavalerie. 



Un Cygne mort entourc de gibier. 
Naufrage sur la cote d'Afrique. 
Le Sauveur donnant sa benediction. 

Portrait d'Henriette d'Angleterre. 

Portrait de femme, sous la figure de Diane 
couchee. 

Marie- Therese, imperatrice d'Autriche. 

Vue de mer a. la maree montante. 
Diane et Endymion. 



Portrait d'un gentilhomme du 17 e siecle. 
Saint Charles-Borromee, priant pour les pesti- 
ieres de Milan. 



212 



APPENDIX. 



AUTEUKS IN CONN US. 



No. Description. 

299 Deposition du Christ au tombeau. 

300 Le Seigneur entre deux Juifs, tenant le roseau. 

301 La Resurrection. 

302 Le Calvaire. 

303 Des anges detachent les fleches du corps de Saint Sebastien. (Ecole Ita- 

lienne-Lombarde.) 

304 Saint Pierre. 

305 Sainte Famille. 

306 Saint Francois devant une tete de mort tient un crucifix de la main droite. 

307 Le Christ porte au tombeau. 

308 Une Sainte Famille. (Ecole Lombarde.) 

309 Madone. 

310 Le sommeil de J£sus. 

311 Sainte Famille. 

312 Marthe et Marie. 

313 Sainte Anne. 

314 Facade lateVale de l'eglise des SS. Michel et Gudule a, Bruxelles, dans son 

£tat primitif. 

315 Premiere assemblee du parlement de Malines en 1473, pr^sidee par le due 

Charles de Bourgogne. 

316 Portrait de Charles le Temeraire, due de Bourgogne. 

3 1 7 Portrait de Francois I. 

318 Portrait de Timperatrice Marie- Th£rese. 

319 Portrait en pied de l'archiduc Albert. 

320 Portrait en pied de Finfante Isabelle, epouse de l'archiduc Albert, gouver- 

nante des Pays-Bas. 

321 Portrait de Loquenghien, amman de Bruxelles, en l'an 1575. 

322 Portrait de S. A. R. le prince Charles- Alexandre, due de Lorraine et de 

Bar, gouverneur des Pays-Bas. 

323 Portrait de Madame du Defiant. 

324 Portrait de dame en costume du commencement du I7 e siecle. 

325 Portrait d'un general commandant. 

326 Portrait d'homme vu jusqu'aux genoux. 

327 Portrait d'homme. 

328 Portrait de l'empereur Joseph II. 



APPENDIX. 



213 



No. 




Description. 



TABLEAUX A R C I E N S. 



Les tableaux designes ici sous la denomination d'anciens sont ceux qui ont ete produits avant 
l'epoque ou les freres Van Eyck inventerent, en 1410, la maniere de peindre a l'huile, jusqu'a 
Otto Venius, maitre de Rubens. 



De Mabuse (Jean), ne a Maubeuge 
en 1499, mort en 1562. 

Grimner (Jacques), n£ a Anvers en 

1510, mort en . . . 
Hemskekke (Martin), dit le Vieux, 

ne a, Hemskerke en 1498, mort en 

1574. 

Koeck (Pierre d'Alost), ne a Alost 

en 1500, mort en 1553; eleve de 

Van Orley. 
Mostard (Jacques), ne a Harlem en 

1499, mort en 1555. 
Patenieus (Jean), ne a Dinant en 

1480, mort en 1548. 
Schoreel (Jean), ne a Schoreel en 

1495, mort en 1562 ; eleve de Jean 

de Mabuse. 
Swart (Jean), ne a Groeningue en 

1480, mort en 1541. 
Van Conixi,oo (Jean). 



Vandergoes (Hugo), ne a. Bruges en 
1366, mort en 1427 ; eleve de Jean 
Van Eyck. 
Vanderweyde ( Rogier), ne a 
Bruxelles en 1480, mort en 1529. 



Van Hemmisten (Jean), ne a An- 
vers au 16 e siecle. 



Le Christ chez Simon le Pharisien. 

La Vierge et l'enfant Jesus. 
Histoire de la vie de Saint Hubert. 

Le Seigneur succombant sous le poids de la croix. 
Le Christ descendu de la croix. 



Deux tableaux ayant servi autrefois de volets a 
un grand tableau que le Musee ne possede pas. 
La Vierge aux sept douleurs. 

L'adoration des mages. 



L'adoration des mages. 

La Sainte Famille. 

La naissance de Saint Jean-Baptiste. 

Un saint prelat au lit de la mort. 

Les noces de Cana. (Volet.) 

Jesus au milieu des docteurs. (Volet.) 

L'adoration des bergers. 



Le portement de la croix. 
Le Christ en croix. 

Tete de femme en pleurs, coiffee d'une guimbe. 
La Vierge encore enfant est recue par un ange 

sur les marches du temple. 
Jesus parmi les docteurs. 
L'annonciation a la Sainte Vierge. 
La Nativite. 
L'adoration des mages. 
La circoncision. 
Le Christ au tombeau. 

Les disciples et les saintes femmes qui s'eloignent 

du sepulcre. 
La descente de croix. 



214 



APPENDIX. 



No. 



356 

357 
358 

359 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



Van Oort (Lambert), ne a Amers- 
forten 1520, mort en 1547. 

Van Orley (Bernard), ne a 
Bruxelles en 1470, mort en 1548. 



Deposition de la croix. 
Adoration des bergers. 

Jesus- Christ mort au milieu de saints person- 

nages. 
Sainte famille. 



TABLEAUX ANC1ENS 

DONT LES NOMS DES ATJTETJRS SONT 1NCONNTJS. 



360 Le Pere eternel, revetu de la dalma- 

tique et la tete couverte de la tiare, 
tient son fils mort sur ses genoux. 

361 Le massacre des innocents. 

362 Saint Benoit. 

363 Le Seigneur appelant a lui les petits 

enfants. 

364 La circoncision. 

365 La Vierge soutenant l'enfant Jesus 

endormi, attend son reveil pour lui 
offrir une pomme. 

366 Le sacre de Saint Gregoire. 

367 Tableaux a deux volets. 

368 L'adoration des bergers. 

369 L'annonciation de l'ange Gabriel a la 

Vierge Marie. 

370 La Vierge, l'enfant Jesus et Saint 

Bernard. (Figures a mi-corps.) 

371 Deux volets d'un grand tableau tres 

ancien, peints sur un fond dore, repre- 
sentant, l'un, le Christ a, la colonne, et 
l'autre, la resurrection. 

372 Deux volets d'un grand tableau que le 

Musee ne possede pas, representant 
deux religieux entre deux colonnes. 

373 Pendant du tableau precedent. 

374 Celebration de la messe a l'elevation. 

375 La Vierge et l'enfant J£sus. 

376 L'adoration des mages. 

377 La Vierge et l'enfant Jesus. 

378 La Creation d'Eve. 

379 Le sacrifice d' Abraham. 

380 L'adoration des mages. 

381 Noe et sa famille devant l'arche. 

382 La rencontre d'Esaii et de Jacob. 



383 Esau devant son pere. 

384 La Vierge et l'enfant Jesus. 

385 Deux tableaux dans un encadrement. 

386 L'adoration des mages. 

387 Le sacre de Saint Gregoire. 

388 La Vierge dans une gloire entouree de 

symboles de litanies. 

389 Le Christ dans sa gloire. (Ecole de 

Crayer.) 

390 L'adoration des mages. 

391 L'adoration des bergers; efFet de lu- 

miere. 

392 La Sainte Vierge et l'enfant Jesus. 

393 Cavalier. 

394 Tete du Christ. 

395 Tete de la Vierge. 

396 La sainte cene. 

397 L'assomption de la Sainte Vierge. 

398 Tete du Christ. 

399 Portrait d'une femme en priere. 

400 Portrait d'homme. 

401 Portrait de femme. 

402 Portrait d'homme, sous le patronage de 

Saint Jacob. 

403 Portrait de femme, sous le patronage de 

Sainte Catherine. 

404 Deux portraits. 

405 Portrait de Guillaume de Croy, mort a 

Worms, en 1521, fondateur du con- 
vent des Celestins a Heverle, pres de 
Louvain. 

406 Portrait de Jean Barrat. 

407 Portrait de son epouse, Jehenne Cambri. 

408 Portrait d'une jeune dame, tenant un 

ceil let. 



APPENDIX. 



215 



409 Portrait d'un homme habille dans le 

gout du 16 e siecle. 

410 Portrait d'Edouard, roi d'Angleterre. 

411 Portrait. 

412 Portrait d'une dame en costume du 16 e 

siecle. 

413 Portrait en pied d'une dame du 16 e 

siecle. 

414 Portrait d'homme en buste. 



415 Portrait d'une dame en costume du 15 e 

siecle. 

416 Portrait d'Elisabeth, reine d'Angleterre. 

417 Portrait en pied de la princesse Marie 

d'Angleterre, dans sa jeunesse. 

418 Portrait en pied de la reine Marie d'An- 

gleterre, femme de Philippe II., roi 
d'Espagne. 

419 Portrait d'homme, peint en 1551. 



INDICATION DES TABLEAUX COURONNES 

AUX DIVERSES EXPOSITIONS QUI ONT EU LIEU A BRUXELLES, SOUS LES AUSPICES DE 
LA SOCDiTE DES BEAUX-ARTS, FONDEE EN 1811. 



Artist's Name. 



Description. 



216 APPENDIX. 



. No. 


Artist's Name. 


.« 

Description. 





V ANDES A NDE- XjAKHUYZEN ( XxENRI K 


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IjGS vanites du monde. (Tableau allegorujue.) 


o 1 u 


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xiiteiieixi me i cgiioc od.xiiL*«i rtcij ixco cl .niiveio. 


572 


PoURBUS. 


Portrait du magistrat Jacques Vander Gheenste, 






echevin et conseiller de la ville de Bruges en 






1552. 


573 


Sturm (Jacques), a Luxembourg 


L'eau benite. 




en 1805, mort a Rome en 1844. 




574 


Vander Meer (Gerard), ne a 


Ii' Assomption de la Vierge. 




Gand vers 1540. 


575 


Van Dyck. 


Portrait de Dellafaille, bourgmestre d' An vers. 


576 




Portrait de l'auteur, peint par lui-meme. 



THE END. 



London s 
Printed by A. Spottisv"-oo»e, 
Ne\v*Street- Square, 



